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Christiaan van der Klaauw Gallery Christiaan van der Klaauw

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Christiaan van der Klaauw thread.

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer SJX Watches
Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Sep 23, 2024

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer

Seiko adds travel time functionality to its line of affordable dress watches with the Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447. The new Presage is part of the Craftsmanship series that sports dials decorated with traditional Japan artisanal crafts ranging from lacquer to porcelain to enamel, and features glossy urushi lacquer dial to go along with the GMT function.  A key part of Japanese culture for millennia, urushi is obtained from the lacquer tree and used for a variety of applications, ranging from kitchenware to samurai armour. Here it is applied to the dial by hand at the workshop of urushi specialist Isshu Tamura, which was also responsible for lacquer dials on past Presage models. Initial thoughts The new GMT offers a similar value proposition as past Presage Craftsmanship models: the dial is decorated by skilled artisans, a feature typically associated with more expensive watches, but the price tag remains an affordable US$1,750. And it has the added bonus of a GMT, giving it an added dimension of utility compared to most Craftsmanship models that either have calendar or power reserve functions. The only downside is the fact that it’s not a “true” GMT with an independently adjustable hour hand, but that is the case for practically all GMT watches in this price range, so it doesn’t put the Presage GMT at a disadvantage relative to the competition. Urushi dial The Presage GMT sports a dial finished in black urushi, with the gilt markings on the dial done in...

Worn & Wound Joins Alpina, Bulova, Accutron, and Frederique Constant for a Night Out in Nashville Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Sep 21, 2024

Worn & Wound Joins Alpina, Bulova, Accutron, and Frederique Constant for a Night Out in Nashville

Hey Worn & Wound readers, if you’re in the Nashville, Tennessee area on September 26th, join us for a fun meetup with our friends at Alpina, Bulova, Accutron, and Frederique Constant. We’ll have a troop of Worn & Wound team members there and we thought it would be a great time to do a meetup! Nothing fancy, just some friendly people, cold drinks, and of course, whatever watch is on your wrist. RSVP here for more information Our awesome partners will bring some amazing timepieces for everyone to enjoy and even purchase. Check out Bulova’s newest edition of the Lunar Pilot in a bold red colorway, as well as the latest versions of the Surveyor, Jet Star, and Super Seville with Bulova’s state-of-the-art Precisionist movement. Examine Accutron’s electrostatic movement for yourself. Check out a full complement of Alpiner Extremes. And don’t forget Frederique Constant’s latest novelties. So if you’re a longtime reader, found the site today or just love watches, this will be a fun time. Again, the meetup will happen at Tennessee Brew Works on Thursday, September 26th from 6:30-8:30PM.  Space is limited, so if you want to join us, please RSVP here for more information. The post Worn & Wound Joins Alpina, Bulova, Accutron, and Frederique Constant for a Night Out in Nashville appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2024

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024

When we created the Windup Watch Fair nearly ten years ago, we did it for a simple purpose: to make the watch fair that we actually wanted to go to. We wanted a fair with the brands we were into and a comfortable environment-a fair that spoke to our values as a company and as watch enthusiasts. Inclusive, inviting, laid back, free, and, most importantly, fun. Naturally, we underestimated how big of a lift it would be to pull off, but we persisted, succeeded, and never looked back. The Windup Watch Fair, now held annually in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York City, has become the pre-eminent watch fair for enthusiasts. It is a fair where brands large and small, indie and group, accessible and luxury, come together to speak directly with you, the watch enthusiasts. New brands break ground, new products launch, and new friends are made. There’s genuinely nothing else like it. The original 2015 Windup Watch Fair Today, we’re excited to announce this year’s Windup Watch Fair New York City, which will set a new standard like our first fair ten years ago. With over 120 brands in attendance and 16 countries represented, Windup NYC, our flagship event, is now a watch fair on an international scale. From October 18th to the 20th, the center of the watch world will be in New York City, and you and all of your friends are invited to come. We look forward to seeing you there. This year, the event will be taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (...

