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Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Seiko s high-end line offering Aug 9, 2024

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, a brand that began as Seiko‘s high-end line, offering timepieces crafted from precious metals. Today, Credor is renowned for its commitment to superior craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility, which is evident in every aspect of its watches, from design to the intricate movements made up of countless minute […]

Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive Fratello
Credor Aug 3, 2024

Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive

The Credor Locomotive is, without a doubt, the most surprising release of the past few months. Credor’s revival of this Gérald Genta-designed classic from the 1970s had people talking. In particular, strong opinions about whether this was a good design or not quickly made the rounds on social media. At first sight, the Locomotive doesn’t […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.

The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater Fratello
Jul 30, 2024

The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater

It’s the last Tuesday of the month, which means we’re introducing a new Speedmaster strap in collaboration with the Swedish brand REM. We decided to choose a leather color we had never used before and feature an engraving of the lunar surface in a contrasting shade. The inspiration behind the Lunar Crater strap Lunar craters are […] Visit The July 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Lunar Crater to read the full article.

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were singled out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches

The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Madison Avenue boutique Jun 7, 2024

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive

Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback Fratello
Gerald Genta May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback

The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let’s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gérald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We’ve seen many brands leverage his […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko as Apr 30, 2024

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II.  Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko s will be found Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition

Seiko has possibly the widest range of entirely in-house-manufactured watches in today’s market. Everything from Spartan Seiko 5 watches to highly complicated Grand Seikos will be found. Since 1974, the company has even had a Haute Horlogerie branch in the form of Credor. And for those who are quick at arithmetic, that is precisely 50 […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition to read the full article.

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 50th Years Apr 25, 2024

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold

As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996

While Grand Seiko is often regarded as the top-tier brand within the Seiko Group, there’s yet another hidden gem that’s not as easily available, not understandable, but equals (and sometimes surpasses) GS regarding complexity and attention to detail; Credor. Born in 1974, Credor gained international fame in the 2000s with the creation of highly complex […]

Just a Minute with the G-Shock Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric Worn & Wound
Casio G-Shock Feb 23, 2024

Just a Minute with the G-Shock Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. We don’t witness partnerships between two giants like this often. Casio G-Shock and fabric maker Cordura have teamed up, and the result is not just a watch with a stylistic bent; there is material change, literally. In this segment of Just A Minute, we take a look at the G-Shock Utility Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric. Casio has chosen three models – the original 5600-series, the imposing 700-series, and the now-iconic 2100-series – as the foundation for this collection. Monochromatic, fully stealthed-out, and low-key, they are the perfect test beds for the first use of the virtually indestructible Cordura fabric, which is often utilized in equipment for professional and military use. As we’ll see, this is as perfect a match from a material applications standpoint as you will see anywhere. These watches are that good. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more...

TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour

Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week Time+Tide
Gerald Charles Jan 20, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week

Amid the routine scheduling throughout the week, surprisingly brands are still wasting no time and presenting novelties right away at the beginning of 2023. So here are three releases you may have missed this week that you may now want to check out. Art Piece Series: Credor CBY997 Limited Edition Black lacquer dial created by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Credor, Gerald Charles and Hermès releases finish up the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Nov 12, 2021

Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap

Named as Quentin Tarantino’s favourite British film, the gangster classic Get Carter turns 50 this year. It follows Michael Caine as Jack Carter who travels to Newcastle to avenge his brother’s death and winds up single-handedly taking on the local mob. Directed by Mike Hodges, Get Carter proved a controversial film at the time with its … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine in Get Carter demonstrates the timeless cool of a Rolex Day-Date on a brown leather strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Patek Philippe Rolex Jul 3, 2021

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence

For brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Richard Mille it is crucial to understand the best means of acquiring these pieces preowned. Unless you’re a VIP customer, these highly sought-after brands don’t tend to be readily available to buy right away (if ever). Despite this, grey market dealers seem to have cases full … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter SJX Watches
Panerai Jan 20, 2021

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter

In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...