1,066 articles · 43 videos found · page 34 of 37
Deployant
Following up on last Friday’s remarks using DeBethune’s remarkable DB25T as an example, today’s post I use the same combination on the Voutilainen Vingt8 (28). Also photographed in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Vingt-8 before. As I described earlier, this is a magnificent watch. As mentioned inRead More
Deployant
with apologies to Mussorgsky On the occassion of Lange bringing the entire Pour le Merite collection to Singapore and doing an exhibition of the watches at L’Atelier by The Hour Glass at ION Orchard, I also launched my book…as most of you regular readers would know by now. I also took the opportunity to doRead More
Deployant
The Urwerk White Shark…limited Edition in 12 pieces, especially for The Hour Glass and Chronopassion. A closer look at the time indication mechanism. The red numeral is also the limited edition number…12 examples, so allows each watch to be individualised with its limited edition number in red on the hour indicator. Nice touch. A closerRead More
Hodinkee
What We Know Why am I, the tallest editor in Hodinkee history, so weirdly excited about the smallest Oris release in recent memory? It's questions like this that don't have easy answers, but we've landed here all the same, with all 6'7" of me slightly giddy at the release of a new Big Crown Pointer Date in a 29mm case. Okay, more than slightly. I love a good pointer date, but I never considered that the smaller-wristed among us (some of them maybe ladies) would be well served by a tiny little version of Oris' long-running icon. Well, I'm glad Oris decided to make it happen. With a stainless steel case measuring 29mm by 11.4mm and a miniature 35.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch's proportions look so wildly normal that you could be fooled into thinking it is like any other previously released version. Which is a good thing. Nothing wonky or distorted, just the fluted bezel and big crown (now tapered for comfort and to be more ornate), with a slightly more daintily printed dial with a mix of printed numerals and dots (to keep from overloading a small dial with print), reworked hands (without the contrast date pointer), and dials with a mix of central sunburst and outer grained finishing. The watches come with a black dial and silver hands, or a pinky rose-toned dial and orangey-rose hands. Inside the case is an Oris 534 movement, with a 25.6mm diameter and automatic winding, beating at 4Hz and with a 42-hour power reserve. Yes, the power reserve is a bit—well—reserved, but it's ...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watchmaking, it’s usually a marathon not a sprint. Bringing a model to life is a lesson in patience, and, well, timing. A tale we often hear about how a watch came to be starts with a chance meeting, some curiosity or perhaps even instant synergy, and then intention and hard work. This echoes the origin story of the new Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, the brainchild of William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, along with Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the co-founders of Atelier Wen. The collaboration takes the name “Shuò,” from the Chinese character 烁, which can be translated as “sparkling,” “glittering,” or “radiant.” This aptly describes the shimmering and reflective qualities of hand tremblage – the rare and demanding decorative craft that graces the dial. For the new collaboration, the technique has been entirely executed by hand engraving specialist Coralie Mercier on behalf of GT Cadrans. To achieve the beautiful finish, Mercier pushes a graver across the 18-karat gold surface of the dial while continuously oscillating it. This meticulous work slowly develops a texture thanks to thousands of tiny irregular facets. The tremblage portion of the main dial plate lays the foundation with a radially brushed sector of either white gold or rose gold creating a border. The smooth contrast of this portion around the periphery houses the hour markers. Here, the brands offer a playful twist on the California dial layout w...
WristBuzz
Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.
Hodinkee
What We Know It feels like Ming has another hit on its hands here. The new 57.05 "Comet" immediately looked like a cool watch before I even looked at the press release, but once you dig into the specifics, it's pretty impressive, with all the usual Ming flair to boot. That means, yes, there's a pretty cool dial (that has a touch of vintage inspiration). There's an intensely stylized case. There's lume used aplenty (and creatively), and yes, there's innovation in a new patent-pending daylight saving time (DST) world time adjustment system. Let's start from the outside and work our way in. The 316L stainless steel case measures 40mm by 10.3mm with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug. This is a part of Ming's 57 Series design language, so it's got triple-stepped lugs (requiring nine individual components for the lug construction). The next step is the world time bezel. That's where the magic really starts. With a normal 24-hour world time display, you can get by just fine. Yes, not all DST adjustments happen at the same time (if they happen at all), but adjusting for any of them is a problem. Ming has arranged all cities with DST on the outer bezel; non-DST cities are on the inner bezel. You can rotate the outer bezel one click (15º) to move only the DST cities forward by one hour against the 24-hour scale. The bezel will stay fixed in either position, but if you're trying to figure out whether or not DST is engaged or not, you can just look at the small aperture between eight and nine on t...
