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Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again SJX Watches
Louis Erard continues Dec 5, 2025

Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again

Louis Erard continues its prolific run of collaborations with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Worn & Wound, designed with the New York-based publication behind the value-focused Windup Watch Fair. Known for reinterpreting its popular regulator model through limited editions created with independent watchmakers and designers, Louis Erard now turns to a collaborator rooted in accessible watch culture, resulting in a design that blends layered dial architecture with the brand’s familiar 39 mm steel case and reputation for value. Initial thoughts If there’s one brand that has managed to build an identity around collaborations, it’s Louis Erard. Over the past few years the brand has released an astonishing range of limited edition series, usually built around the Le Régulateur platform, designed in collaboration with a diverse mix of watchmakers and designers. Notable releases include collaborations with Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter, but these are just two among many. Louis Erard’s latest is a collaboration with New York-based Worn & Wound, a watch blog with an e-commerce business. Worn & Wound is also the driving force behind Windup Watch Fair, a collector-focused watch fair that takes place in New York, San Fransisco, Dallas, and Chicago each year. Worn & Wound’s primary focus is value-oriented watches, so the collaboration with Louis Erard makes perfect sense. Like most of the brand’s watches, Le Régulateur is a good value, managing to sneak in just u...

A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era Fratello
Montblanc Era It’s October 9th Dec 4, 2025

A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era

It’s October 9th, 2006, and this news flash appears on the Richemont website: “Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods group, is pleased to announce that it has acquired Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva SA in a private transaction from G. P. P. International SA, Luxembourg. The watch brand Minerva was established by Charles Robert in 1858 and is […] Visit A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era to read the full article.

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces? Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 4, 2025

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces?

While it’s all fine and dandy to get into the weeds of watches with the most complications, the most intricate hand-finished details, or precious metal construction, sometimes, you’re just looking for a watch that can take a beating. With that theme in mind, I’ve rounded up some of the most durable watches on the market today that you can wear confidently on your next adventure without fear of your wrist companion wimping out on you. I can’t, obviously, include every single durable watch out there, but down below, I’ve gathered durable watches with a great range of utility, style, and price point to get you started. And away we go… [toc-section heading="G-SHOCK Mudmaster Master of G-Land"] Case: 52.1mm Material: Resin and Steel Water Resistance: 200 meters Movement: Quartz Price: $880 I find it helpful on lists like this to begin with the most obvious. G-SHOCK is always the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about durable watches. I mean, the brand was created entirely with toughness in mind. Several pieces and sub-collections in the G-SHOCK universe would fit the bill, but I’m going to go with its Mudmaster line here. Another one to consider is the GX56BB-1, which has gotten the nickname “The King Of G-SHOCKs” and is shock-resistant from every angle.  Made with mud-resistance and shock-resistance in mind, the Mudmaster Master Of G-Land collection is G-SHOCK’s most tactical line. If you plan on navigating the most extreme of terrains, this i...

Ressence and Legendary Industrial Designer Mark Newson Team Up for the New Type 3 MN Worn & Wound
Ressence Dec 4, 2025

Ressence and Legendary Industrial Designer Mark Newson Team Up for the New Type 3 MN

It’s honestly a little hard to believe that Ressence and Mark Newson hadn’t collaborated until now. The new Type 3 MN, a limited edition version of Ressence’s oil filled watch designed by Newson, feels like a watch that was somehow inevitable. Ressence occupies a very specific niche in independent watchmaking – there is simply no other time telling system quite like the one they have pioneered, and it has a distinctive quality to it that is immediately recognizable. Newson’s design work is similarly well known, and while he’s worked across many industries over many years, watch lovers will quickly identify him as the creator of the Ikepod, a futuristic watch with an aggressively circular design that has influenced a variety of contemporary watches, especially those in the realm of independents. Ressence is chief among them, not necessarily because any particular Ressence looks like an Ikepod (although you can make a case) but because of the deliberate nature of each.  The Type 3 MN is tough to discuss without mentioning Ikepod because the watch really looks like a modern extension of what that brand might have been if Newson had stuck around. The case has a curvy, pebble like quality to it for maximum ergonomics. The hands are lifted right from classic Ikepod designs, and the whole package has an organic quality to it that is a Newson design signature. Both Newson and Ressence founder Benoit Mintiens mention in the press materials for this release that the col...