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials Worn & Wound
Baltic Celebrates Sep 16, 2024

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials

New today from Baltic, a trio of limited edition versions of their Prismic “cocktail watch,” each with a colorful stone dial. The watches have been announced to celebrate Baltic’s new showrooms, one exotic dial for each. The Paris showroom is tied to the lapis lazuli dial, London to red agate, and New York gets green jade (as seen in the included photos). Stone dials are clearly having a moment, with approachable and affordable stone dial editions being released by many of our favorite brands over the course of the last year or so. Once considered extremely niche (and to be fair, it’s probably still pretty niche) stone dials are now seen as a way to have something genuinely unique on the wrist, as no two dials will be exactly the same. They’re also a natural fit for the Prismic collection, which is already set apart as something a little off the beaten track from Baltic’s heritage inspired sports watches.  As is the case with most stone dials, the texture and color of each stone takes center stage with these pieces. Each watch features simple applied hour markers and brushed dauphine hands, with Baltic’s wordmark near the 12:00 position and a small seconds register at 6:00. The case is the same five part design seen on the initial Prismic releases. It measures 36mm in diameter and is composed of both stainless steel (the bezel, lugs, and caseback) and titanium (the midcase, which has a contrasting “grain” finish). The original concept of the Prismic, a t...

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More Fratello
Zenith Ebel Rolex Sep 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As most of you know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was part of the illustrious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the consortium of brands formed […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 12, 2024

Omega Seamaster: The Comprehensive Guide

The Omega Seamaster is not only a modern icon among divers’ watches; it’s also the cornerstone of one of the Swiss brand’s most prominent and versatile collections: today’s connoisseur can choose between robust, sporty utility (the Seamaster Diver 300M), nautical-inspired elegance (the Aqua Terra), and understated vintage flair (the Heritage models like the Seamaster 1948), as well as an array of colorways and case materials ranging from steel to titanium to high-tech ceramics and proprietary gold alloys. Nowadays, it can be difficult to believe that such a diverse collection with such a dominant presence traces its roots back to just two groundbreaking models: a post-war gents’ watch from 1948 and its descendant, built for recreational divers, in 1957. MILITARY STYLE Introduced in 1948, the 100th anniversary of the founding of the firm that became Omega, the Seamaster was perhaps always destined to become a mainstay of the Omega portfolio. The watch, however, bore little resemblance to the one we’re familiar with today, the model worn on the screen by James Bond. The “dive watch,” as we know it in the modern sense, didn’t really exist, and the original Seamaster was instead positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the wartime watches it produced for Britis...

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More Fratello
Frederique Constant Sep 12, 2024

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More

The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and über-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs. […] Visit Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More to read the full article.

Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy Monochrome
Sep 11, 2024

Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy

ArtyA was founded by Yvan Arpa in 2010, making a name for itself with avant-garde models often incorporating unconventional materials like bullets or butterfly wings. However, over time, ArtyA has matured to produce more restrained and elegant skeletonised movements, often housed in transparent sapphire crystal cases and featured in the brand’s Purity collection. For Geneva […]

Hands-On With The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone - Finally, Someone Who Takes The Date Window Seriously Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Sep 9, 2024

Hands-On With The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone - Finally, Someone Who Takes The Date Window Seriously

If one thing is true about Laurent Ferrier’s watches, it’s that his designs are boldly understated. The watches don’t try to impress anyone with skeletonized dials, and the case shapes are nothing out of the ordinary. These aren’t watches you wear because you want to impress people from a distance. With timepieces like these, it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone - Finally, Someone Who Takes The Date Window Seriously to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More

The time has come to wrap up our Best Watches Under €10K series, and I have the privilege of closing out this latest run. Doubling the budget from €5K unlocks a wealth of possibilities, and today, I’ll be looking to exploit those, even if it does call for a bit of finessing. Still, while I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton would have Sep 6, 2024

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal

The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...

Top Watches for Students and Grads Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...

It’s An Exquisite Millésime Monday Morning With The New HYT T1 Millésime Series Fratello
HYT Sep 2, 2024

It’s An Exquisite Millésime Monday Morning With The New HYT T1 Millésime Series

The French word millésime means “vintage” and is most often linked to great wines and champagnes. The new HYT T1 Millésime series offers a vintage-inspired dial matching the contemporary look of HYT’s most understated creation. And just like a millésime wine, the new trio of watches refers to a limited period. The HYT T1 Millésime […] Visit It’s An Exquisite Millésime Monday Morning With The New HYT T1 Millésime Series to read the full article.

