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Let’s Start The Week Being “Brutally” Honest - I Love The Papar Anillo GMT Fratello
Mar 3, 2025

Let’s Start The Week Being “Brutally” Honest - I Love The Papar Anillo GMT

There are two ways to “handle” the peculiar watches in the picture - with a focus on the design or the specs. Both are impressive. The steel and rose-gold-PVD-treated models are available in a limited run of 100 pieces each. Because there’s an automatic Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT movement inside their architecturally shaped cases, the […] Visit Let’s Start The Week Being “Brutally” Honest - I Love The Papar Anillo GMT to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date That You Might Recognize From Somewhere… Fratello
Mar 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date That You Might Recognize From Somewhere…

Mk II first released its Fulcrum dive watch in 2013. This is nothing spectacular in itself, although it is remarkable to realize that it was 12 years ago. The inaugural model was a 42mm dive watch inspired by the great military watches of the 1970s. The new Mk II Fulcrum 39 is an optimized version […] Visit Hands-On With The Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date That You Might Recognize From Somewhere… to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection Monochrome
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection Feb 28, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection

Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko Worn & Wound
Bulova s Feb 28, 2025

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster   The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador  Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch Worn & Wound
MB&F; Feb 28, 2025

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch

As a watch enthusiast, you inevitably come to admire certain brands and watches that you know, deep down, you’ll just never be able to own. It doesn’t take long in this hobby to become acutely aware that it’s insanely expensive, and there’s a whole miniature industry of watches that exist in absolutely untouchable realms. If you’re really lucky, maybe every so often you get a chance to see a watch in this class at an industry or collector event, but we’re talking about watches produced in the hundreds per year, max. They are genuinely rare. The odds of getting a glimpse of one of these super watches is always against you.  MB&F;, for me, has always been this brand. They are perhaps the watches I love the most that I have the smallest chance of ever actually owning. Trust me when I tell you I’ve made peace with that many times over, as most enthusiasts have with whatever watches or brands are truly out of reach. This hobby would be truly miserable, after all, if we let the disappointment of never actually being able to own a six figure watch ruin our day. So when the M.A.D.1 project surfaced a few years ago, I along with many other watch lovers got a shot of hope injected directly into their veins. Surely you know the story by now: Max Büsser, as a “thank you” gesture to his many partners and colleagues that have helped him create so many incredible but wildly expensive timepieces over the years, designed a watch that was made with the spirit of an MB&F;, ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models Fratello
Zenith Models Another Friday another Feb 28, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at five great vintage Zenith watches. As I explained in last week’s list, that one and today’s are a little homage to Zenith. The brand from Le Locle is one of my favorite watchmakers. By releasing a seemingly never-ending stream of exciting and often surprising […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models to read the full article.

Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s 150th Feb 28, 2025

Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th

The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12 Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12

Sometimes when a new brand enters the ultra competitive watch market, it’s tough to know how seriously to take them. There are many, many upstart watch brands that come in hot and flame out quickly. We can all point to watches and brands that we’ve liked, seemed like a good idea, and then faded away, never to be heard from again. We can also, I’m sure, point to brands that have surprised us with their durability, and stuck around much longer than many would have initially thought. But that’s part of the game when it comes to independent watchmaking – it’s always a bit of a roll of the dice.  These feelings got, well, complicated when Leica entered the watch market a few short years ago. Leica, of course, is a brand that we take very seriously at Worn & Wound. For some of us, it’s a brand that we truly revere for their contributions to photography and the truly exceptional cameras and lenses they produce. So it was tough to know what to make of their entry into the watch world. I think the fear for many was that their watches would simply be licensed products, Leica literally in name only, and produced by the lowest bidder in a manner that lets down everything else they make.  In retrospect, it was silly to be so concerned. Leica, as a brand, seems to have a keen understanding that their products are associated with manufacturing excellence, and that this is a belief held even by those who have never owned or even handled a Leica camera. Their brand image is...

Hands-on – The Orologi Calamai GMT Automatico, an Accessible and Stylish Italian Travel Watch Monochrome
Feb 27, 2025

Hands-on – The Orologi Calamai GMT Automatico, an Accessible and Stylish Italian Travel Watch

Orologi Calamai isn’t a household name in the industry, but this small Italian brand has been producing intriguing, aeronautical-inspired watches since its founding in 2012. Unfortunately, MONOCHROME can’t cover the entire array of small, independent brands out there (we try, believe me), but Orologi Calamai definitely caught our eye, and we’ve covered them in the […]

Introducing – A new Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 / 831 Mechanical with a Crisp Ice Blue Dial Monochrome
Citizen Series 8 / 831 Feb 27, 2025

Introducing – A new Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 / 831 Mechanical with a Crisp Ice Blue Dial

Long reserved for the Japan Domestic Market (the famous JDM watches), the Citizen Series 8 is the brand’s take on the sporty, characterful watches made for daily use. Sharply designed with a mix of boldness, resistance and a certain contemporary elegance, the collection was given some fresh air in 2021 and became available worldwide. Since […]

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.