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Review: TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition Ref. CAW211V.FC6466
We take a close look at the TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1976 Limited Edition CAW 211V, with hands-on analysis and historical perspectives of the original.
Results for Newman's Daytona at Phillips, October 2017
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Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Timex M79 Automatic, the Batman of the people?
Timex have kicked off their 2020 novelty releases with an exciting – for those with no signs of Batman fatigue – but fairly unadventurous move. A Batman to wash down their wildly popular Pepsi model. But this time automatic for the people. And this time potentially attainable at the drop, rather than months later. Put … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Timex M79 Automatic, the Batman of the people? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements
French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...
Time+Tide
Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look
Editor’s note: At a quick glance, the world of high-end dress watches appears relatively same-same, with the important qualities of each piece only coming to light under much closer inspection. Most dress watches will be time-only, offer a simple dial, and arrive on a leather strap, but as you look closer, you will notice the … ContinuedThe post Why the Breguet Classique 5177 deserves a much closer look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
1944: Patek Philippe Ref. 1591, first Water Resistant Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
It’s a leap year, and in the run-up to that special day Feb 29, Revolution takes a look at some of the Perpetual Calendars that mattered.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster
Rolex vs. Omega is an age-old debate that has seemingly raged since time immemorial in the horological community. However, the watches in question have always been the Rolex Submariner vying against the Omega Seamaster, or the Rolex Daytona vs. the Omega Speedmaster. And while the arguments for and against these aforementioned watches could go on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week
Though it may have been a few weeks ago, such was the extent of Hublot’s 2020 novelties unveiled at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week that it’s still got the horological hemisphere talking. For a start, the big talking point was that the Swiss watchmaker’s iconic Big Bang was unveiled on an all-new integrated bracelet, and thus, … ContinuedThe post Hublot highlights from LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
1925: Patek Philippe 97975, the World’s First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
It’s a leap year, and in the run-up to that special day Feb 29, Revolution takes a look at some of the Perpetual Calendars that mattered.
Revolution
You can’t make this sh*t up. Or can you?
We’re not saying that the Paul Newman 6263 on Bonanzaville was questionable, just that you shouldn’t believe every “NOS” vintage watch that you see.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze
Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six “Forgotten” Watch Collections, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sundays column, we take a look at six "forgotten" collections that deserves a spot on anyone's wrists.
Quill & Pad
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante: Serious High-Performance Synergy With Lamborghini – Reprise
Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini have a special relationship: the watches that have so far come from this still relatively young collaboration have not only been impressive but also suck you into the world of Lamborghini without a car even being in sight. It is almost like the watchmakers at Roger Dubuis have infused this watch with motor oil and replaced the ticking of the escapement with the growl of an Italian high-performance engine. And the Excalibur Huracán Performante is all the evidence you need!
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained
At the beginning of last year, the famed Le Brassus-based watchmaker Audemars Piguet released their first totally new collection in decades, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59. It is safe to say that the release got people talking, with an outpouring of expression on social media articulating many people’s disappointment with the collection, blaming it for … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel
Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Why thick watches are no good
I’m rather fortunate in my role here at Time+Tide - I get to wear a lot of different watches. In fact, in 2019 alone I tried on and wore more than 200 different timepieces. Getting to experience this many different watches is a privilege, and while each and every one had both positives and negatives, they … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why thick watches are no good appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown
Hong Kong’s political unrest has resulted in the first fall in annual profits at the Swatch Group since 2018. The world’s biggest watchmaking group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, just announced its 2019 results, showing declines in both sales and profits. Net profit fell 13.7%, while sales declined 1.8% at constant exchange rates, or 2.7% at current rates, to 8.24 billion francs. The drops in profit and sales were primarily due to a drastic contraction of its business in Hong Kong – a city with a population of just 7.4 million – where Swatch Group owns over 90 retail stores, largely catering to shoppers from the China. Sales in Hong Kong for the second half of 2019 fell by 200 million francs. While Hong Kong was the key driver of the decline, it was not the only one. The luxury watch business in general is suffering from anaemic growth, which is also evidenced by the watch division results at diversified luxury groups like LVMH and Kering. On a more positive note, Swatch Group has managed to fulfil its stated aims of reducing operating expenditure and thinning inventory. Operating expenses dipped about 6%, while operating cash flow rose 30% in 2019. And after several consecutive years of growth, the group’s inventories declined by 1% in 2019, to a still-substantial 6.85 billion francs at cost. It’ll be a slow 2020… With Swatch Group predicting the situation in Hong Kong will continue to be “challenging” in 2020, it is in a weaker positio...