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGA025 Sep 2, 2024

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347

Don’t you love how the designers at Grand Seiko keep using Japanese natural phenomena and settings as inspiration? Of course, I’m not a fan of all Grand Seiko watches, but I enjoy reading through the press releases and looking up the places and things from which the dial colors and textures are derived. It’s like […] Visit Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Recapping the Worn & Wound Meetup Celebrating the Launch of the Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Aug 29, 2024

[VIDEO] Recapping the Worn & Wound Meetup Celebrating the Launch of the Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition

Worn & Wound was honored to be chosen by Tissot to be the launch party partner for the global release of their latest fun and unique special edition! Scores of Worn & Wound readers and watch enthusiasts gathered at Tissot’s 5th Ave boutique in NYC to celebrate two worlds converge to create something extraordinary, a collaboration that bridges generations, celebrates legacy, and embraces the spirit of creativity and innovation. It was our pleasure to introduce-the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition. Please enjoy this video capturing this epic affair! In the late 1970s, the world witnessed the rise of two legends. On one hand, we had the Tissot PRX, a watch that quickly became a symbol of Swiss precision and timeless design. On the other, we had UFO Robot Grendizer, a heroic figure from the vibrant universe of manga and anime, capturing the imagination of audiences across the globe. Both were icons of their era, and today, they are reborn in a collaboration that not only honors their past but also invites a new generation to discover their enduring appeal.   This special edition watch is more than just a timepiece; it’s a fusion of Swiss craftsmanship and Japanese pop culture. It combines 70s design with modern technology, featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, a vibrant blue dial inspired by Grendizer, and a yellow Super-LumiNova® bust of the robot hero. Every detail, from the Harken-style second hand to the engraved rotor, nods to the iconic anime, blending no...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g Team Up, Reveling the Passion Fruit Watches Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Aug 29, 2024

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g Team Up, Reveling the Passion Fruit Watches

Collaborations in the watch industry have become all the rage, bringing diverse brands and creative minds together. While most collabs typically result in a single watch that blends the DNA of two brands, high-end independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie and micro-brand Studio Underd0g join forces for a fun and unexpected collab dubbed “it’s about […]

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days

The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities.  The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.”  This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop.  In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Citizen s Affordable Series 8 Aug 27, 2024

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl

Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver Worn & Wound
Aug 26, 2024

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver

“Sold Out,” the words marking what was previously an “add to cart” button, reminding me that I missed out on the original drop. Just a few months ago, a small unassuming brand just 4 hours south of me in Cincinnati, Ohio teased a few images of an eye-catching dive-style watch sporting the tongue-in-cheek dial text of “0 ft = 0m, No Submersion, Superlative Desk Diver, Unofficially Certified”. While it is true that a lot of brands release watches on the more playful side of things, it is rare that the actual watch appears well executed throughout but instead leans into the whimsical, forgetting about tradition and practicality. So as further details and images were revealed of the 75-piece limited edition, it began to paint a picture of a well-made everyday watch utilizing new old stock Swiss-made cases poking fun at the seriousness plaguing the watch community. I loaded up the website, then swung and missed. So, when I learned that a non limited Desk Diver was in production with an upcoming release, I jumped at the opportunity to get the model on my wrist and give it a proper go.  Being that the original was limited simply due to the number of cases found after 50 years of hiding, Cincinnati Watch Co. set out to recreate a faithful case design made to a modern specification. The vintage-inspired cushion case measures a stout 43.3 mm in diameter. Despite its large measurements on paper, the Desk Diver Professional makes use of its clever geometry to disappear on...

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero Aug 26, 2024

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips

A watch known to insiders but largely unknown, the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” came long before the modern-day version that arrived at Baselworld 2012. It was a ref. 16599 equipped with the cal. 4030 based on the Zenith El Primero that was produced sometime in the 1990s. Now the one-off “Zenith Rainbow” is going under the hammer at Phillips come November when the auction house stages Reloaded, a thematic sale dedicated to watches made between 1980 and 1999. Having been owned by a well-known collector for several years – the same gentleman sold another record-setting Rolex at Phillips several years ago – this ref. 16599 has a bezel set with sapphires in a rainbow graduated due, along with a diamond pave dial with blue sapphire hour markers. I happened to meet the prior owner of this watch and he related the story of how he came to possess the watch. Knowing that backstory, the lavish stone setting and almost-bespoke nature of the watch certainly makes sense. Today’s Rainbow in Everose, the descendent of the ref. 16599 Estimated at over CHF3 million, the Daytona “Rainbow” will be sold on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President during Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. The auction catalogue will be available closer to the date of sale.  

