Time+Tide
Milano Watch Week and After Time are combining for the first time in 2026
The coming together of the high-end and affordable segments of the market will be seen first-hand at this year's Milano Watch Week.
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Time+Tide
The coming together of the high-end and affordable segments of the market will be seen first-hand at this year's Milano Watch Week.
Fratello
Ask me for a list of my favorite affordable dive watches, and the 38mm DS Action Diver in titanium will be on it every time. When Certina released the lightweight 38mm version of its popular diver, it stood out immediately, and not just for its great dimensions, solid specs, and attractive price. It’s also not […] Visit Certina Updated The Popular DS Action Diver 38mm Titanium, But Did It Get Better? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has expanded its Aquaracer collection with the introduction of new Solargraph powered references in two case sizes. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph watches are straightforward dive watches that should have a large mass market appeal with a (relatively) low entry price and an appealing movement technology that is geared toward grab-and-go versatility. These aren’t necessarily the most enthusiast forward watches in TAG’s collection, but they make a lot of sense as a simple quartz watch to have ready for vacations or other travel in the summer months when you don’t want your watch to weigh too heavily on the mind. In terms of marquee dive watches from large brands, the Aquaracer has a relatively short history, with the name first being used in 2004. For that reason, I think it’s sometimes an afterthought when it comes to Swiss dive watches from major brands, but it certainly has developed a niche of fans through the launch of interesting limited editions that have played with color and material over the years, and a design that doesn’t obviously trade on the look and feel of competitors from brands like Rolex, Tudor, and Omega. The Aquaracer has also always been pitched at a wide audience, with a variety of case sizes and variants that are meant to appeal to the masses. These new releases follow in that tradition. First up is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in 40mm, which the brand has positioned as the “ultimate t...
Monochrome
Launching a dress watch collection today is not that easy, especially when enthusiasts have already seen decades of Calatrava-inspired cases, engraved dials, and heat-blued hands coming out in every price segment imaginable. But refinement can matter just as much as reinvention. For Sero Watch Company, the goal was not really to create the most original […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-on review of the Timex Marlin Draper Automatic, a 37mm retro-inspired automatic with vintage styling and restrained design.
Fratello
This watch made me lose my loupe during Watches and Wonders this year. It also made me lose my mind. After the product presentation at the Chronoswiss booth during the last edition of Watches and Wonders, I was so impressed by this watch that I left my loupe on the table and stumbled out to […] Visit Hands-On With The Svelte And Soft Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco, An Enchanting 150-Piece Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s fascinating multi-axis Gyrotourbillon made its debut in 2004 inside a large round Master case. Four years later, the complication was adapted to fit inside the iconic swivelling case of the Reverso, followed in 2016 by an 85th anniversary edition powered by the thinner calibre 179. Fittingly for a watch with equestrian origins, the pink […]
SJX Watches
For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...
SJX Watches
Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...
Time+Tide
Gem-set watches take centre stage this week, with every share of precious and semi-precious stone being utilised across price points.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Panasonic’s L10 camera honors 25 years of Lumix This year, Japanese brand Panasonic celebrates their 25th anniversary of their brand of digital cameras, Lumix, with the release of the L10. In the past quarter of a century, the brand has done the remarkable job of positioning itself as one of the premier camera brands on the block – and it shouldn’t go unnoticed how tough this is with competitors like Leica, Sony, and other household names. And now that Lumix can legally rent a car, their L10 is a bit grown-up, and a bit back-to-basics (in the best way possible). This compact camera leans into a more tactile shooting experience, with a clean body design, physical controls, and a hybrid setup that works for both stills and video. It features Panasonic’s latest autofocus system, built-in stabilization, and high-resolution video recording, giving it enough technical specs without becoming unwieldy in features – or, for that matter, design. The Lumix L10 is slated to launch in June with a price tag of $1,499 in black or silver, with a special edition gold titanium model also available in limited quantities for $1,599. FieldMade Blackout Stealth Kits for Leica ...
Deployant
Casio continues to expand the cultural reach of G‑SHOCK with a new collaboration with Coca-Cola for a very interesting new fresh look..