Hodinkee
If you need another reason to visit Aspen this summer, Watch Week Aspen is returning for its third edition, taking place from August 13 to August 16. The long weekend is packed with endless opportunities to hear from industry leaders and see some exciting (and new) watches—and, of course, get outside and explore the town's charming alpine scenery. Best of all, the entire event is free and open to the public. The program kicks off Thursday with cocktails at the Gerald Charles Lounge inside Oliver Smith Jeweler, the event's founder, where attendees can trace renowned watchmaker Gérald Genta's legacy. They'll then have the chance to preview Glashütte Original's latest watchmaking innovation, followed by a presentation of rare watches at M.S. Rau and an expert-led panel about the pre-owned watch market and emerging collecting trends, in partnership with SYYNCH. New to this year's lineup is a 3K run that will take place Friday morning, led by Emmanuel Bütler, the U.S. Brand President of NORQAIN, through downtown Aspen. After breaking a sweat, attendees can join a session examining Hermès' Le Temps Suspendu complication, stop by a NORQAIN ice cream truck, and enjoy presentations on the Omega Speedmaster's heritage and A. Lange Söhne's "Lumen" collection. That evening, Avi & Co. will showcase rare releases from independent watch brands, including F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. L. Leroy will host a happy hour at the same time, where it will...
WristBuzz
40.5mm integrated steel case, H-link bracelet, exposed bolts, blue textured dial. Timex has picked three of the loudest Genta-era design tells and put them all on one €209 quartz. Here is whether it works.
WristBuzz
It looks like nothing else on the wrist. Crown at 9, a red locking bezel button, a case shape that has divided opinion for 55 years. Here is the history, the current model, and the honest question of whether the Ploprof is a Ploprof for you or a very expensive nope.
WristBuzz
No crown, no hands, an oil-filled dial and a founder from industrial design. Ressence started in Antwerp in 2010 and just released its first fully in-house calibre. here is the whole story.
WatchRider
When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...
WristBuzz
Every serial-obsessed Rolex conversation starts here: the reference number tells you the era, and the era tells you the spec. Acrylic vs sapphire, aluminium vs Cerachrom, tritium vs Chromalight, and why the 5-digit refs are the sweet spot most collectors quietly agree on.
WristBuzz
Swatch's plastic Royal Oak needs an actual strap the moment you get it home. Here are the four makers doing colour-matched integrated-lug Royal Pop straps in leather, rubber, canvas and everything else. Prices, colour ranges, quality, and which to buy per watch reference.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Fixing the Biggest Problem With Mechanical Keyboards I don’t think it would be fair to classify me as a luddite, but I would say I’m more of a nostalgist. While I have made a nice little career for myself online, I do miss when things were a bit simpler. You know, when tech oligarchs didn’t rule the world and I could play my little Flash games on Neopets and it would take four hours to download one song onto my Microsoft Zune. Sure, I have an office now, but it doesn’t have the same charm as a computer room. This, of course, is bootstrapped by the physical memories, too. The soft grey ball inside the computer mouse, for one. Turning the computer on with my big toe while balancing my dinner plate on my lap. And, of course, the clickity-clackity of the keyboard. It was elevator music to the millions of AOL messages I sent throughout my high school years and the bane of my father’s existence, who swore he could hear it from all the way down the hall. Now I use a Macbook and it’s a soft and gentle tap on my fingertips. Not to quote Joni Mitchell here, but you really don’t know what you got ‘til it’s gone. All the same, I’m glad I’m not alone. It see...
WristBuzz
From a €120 flag-themed G-Shock all the way up to a €9k Omega Spectre, here are seven watches that hit the red-white-blue brief without looking like a costume. Steel Pepsi Rolexes, patriotic Hamilton chronographs and a Fossil that shows up to every cookout.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Zenith A3630 Vintage Diver Here’s a rare gem to start us off this week, a vintage Zenith diver with original bracelet! This Zenith A3630 has a classically styled 38mm diver case in steel that looks to be unpolished. It does have some wear consistent with use and its age, but it does not look abused. The matte black dial looks excellent, with a contrasting white outer chapter ring and applied steel markers, and an unobtrusive date window at 4:30. The steel hands have large lume plots, and the hour hand has a nice big arrow tip for easy reading. The oversize crown is signed with the Zenith star symbol. The aluminum elapsed time bezel insert has some nice fading to it, but overall it’s in good shape. This piece comes with the original Gay Freres steel bracelet with a Zenith signed buckle. The Zenith automatic movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great hard to find vintage diver! View auction here Heuer Autavia 1163 Vintage Chronograph Next up is another heavy hitter, a vintage Heuer Autavia 1163 chronograph. Wow, this beast is a real beauty. The 42mm steel cushion case is superb, unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish. The black dial looks original an...
