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Revolution
As an artist, architect, painter, sculptor and a product designer, Max Bill was one of the principals of the Bauhaus design movement. His collaboration with Junghans in the 1950s has earned him a permanent spot in the brand’s collection ever since.
Time+Tide
Bulgari has become increasingly known for their achievements in chasing down thinness records and contributing to the craze of integrated bracelet sports watches. Introduced in 2012 with its now synonymous round bezel framed by an octagon, the Octo is the brainchild of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, head of watch design at Bulgari. The Octo Roma was … ContinuedThe post Bulgari flexes their mechanical mastery with new Octo Roma models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...
WatchAdvice
What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...
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SJX Watches
Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...
SJX Watches
Launched last year but perhaps overshadowed by mega complication like the Vermeer pocket watch and Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers – Vasco da Gama was the latest in Vacheron Constantin’s long-running series of antiquarian-map watches dedicated to noted historical seafarers. The Vasco da Gama, along with its siblings in the series, exemplify the brand’s tagline for 2021 – “Classic with a Twist” – with a case that evokes 1980s design but an enamelled dial and time display that are both quirky and interesting. The Vasco da Gama is one third of the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers collection. The other two watches that make up the rest of the line up are naturally dedicated to “Great Explorers”, namely Bartolomeu Dias and Pedro Alvarez Cabral, fellow Portuguese sailors who were contemporaries of da Gama. They are each mechanically identical to the Vasco da Gama and differ only in terms of the dial motif. Each of the dials depict the journey of the respective explorer who were professional seamen who charted the world during the Age of Discovery, the period between the 15th and 18th centuries that saw the rise of European empires as their ships roamed the world. The watch outlines the first voyage of da Gama, the first European to reach India by sea. In 1497, he led his fleet of four ships on the two-year journey, setting sail south Lisbon, then around the Cape of Good Hope, and onto to Cali...
Deployant
The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.
SJX Watches
A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...
Time+Tide
Watches with real military heritage carry a special allure to them – something that has been recognised both by enthusiasts and collectors. There’s a reassuring authenticity about a tool watch designed for a specific purpose (look at the Marine Nationale’s input into the design of the Tudor FXD, for example), or a watch built to … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
Overall, the Harry Winston Z14 fares well in design and complication. Its approach shows that it understands the modern affluent buyer, with the current trend of sports luxury timepieces. The openworked design is well executed and the retrograde display cleverly shows the snail cam in action for dial side animation. The watch is limited to 300 pieces and has a retail price of US$26,400.
Time+Tide
Every watch brand has their range through which they get to brag. Finishing, design and movements are all aspects where a watchmaker can shine, and Longines choose to represent their best with the Master Collection - a range of classically styled wristwatches that emulate some of their complicated timepieces from the infancy of the brand, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Elegance meets complication in the Longines Master Collection moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot has a reputation that it upholds firmly. It’s one of masculinity, industrial design, and a sporty capability reinforced by adorning the wrists of celebrity athletes. While this reputation has been integral to their personality since their rise in the 1980s, this love-it-or-hate-it image has caused a massive divide amongst watch fans. Even their Millennial … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.
Hodinkee
An enduring classic of watch design meets a classic complication.
Video
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is fast becoming one of the favorites for the ideal integrated steel sports watch, and it’s easy to see why. We explore the history of this iconic design, from the historic reference 222 all the way to this incredible Overseas 4500V with a beautiful blue dial.
Revolution
A limited edition watch showcasing Ressence’s technical ingenuity blended with a multi-faceted dial design playing on light and Arabian geometric patterns
Time+Tide
There’s very little mystery left with Grand Seiko’s design strategy, especially with their Heritage collection. Often taking direct inspiration from natural scenes that surround the famous Studio Shizukuishi, the Grand Seiko artisans manifest the beauty of the world around them into dials that breathe life into the watch. For most of us who can’t even … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...
Revolution
In its short, decade long life Tudor’s defining dive watch, the Black Bay has been on a wild ride. We look at the historic origins of Tudor’s diver and discover how this design lineage has been incorporated into the modern-day Tudor Black Bay
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Time+Tide
We all have a watch brand that we love. A brand that brings something to the table we can’t ignore. Whether it be their finishing or their language of design, we’re captivated by what they’re able to create. For me, that brand has always been Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve marvelled at their movements and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.
Quill & Pad
Daniel Roth lives on in Bulgari in the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon, an incredible watch showcasing the results of creative combinations in both business and design. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
Time+Tide
Nomos are known for their distinctive Bauhaus designs that are immediately distinguishable from across a crowded room. When the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 made its way into my feed, however, I immediately clocked its new bracelet and was confounded by what I saw (in a good way). Nomos, with their new bracelet design, has … ContinuedThe post Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. To be fair, nature as a form of inspiration for design is hardly tied to one individual entity. But within the watch world, when you think of nature-inspired dials, the mind immediately wanders to Grand Seiko. It is a winning formula for the Japanese manufacture, and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The ice-inspired Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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