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The First Authorized History Of The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Arrives This Fall
The second installment of Nicholas Foulkes's Rolex series is to be released on September 29 by Wallpaper*.
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Hodinkee
The second installment of Nicholas Foulkes's Rolex series is to be released on September 29 by Wallpaper*.
Hodinkee
In some ways, a simplified version of Smith's Series 4 instantaneous calendar with moonphase, the new watch is no less an impressive example of some of the finest British watchmaking this century.
Monochrome
Many companies have that one model that really epitomises the brand, even if it’s not the flagship product. Toyota has the Camry, Omega has the Speedmaster, and Rolex has the Datejust (you thought I was going to say Submariner). It’s among the longest running models in Rolex’s portfolio and boasts many of the signature features […]
Teddy Baldassarre
As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today. Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf The Zodiac Sea Wolf is an absolute icon in the vintage dive watch world, and this early metal bezel version is a nice example. There were many iterations of the Sea Wolf, with various bezel materials, dial colors and date/no date versions. This black dial, date with metal bezel is an earlier combination, and definitely sought after. The plated bezel is usually pretty worn, and the lume can be degraded or re-done on these. This example has a nice clean black dial with great lume on the dial and hands, and the bezel is in top shape. The crown is also original and signed with the Zodiac logo as it should. No movement pictures but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage 1970s Bulova Jet Star Here’s a wild vintage Bulova from 1974, that looks every bit the 70s watch. The 40mm gold plated UFO style case is excellent and unpolished, still showing the original radial brushed finish. The case may draw your eye, but it’s the bold two-tone orange dial that keeps you looking! The dial is a bright orange that turns darker at the outer edge. Applied markers outlined in brighter orange and steel and white hands with a day-date window at 3 o’...
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Monochrome
Last year marked the 85th anniversary of one of IWC Schaffhausen‘s most important collections, the Portugieser. Originally created in the late 1930s, the story of this wristwatch series begins with a special request from two Portuguese wholesalers, Rodrigues and Teixeira. They approached IWC with a simple but ambitious goal: to create a wristwatch with the […]
Monochrome
In watchmaking, few complications command such reverence as the perpetual calendar, and few brands have woven it into their identity as thoroughly as Audemars Piguet. While the brand’s mastery of this calendar complication dates back to the early 20th century, its true renaissance came through a most unexpected path: the Royal Oak sports watch. Let […]
Monochrome
Traditional dive watches have never waned in popularity, despite modern diving computers and even smart watches pushing them into technical obsolescence. The dawn of early divers in the 1950s is defined by two brands and two watches – the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. State of the art at the time and able […]
Monochrome
Is there anything new to say about the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? As the watch marked its 50th Anniversary in 2022, countless stories, insights, and personal accounts surfaced worldwide, deepening our understanding and enriching watchmaking culture. Yet to kick off today’s look into the ultra-thin 39mm “Jumbo” editions of this legendary series, […]
Monochrome
Rolex is no stranger to niche models, specifically ones that specialise in less-than-mainstream purposes. The Milgauss, for example, was designed for scientists at CERN in the 1950s to withstand magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss. Outside of this rather limited environment, it didn’t have much consumer appeal until its much later years and final models […]
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Monochrome
The story of the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore has been told many times, typically casting Stephen Urquhart, then co-CEO of Audemars Piguet, as the visionary mind behind the watch. According to the commonly accepted version, Urquhart’s sharp commercial instincts led him to assign a young designer, Emmanuel Gueit, the task of […]
Revolution
Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Ken Kessler examines the birth pangs of the wristwatch during the Roaring Twenties.
Hodinkee
Endorsed by many divers, including Jacques Cousteau, Doxa's Dive watch history is something worth exploring.
Monochrome
The Milgauss is an unusual model in Rolex’s lineup and certainly a niche offering, generally classified as a watch for scientists. It didn’t have the cool factor of racecars, jets, and James Bond, and, like many models in their early years, tended to sit on shelves, attracting scant interest. The Daytona was also a rather […]
Hodinkee
Cartier delivers high-jewelry watches with a (literal) twist.
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Hodinkee
No foolin'! The Hodinkee edit team will be in Geneva to bring you stories, videos, podcasts, and more.
Quill & Pad
The Swatch Sistem51 has been around since Baselworld 2013, and has received a lot of positive and negative coverage. However, removing the noise, the Sistem51 remains a great technical achievement and will go down as a defining historical model. It’s not perfect, but for any watch lover, it is still worth considering.
Teddy Baldassarre
Certina is a watch brand that may be fairly new to you, especially if you live in the United States, where distribution has been limited to non-existent over the past several decades. In actuality, however, Certina is among the oldest Swiss watch brands currently in operation and today represents an appealing and perhaps underrated option in the arena of stylish sports watches that are solidly built yet priced affordably. The Kurth Brothers, Grana, and the Dirty Dozen Certina has its origins in 1888, when two Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above). Initially, the brothers made movements and parts that they supplied to other watch companies in the region, but by 1906 they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces throughout the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the company’s sole name in 1949. Few Grana watches are remembered as milestones today, i...
Hodinkee
Exploring the legacy of JLC's enduring Art-Deco classic.
Monochrome
Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]
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Monochrome
The IWC Ingenieur collection has long been one of the pillars of the Schaffhausen-based brand’s reputation, even if the spotlight often seems to shine brighter on the emblematic Pilot series. In recent years, IWC collections like the Pilot, Portugieser, Portofino, and, to a lesser extent, the Aquatimer have steadily introduced new references, leaving the Ingenieur line seemingly in the shadows. For a […]
Monochrome
The Air-King is an interesting model within Rolex’s historic portfolio (known as an evergreen if it’s still in production), sometimes dismissed as too entry-level (well, back in the day). The sentiment is somewhat understandable but also misplaced, even if the Air-King sits among the most affordable models on the preowned market today. The watch goes […]
Monochrome
Rolex arguably has more iconic models than any major watchmaker, from the Submariner to the Datejust to the Explorer (and many more). Still, the Cosmograph Daytona has become something of a unicorn and a collector’s dream in the last couple of decades. At a time when the brand’s steel sports watches were still readily available […]
Monochrome
Since its founding, Rolex has been a powerhouse of Swiss watchmaking and the name is synonymous with luxury and success. Founded by Hans Wilsdorf as Wilsdorf and Davis in 1905, it wasn’t until 1908 that the patronym Rolex was registered as the brand name. Some of the most iconic models like the Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master […]
Monochrome
The Rolex Submariner is among the most iconic watches of the brand’s entire portfolio and even the choice of James Bond (in the earlier years, at least), but the GMT-Master series is up there in popularity as well, and arguably the most iconic traveller’s watch from any brand. It lived alongside the Explorer II models […]
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