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours to the Seventies Chronograph SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours Aug 19, 2024

Glashütte Original Adds Bright Colours to the Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original (GO) drops two new variations of the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, with dials in striking colours: “Swimming Pool” turquoise or “Watermelon” coral red. Featuring a cushion-shaped case modelled on the 1970s watches made by GO’s East German predecessor, the Seventies Chronograph is equipped with the in-house cal. 37-02, a high-spec calibre decorated in the brand’s recognisable, German-inspired style. Initial thoughts Having debuted a decade ago, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date been iterated in several colours, including ochre, grey-blue, grey, and green. Despite the excellent movement, especially in this price range, the Seventies Chronograph hasn’t really gained much traction, perhaps because of the chunky proportions and retro style – which is quite contradictory since current tastes lean towards vintage-inspired watches with comparable vintage-style size. Priced at US$16,000, the Seventies Chronograph is priced well, particularly considering the in-house movement. The Seventies Chronograph is proof that does GO does movements well, though its designs might not be for everyone. GUB styling The TV-screen case is inspired by 1970s watches made by VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, or GUB for short, the state-owned watchmaking enterprise of East Germany. GUB was later privatised and evolved into today’s GO. While the East German originals were no frills, the Seventies Chronograph has quality of make. Water resistant to 100m, th...

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand! Worn & Wound
Citizen Lōcī Aug 17, 2024

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand!

Hey Southern California, here we come. Any of you long time Worn & Wound readers will know that The James Brand is a company that’s been near and dear to our hearts for quite some time. They’re known for crafting some of the best everyday tools for modern explorers including utility knives and tools made with premium materials. We’re excited to share that The James Brand has opened a new location in Oceanside, CA! This space features a public retail area that showcases their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products. Join us in celebrating this occasion with an all-day West Coast Summer Pop-up and experience our unique offerings firsthand. The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-up hosted by The James Brand Saturday, August 17, 2024 12PM – 6PM Pacific The James Brand HQ 425 S Coast Hwy Oceanside, CA 92054 Free and open to the public. In addition to The James Brand and the Windup Watch Shop, several of our favorite watch brands will be there too, including Artefkt, Belmont Watch Co., Brew Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac, showcasing their latest and greatest releases available for viewing and purchase. This includes the very last 10 units of TJB’s latest collaboration with Timex: the Limited Edition Automatic GMT in Titanium. On behalf of The James Brand and our other brand partners joining us for this pop-up, we can’t wait to see you all, grab a drink, check out some cool gear, and talk watches. Since this event is free and open to the public, no R...

Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution Two Broke Watch Snobs
Stowa Aug 15, 2024

Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution

In a move that amplifies its modern interpretation of classic pilot's watches, Stowa has introduced the Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited, a watch that builds on the design DNA of the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono. This time, the watch has been given a stealthy makeover with a matte black DLC-coated case that stays true to the brand's ethos, while adding a layer of sophistication that will undoubtedly appeal to collectors. But when Stowa says "limited" here, they really mean it. There are only 10 of these! Sheesh.

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12 SJX Watches
Sinn EZM 12 “Tool” watches Aug 8, 2024

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12

“Tool” watches form a substantial part of watchmakers’ offerings today, at practically every point of the price spectrum. But true tool watches built for – and actually used by – professionals are rare. That’s partly due to the fact that inexpensive electronic watches do just as good a job. But Sinn continues to offer unusual timekeepers conceived specifically for professionals, ranging from pilots to firefighters, including the EZM 12 designed for emergency medical workers. Dr Martin Leitl with the EZM 12 Einsatzzeitmesser Historically a brand focused on tool watches, many watches in Sinn’s catalogue are no-frills timepieces with maximum functionality and legibility. Arguably the pinnacle of its tool watch line-up is the EZM series, short for Einsatzzeitmesser, which translates as “mission timer”. A “mission timer”, generally speaking, is an instrument for time measurement in a professional capacity, often one used for military applications, timekeeping on scientific expeditions, or even automobile races and rallies. The watches that make up the EZM series are largely designed for the needs of professionals in various fields, often conceived with the input of users in the field. The EZM 1 The watch that started the series was the EZM 1 with its distinctive left-handed case orientation. Introduced in 1997, the first “mission timer” was developed for the Zentrale Unterstützungsgruppe Zoll (ZUZ), the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs aut...