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches Worn & Wound
Omega Dec 4, 2025

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches

The last, but certainly not least, panel of Windup Watch Fair 2025 features Andi Felsl and David Sharp, CEO and COO of Horage. The two discuss the remarkable story of how Horage’s breakthrough in the world of mechanical regulation. It’s called MicroReg, and Horage believes it is a game-changer. Hear (or read) all about it, including an audience Q&A;, below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello everyone, welcome to the final panel of Wind-Up Watch Fair New York City 2025. This panel is sponsored by Horage, and I’m pleased to be joined by Andi Felsl, CEO of Horage, and David Sharp, COO of Horage. It’s a pleasure to have you both here. We’re going to be talking about Micro-Reg, a fascinating new technology developed by Horage-potentially game-changing in the watchmaking space. Andi, can you start by explaining what Micro-Reg is in layman’s terms, and how the idea came about? Andi Felsl Thank you for having us-it’s a pleasure to be the last panel of the fair. The idea dates back about ten years, when we were preparing for volume manufacturing of our first movement, the K1. At the end of assembly, I realized regulation was going to be a cost issue. Regulation is a costly exercise because it requires precision, and we don’t have the production volume of Rolex or Omega. We needed a different way. I wondered: could we regulate the watch from the outside, while it’s being worn? Regulation has been a big is...

First Look – Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds Monochrome
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

First Look – Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds

Ressence is not what one would call a conventional watchmaker, and let’s hope it never will be. Since its founding in 2010, Benoît Mintiens’ Antwerp-based brand has built its catalogue and reputation by rethinking what a mechanical watch should feel like rather than what it should represent. This time, Ressence reaches out beyond its own […]

Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson SJX Watches
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson

Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...

Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode Fratello
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode

In the eyes of Benoît Mintiens, a Ressence watch should tell the time in the most user-friendly way. That’s why he came up with discs that are more intuitive to read than more conventional hands. Someone who’s also intrigued by simplicity and functionality is industrial designer Marc Newson. Known for his work in the automotive, […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode to read the full article.

In-Depth: Breguet’s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement Dec 4, 2025

In-Depth: Breguet’s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement

Earlier this week, Breguet rounded off its grandiose 250th anniversary with the unexpected launch of the Expérimentale 1 chronometer in Paris. Showcasing modern Breguet’s most impressive innovation to date - a magnetic constant-force escapement - the watch left many scratching their heads simply because the novel invention defies easy explanation. Here we explain the actual functioning of this remarkable invention, and why it represents such a significant step forward in terms of chronometry and escapement technology. The origins of the concept Before turning to the decidedly modern and futuristic Expérimentale 1, we must first take a short trip to the past and consider how the idea of using magnets in mechanical escapements first came to life. For that we must turn to the late 1930s, when Cecil Frank Clifford, Fellow of the British Horological Institute (BHI), started experimenting with oscillators maintained by magnetic rails or escape wheels.  He was granted a British patent in 1954 for a variety of magnetised escape wheels paired with elastic vibrating magnetic blades. The device would operate silently and Clifford envisioned it being used for naval underwater torpedoes, so the lack of ticking would be harder to pick up by sonars.  Iterations of Clifford magnetic escapements. His designs were rudimentary. The principle was that the escape wheel would be braked by a vibrating pair of magnetised blades (in several possible configurations), while simultaneously ...

Opinion: the Venn Diagram of Watches and Knives Worn & Wound
Dec 3, 2025

Opinion: the Venn Diagram of Watches and Knives

Many products we come across today – that were invented and manufactured in the past, were originally born from some sort of pure necessity or primal need. I’m not talking about the heated blankets we watch Netflix under or those electric warming mugs that make sure our coffee is never cold; these are not necessary, but could be considered extremely nice to have by some folks. I’m talking about products and objects that were born from a pure survival need that evolved over time into what we know them as today. This is where we explore watches and pocket knives and come to find out that they have more crossover and shared intrigue than you might know. Let’s rewind back quite a bit from today. Homo sapiens (which is what you and I are-unless you are an AI LLM, in which case I say, these are not the insights you are looking for) needed to eat to survive, as do we. But our ancestors needed to have a tool to kill Woolly Mammoths, because as far as I can tell from my last visit to the Natural History Museum, they definitely didn’t have DoorDash. So in basic terms, to make said tool to kill their food, they used a rock to break another rock that became a sharper object called a Clovis point; and when this sharper rock was tied to a stick, they effectively turned it into a spear that helped them kill those Woolly Mammoths. This became the first sharp tool-and therefore “knife”-that Homo sapiens ever created and used. Now we rewind back a little less far from th...