WristBuzz
Bell & Ross just dropped a helicopter-yellow ceramic BR-03, Breitling did a Tour de France Top Time in Merckx yellow, Tudor scaled the Bumblebee Chrono down to 39mm. Yellow dials, yellow bezels, yellow rubber. Here's why summer belongs to yellow watches this year.
WristBuzz
The Balancier gets a serious upgrade, and a new designation that could define how Greubel Forsey talks about quality from here on out.
WristBuzz
Nine new references, a better bracelet, and the Spring Drive UFA making its way into classic Evo9 cases. Here's what actually changed.
Hodinkee
Go Knicks. That is all. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Grand Seiko sold for $29,700; the Patek Philippe 570 is still available; the Certina CD sold for €120; and the LeCoultre Uniplan sold, but the auction house didn't upload the final price. Strays Photo courtesy Goodwill. Here's a Breguet Classique 5907 on Goodwill. Yes, a Goodwill in Minnesota received, as a donation, a solid-gold Breguet with a four-day power reserve, a manual-wind 510DR movement, a full guilloché dial, Breguet hands, and, as if all that weren't enough, the watch comes with its original box. As Warren G advised, mount up. Beyond that heavy-duty watch in the least likely place, this Dodane Diver is very cool, and this Vincent Calabrese (who also made the Corum Golden Bridge) Wandering Jump Hour on Meticulist is incredibly cool. Apparently, it's my time—or a good time generally—to be excited by rectangular-cased non-Reverso JLC models, and if you've been after a Juvenia Architect, this one seems like it'll be gorgeous once it's cleaned up a bit. I don't know anyone who collects Verity watches, but this diver sure looks great with its classic Monnin case and—there's no other word for it—rad hand set. Finally, here's another IYKYK from Zenith, this time a 40T, which has absolutely nothing going for it other than a beautiful, simple case and a dial marking beneath the handset that has to be one of the coolest movement-related badges on any model I'm aware of. In an effort to balance out last...
Hodinkee
What We Know Since Vulcain's revival in 2022 under the helm of Guillaume Laidet, a name familiar to most here thanks to his hand in brands like Nivada Grenchen and SpaceOne, it's steadily cranked out watches under a few collections, from skin divers to chronographs, and most importantly, its iconic design that is the Cricket alarm watch. While these modern Crickets have largely remained faithful in spirit to their predecessors, today marks a new limited edition from Vulcain with a contemporary twist: the Vulcain Cricket Titanium. The name kind of gives everything away here, with titanium being the main focus of this new run of 100 pieces. The 39mm case, in its slightly upsized modern form, is made this time in grade 5 titanium, polished throughout. The dial is also in titanium, with a stamped guilloché effect paired with white printing for a minutes track and applied indices. The handset comes in a variety of colors, with the skeletonized dauphine minute and hour hands paired with a black seconds hand, and a metallic nickel-plated alarm hand with a blackened arrow tip that points to the printed track to better set your alarm time. But that's not where the titaniumification (I'm going to pretend that's a real word) ends. Here, the Le Locle-assembled and manually-wound Vulcain Cricket Calibre V14 is also produced from titanium movement blanks, meaning that the titanium theme translates all the way to the inside of the watch and can be seen through the exhibition caseback. S...
WristBuzz
Ronaldo brought a Rainbow Daytona. Messi pulled out an off-catalog Day-Date with a turquoise dial. Casemiro is the surprise of the bunch with an F.P. Journe. Here's every wrist worth talking about from the tournament so far.
Worn & Wound
What is the ultimate first world problem? I can think of a handful. There’s the classic notion that we just have too much content to scroll through, stream, and consume. As the Boss put it, there’s 57 channels and nothin’ on. As I sit here typing up this article on hot early summer day with my AC blasting, I’m realizing it’s getting cold enough in here that I might need to add a layer. Woe is me! Just a few weeks ago, I bought a new iPhone and quickly found that Apple Music hadn’t automatically moved over all of my locally downloaded tunes during the initial data transfer. I was pretty disappointed when I realized only the second half of Turn on the Bright Lights was available to me on a late night drive home over the weekend. I just want to hear “Obstacle 1”! These are all annoyances, for sure. But none of them truly compare to the King of First World Problems, which is very obviously not being able to keep your perpetual calendar sufficiently wound. I mean, have you tried to reset one of these things recently? It can be really frustrating. Plenty of brands, like IWC earlier this year, have made moves to make their perpetual calendar movements more forgiving when resetting. Gone are the days, hopefully, when jumping past the current year means an expensive trip back to the manufacture in Switzerland. Vacheron Constantin has a slightly different solution, which is to enable your perpetual calendar to remain wound for weeks at a time by allowing the wearer...