Monochrome
For once, we are not going to talk about the launch of a new watch. Instead, we are going to talk about the premiere of a film – and a rather unique one at that. Czapek, An Unexpected Renaissance is something rarely seen in the watch industry: a 50-minute documentary filmed from the inside, retracing […]
Fratello
Early last year, Micromilspec teamed up with James Thompson, aka Black Badger, to release the Micromilspec Milgraph Sabotage Edition. The fun take on the Milgraph came with a story and a healthy dose of luminescent power, as we are used to seeing from Thompson. Accompanying the release was an animated setting known as The Time […] Visit Micromilspec And Black Badger Team Up For The Adventurous Broken Hour to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa Deste is an annual highlight on the vintage car scene calendar. Every year, the very finest cars ever made get invited to the shores of Lake Como in Italy and proudly displayed for the public to see. But that’s not all, as a specialist jury picks the Best of Show out […]
Time+Tide
The Chanel Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition proves dismissing watchmaking from "fashion houses" is a form of reckless ignorance.
Fratello
Orient Star unveils its latest anniversary release in three versions. The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second comes in green and ivory as part of the regular catalog, while a dark gray-to-black version is limited to 500 pieces. This collection leans into classic styling with a balanced layout. A subsidiary seconds dial sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Citizen CQ Crystron Diver Welcome to the all-divers edition of eBay Finds! It’s not often I find one or two decent divers to bring you, but this week there is a cornucopia of divers. We’ll start off with this awesome vintage Citizen CQ Cryston diver. Yes, it’s quartz, but it’s a cool quartz watch! The smallish steel case is in nice shape, looking unpolished with sharp edges and nicely preserved crown guards protecting the unsigned crown. The elapsed time bezel insert is in good shape as well. The black dial is excellent, as are the unique hands. The hour hand has a paddle shape that really stands out. There is of course a day/date window at three, with a Kanji day wheel. The watch comes on the original rubber strap with original signed buckle, which is a rare find. No pictures of the quartz movement, but the watch runs well per the seller. Great vintage Citizen! View auction here Vintage Waltham Diver Next up is this classic vintage 1960s Waltham diver. I’ve owned one of these before, and they are definitely well made. The steel case is excellent and unpolished, with crisp lugs and original brushed finish on the caseback. The seller doesn’t state the size, but it should ...
Monochrome
Marco Lang, known to many as co-founder of Lang & Heyne, has always practised watchmaking with a deeply personal perspective. Since leaving the Dresden-based manufacture and launching his own independent path, his work has become even more intimate and experimental, and the Seven Spheres is the best expression of his creative freedom so far. The […]
Worn & Wound
Arken, the UK based microbrand founded by Kenneth Lam, is back with a new version of their Alterum model in a Sage Grey colorway. The Alterum has been a tough watch to catch since its introduction in 2023. The first batch of 200 sold out quickly, as did a subsequent run. For the last year or so, Lam has been focused on getting out to watch events and showing people the Alterum in person, offering secret “Speakeasy” versions of the watch made just for those events (no photographs, please). So, a new version of the Alterum that you can actually order on a website is a bit of a novelty in and of itself, and for folks that haven’t been able to make to a show where Arken has been in attendance, or just would prefer this particular dial execution, now is the time to mark those calendars. We covered the Alterum here, but a quick refresher is likely in order for anyone not familiar with the watch’s unique mechanical footprint. It’s a two timezone watch, with a module built on a Miyota movement of Lam’s own design. That module allows for the tracking of day and night in two time zones and the independent setting of the local time by “locking” the GMT hand when rotating the crown counterclockwise. I’ll be honest here: setting the Alterum is kind of complicated. I’m an owner of an Alterum, and I still don’t quite get it myself. I have the local time set to my own time zone on the east coast of the United States, and the GMT hand permanently set to “Ken tim...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the Raven Trekker Gloss Grey, a refined microbrand dive watch with slimmer proportions, a ceramic bezel, and one of the best executions Raven has released to date.
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, Ballers. The air's getting warmer, the NBA Conference Finals are already providing extraordinarily compelling viewing (even if your team's already been bounced), and you've only got another month and change to set up your 4th of July plans. Don't sweat it, however. To paraphrase Dieter from Sprockets, now is the time on Hodinkee when we look at what's selling where. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Movado Cronoplan is still available from The Time Curator, the Patek Beta 21 sold for $26,750, the Hamilton auction closes tomorrow, so you've still got time on it if you're interested, and the Zenith Time Command for 460 GBP. Onto the show. Strays I'm certainly not alone in finding vintage Boucheron watches charming and worth more attention, and if you need further convincing, this Reflet makes an awfully compelling case. If you look closely at this Enicar Mantagraph, you'll notice there's no Swiss marking on the dial, and that, though the watch comes in its original Enicar box, the guarantee card is for a Seiko. This would all seem strange and potentially nefarious were it not for the fact that the Enicar Mantagraph is essentially a rebranded Seiko 7016, a movement well worth your time. Speaking of vintage flyback chronographs, here's a Longines 13ZN monopusher with a dial that seems designed by time and circumstance to test where you fall on the 'one man's tropical is another man's damaged' spectrum, and if that one's not enough, here's a Double-Red Rolex Sea...
