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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Sinn May 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000

We’ve been inundated with incredible dive watches in recent years, at a wide range of price points, but particularly under $5,000, where dive watches belong. There are three examples in particular that represent this trend, and all three have remained standard bearers in the subsequent short years since releasing. Each of these watches reveal something important about Tudor, Sinn, and Seiko, in that even when it comes to straight forward tool watches, they can still surprise us in the best of ways. We’ve written plenty about these three watches since their releases, and today we’re looking at how they’ve come to form the core of my own dive watch rotation. Recent trends point to something of an unraveling of the typical genre labels, as well as an embrace for watches that lean toward the formal end of that equation, at minimum alongside the more tool-ish watches that have enjoyed the spotlight in the recent past. However, there’s something comforting about a classic diver, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, that always keeps people like me coming back. These are the kinds of watches that I end up reaching for more than any other on the day to day, as practical (and handsome) companions for my lifestyle. These are the watches that seem to transcend style trends that shift from era to era in the most blunt of manners.  In this video, I walk through each of these watches and why they’ve remained in my own watchbox since their release, and how well they’ve sto...

Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? Time+Tide
May 18, 2023

Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them?

Watch flipping. The practice, depending on which side of the coin you are on, poses one of the biggest problems or opportunities within the watch space today. With watches increasingly being looked at as an investment opportunity, and financial figures such as Kevin O’Leary endorsing the notion that investing in watches is better than investing … ContinuedThe post Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa” Worn & Wound
Citizen Enters May 18, 2023

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa”

Five years ago, if someone were to ask me for advice on an affordable, reliable, all-purpose watch with some enthusiast/collector credibility, I’d definitely have Seiko on the tip of my tongue, and probably Timex and G-Shock as well. A brand that I might not have been as quick to mention would be Citizen, which is perhaps a bit ironic for me personally, because a Citizen is literally the first watch I can remember picking out for myself, years and years before this would become a hobby, let alone a profession. But something is happening at Citizen that is truly compelling. They’ve always had an expansive catalog, but recently they’ve been able to zero in on the stuff that really makes them special. Affordable, tactical divers are one avenue where they’ve had some success, and I’d argue they currently have a slight edge on Seiko in that department, overall. And with the recent release of the NJ015 “Tsuyosa” collection (the word means “strength” in Japanese) Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option. Coming in at less than $500, these seem destined to appear on “recommended” lists. What we have here are straightforward, time and date automatic watches in stainless steel cases with integrated bracelets. The design is vaguely vintage inspired, but this type of watch is so common right now, it feels completely contemporary. The obvious point of comparison is Ti...

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 May 18, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 tames the beastly watch into a friendlier package. The case has been refined for comfort and accessibility. Its dial has also been simplified for a calmer appearance with no loss of spirit. The Hamilton brand has a long-standing history in supplying both militaries and Hollywood with task-specific watches, and … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman 41 is more compact but just as functional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical – Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.

The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold Time+Tide
May 18, 2023

The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold

If you slavishly follow modern trends, you might believe that current standards dictate that a watch should be between 38-42mm wide, offer some form of vintage design cue and try and remain as symmetrical as possible. Refreshingly, LIV do something far bolder. Founded in 2014 by husband and wife Chaz and Esti Chazanow, the microbrand … ContinuedThe post The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak One May 17, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic

Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer SJX Watches
Frederique Constant or Montblanc May 17, 2023

Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer

Omega expands the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer collection with one in steel and an all-new model in titanium. Dressed in restrained colours of greys or greens with gilded accents, the new pair combines modern styling with a traditional, Cottier-style world time. Initial thoughts Though superficially similar to earlier versions of the Aqua Terra travel watch, a close examination reveals notable differences between the new models and their predecessors.  The titanium model is executed in shades of grey and black, save for a gilded, relief world map, giving it a striking appearance that elevates the world time concept. In contrast, the map motif feels more integrated into the design on the steel models, allowing the map to recede into the background resulting in a more low-key appearance..  The new models are priced slightly higher than their predecessors, with the steel on strap starting at US$10,200 and about 10% more for the titanium. Compared against the competition, the Aqua Terra Worldtimer is one of the few world time watches at that price point – most are either pricer or less expensive – and its quality certainly justifies its price premium over comparable watches from Frederique Constant or Montblanc for instance. Eye-catching colourways Omega’s latest Aqua Terra Worldtimers continue the brand’s sporty reinterpretation of the classic complication invented by Louis Cottier. The dial features a relief map of the Earth as seen from the North Pole, ringed b...

