Time+Tide
The Neumann Automatic brings classic styling with modern touches at a price point that is hard to beat
Neumann’s second collection introduces six textured dial options with a blend of vintage proportions and contemporary design.
Results for Mother of Pearl Dial
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Time+Tide
Monochrome
Introducing - The Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition, a Baseball-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date
The Oris Big Crown started life in 1938 as a pilot’s watch with a large crown that could be operated while wearing gloves and a distinctive, red-tipped pointer hand to indicate the date on the dial’s perimeter. One of the brand’s most iconic models, the classic 40mm Big Crown Pointer Date returns today as a […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series
Jaeger-LeCoultre builds on last year’s smash-hit Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” in 18K pink gold with five new models. The simple yet clever addition of an 18K pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet renewed interest in this classic design. By pairing the case and dial with a matching metal bracelet, the Reverso regained its original essence. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Does The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Deserve Its Icon Status? (Review)
A pink gold Datograph Up/Down with serious chronograph engineering, rich contrast, and the kind of finishing only Lange can deliver. What We Love: Beautifully executed 18-carat pink gold case is as elegant as it comes! One of modern watchmaking’s great chronograph movements, showcased through a rich black and pink gold dial execution. Wears far better than the dimensions suggest. What We Don’t: Case thickness may be too large for some by modern standards. Dial layout may feel slightly imbalanced with integration of power-reserve indicator Traditional 2.5Hz beat rate may not appeal to those who prefer higher-frequency chronograph movements. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 There are very few brands in the world of watchmaking that can do what A. Lange & Söhne is capable of. The brand’s chronographs are also some of the most respected timepieces in the industry, carrying heritage, incredible craftsmanship, and painstaking assembly methods that place their movements among the best in the world. Fortunately for me, I had the chance to get up close and go hands-on with one of the brand’s signature chronographs: the Datograph Up/Down. One of the original 1999 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph models (Ref. 403.035) The Datograph was first introduced in 1999, and it quickly became one of the benchmark chronographs of modern watchmaking. Why did it rise to such a status so quickly? It was because of the model’s...
SJX Watches
Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical.
Kollokium returns with the Projekt 02 Variant C, hot on the heels of the A and B variants. For this third edition, Kollokium is bringing some colour to the (beach) party, rendering its topographic dial in a striking shade of Mediterranean blue. Initial thoughts Kollokium — an independent micro-brand from Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi — continues to find ways to rethink dial and case construction at an affordable price. As its name suggests, the Variant C is the third edition of its second model — Projekt 02 — which introduced the topographical motif last year. True to form, Kollokium is once again letting the dial do all the talking and has left the Variant C unsigned, save for the model abbreviation cast into the case band. Like another independent brand with Manuel Emch at the helm, Kollokium keeps a tight leash on pricing. As a result, the Variant C is priced the same as prior editions, at CHF3,666.66. It’s a limited edition of 299 pieces, which means it will be less common than similarly priced watches like the Tudor Black Bay 54 in ‘Lagoon Blue.’ Of course, cross-shopping a Kollokium against something like the technically advanced Tudor feels a little like missing the forest for the trees. The appeal of the Projekt 02 Variant C lies in its three-dimensional design and unusual textures — on these grounds, there are few alternatives. The Variant C can be pre-ordered starting today for Kollokium subscribers, and will be available to the ...