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO SJX Watches
Voutilainen Dec 3, 2025

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO

A significant transition is underway at Voutilainen as Angélique Singele is appointed chief executive officer of the brand, marking an important step in its long-term succession planning. The announcement follows Dubai Watch Week, where Kari Voutilainen discussed the future of founder-led independent watchmaking and his desire to keep the enterprise - spanning Voutilainen, Comblémine, Brodbeck Guillochage, and Voutilainen & Cattin - firmly independent. With Ms Singele taking over day-to-day leadership, Mr Voutilainen plans to refocus on creation, unique pieces, and client relationships, signalling a new chapter for one of the most influential names in contemporary independent horology. In conversations, Mr Voutilainen sometimes expresses frustrations at his long days filled with administrative and management matters, which leave him less time to deal with the watchmaking he is most passionate about. Initial thoughts The timing of Ms Singele’s appointment makes a lot of sense coming shortly after Dubai Watch Week, where Mr Voutilainen was a panelist, alongside Maximilian Büsser, on the topic of succession for founder-led independent watch brands. During the discussion Mr Voutilainen revealed that this is something he’s thought about since the beginning. “I was already thinking, almost at the beginning of my career, that there are only three ways [it might end]: stop the business, sell the business, or have the family continue it.” The appointment of Ms Singel...

The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived Worn & Wound
Zenith Has Arrived Anyone who Dec 3, 2025

The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived

Anyone who reads this site on a regular basis already knows that I can’t resist a Zenith Defy. I’ve long claimed the Defy collection is the great overlooked sports watch line in watchmaking, offering an unparalleled mix of creativity, robustness, and history that no large brand can compete with. It’s evident throughout the collection, even in the most run of the mill, bare bones Defys that Zenith makes. They are inherently weird when you consider the case shapes, styling, and high frequency movements. It’s no surprise, though, that as you get into the higher tiers of the Defy lineup, things get stranger and cooler, and that’s what we have here today with the new Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions.  We return to the Defy Extreme, the most exotic take on the Defy, for the second time in less than a month. These Chroma executions are admittedly a bit less “extreme” in some ways than the lapis lazuli accented edition we told you about in November, but they’re honestly probably a little better for it. The Chroma concept is not new for Zenith – it allows them to play with color in a very specific way, using a spectrum of bright colors across a very busy dial to great effect. The Defy 21 chronograph received the Chroma treatment last, but now it’s the Extreme’s turn in two limited edition variants: a blacked out titanium as well as a lighter version in titanium and white ceramic.  These watches exist, effectively, as two sides of the same coin, with the ...

Hands-On With The Suprisingly Fresh And Invigorating Benrus Ultra-Deep Fratello
Dec 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Suprisingly Fresh And Invigorating Benrus Ultra-Deep

We’ve all heard that good things come to those who wait. In my case, I had to wait two years before the Benrus Ultra-Deep landed on my desk. That was purely the result of the never-ending stream of new releases that, unfortunately, made me forget about the brand’s retro dive watch. But when the Ultra-Deep […] Visit Hands-On With The Suprisingly Fresh And Invigorating Benrus Ultra-Deep to read the full article.

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2 Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Dec 3, 2025

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2

When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2025

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard

Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin s New Traditionelle Perpetual Dec 2, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Vacheron Constantin has had, by all accounts, a banner year defined by what I think most would categorize as “heavy hitters,” a watch media term of art that implies a certain combination of hype and watchmaking maximalism. January, of course, saw the release of the long awaited and much discussed 222 in steel, and they followed that up in April at Watches & Wonders with the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, which holds the belt, at the moment, for the most complicated wristwatch in the world. There was also a 550 pound clock with an automaton at its center (and 23 complications in total) as well as one of the sportier minute repeaters we’ve seen in a bit. Like I said, lots of big swings this year.  But Vacheron is closing 2025 in a far more understated way, and this latest release is perhaps my favorite thing I’ve seen from the brand this year. It’s certainly among the most approachable watches they’ve debuted, although that’s a relative term and the new Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is very expensive by any metric (they start at an even $100,000). But in terms of what this watch actually represents, it feels like the most classic distillation of what Vacheron is really about.  This is, very simply, a modest, medium sized perpetual calendar is a surprisingly thin and wearable case. Measuring at 36.5mm in diameter and 8.43mm tall, the Traditionelle Perpetual seen here represents the first time this case size has been used for non gem set watche...