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross
This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How could a humble watch bracelet win a watch fair? The Hublot Big Bang Integral just did exactly that, but why? How?
OK, let’s dispense with any hype and get down to it. Sixty per cent of watches are sold on a bracelet and this is a fact that Hublot are finally set to take advantage of with the Hublot Big Bang Integral, a new collection, freshly launched at the LVMH fair in Dubai in early January. … ContinuedThe post How could a humble watch bracelet win a watch fair? The Hublot Big Bang Integral just did exactly that, but why? How? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: First impressions from an A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus owner
Most of you reading this will have already heard of Gary Getz, or, as he goes by on his Instagram nom de guerre, GaryG (@garyg_1). But if for some reason you haven’t stumbled across his ’gram page or heard of him at a horological gathering, believe me when I say, the man hath some nice … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: First impressions from an A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Superstar DJ Carl Cox remixes Zenith; feat. Lume
If Zenith’s showing at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week is anything to go by, 2020 could well be the year of the eccentric collaboration for the Swiss watchmaker. Not only were members of the press treated to the unveiling of the handsome, if slightly odd, Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 Land Rover Edition, but they were … ContinuedThe post Superstar DJ Carl Cox remixes Zenith; feat. Lume appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Game, Set, Watch: Tennis aces and their timepieces
The 2020 running of the Australian Open is well and truly into full … well, swing. And with the best tennis players in the world descending on Melbourne, we thought we’d take a look at watchmakers that have affiliations with the pro athletes because, after all, one of my favourite parts of the AO is … ContinuedThe post Game, Set, Watch: Tennis aces and their timepieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Record-Setting Caliber BVL150 In The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Blink and you missed it, but Bulgari dropped another world's record at LVMH Dubai Watch Week.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA
Released at Baselworld 2019, this SUB 200 130th Anniversary Limited Edition diver’s watch was profoundly popular, and the run of 130 pieces sold out almost before it was released. Time+Tide’s own stock of this model, 30 pieces, was sold in just under two hours. We are offering our own archive piece for sale here, brand … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome?
Editor’s note: Oftentimes, it seems as though the annual calendar complication is all too easily overlooked in the horological hierarchy of complications. GMTs, Chronographs – these are the most popular sorts of watches at the moment. But the annual calendar shouldn’t be discounted … because it’s wonderful. A while ago, we went HANDS-ON with Longines’ … ContinuedThe post Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938
Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...
Quill & Pad
Best-Looking Cartier Santos-Dumont Is Now The Most Affordable – Reprise
At SIHH 2019, George Cramer was pleased to see a stunning new historically inspired Santos-Dumont model in stainless steel. And to his Cartier-enamored eye it looks even better than the model from the now-defunct Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) line.
Time+Tide
My week with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39
Since the Rolex lineup is peppered with all-stars, like the perennially popular Submariner, crowd favourite GMT-Master II and boy-racer Daytona, it would be easy to overlook the basic Oyster Perpetual as simply filler for the (nowadays usually empty) display case. After spending a week with the new-for-2018 white dial variant, I advise you not to … ContinuedThe post My week with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Novac Djokovic loves the Seiko Astron
Editor’s note: With all the action of the Australian Open now well and truly underway, and following on from news that Seiko and tennis ace Novak Djokovic have just unveiled their latest limited edition timepiece, we thought we’d take another look at their 2019 collaborative special – the Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic Limited Edition SSE174J. … ContinuedThe post Novac Djokovic loves the Seiko Astron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction
There was not a moment’s hesitation. Jean-Christophe Babin, the CEO of Bulgari, and I were standing on a pool deck at a villa in Dubai. Within sight, an emerald green ocean. Swaying palm trees. Skies of blue. A world away from the scene I had left, when I’d jumped on an Emirates flight 24 hours … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire
Released in 2019, IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire is available in both stainless steel and bronze. It features a similar layout to the previous generation 7750 movement Pilot's chronographs but with a reduced size at 41 mm and an in-house movement.