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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Karel Rotation By Independent Czech Watchmaker Ludek Seryn: Symmetry In Perfect Harmony – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 27, 2021

Karel Rotation By Independent Czech Watchmaker Ludek Seryn: Symmetry In Perfect Harmony – Reprise

To maximize his chances of being invited to exhibit with the AHCI at Baselworld 2019, independent Czech watchmaker Ludek Seryn felt he had to come up with something really outstanding: a watch that would bring him attention from both his fellow independent watchmakers and watch aficionados. With his creative Karel Rotation, it looks like he did just that.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Mar 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist

Bronze is nothing particularly new to dive watches. For a time now we have seen manufacturers leverage bronze for its history in diving and the precious metal like tone it carries on the wrist. But not all bronze is created equal. While collectors typically prefer natural patina, in favour of forced or faux-patina, Instagram is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref 4261 Mar 23, 2021

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’

Part of Les Collectionneurs – vintage wristwatches that have been sympathetically restored by the brand itself – the ref. 4261 is very much a classical, mid-20th century gentleman’s watch, albeit one with a minute repeating movement. The design is simple and accented by the barest of flourishes, yet it manages to be distinctive enough to feel like a Vacheron Constantin. In fact, the slim minute repeater with teardrop lugs is arguably the archetypal design for a Vacheron Constantin striking watch. The ref. 4261 that’s now in show in Singapore, part of a selection from Les Collectionneurs The little extra that marks out the ref. 4261 as a special watch According to Vacheron Constantin, the ref. 4261 was the first minute-repeating wristwatch model produced by the brand. Launched in 1943, it remained in production until 1951, but just 36 were produced during the period. They were offered in yellow or pink gold, as well as platinum. About a dozen were made in yellow gold, and this is one of them. It is also one of the last ref. 4261s made, having been finished in 1951, the final year of production. Most interestingly, this example is powered by a 13-ligne movement. It was the largest minute-repeating movement used by Vacheron Constantin at the time. According to Vacheron Constantin, just ten of the ref. 4261s produced contained a 13-ligne movement, while majority were equipped with a slightly smaller, 12-ligne calibre. Just 5.25 mm high – less than half the height of ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097 Time+Tide
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097

Seiko’s pop culture collaborations have offered a sensational demonstration of playfulness and creativity in watch design of late. You need only look to their Street Fighter or Naruto-inspired Seiko 5 lineups to see just how unique these watches can be, but the latest collaboration with recently-independent Kojima Productions takes things up a notch, bypassing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Mar 20, 2021

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months

If variety is the spice of life, then whoever who signs off on the G-Shock limited-editions must have some extremely tingly tastebuds. The staggering range of influences that inform these pieces is like something out of a Dr Seuss fever dream, happily jumping from Borneo rainbow toads to NASA space travel. The sheer number of … ContinuedThe post Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” Mar 19, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green

Conceived as a home-like atmosphere – and located in more discreet locations than traditional boutiques – AP Houses are key to Audemars Piguet’s retail strategy. And now the handful of AP Houses around the world have their own exclusive edition, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum with a smoked green dial. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202 is an iconic design, and one of the genuine instances where the label is applied correctly. It’s also thin and elegant, while having a substantial presence. And the cal. 2121 inside is an old but impressively sophisticated calibre. But the Jumbo is also one of the hottest watches today, and its desirability has long become disconnected with its intrinsic qualities. Being platinum, the latest version is extremely expensive, but also extremely attractive. The weight and lustre of the metal – especially combined with the fine case finishing of the Royal Oak – gives it tremendous tangible appeal. And the green dial, while not novel (it isn’t a modern-day invention but H. Moser is today’s best practitioner of the smoked finish), looks good. The new Jumbo is, in short, a beautiful watch that’s going to be rather hard to obtain. House exclusive There are seven AP Houses around the world, including in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, which will be the only venues to obtain the new Jumbo. Production will be limited to 100 watches in the first year, which means each AP House should get about two a...

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 17, 2021

Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise

If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad Mar 16, 2021

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad

Blancpain’s iconic dive watch introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was named after the maximum depth then considered to be safe for divers, about 91 m. The Fifty Fathoms also claims the title of being the first purpose-built dive watch, though Rolex contends that its Submariner came first. Produced in a great many iterations, the Fifty Fathoms has become highly collectible in good number of variations, including those bearing the “No Radiations” logo – used in the early 1960s to indicate that radioactive radium was no longer used for the luminescence of the dial. That watch has now been revived by Blancpain as the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad, a limited edition that channels the spirit of the 1960s original, but executed in modern-day Blancpain quality. An example of the vintage Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations” Initial thoughts A staple of Blancpain’s line up, the Fifty Fathoms has been revived in various guises over the last few years, with the latest “No Rad” being the latest of several vintage remakes. The abundance of Fifty Fathoms limited editions – all similar but slightly different – have diminished its uniqueness somewhat, but the “No Rad” is nonetheless compelling. For one, the design has some provenance: the vintage “No Radiations” is a rare watch that’s exploded in value on the secondary market. And the “No Radiations” dial is quaint and quirky, but also historically significant in the transition from radium to tritium, c...

Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai Time+Tide
Panerai While Panerai was founded Mar 15, 2021

Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai

While Panerai was founded way back in 1860, its rise to prominence came on the back of a very specific type of celebrity: the action hero. It was thanks to the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger that brand awareness soared following wrist-bound cameos in films like Daylight, Eraser, Rambo IV and The Expendables … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch Time+Tide
Seiko we’ve seen Mar 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch

When Seiko launched their new, vintage-inspired sub range of the Alpinist, we shared the three standard models in our story here, but we’ve kept the star under wraps. Here’s the fourth smaller sibling, the limited edition SJE085 Alpinist 1959 recreation, vintage purity on a surprising bund strap. While it might look like mere tweaks to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hottest affordable watch:  the Tissot PRX Review Deployant
Tissot PRX Review DEPLOYANT - Mar 6, 2021

Hottest affordable watch: the Tissot PRX Review

The Tissot PRX is in a sweet spot of affordability and good looks. While the points mentioned, the lack of AR, misaligned seconds, uninteresting movement may deter some, the PRX is still a very convincing product. If anything, it has possibly the nicest looking case at this pricepoint from a mainstream brand today. It's rated at 100 m water resistance, but without a screwdown crown, it's best to use caution with submersible activities. Quartz is also refreshing for those sick and tired of inaccurate 6r35 movements or handwinding their 2801 based Hamiltons.

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705 SJX Watches
IWC Revives Feb 25, 2021

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705

Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...

“How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches” Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

“How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches”

Before I throw myself under the loupe, I would like to make a few things clear. Nobody who knows me would particularly refer to me as Mr. Clean. I am not the guy who straightens the pencil on his desk, or cringes when he spots a pair of mismatched socks peaking out beneath the hem … ContinuedThe post “How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Feb 18, 2021

VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours Time+Tide
Hublot completed Feb 15, 2021

Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours

Hublot has always been at the forefront of exploring new materials and colours. Known for their motto “the art of fusion”, Hublot constantly pushes the boundaries in regard to what we all expect a watch to look like – as well as what it is made from. There are few brands, if any, where we … ContinuedThe post Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present Time+Tide
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as Feb 13, 2021

Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present

Some champions refuse to wear their hard-earned Rolex through staunch working-class pride – like MMA fighter Michael Bisping in our story here. But British boxer Amir Khan is a man of style and hardly shy of wrist. And why not start the “taking care of it for the next generation” sentiment literally by getting your … ContinuedThe post Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe two horological heavyweights whose Feb 12, 2021

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021?

There’s no Baselworld this year, but in April we will have the “phygital” Watches & Wonders to look forward to. Thirty-four brands will be in attendance, among them Rolex and Patek Philippe – two horological heavyweights whose potential novelties will, as always, be eagerly awaited. Back in September we saw Rolex refresh the Submariner collection, … ContinuedThe post Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2021

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor

It was Socrates who suggested that “the male libido is like being chained to a madman”. In Marlon Brando’s case, he was shackled to a veritable asylum. Married three times with two long-term partners, cosy domesticity wasn’t really his “thing”. This, after all was a guy who met his penultimate long-term girlfriend during a threesome … ContinuedThe post Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 11, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116

After not having had a platinum model in the catalogue for some time, Panerai is returning to the lustrous and heavy metal with the Platinumtech Luminor Marina PAM01116. But the case of the PAM 1116 is not conventional, PT950 platinum alloy used in most wristwatches, instead it is an extra-hard alloy with better wear resistance. And like many of Panerai’s recent top-of-the-line models, the Platinumtech Luminor boasts a 70-year warranty – which is double emphasised by an oversized emblem on the sapphire back. Initial thoughts Panerai’s recent launches have leaned towards lightweight alloys or composites, which makes the Platinumtech Luminor unusual. The brand has made platinum watches in the distant past – in both Radiomir and Luminor format – and they were always impressively heavy watches with a heft that matched their price tag. The new Platinumtech Luminor is doubtlessly just as impressive in tangible feel, and it is also helped by the olive-green dial that’s unconventional but attractive. The watch is accompanied by an impressive 70-year warranty, but it feels more like a gimmick than something of practical value. Aside from the decades that stretch beyond the lifetime of most living buyers, the movement inside the watch is a straightforward calibre that doesn’t need a 70-year warranty (which is probably why it’s viable for Panerai to offer one in the first place). The Platinumtech Luminor  is expensive for a contemporary Panerai, though not all tha...

