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Ceramic

Zirconium-dioxide sintered ceramic; scratch-proof, colour-fast. Rado 1986, Rolex Cerachrom 2005.

Chanel Watch Design Chief on Reimagining the J12 SJX Watches
Cartier before joining heading across Jul 16, 2019

Chanel Watch Design Chief on Reimagining the J12

Perhaps the most successful ladies’ watch design of the 21st century, the all-ceramic J12 made Chanel a significantly player in watchmaking. After a run of nearly 20 years, the first generation J12 finally bowed out at Baselworld 2019, where it was replaced by the new J12. Possessed of not just a new design, but a “manufacture” movement produced by a joint venture of Chanel and Tudor, the new J12 is a major event for Chanel not just because it will sell in vast numbers, but because it’s the first entry-level watch powered by proprietary movement. The man behind the revamp of Chanel’s star wristwatch is Arnaud Chastaingt, a modest man with a keen eye for detail who leads the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. A graduate of two Paris-based design schools, the École des Arts Appliqués and Strate School of Design, Mr Chastaingt spent a decade styling watches at Cartier before joining heading across the city to Chanel. The Calibre 1 inside the Monsieur de Chanel Since starting at Chanel in 2013, Mr Chastaingt has overseen a slew of new designs, most notably the brand’s first in-house, high-end men’s watch, the Monsieur de Chanel (which really impressed me at its launch). Unlike most watch designers, Mr Chastaingt oversees the design of the entire watch, including the movement, explaining why Chanel’s own movements share a distinctive house style centred on repeating circles. I recently spoke with Mr Chastaingt explain the genesis of the J12. He wa...

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Time+Tide
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Jul 4, 2019

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

Editor’s note: With the announcement of Tudor’s ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019, we found our minds turned, inexplicably, to the darker things in life. And while the chances of owning that dark phantom are slender, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark is a much more achievable goal …  The story in a second: … ContinuedThe post Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver SJX Watches
Ming Jun 28, 2019

Introducing the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept Diver

Ming Watches has enjoyed a cult following since its debut in 2017, thanks to its affordable, smartly designed watches. Conceived by a band of watch collectors in Malaysia and then manufactured in Switzerland, Ming made its debut with the affordable 17 Series before going upmarket with the 19 Series that includes a world time. Now the brand debuts its first dive watch – a 10-piece limited edition that boasts a depth rating of 1,250m. The 18.01 Abyss Concept was born after Ming acquired a pressure testing machine and decided to create a dive watch in the brand’s distinctive design language. It is essentially an exercise in styling a larger Ming watch and also the response to a frequent request from clients wanting a sports watch. Concise design Ming’s unique styling was borne of the collecting experience of its six founders share and their desire not to repeat common designs. That is probably more difficult on a dive watch, since the standard ingredients of a diver are well defined. The same design elements that characterised the 17 and 19 Series watches – like symmetry and clean, geometric shapes – have been employed on the 18.01 Abyss Concept, albeit with tweaks for maximum functionality underwater. The most fundamental element of a dive watch, the unidirectional, 60-click bezel, has a ceramic insert marked with an unusual redesign of the conventional, elapsed time scale. Filled with white Super-Luminova, the markings on the bezel co...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Launched Jun 27, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ambassador Jun 25, 2019

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello”

Anyone who followed Formula 1 in the 1990s to the early 2000s would remember Rubens Barrichello as effective driver. Though the Brazilian did not win any championships, he notched up 11 wins and 68 podium finishes. Like many fellow Formula 1 drivers, Mr Barrichello likes watches and was once an Audemars Piguet ambassador; the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II of 2006 was one of the hottest watches of the era.  Unsurprisingly, Mr Barrichello is apparently a fan of the Rolex Daytona – arguably the auto racing watch – explaining his collaboration with Artisans de Genève, a Swiss outfit that specialises in customising Rolex watches. They gave his Rolex Daytona a makeover to create “La Barrichello”, a strikingly and heavily modified Cosmograph Daytona with an open-worked movement. Notably, Artisans de Genève just last year performed a similar custom job on a Daytona belonging to Juan-Pablo Montoya, another F1 driver who was active in the sport at the same time as Mr Barrichello. Both drivers’ skeletonised watches are novel in a good way; much of Artisans de Genève’s other creations are modern Daytonas modified to look like vintage “Paul Newman” Daytonas, which is arguably less interesting. Creative differences “La Barrichello” started out as the all-steel Daytona ref. 116520, which is the preceding generation of Daytona that was first introduced in 2000 before being replaced by the ref. 116500LN (distinguished by its ceramic bezel) in 2...

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Pocket Watch Every year Chanel Jun 24, 2019

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch

Every year Chanel debuts a handful of timekeeping objects that are sleekly monochromatic yet lavishly constructed of precious materials like gold and rock crystal. They are beautiful, expensive, and the sort of object that would look at home in a US$100m penthouse. And because there are enough such penthouses to go around, these objets d’art inevitably find owners every year. Last year’s collection of objects included the Monsieur de Chanel Chronosphere, a clock within a glass globe supported by blackened-bronze lions, which was a five-piece limited edition. But the collection also included the one of a kind Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch suspended in a jewelled stand, an object that is simultaneously discreet and extravagant. Photo – Chanel Although the pocket watch and its stand retail for almost US$800,000, it is discreet to a fault.  All of the materials within are precious, but the entire object is almost monochromatic. The pocket watch can be removed and carried, but is more likely to function as the ultimate desk clock. Standing about 25cm, or 10in, high, the stand is polished 18k white gold and panelled in glossy obsidian, a black, volcanic rock. And while it does not look the part, the sculpted lion is also 18k gold, but coated entirely in smooth, black Hyceram, a composite of ceramic and polymer. The diamonds within the stand are substantial, but subtle – the lion’s paw rests on a 18k gold sphere covered in baguette diamonds. The big ca...

