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Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement SJX Watches
Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

Introducing – The Surprising New 34mm Diameter of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 2, 2025

Introducing – The Surprising New 34mm Diameter of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815

The name of A. Lange & Söhne‘s 1815 watch family refers to the year Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born, the founder of precision watchmaking in Glashütte, Germany. Inspired by F.A. Lange’s pocket watches, all 1815 models are hand-wound and feature classical details like the peripheral railway-track minutes scale. One of the most traditional, understated yet […]

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Apr 2, 2025

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel

Anyone familiar with Moser’s concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in Moser’s vocabulary, means maximum minimalism: no logos, no indices, no inscriptions…just the bare essentials. Moser is also intimately associated with beautiful dials and has shown how traditional métiers d’art, like Grand Feu enamel, can create strikingly contemporary dials. The latest Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is a […]

IWC Expands the Ingenieur Collection Worn & Wound
IWC Expands Apr 2, 2025

IWC Expands the Ingenieur Collection

It’s deja vu all over again for IWC. Two years ago at Watches & Wonders, the brand debuted, at long last, and after a great deal of anticipation and speculation, a new version of the Ingenieur. The new Ingenieur was effectively the sole focus of the brand’s Watches & Wonders output in 2023 – a fact that underscored the importance of the release for the brand. It was met, at the show, with quite a bit of acclaim. To put it on your wrist and to see and feel the finishing of the case and bracelet in person revealed a watch that was designed to compete with the likes of the Royal Oak and Overseas. Ambitious, perhaps, but not crazy. That said, IWC (and the rest of the watch community) have always known that if the brand was going to offer a true lower priced alternative to those integrated bracelet sports watches, they’d need to fill out the collection with some additional options. And that’s exactly what IWC has done at this year’s Watches & Wonders, dropping a dizzying array of new Ingenieurs in new materials, sizes, and with new complications.  Here we’ll focus on some of the obvious standouts. First, an Ingenieur that has always seemed like one that was missing from the collection: a variant in full ceramic. The Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic is exactly what it says on the proverbial tin. This is a slightly larger version of the Ingenieur released a few years back with a modern 42mm case, but much of that increased size is hidden by the deep black to...

First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Released Apr 2, 2025

First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar

Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ What’s Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’

What’s particularly reassuring about Grand Seiko’s more compact watches is that they don’t cut corners. When Grand Seiko introduced its 44GS reference in a 36.5mm case, the characteristics of its 1967 ancestor, the model that cemented the tenets of the “Grammar of Design”, were dutifully respected. Everything admired about Grand Seiko was present but in […]

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Apr 2, 2025

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold

In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.

Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs Fratello
Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs If Apr 2, 2025

Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs

If you are on the hunt for a humble, under-the-radar, slow-release charmer of a watch, feel free to skip this article. Zenith gets all up in our faces at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a 160th-anniversary trio of blue ceramic chronographs. Subtle blue? Nope, not quite. Say what you will, but at least this […] Visit Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs to read the full article.

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575

Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 2, 2025

Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions

Vacheron Constantin turns 270 this year; can you believe it? To mark the occasion, the Maison is releasing several new models. Among them are eight new celebratory limited editions of Patrimony and Traditionnelle watches. We will cover the other new watches in separate articles. I can, however, imagine you may struggle to keep up with […] Visit Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions to read the full article.

Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters - The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual And The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum Fratello
Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters Apr 2, 2025

Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters - The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual And The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum

For Watches and Wonders 2025, Chopard introduces two “heavy hitters” representing opposite sides of sophisticated exclusivity. The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum is a luxurious sports watch with a sub-10mm-thick case matched to an integrated bracelet in 950 platinum and paired with a shimmering “Shades of Ice” dial. The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual […] Visit Chopard Introduces Two Heavy Hitters - The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual And The Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum to read the full article.

Introducing: New Additions To The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Collection Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: New Additions To The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Collection

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 line represents the classical, traditional collection within the German brand’s catalog. Named after the birthyear of Ferdinand Adolf Lange, the lineup features one of my all-time favorite watches, the 1815 Chronograph. So whenever new models are added, the Saxon house has my attention. Today, we see the introduction of […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Collection to read the full article.

First Look – The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Alpina Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]