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips Time+Tide
Feb 8, 2021

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips

Whether you are Darth Vader’s distant cousin or just enjoy the stealthy look of a ninja assassin, let us tempt you to the dark side. NOW, Time+Tide’s Watch Buying Guide, reviewed almost 200 of the best new releases from the last 12 months and among them were some real black beauties. From lume-infested diving watches … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour Time+Tide
Feb 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour

The vintage vibe already seems strong this year as we clearly see in new releases from Big Box brands and microbrands alike. So what’s happened to the modern, rugged sports chronograph, a staple of any decent watch collection? Well, have a look at the Sirrush Corbetti. Here’s a microbrand debut that just might possess that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the Bulgari Octo Finissimo accidentally became the most contemporary watch of modern times Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo accidentally became Feb 1, 2021

How the Bulgari Octo Finissimo accidentally became the most contemporary watch of modern times

Fast-forward 30 years into the future. You’re being chauffeured by your robot valet in your flying car on a trip to buy another pair of underpants made from laser-beam holograms (you’re not entirely convinced by them, but your cyborg wife thinks they look sexy). But when you glance at the watch on your wrist – … ContinuedThe post How the Bulgari Octo Finissimo accidentally became the most contemporary watch of modern times appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Make Mine A Double! The Macallan Whisky Mechanical Hip Flask By Urwerk (With Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Jan 30, 2021

Make Mine A Double! The Macallan Whisky Mechanical Hip Flask By Urwerk (With Video) – Reprise

Fine watches and fine whisky, for many the two go together like single malt birds of a feather. Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have been known to enjoy a smooth amber tipple or two, and as discerning gentlemen with discerning taste in haute horlogerie it's perhaps not surprising that Baumgartner and Frei also have discerning taste when it comes to whisky: single malt by The Macallan.

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss SJX Watches
Longines Jan 28, 2021

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss

From a robust profit of CHF748m the year prior, Swatch Group ended 2020 with a net loss of CHF53m – the first in decades for the Swiss watch conglomerate that owns brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot. This reversal of fortune was attributed to the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced many of its retail stores to close while putting a halt to international travel. On an operating level, Swatch Group eked out a tiny CHF52m profit – compared to CHF1.02 billion the year before. The year’s results were mitigated by an improvement in the second half of 2020, with sales in the second half of the year rose 54.7% compared to the previous six months, as economic activity resumed in Asia with pandemic restrictions lifted, particularly in China, which experience double-digit growth for the full year. And the Swatch Group also had to face a virus of the digital kind in the second half of the year. Reported in information-technology news but not in the mainstream press, the group suffered a cyber attack in September, leading to a mention of “a 10-day production interruption” at Omega in the results announcement. Hit harder than most With jewellery selling better than luxury watches, fellow Swiss rival Richemont was buoyed by its pair of jewellery brands that helped plug the hole caused by its faltering watch division. Although Swatch Group owns American jeweller Harry Winston, the bulk of its revenue is generated by watches and watch components. Net sales fell to CHF5.59 bil...

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking SJX Watches
Garrick Jan 27, 2021

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking

Garrick is a newish independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England. Founded in 2014, it specialises in watches inspired by historical English watchmaking, exemplified by the S1, an elaborately-conceived, but pricey, timepiece. Now the brand has launched its most compelling buy to date, the Garrick S4. Like its earlier model, the S4 still possesses many elements drawn from English watches of yore, but is executed more simply. The S4 still boasts an unusual level of hand-finished details – including a barrel and crown wheel cover decorated with floral engraving and hand-finished bevelling – but is priced far more accessibly, with a retail price that starts under US$6,000 before taxes. Initial thoughts While independent-watchmaking startups are proliferating, most don’t diverge too far from each other; many focus on dial and case designs that are modern looking, think Ming and Sartory Billard. The Garrick S4 is unusual, particularly in two attributes that set it apart – traditional, pocket watch-inspired design and hand-finished details – which bring to mind an earlier generation of independent watchmakers like D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The most discernible feature of the S4 is the dial, which is unabashedly classical in style. But like the pocket watches that inspire it, the dial has depth, thanks to a multiple-part construction and varied surface finishes, including an engine-turned seconds register. Over on the back, the view is necessarily simpler than that ...

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 26, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...