Monochrome
First Look - The Albishorn Type X-Graph, A Transparent Prototype Before the Type 20
Following the Maxigraph, the Marinagraph, the Thundergraph, the original Type 10 Chronograph and the later cream-dial Type 10 Officer, the young Albishorn brand returns to its fictional military aviation universe with the new Type X-Graph. Once again, founder Sébastien Chaulmontet and designer Fabien Collioud explore the idea of a watch that never existed but could […]
SJX Watches
Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray
Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics)
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Dennison + Collectability Edition Oblique Collection
What We Know The revived and relaunched Dennison brand that returned in 2024 and snagged a GPHG award with its debut, the quartz-powered stone-dial ALD Collection, is back with a fresh take on the retro design-driven model. Marking its second collaboration with U.S.-based Patek Philippe vintage specialist Collectability and its founder, John Reardon, the Dennison + Collectability 2026 Edition Oblique Collection brings designer Emmanuel Gueit's interpretation of asymmetric watch design, recalling Patek timepieces, including its Ellipse models, as well as those produced with famed Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert. Featuring the same case as the flagship ALD collection, in stainless steel or gold PVD coating, the latest Dennison + Collectability collab reimagines the standard ALD housing with an asymmetric bezel design that thoroughly transforms the look and feel of the timepiece. It's a surprisingly effective and imaginative way to reconsider the case at the core of the brand, and it has also been used in its two-handset, quartz-powered ALD Dual Time models. The collaboration is available in two different dial designs in either stainless steel or gold PVD. First up is the 'Oblique Enigma Dial' that features a metal cutout on the sunburst and a blue and green two-tone dial. The metal border accentuates the asymmetry of the design and contrasts with the same shape used on the bezel. The other dial is a sector-style or starburst pattern that the brand calls its 'Oblique Vecto...
Fratello
Introducing: The Redesigned 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph In Four Variants
TAG Heuer unveils four new Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph models, with two in steel and two in different grades of titanium. The 40mm steel versions feature either a blue or green dial and polished center links in the bracelet, while the Grade 2 titanium one sports the Aquaracer Solargraph’s signature polar-blue accents and a sandblasted […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph In Four Variants to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants
Orient Star unveils its latest anniversary release in three versions. The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second comes in green and ivory as part of the regular catalog, while a dark gray-to-black version is limited to 500 pieces. This collection leans into classic styling with a balanced layout. A subsidiary seconds dial sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second In Three Variants to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Power Reserve Collection
When you are a historic watchmaker like Favre Leuba, you can go back to the archives and return with a slice of the past and new ideas. That is exactly what happened with the Deep Blue, the brand’s six-decade-old dive watch known for its crosshair dial and 200m water-resistance. Stylish and genuinely capable at the […]
WatchAdvice
Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review
The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection
What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36. The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...
SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage
As Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations unfold, the brand expands its value-oriented Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two new commemorative limited editions. The HCC007 features a gradient blue Arita porcelain dial in an appealing 39.6 mm size, while the 36 mm HCC004 answers the call for smaller dress watch options. Initial thoughts Seiko has been making incremental improvements to its Presage line of entry-level dress watches since the collection debuted in 2010. Almost since the beginning, Seiko has used the Presage as a vehicle to experiment with ways to make traditional craftsmanship accessible, starting with fired enamel dials in 2012 and Arita porcelain dials in 2019. Since then, the Presage has benefited from a movement upgrade, and now boasts a weekend-proof three-day power reserve. The 145th anniversary editions prove that Seiko hasn’t run out of ideas, and the HCC007 in particular brings an additional layer of artisanal individuality to the execution that is rarely seen at this price range — its gradient blue dial has echoes of the Credor Eichi II in ruri blue. The charming and compact 36 mm HCC004 offers a little something for everyone. Powered by the same cal. 6R51 as its porcelain-dialled sibling, it features an embossed dial with a silk-like texture — the latest in a long line of Seiko watches with fabric-patterned dials. Both models appear aimed at the enthusiast market, as neither features a date window. This gives each watch a ...