WristBuzz
Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.
Hodinkee
What We Know It's been a while since we've heard from Autodromo. The motorsports-inspired boutique brand is a longtime favorite of many here at Hodinkee. Heck, we did a pretty cool LE with them back in 2023, featuring a special-edition series of Group B Chronographs. That same year, the brand unveiled its Group C, a watch that captured the spirit of digital '80s watches rather nicely. Today, Autodromo is launching its first totally new model since then. Meet the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, a fresh take on the practical analog-digital (ana-digi) watches like the Tissot Two Timer, the Heuer Manhattan Chronosplit GMT, and, of course, Breitling's Aerospace and Pluton that once adorned wrists behind the wheel and at the track a couple of decades back. The case is 38.5 millimeters in diameter and made from anodized aluminum – that's the alloy that your BMX bike parts used to be made from back in the day – or at least mine were. The new Group C Turbo comes in three anodized aluminum flavors, clear, grey, and gold. Each has a stainless steel caseback and features a grid dial that's meant to evoke the tachymeter instruments of the Group C Turbo racing era that ran from the early 1980s until about 1993, and was defined by European endurance events including the 24 hours of Le Mans. The Group C cars of the era that inspired these watches featured clean lines, ground effects that delivered high downforce, and turbochargers, offering outsized horsepower that demanded physi...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Atelier Wen Perception V3 A lot of the attention around Atelier Wen’s Perception has gone to the dial, and for good reason. The hand-turned fish-scale guilloché comes from Cheng Yucai’s workshop in Henan, which gives each watch a level of craft that has helped separate it from the larger field of integrated-bracelet sports watches. With V3, Atelier Wen brings that same level of focus to the movement, adding a customized Pequignet EPM03 with a 65-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and finishing developed around the brand’s Sino-French identity. Through the exhibition caseback, you see wind-shaped bridges and blue aventurine lacquer, a marriage of form and function. The familiar Piāo ice-blue and Xiá salmon versions return, joined by Yún, a new bamboo green reference featuring a micro-frosted case and bracelet – the first addition to the Perception lineup in four years. Piāo and Xiá retain the brushed and polished finishing. The Perception V3 is priced at $4,850, with first deliveries expected to begin in September 2026. Leica Cine Compact 1 Of course, we know (and love!) Leica for its range of cameras, but did you know the German brand has also dabbled i...
WristBuzz
Tudor finally gets the Black Bay Chrono down to 39mm, and the first version out of the gate wears a yellow-and-black "Bumblebee" dial. Here's what changes, what it costs, and why the size matters more than the colour.
Hodinkee
What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue. Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...
Hodinkee
Scorekeeping last week: the only watch of the four highlighted to have sold is that bonkers purple-dialed Sub from Tropical Watch; the Patek 3970, the Omega 145.022BA, and the Movado Polyplan all remain available. Deep breaths, everyone: another week's on the books. Auction season's in full swing, and there are wild results all over the place, but let's take a little breather here, together, and look at less dizzyingly priced goodies. Strays Perhaps you've found yourself of late—coincidentally!—more curious than usual about pocket watches. While Mark's the Official Pocket Watch Tsar, I've always liked them, and fight the urge most weeks to include any here. No more! This week, there's this extraordinary, anonymous jump-hour pocket watch that is almost unfairly beautiful for being 200 years old. If that doesn't float your boat, you have the relatively uncommon opportunity to nab a Thomas Engel Tourbillon (if the name Thomas Engel doesn't register, gird your ego before digging in—compared with Professor Engel, we're all pathetic underachievers). It doesn't seem reasonable that any of us should be able to purchase a gold Breguet pocket watch with hour and quarter repeater from 1795—insert Harrison Ford growling "It belongs in a museum!"—and yet you can do just that right here. If, however, you wish to remain yoked to the tyranny of telling time on your wrist, here's a Speedmaster Racing Dial which, yes, isn't exactly in showroom condition, but they're uncommon eno...
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