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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 What Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

What We Know Okay, let's do this one last time, yeah? For real this time. This is it. At least, I think this is it, because Doxa has yet another new watch (actually, a whole collection of 'em), and it's one a lot of people have been asking for. But before we get to that, a quick recap, because this year, Doxa has dropped (by my count and in rough order): the oversized Sub 750T, the new Sub 200 T.Graph II, the limited edition Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a LE Sub 200 T.Graph II with Topper, a Sub Army 200T (in collaboration with Hodinkee), and — just over a week ago — the very cool Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" in collaboration with San Diego's Belmont Watches. So, it's been a big year, and now they're rounding out the summer with a hell of a line expansion with the — now standard production — Doxa Sub 300 Ti5. Basically, this new watch takes the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler released earlier in the summer and strips out all the 'Cussler-y' details. The result is… well, it's basically a Sub 300 in titanium, something I've heard plenty of Doxa fans clamoring for since the Cussler edition launched earlier this summer. Unlike the Cussler model (which was limited to just 300 pieces) and played just a little bit more with the format of the Sub 300, this new Sub 300 Ti5 pretty much follows the recipe to the letter. Even the dimensions are identical to the standard steel Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm across, 13.4mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug (in other words, perfect). The dial and b...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler Hodinkee
Armin Strom Co-Founders Sep 2, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.  Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.  Claude Greisler (left) and Serge Michel, the co-founders of Armin Strom. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on...

Breitling Reissues Miles Davis’ Navitimer SJX Watches
Breitling Reissues Miles Davis’ Navitimer Sep 2, 2026

Breitling Reissues Miles Davis’ Navitimer

To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater Time+Tide
Oris swaps Sep 2, 2026

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater

L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial Monochrome
Trilobe Sep 2, 2026

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial

Founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2018, Trilobe is a French brand distinguished by its hand-free displays. Instead of traditional hands, Trilobe uses three rotating rings that align with fixed markings to display time in motion.  Last year, Trilobe released the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch with the brand’s unconventional display in an elegant steel case […]

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials Time+Tide
Gerald Charles Sep 2, 2026

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces hand-hammered Maillechort dials

The Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition introduces unique hand-hammered Maillechort dials to the brand’s signature asymmetrical design. It is strictly limited to 25 pieces per colourway in Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The 38mm steel watch remains impressively thin at 7.99mm and is powered by the ultra-thin micro-rotor GCA 1000 movement. When it comes … Continued

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm

Girard-Perregaux writes the next chapter in the Laureato’s long and storied history. Launched in 1975, just three years after the Royal Oak and a year before the Nautilus, the Laureato is considered an honorary member of the luxury integrated sports watch genre. The Laureato underwent its fifth evolution in 2016, becoming a contemporary, fully-fledged luxury […]

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video)

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant can now boast an impressive lineup of 35 in-house calibres powering the brand’s top-tier Manufacture pieces.  Redesigned and relaunched in 2020, the Highlife collection is Frederique Constant’s vision of a versatile luxury sports watch with a barrel-shaped case, an interchangeable integrated bracelet and a textured dial. Last year, the brand […]

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video)

The Chronomaster Sport is one of Zenith’s most recognisable modern series, featuring a contemporary sports-watch case and, naturally, an El Primero chronograph movement. For 2026, however, Zenith takes an unexpected turn. The new Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the chronograph and debuts as a three-hand watch yet remains powered by one of the manufacture’s high-frequency El […]

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Sep 2, 2026

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition

A character who, in his first television appearance, attempted to eat a rubber tire to the frantic tempo and tune of Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov’s “Flight of the Bumblebee” deserves a watch. On the night of April 25th, 1977, The Great Gonzo set the tone for future death-defying and bizarre stunts in The Muppet Show and continued […] Visit Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial

What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...

Tudor’s 100th Anniversary Celebration Continues with the Return of the North Flag Worn & Wound
Tudor s 100th Anniversary Celebration Sep 1, 2026

Tudor’s 100th Anniversary Celebration Continues with the Return of the North Flag

We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off. The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception. There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped...

Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Sep 1, 2026

Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size

Marking a pronounced design shift for the British watchmaker, Bremont released the bold Terra Nova Jumping Hour model in 2025. A field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches and World War I trench watches, the Jumping Hour comes with two different displays: a 38mm montre à guichet-style watch with a covered dial and […]

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger SJX Watches
Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper Sep 1, 2026

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger

A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...

A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT Fratello
Tudor Northflag GMT Tudor just Sep 1, 2026

A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT

Tudor just unveiled its new Northflag watch. The name isn’t new, as the brand initially launched this explorer’s model in 2015, just before Baselworld. I clearly recall that launch, which featured Tudor bringing Land Rover Defenders into a dark Swiss forest (ensuring safety) to reveal the watches inside an adventurous tipi tent setup. The Tudor […] Visit A New Adventure With A Familiar Name: The New Tudor Northflag GMT to read the full article.

First Look - The new M.A.D.3 Brings Vincent Calabrese’s Jumping Hour into the M.A.D.Editions Universe Monochrome
MB&F; … Sep 1, 2026

First Look - The new M.A.D.3 Brings Vincent Calabrese’s Jumping Hour into the M.A.D.Editions Universe

A celebration of proper independent watchmaking, looking back at the early days of creative thinking, unusual displays and complications that, back then, felt almost rebellious. A best of all we love here at MONOCHROME, served on a platter by the great minds of MB&F;… And at a fairly attainable price, as you’d now expect from […]

Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Fratello
Sep 1, 2026

Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Hodinkee
Corum Golden Bridge Photo courtesy Sep 1, 2026

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Today marks the introduction of the M.A.D.3, the third entry in the MB&F; spinoff, M.A.D.Editions brand. If you've spent the past few years entering raffle after raffle in hopes of securing a watch from the brand, this new design may offer another opportunity in this game of chance. The groundbreaking first entry in the series came from the mind of none other than Max Büsser, and the very different follow-up was spearheaded by prominent watch designer and frequent MB&F; collaborator Eric Giroud. This third edition taps into a watchmaker who, while quite a bit further out from the direct radius of MB&F;, has always maintained a philosophy on the expression of time in a very similar vein. An example of a Corum Golden Bridge. Photo courtesy of Das Kunst- und Auktionshaus Kastern GmbH & Co.KG. Calabrese's Baladin. Photo courtesy Christie's. Vincent Calabrese, though not necessarily a household name like many of his contemporaries, is certainly a legend. He's the man responsible for the iconic floating-movement architecture of the Corum Golden Bridge and the co-founder of the independent watchmaking consortium Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI, as you might more commonly know it). And among the dozens of patents behind his name, and many inventive executions of complications, he's always played with the concept of displaying the time. So I suppose Calabrese and Büsser are a match made in heaven, and here, we have the M.A.D.3 edition in all of its bright, sa...

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Bulgari BVL 362 based Sep 1, 2026

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...

The Movement Is The Dial: The Berneron Mirage Miroir In White And Yellow Gold Fratello
Berneron Sep 1, 2026

The Movement Is The Dial: The Berneron Mirage Miroir In White And Yellow Gold

Berneron is back with another Mirage, and this time, the name is quite a literal description. The new Mirage Miroir takes the independent brand’s already unconventional approach to watch design and turns it inward. This watch introduces the new caliber 283, which features a mirrored architecture that transforms it into the dial itself. Available in […] Visit The Movement <i>Is</i> The Dial: The Berneron Mirage Miroir In White And Yellow Gold to read the full article.

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Sep 1, 2026

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video)

Few brands are as intertwined with motorsports as TAG Heuer. Since the early days of the brand, then only known as Heuer, it has always had close ties with racing, predominantly thanks to its excellent mechanical stopwatches. The racing DNA resonates well within multiple collections, such as the iconic Carrera and Monaco. The Monza, however, […]

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition

What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...