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels Time+Tide
Omega revisits May 16, 2023

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels

Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited!

The Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki” will be the last Calendrier I produced As an Anniversary model the watch is not a limited edition, it is time limited with all successful orders honoured The first Kurono dial to be made of phosphor-bronze, the case’s water-resistance is raised to 50m Cards on the table, I have … ContinuedThe post New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection Worn & Wound
May 16, 2023

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection

Introducing the Hawaii based Imperial Watch Co. Royalguard 200, initially unveiled in October 2022. And when we say “unveiled,” we mean it was an instant sell-out hit, with every piece snatched up before it even had a chance to grace the hypothetical shelves. So it’s no surprise that Imperial is back, this time offering more of what made the Royalguard a fast success. The Royalguard’s reissue is now available in three limited edition colorways, featuring both date and no-date options. Imperial has also revived the original blue bezel variant, presenting it in a limited run of just 30 pieces with a date function. While the watch itself remains largely unchanged from its previous iteration, the new colorways add some variety, presenting new options to collectors who may have missed out on the Royalguard’s first release. Let’s dive into the new colors (pun always intended). First up is the Tropical, which captures the rusty brown and red tones reminiscent of a well-aged tropical bezel. Then we have the Ghosted Green, a soft, muted shade of green that changes from light green to a deep emerald depending on the light.  And of course, there’s the Classic Black, which exudes a vintage, almost gray faded aesthetic. The original blue bezel variant follows this same trend, with its muted, faded, and aged appearance. The Royalguard draws considerable inspiration from the iconic Eberhard Scafograf 200, notably in its glossy black dial that dances with the light. The ove...

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver pays tribute to the legendary life of Brian Shul. The dial features an SR-71 Blackbird, which Shul flew towards the end of his career. Three colour options across two case sizes offer versatile options. There are all kinds of watches that have stories, whether it’s a famous piece … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT Sled Driver honours a legendary pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The heroes and bargains of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction Time+Tide
May 15, 2023

The heroes and bargains of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction

Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction, it’s always interesting to go through and assess the accuracy of the lot estimates. Most of the time they cast a pretty wide net, so it’s hard to miss, but bidders seeing that top number will always give them something to reach for. Let’s dive in … ContinuedThe post The heroes and bargains of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement Worn & Wound
May 15, 2023

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement

New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone.  But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...

The Ralph Lauren American Western is fit for the Wild West Time+Tide
May 15, 2023

The Ralph Lauren American Western is fit for the Wild West

Escapism is the source for a lot of humanity’s great works, whether it’s the novels of Jules Verne or the post-impressionist paintings of Van Gogh. For the legendary fashion designer Ralph Lauren, it was the John Wayne and Gary Cooper led Hollywood Westerns of the 1940s and ‘50s. When his company reached its 50th anniversary … ContinuedThe post The Ralph Lauren American Western is fit for the Wild West appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months Time+Tide
May 15, 2023

My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months

Shining a light on some lesser-known brands is one of my favourite things to do here at Time+Tide, and the weekly Micro Mondays segment helps to keep me informed on new and exciting releases just as much as it does for you. With the onslaught of Kickstarter releases piling in, it’s becoming harder and harder … ContinuedThe post My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? Time+Tide
Rolex novelties hit May 14, 2023

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit?

No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso May 14, 2023

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it…

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin finds use for recycled aluminium and coffee grounds from Nespresso capsules. You can even see flecks of coffee running throughout the rubber strap. The Hublot Greenbox is also being introduced, which will house all Hublot’s future collections. Recycled materials have been appearing more and more in Swiss luxury … ContinuedThe post Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zach’s visit to the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen reveals the importance of ‘IWC-manufactured’ Time+Tide
IWC manufacture May 13, 2023

Zach’s visit to the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen reveals the importance of ‘IWC-manufactured’

