Hodinkee
In-Depth: Here’s How The New Omega Spirate System Works
We asked our head watchmaker to explain Omega's new Spirate System – here's why he said it's 'absolutely brilliant.'
Results for Rexhep Rexhepi (Watchmaker)
1,479 articles · 55 videos found · page 35 of 52
Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
How Watches are Made – the Engineering of Watchmaking by John McGonigle (Video)
Master Watchmaker John McGonigle of Oileán Watches, in the first of two presentations, gives a brief history of the development of watches and how they were initially made, their progression to precision instruments, the industrialisation of watchmaking, how modern techniques and materials have been adapted and how current hand-crafted watches fit into all of this.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue”
Grail Watch is proud to present Grail Watch 6, a dream collaboration of magnificent proportions! We are extremely privileged to partner with independent watchmaker De Bethune to create a deep blue-dialled version of their gorgeous DB25 Perpetual Calendar in a reduced case size of 40mm, first introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Our version is […]
Quill & Pad
Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise
Deciding whether or not to restore a vintage watch is a tough decision to make. The internet is awash with tales of watches butchered by an incompetent independent watchmaker or, worse still, the brand itself. Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted. Refinish the case? Change the hands? Replace the crystal? Here is some help for you.
Revolution
Grail Watch Revives the Chronoswiss Opus
For the latest Grail Watch project, we delve into the history of Chronoswiss, a brand founded in 1983 by watchmaker turned entrepreneur Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, who refused to capitulate to the onslaught of quartz watch popularity that manifested after the 1970s. He was part of a group of luminaries who recognised the desperate need to preserve […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Most Complicated Watch Ever: The New Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4
A total of 23 complications – including a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, grand and petite sonnerie, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon – show AP's prowess as a true watchmaker of ultra-complicated watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle
Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...
Worn & Wound
How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered
Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet. First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Spirate Hairspring in the Speedmaster Super Racing
Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster. Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches. Initial thoughts While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints). The patented Spirate hairspring The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production. As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s sim...
Revolution
F.P. Journe: A Retrospective Part 2
Part 2 of our retrospective on the watchmaking journey of François-Paul Journe sees the master watchmaker reflect on the difficulty of developing the Chronomètre à Resonance. Starting in 1983, it would take him 17 years before he could produce a resonance watch in series, another groundbreaking achievement with a complication that many regard as his […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Watch Guide
Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642. The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...
Time+Tide
The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1
The Glashütte-trained watchmaker presents his first in-house complication A minimalist, modern take on a moonphase complication Heavily modified and extensively hand-decorated Unitas movement Felipe Pikullik launched his eponymous brand in 2017, upon completion of his studies in Germany’s cradle of watchmaking – Glashütte. In that short period, Mr Pikullik has already introduced four different collections, … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Derek Pratt Remontoir d’égalité
Watchmaker Luca Soprana launches the new Derek Pratt Remontoir d’égalité Tourbillon with Dubai retailer Perpétual Gallery.
Revolution
De Bethune Part 3: The Private Atelier of Denis Flageollet
Wei visits De Bethune Co-founder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s private atelier, a place where he finds solitude to seek inspiration and conduct research for the brand’s next concept watch. Denis is probably the only independent watchmaker to have his own metal forge where he can experiment on different materials and craft his own watch […]
Revolution
Touching the Past at WatchBox
Wei and Jeremiah pay a visit to WatchBox Singapore’s offices at Liat Towers and discover an unbelievable piece of horological history – one of the 20 “Souscription” Tourbillons that François-Paul Journe created to fund the start of his brand in 1999. François-Paul Journe is probably the greatest watchmaker of this generation. He can be considered […]
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Felix Baumgartner
Wei speaks one-on-one with Felix Baumgartner, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to look back at the highs and the lows of the last 25 years of URWERK. Felix, a master watchmaker, co-founded URWERK with designer Martin Frei in 1997 and the duo have been upending […]
Time+Tide
The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know”
Talk about a twist. Here’s a move I’m willing to bet very few people saw coming: a stainless-steel luxury sports watch from revered Danish/Swiss watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. This couldn’t have been more of an out-of-left-field development, considering that the brand, whose origins stretch all the way back to 1773, has long been known for its … ContinuedThe post The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less
As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...
Quill & Pad
Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide – Reprise
Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.