Hodinkee
The Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. made quite an unconventional splash this year at Watches & Wonders, with its completely out-of-left-field collaboration with Reebok for the Streamliner "Pump," a watch-and-sneaker release that only this brand could somehow manage to pull off. But there was a release that kind of slipped under the radar earlier in the year that I think offers a really excellent combination of Moser's strengths in one watch, which warrants a closer look. I'm talking about the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton launched at the end of January, and it's been a watch I've wanted to see in person since the announcement went live. On paper, it seems like a simple enough concept: take the skeletonized flying tourbillon movement Caliber HMC-814 introduced back in 2024 for the integrated bracelet Streamliner collection, and pair it with one of Moser's more classic and conservative Endeavour silhouettes. For me, that skeletonized flying tourbillon caliber has remained one of my favorite architectures that the brand has ever come out with, and I think the extra bit of elegance gained with the Endeavour case makes it stand out on its own. That 40mm Endeavour case, in 5N red gold, should feel very familiar to those who like Moser's designs. It is a twist on a dressier silhouette that looks simple from the top down, but at any other angle, the Endeavour has many interesting little design touches, from the concave bezel to the distinctive sculpting of the case flanks. They...
SJX Watches
A menagerie of exotic movements features in Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections, from Double Splits and double movements to torque management and monitoring. Lot 2352 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance (Brass Movement) While the current iteration of the Chronomètre À Résonance is far more elaborate, using a differential to split the trains — each of which contains its own constant force device — this early F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance with its 18k pink gold dial was much more ambitious in its time, developed by an upstart restorationist from Paris in a market that was hostile to independent brands compared to today. Resonance timepieces, or more accurately, those using coupled oscillators, can be traced all the way back to Christiaan Huygens, also known for inventing the pendulum clock and many, many contributions to mathematics and the sciences. He described the coupling of his pendulum clocks as an “an odd kind of sympathy” and sought to exploit this dampening effect to make pendulum clocks viable at sea, though this was ultimately unsuccessful. It would take more than a hundred years for Abraham-Louis Breguet — often hailed as the greatest watchmaker — to bring this phenomena to a watch, and then almost two hundred more for arguably the greatest living watchmaker to bring it to the wrist. That was, of course, François-P...
SJX Watches
Having launched the first Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual with a gem-set bezel last year — to mark the 75th anniversary of the brand’s UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi — MB&F; returns with three new LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions set with coloured stones. Initial thoughts Last year’s Seddiqi edition featured a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. The choice of stone was appropriately dignified for the moment, but coloured stones seem to be something of a trend within a trend. Jaeger-LeCoultre debuted a trio of Reversos set with coloured gems only yesterday, and Patek Philippe has gone so far as to add its formerly off-catalogue seven-figure sapphire, ruby, and emerald-set Nautilus collection to its website for all to see. MB&F;’s move to embellish its highly technical watches in this way reflects the premiumisation of the broader industry, as collectors seek out the rarest and most exclusive ‘trophy’ variants of sought-after watches. This trio of LM Perpetuals is notable in another way — the black lacquer dials are unusual, similar to those used for the Longhorn and sporty EVO editions. Illustrating the brand’s continued independence — despite Chanel’s 25% stake — the dials are made by Hermès. Gems of many colours At launch, three colours of stones are available — red, blue, and purple — and each watch is limited to just eight pieces. The rubies are sourced from Mozambique, the purple sapphires are sourced from Madagascar, and the blue stones co...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we shift the focus from regatta timers to pilot’s watches. To be more specific, we are looking for five alternatives to the classic IWC Big Pilot’s Watch. Do you remember when IWC’s famous oversized aviation classic was all the rage? In the early 2000s, during the era of big […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the past few years, Union Glashütte, the sister brand of the more high-end Glashütte Original manufacture, has strongly focused on connecting its watches with car-related events and car-inspired designs. Take, for example, the Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025, the Noramis Date Deutschland Classic 2025 with an MB wheel-inspired design, or the BBS-styled Noramis Date […]
Monochrome
Geneva-based luxury goods group Richemont reported a 11% increase in sales at constant exchange rates (+5% at actual rates) for its 2025/26 year, closing at the end of March, at EUR 22,4 billion. At EUR 3.5 billion, the profit for the year’s continuing operation is up 27%. The trend for the fourth quarter remained positive with sales […]
SJX Watches
The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...
WatchAdvice
The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...
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