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Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
Time+Tide
The year 1984 was full of cultural impact. Fortunately for all of us, it was by no means what George Orwell predicted in his classic dystopian novel – in fact it was actually full of bright standout moments. Musically it was the year of Prince’s Purple Rain and Madonna’s Like a Virgin and in the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Relive the 80s with the Swatch BIOCERAMIC 1984 Reloaded Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Thematic capsule collections are a Swatch favourite, with recent launches including watches dedicated to the latest James Bond film and NASA. With hyper-efficient, automated manufacturing and simply constructed watches, Swatch is able to keep current with its thematic collections. And now with Halloween around the corner, Swatch has just taken the covers off the line up dedicated to the ghoulish celebration – the Halloween Capsule Collection, made up of a pair of watches that are glow-in-the-dark and appear entirely different from day to night. Your Time is Coming (left), and Run But You Can’t Hide Initial thoughts Glow-in-the-dark watches are cool because they light up in the dark. Swatch takes the concept and goes big with the Halloween pair – the watches are a bold 47 mm in diameter and matched with straps that are entirely “lumed”. The Halloween pair also stand out for the contrast between their day and night looks, a characteristic that makes them all the more striking and attractive. During the day, the dials are surprisingly low-key, with the faces barely visible. The faces on the dials only reveal themselves at night And both watches are clearly all about design. The dials are both smartly streamlined, with as few time-telling elements as possible – there are neither hours markers nor a date, or even a seconds hand Even the hands are thin and skeletonised. The hands do the job, but are not quite as inventive as the floating, “ghost” hands found i...
SJX Watches
Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...
SJX Watches
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...
Hodinkee
And it's not who you might expect.
Revolution
Chopard launches the latest in its series of Mille Miglia chronographs and this time, in the guise of a collaboration with George Bamford’s Bamford Watch Department in an edition of 33 pieces.
Hodinkee
Back in 2010, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-trod path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire bezel, signature Bremont three-piece "Trip-Tick" case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favorite of dive watch lovers. Then, in 2014, came the Supermarine 2000, which quadrupled the water resistance, introduced the anti-magnetic and anti-shock properties of Bremont’s MB watches, and beefed up the case from 43mm to 45mm. But for many, 45mm, or even 43mm, is too large for a watch, even a diver. So at last week’s "Basel-upon-Thames" event in London, Bremont released new additions to the Supermarine lineup – the Type 300 and Type 301 – both with an all-new 40-millimeter case.
Quill & Pad
I clearly remember watching the history-altering events on television on November 9, 1989: the day that the Berlin Wall came tumbling down. Since then, watchmaking in Germany, just like the country as a whole, has undergone a lot of change, including the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological industry.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: There are some members of the Time+Tide team whose watch collection seems to change on a monthly basis. There are constant purchases, trades, U-turns, I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments. Their sheer love of watches means the horological merry-go-round never stops. Our deputy editor Zach is one of those guys. Here, he reflects on one time he … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In 2021 Louis Erard launched its latest Alain Silberstein collaborations, breaking the internet and solidifying the brand’s new direction since 2019. This Triptyque, as Louis Erard calls it, comprises three watches, each limited to 178 pieces. The good news is that these collaborative limited edition watches are all accessibly priced, the bad news is that they sell out quickly. Find out why right here.
SJX Watches
A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...
Time+Tide
The dive watch category is among the most popular, if not the most popular category, with buyers of today. It’s quite a saturated segment, with many of the novelties inevitably sharing recycled design cues necessary for a diver. So, when a dive watch is released with a standout aesthetic it is worth taking notice – … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Swatch makes a colourful extension to their popular Big Bold Collection with four funky colours with cryptic names to make up the new Planets line.
Hodinkee
Let the hate flow through you.
Time+Tide
One of the coolest things about vintage watches is how they show their age, the lustre of that patina, and the scars and scratches they develop over their life. When I handle an old watch, sometimes I stop and wonder what happened to cause all those marks. But before I really got into old watches, … ContinuedThe post How my Tudor saved me when I hit a kangaroo on my motorbike at 90km/h appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, Mido, one of the brands under the Swatch Group umbrella, released the affordable Ocean Star GMT.The post How Swatch Group quietly developed a gamechanger for affordable GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Quill & Pad
The Watches TV goes deep into explaining a resonance movement in an easy way. The quick answer to the question of what resonance is in horological terms is that it encompasses two independent escapements in one watch that influence each other to average out timing errors. This video brings horological resonance to life and makes it easy to understand.
Time+Tide
Longines have made a strong move to increase customer loyalty, while also underlining the inherent value of their Swiss craftsmanship. From next month, the brand has announced that it’s extending their warranty on all models equipped with a silicon balance-spring. The new five-year warranty will be valid for all automatic models purchased (not produced) after … ContinuedThe post Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In his HODINKEE debut, former Ralph Lauren designer (and current Atlanta menswear impresario) Sid Mashburn addresses the eternal conundrum.
Hodinkee
Now you don't see it, now you still don't see it.
Time+Tide
If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the Earth-friendly Big Bold Bioceramic made of plant-based plastic, Swatch is venturing off the planet and towards the stars with the Space Collection. A line of five watches conceived in collaboration with American space agency NASA, the Space Collection is inspired by NASA’s colours and spacesuits. It is made up of a trio of extra-large Big Bold watches with Bioceramic cases, along with a pair of more classical Gent models in regular plastic. Old school Swatch: Space Race (left) and Take Me to the Moon. Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of Swatch and own several, including the MoMA “Starry Night” launched last month. The brand is often neglected by enthusiasts because of its fun and low-cost watches, despite Swatch having played a pivotal role in keeping Swiss watchmaking going during the Quartz Crisis. In fact, Swatch was crucial enough that its parent company renamed itself Swatch Group, despite owning brands like Omega and Breguet. It comes as no surprise that I like the new Space Collection, especially the Big Bold models. The Space Collection represents Swatch doing what it does best – offering fun, interesting timepieces at an accessible price point. In fact, the Space Collection models are likely the most affordable NASA-endorsed watches on the market. To put things in perspective, even the top-of-the-line Big Bold Chrono is cheaper than Omega’s NASA velcro straps. Starting at US$125 for the time-only version – the line up in...
SJX Watches
Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...
Time+Tide
Nope, it’s not another Speedmaster. At the MTV Movie & TV Awards this weekend, Justin Hartley best known for his work on the hit show This is Us (as well as playing Oliver Queen / The Green Arrow in Clark Kent / Superman origin series Smallville), presented the award for best action hero with co-star … ContinuedThe post Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s difficult to overstate the number of green dials we’ve already seen this year, but TAG Heuer have managed to find a new shade of the lush colour in this latest chronograph. The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition takes a strong design template in the vintage inspired Carrera case, which was use for both … ContinuedThe post The enchanting emerald of the TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it comes to watches, I am continuously torn between the two extremes of my personality. On one side there’s my inner OCD stress-head who agonises over every hairline scratch. But then there’s the side of me that yearns for a spot of adventure. Reconciling the two isn’t always easy. We all love to read … ContinuedThe post Would you rock a $100,000 rose-gold tourbillon for cave diving? Meet the man who does… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The most common choice for classic dress watches has to be gold, but have you ever wondered where that gold originally came from? And by "originally" Ian Skellern isn't referring to a gold mine on earth but the original source of the gold before it even arrived on our planet. Spoiler alert: it involves an explosion, a very big explosion!
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