More often than not, when we engage with watches it is typically in a retail shop, watch fair or watch meetup. But the exhibition caseback of any watch brand is a visit to their manufacture. Visiting a manufacture is truly a window into the brand, and not just in the behind-the-scenes sense of seeing the … ContinuedThe post Zach’s visit to the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen reveals the importance of ‘IWC-manufactured’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Humble Second: We Can Now Measure It To Incredible Precision, It’s Continually Fluctuating, It’s Getting Longer, And It’s Stuck In 1957. All Because Of The Moon – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 13, 2023

The Humble Second: We Can Now Measure It To Incredible Precision, It’s Continually Fluctuating, It’s Getting Longer, And It’s Stuck In 1957. All Because Of The Moon – Reprise

There are two ways to define a day: astronomically by measuring the time between midday to midday and by using a manmade clock. The difference between them is that the length of the former fluctuates while the latter remains fixed. As Ian Skellern explains, the same is true for the humble second.

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut May 13, 2023

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race

Why do watch fans love a good historical reissue? I can think of two reasons. First off, horological history has such a deep trove of interesting, important references to draw from, with a ton of classic models and innovative designs waiting to be discovered by new generations of fans. Secondly, they’re cool as hell, and … ContinuedThe post The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials Worn & Wound
May 12, 2023

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials

We first wrote about Awake last year, when they launched the very high concept Mission to Earth, a blockchain enabled, NASA co-branded watch that really sought to tell a very specific story about space exploration. I was a fan of that watch, mostly for the way it unapologetically leaned in to those larger themes, becoming what I suspect is a watch that was more sought after by NASA collector types than traditional watch enthusiasts. Their latest watch, dubbed “Time Travelers,” but also part of the Mission to Earth series has a similar point of view but a very different aesthetic, and in some ways feels a bit more coherent in how it gets its very specific message across.  Time Travelers is all about exploring the origins of our solar system through meteorites, the small asteroid fragments that are older than our planet and continue to teach us quite a bit about the nature of how planets and life were formed. Unsurprisingly, the centerpiece of this watch is its meteorite dial, crafted from a sliver of the Muonionalusta meteorite that struck the surface of our planet over one million years ago. The unique striations seen on a meteorite dial can’t be reproduced naturally on earth, and in addition to adding an element of poetry to an object whose primary concern is the passage of time, they also just look incredibly cool, and have a visual impact that is a lot fun. The case of the Time Travelers watch is crafted from recycled titanium, and will be available in two colors...

King Charles’ killer eye for style also extends to his watches Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

King Charles’ killer eye for style also extends to his watches

Many moons ago, I was getting a made-to-measure suit from a tailor in Sydney called Patrick Johnson, who was just launching his business that’s since become very successful.  Patrick has since moved premises multiple times, but in that early fitting room, one entire wall was devoted to framed photographs of Prince Charles or, as it … ContinuedThe post King Charles’ killer eye for style also extends to his watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are

In modern times, the words “stealth wealth” get thrown around a lot. Usually reserved for sophisticated watches often made of white metals like platinum, the idea is that your watch only hints at its true value. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, there are those cheap watches that do everything they can to … ContinuedThe post You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches

I get it, it’s the end of the week and you are probably rushing off to the pub to down a pint or slump on the couch to binge the latest Netflix series. But, before you wind down, here are three watch world highlights you may have missed. Massena HOUSE to be a new hub … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 Time+Tide
Tudor stole May 11, 2023

Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023

At Tudor’s booth this year, the theme was evolution not revolution. While the titanium Pelagos 39 intensely stirred the best-modern-luxury-dive-watch pot, the brand’s main Watches & Wonders focus was the Black Bay range. Watch Andrew’s and Zach’s live reactions to the new releases below, and read on for a quick summary of each. Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds Time+Tide
May 11, 2023

Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds

Do you want to look at pictures of sliced bread stapled to a tree? Are you intrigued by the inner monologue of shoplifters? Keen to discuss the advantages of carrying around sand in your pockets? Luckily, Reddit has got you covered. Built to be “the front page of the internet”, as you’re probably aware, Reddit … ContinuedThe post Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych Time+Tide
Swatch May 10, 2023

Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych

The Swatch x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection marks the final collaboration of the Art Journey project Previous collaborations were with MoMA, Magritte, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi The triptych includes three quartz-driven pieces inspired by Basquiat’s ‘Ishtar’, ‘Untitled’, and ‘Hollywood Africans’ artworks Swatch as a brand, not the conglomerate group, is widely credited … ContinuedThe post Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.