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet

The Luminor Marina family by Panerai has long stood for the essence of the brand’s modern identity, a bridge between its storied naval roots and modern tool-watch engineering. Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Florentine brand revitalised the Luminor Marina line with a new generation of steel and titanium models featuring upgraded […]

Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns Monochrome
Baltic Prismic Stone Enters Dec 2, 2025

Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns

Since 2017, the French watch brand Baltic has built its reputation on compact, retro-inspired designs with sharp detailing and accessible pricing. The Prismic collection, launched in 2024, marked a step up in refinement: a 1960s “cocktail watch” take with a complex steel-and-titanium case, crisp Dauphine hands and a slim hand-wound Swiss calibre. Later that year, […]

Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dials to their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dec 2, 2025

Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dials to their Permanent Collection

Baltic’s Prismic line always felt like it existed to capitalize on the stone dial trend. When the watch debuted in early 2024, the French brand’s take on the classic “cocktail watch” seemed like it was pulled from a confluence of all the forces pushing against the vintage inspired sports watch boom that preceded it. The Prismic is a small, aesthetics first, design oriented piece, about as anti tool watch as they come. Those first Prismic releases did not have stone dials, but a later set of limited editions did, and that’s when this watch really clicked into place for many of us. Now, with those LEs long gone, Baltic has introduced a new line of stone dial Prismics that will be part of the permanent collection.  The new Prismic Stone collection arrives to celebrate the opening of Baltic’s first boutique, just as the previous LEs were released to celebrate the opening of showrooms in New York, London, and Paris. The four dial options make use of stones that are not common in watchmaking: Pietersite, Pink Albite, Bloodstone, and Dumortierite. Like all stone dials, each individual piece will be unique. The standout, in my opinion, is the Pietersite dial. This is a truly dynamic stone, and looks like something that could have been ejected from an active volcano just minutes ago. Bloodstone has a dark green hue with inclusions of brown and red, and could be seen as an alternative to the more commonly used malachite. Similarly, Dumortierite has a dark blue tone that...

TAG Heuer and Hiroshi Fujiwara Return with Carrera Fragment SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Dec 2, 2025

TAG Heuer and Hiroshi Fujiwara Return with Carrera Fragment

TAG Heuer has just revealed its third outing with Hiroshi Fujiwara, the Japanese streetwear designer who founded fashion label Fragment Design (and is a vintage watch collector himself). The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment is based on the watchmaker’s signature “Glassbox” chronograph powered by the TH20 movement. While it retains the same case and movement, the Fragment edition bears Mr Fujiwara’s familiar minimalist aesthetic, with the dial having undergone a monochromatic makeover that frees it of both colour and most of its numerals. Initial thoughts The new edition is the best of the three Fragment editions since it combines an excellent base in the form of the Carrera “Glassbox” with Mr Fujiwara’s aesthetic sensibility. I like the “Glassbox” design (though I wish it was slimmer), and equally appreciate the Fragment style, so the two together are an appealing combination. I was a fan of the original Carrera Fragment, though less so of the second instalment, an Autavia that was too chunky and not monochromatic enough. Unlike the first Carrera that had a vintage feel, the new edition is distinctly modern and all the better for it. I think vintage reissues, particularly for chronographs of the vintage Carrera era, are overdone, so the contemporary style is a big plus. At CHF8,150, this is priced close to the standard Carrera “Glassbox”, but definitely a more appealing proposition with the minimalist design. Monochromatic minimalism As with t...

First Look – The New 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ult... Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The New 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin unveils two new versions of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 36.5mm cases, the first to appear without a gem-set case. When it debuted in 2022, the Traditionnelle QP was positioned as a women’s watch, adorned with diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial. It’s incredible to see the impact that market trends can have […]

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance Monochrome
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Dec 1, 2025

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance

As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet closed the year with a grande finale, the Experimental 1 and its innovative magnetic escapement. But there was one more watch as part of the celebratory collection… The Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, a new limited-edition minute repeater rooted in the brand’s heritage while pointing firmly to its […]