SJX Watches
MB&F; Introduces the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano”
Designed and assembled by MB&F;, the M.A.D. 1 was initially conceived as a limited-edition thank-you for the brand’s longstanding collectors known as the “Tribe” and its suppliers. It then became a standard production model, allowing the wider public access to the most affordable creation ever released by the independent watchmaker. Now MB&F; has created a limited edition for GMT Italia, the retailer owned by the Corvo family, the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano”. Initial thoughts MB&F; embodies independent watchmaking, in my opinion, because it creates a whimsical yet alluring timepiece with authentic design and ingenuity. But its creations, typically priced in the six figures, are out of reach for the average collector. That’s where the M.A.D. 1 comes in. The M.A.D.1 “GMT Milano” costs the same as the regular production model, making it an appealing proposition for something with the flavour of avant-garde independent watchmaking without breaking the bank. With only 30 pieces, it will no doubt sell out immediately, but lucky 30 buyers will definitely have an uncommon M.A.D. 1 edition that stands out from its peers. More broadly, the M.A.D. 1 is avant-garde in terms of design and certainly looks like an MB&F; creation – but it is executed in a very economical manner. While the design is striking, one reservation I have with the M.A.D. 1 is the case construction, which relies on glue to secure all the parts together. But again, for what it retails for, that is accept...
Revolution
A Dive Watch with a Jellyfish Glow: Jacques Bianchi x Revolution Limited Edition JB200 “Méduse”
Wei takes us through our latest collaboration with Montres Jacques Bianchi - our take on the contemporary reissue of the JB200, a “destro” dive watch originally commissioned by the French Navy and created by legendary Marseille watchmaker, Jacques Bianchi. Limited to 150 pieces, the JB200 “Méduse” features the silhouette of a scuba diver, now fully […]
Hodinkee
Year In Review: Dressy Watch Of The Year: The Magnificent Indie That Led This Year's Dressed-Up Boom
It was a big year for dressy watches, but one young independent watchmaker stole the show.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Underappreciated Watches That Deserve Our Love
They might not be the headliner in the watchmaker's show, but sometimes the opening act can surprise and delight.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste
Parmigiani Fleurier is experiencing a mammoth resurgence under the watchful eye of Guido Terreni – we had a taste of this with their incredible releases from Watches & Wonders like the Tonda PF Skeleton. Today’s topic, however, honours the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani. A special person deserves a special watch. This prompted … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Lang & Heyne Introduces the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic”
Dresden-based Lang & Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that makes just 100 to 150 timepieces per year. Created to mark the ninth year of the partnership with its retailer in Hong Kong, its latest release is the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”. If the watch sounds familiar, that’s because the prototype of the limited edition was sold at Phillips in May for HK$819,000, or just over US$105,000. Now it returns as a serial-production timepiece in a limited edition of 36 watches – nine pieces each in stainless steel, white gold, rose gold and platinum. Lang & Heyne (L&H;) was founded in 2001 by watchmakers Marco Lang, Mirko Heyne, and Lothar Zieger. All three founders have since left the brand, most recently Mr Lang, who left to set up his eponymous brand. Their departure has allowed the brand to evolve into less traditional watches like the Friedrich II Remontoir for the Lavish Attic, which has a sporty aesthetic and titanium movement bridges. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I came across the prototype offered at Phillips. A watch with a constant-force escapement is something you don’t often see (even if brands like F.P. Journe have made it a speciality). That, combined with the stark black dial, steel bracelet, and sporty design, made it an unusual proposition. As a serially-produced watch, albeit a limited edition, the Lavish Attic edition retains the key elements that give it a distinctive look, namely the glossy, black enamel dial ...
SJX Watches
Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’
Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...
Revolution
In Conversation with Bernhard Lederer, A Master of Escapements
Paying a visit to Bernhard Lederer’s atelier in St. Blaise, Wei nerds out with the German Master Watchmaker about a crucial component in a watch’s movement, the escapement, which has undergone hundreds of years of innovation. Lederer expounds on the efforts by past masters, Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels to develop the perfect escapement and […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic
After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Omega De Ville Prestige range gets upgraded with a slew of new releases
The Omega De Ville Prestige line has been a bit of a hidden gem in the watchmaker’s offering, hiding in an already underappreciated collection. Closing in on 20 years since their first introduction, Omega is introducing a slew of new De Ville Prestige models for its third generation update. All mechanical models have been upgraded … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega De Ville Prestige range gets upgraded with a slew of new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’
An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...