This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch Time+Tide
Bulgari Apr 26, 2019

This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch

Editor’s note: It’s slender, but it weighs a lot. It’s gold, but it doesn’t look like it. I just can’t get the Bulgari Octo Finissimo in rose gold out of my head. And that’s even factoring in the epic new black ceramic version we saw at Basel. Seriously, will someone spot me $60K? The story in … ContinuedThe post This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire – the not so mellow yellow Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Feb 23, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire – the not so mellow yellow

Magic Gold, ceramic, sapphire. We all know that Hublot loves toying with case materials, and their latest comes as yet another clever spin on case materials - the first ever watch cased in yellow sapphire. Hublot wasn’t the first to get into the art of crafting sapphire watch cases, however they have been the first … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Sapphire – the not so mellow yellow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Dec 14, 2018

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Nov 18, 2018

VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph

For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes - keeping … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: It’s a kind of magic – Hublot’s Big Bang Red Magic Time+Tide
Hublot s Big Bang Red Nov 15, 2018

VIDEO: It’s a kind of magic – Hublot’s Big Bang Red Magic

“Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.” I’m fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn’t have Hublot - or even watches - in mind when he made the now famous futurist statement. But it’s certainly something that rings true for Hublot’s latest ceramic marvel. Because while most watch fans are familiar with the use of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s a kind of magic – Hublot’s Big Bang Red Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Diving into the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment Oct 29, 2018

VIDEO: Diving into the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III

Earlier this year, Blancpain announced the third generation of their charitable champion - the Blancpain Ocean Commitment III, a limited edition take on their iconic Fifty Fathoms. And while previous versions have distinguished themselves by being ceramic and Bathyscaphe, this time around we were treated to a regular (and regularly sized) Fifty Fathoms, in that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Diving into the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Tissot’s PRS 516 Automatic Small Second is the most fun you can have with three hands Time+Tide
Tissot s PRS 516 Automatic Oct 18, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Tissot’s PRS 516 Automatic Small Second is the most fun you can have with three hands

Editor’s note: Had someone mentioned word of a sporty, steel-cased watch with a ceramic bezel and a very clear automotive inspiration, my first thought would be that it’s a chronograph. But this is no chronograph; in fact, Tissot’s PRS 516 Automatic Small Second is something even more interesting. Introducing a novel and, quite frankly, ridiculously … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Tissot’s PRS 516 Automatic Small Second is the most fun you can have with three hands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Sep 28, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black

Editor’s note: What is it about an all-black watch that really gets the heart racing? I mean, it’s a neutral colour, like white, silver, or grey, yet just by adding a heavy dose of toner, an entire watch can be transformed. Case (and dial, and strap) in point, the black ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm. A luxury … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This Laureato is the reason why you should always bet on black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chanel J12 Untitled Time+Tide
Chanel J12 Untitled So deeply Aug 1, 2018

HANDS-ON: The Chanel J12 Untitled

So deeply has Chanel’s J12 become embedded in the canon of 21st-century design, it’s easy to forget that it was introduced only 18 years ago. From the original model – a chic, sporty and androgynous piece in black ceramic that Chanel’s then artistic director, Jacques Helleu, had designed to wear himself – it has evolved … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chanel J12 Untitled appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Confused by the ever-expanding TAG Heuer Carrera collection? Chris Hemsworth is here to help Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera collection? Chris Hemsworth Jun 24, 2018

VIDEO: Confused by the ever-expanding TAG Heuer Carrera collection? Chris Hemsworth is here to help

So, you’re interested in a TAG Heuer Carrera? Great! But I’m afraid I’m going to need a lot more information. Are you into modern, larger watches? Do you prefer time-only or complications? Ceramic or steel? Do you like Pandas? Because where once ‘Carrera’ was code for sporty, broadly classic-looking chronographs, it can now encompass some … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Confused by the ever-expanding TAG Heuer Carrera collection? Chris Hemsworth is here to help appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph May 16, 2018

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph

At Baselworld this year we saw Rado doubling down with two new limited-edition versions of their everyday and sporty HyperChrome chronograph. The first version, the HyperChrome Bronze, takes its form inside a case crafted from a combination of high-tech ceramic and bronze. While the second opens up its ceramic case, foregoing a traditional dial and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Red alert – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Mar 25, 2018

HANDS-ON: Red alert – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic

There’s been a lot of big colour surfacing at Baselworld 2018, but little that stop traffic in the same fashion as the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic. Though we can’t be surprised that Hublot would deliver something as loud and in-your-face as this new release, certain colours of ceramic have long been known as very … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Red alert – the Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $20,000 and above Time+Tide
Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Jan 6, 2018

VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $20,000 and above

The sky’s the limit in this final instalment of the best watches of 2017 – and the entry price to this exclusive club starts at a cool $20K. For this you can expect hot ceramic, classical tourbillons, cutting-edge design, ingenious engineering, and finishing to die for. Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Ah, the equation of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The best watches of 2017 – $20,000 and above appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Shape and sculpture – the Rado Ceramica Time+Tide
Rado Ceramica When Cameron told Oct 5, 2017

VIDEO: Shape and sculpture – the Rado Ceramica

When Cameron told us about the Rado Ceramica a little while ago, we knew we wanted to get a close look at this squared-off ceramic number. And when we did spend some time with it on our wrists and in front of our lenses, something became increasingly apparent. This is as much a sculpture as … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Shape and sculpture – the Rado Ceramica appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.