Time+Tide
New releases from Ming, Oris, Moser and more
With the release of the Swatch x AP collaboration this week, the other novelties of the week have probably passed under the radar. We’re here to give them the light they deserve, and speaking about light, I’ll start with Ming, which uses two polarised filters as hands to have an ever-changing dial appearance. Oris remoderns … Continued
Monochrome
First Look - The New A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold
A. Lange & Söhne revisits one of its most distinctive designs, the rectangular Cabaret, and reinforces the model’s role by pairing the brand’s proprietary Honeygold alloy with a black-rhodiumed dial, a combination seen earlier in the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold, thus highlighting the importance of the watch. First introduced in 1997, the Cabaret stands apart in […]
Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition
Urwerk releases the final version of their extraordinary UR-10 Spacemaster, now with a blue dial in the same titanium/steel case and bracelet.
Fratello
Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions
To celebrate Seiko’s 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand has created a series of watches featuring a nice combination of blue and white. The series pays tribute to Seiko Blue, resulting in some surprisingly fresh creations. The new Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001 limited editions proudly sport a crisp white dial with a vibrant blue bezel. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition
Urwerk bids farewell to the Spacemeter with UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition. As the final series of the UR-10, the 25-piece limited edition features a dark blue dial that differentiates it from the black and silver editions released previously. The watch is otherwise identical to its predecessors, and features an instrument panel-like display that tracks the progress of the Earth around both the sun and its own axis. Initial thoughts The ‘almost conventional’ display of the UR-10 represents a departure for Urwerk, which made its name in satellite wandering hours complications. Like the quirky and impressive EMC, the UR-10 proves Urwerk’s space-age aesthetic works in a variety of formats. But the Spacemeter’s time on Earth was relatively short, having been launched less than a year ago. The limited production of just 75 pieces (25 in each of three colours) should reward collectors, but I’m hopeful the ergonomic case and bracelet will come out of retirement to house different complications in the future. The UR-10 borrows a number of stylistic cues from the UR-100, but the case construction is entirely novel. The 45.4 mm case is essentially a bi-level construction — stainless steel on the bottom for a stable weight balance, and titanium on top for a continuous look from case to bracelet. The two materials contrast slightly on the winglets on either side of the case, where they are fastened with bolts. This construction is similar to that of the original Pate...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series
When discussing super-affordable entry-level watches with enthusiasts, the name Citizen Tsuyosa is likely to come up. Since the Japanese brand first unveiled the Tsuyosa in 2022, the line has become incredibly popular. Over the past four years, we have seen striking new dial variations of the inaugural 40mm versions, smaller 37mm variations, and a series […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bell & Ross BR-03 Green Steel
The BR-03 collection by Bell & Ross has been around for nearly two decades, and by now, its square case with a round dial is one of the most recognisable designs out there. Originally launched in 2006 as a 42mm alternative to the larger 46mm BR-01, the collection was updated in 2023 with a slightly slimmer […]
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-03 Green Steel
Bell & Ross continues to enrich its iconic and most popular collection with a new green dial version of the BR-03. Press release with commentary.
SJX Watches
First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series
Seiko is reinforcing its entry level collection with the 5 Sports Field Series, a range of new models with compass bezels available in a range of dial colours from instrument-like white to brown, which seems to be a popular colour at the moment. While substantively similar to existing Seiko 5 Sports models and equally well priced, the Field Series watches feature serrated compass bezels with a glittering hobnail motif that is both functional — for enhanced grip — and attractive. Left to right: HDB009, HDB008, HDB006, and HDB007. Image – Seiko Initial thoughts The Seiko 5 Sports collection is perhaps the ultimate gateway to watch collecting. It’s the rare entry level watch that could be someone’s last watch as easily as their first. Not everyone is a collector, and some people just want a watch that does what is asked without asking for much in return. The Seiko 5 Sports fits the bill, while opening the door to the larger world of mechanical watches. The Seiko 5 is tangibly appealing in several respects, being one of the most affordable mechanical watches from a fully integrated manufacture. With Seiko, there’s no wondering who made what — the brand even formulates its own luminous compound for the hands, hour markers, and bezel pip instead of relying on the same suppliers as everyone else. Seiko also understands the aesthetic history of the wristwatch because the brand helped write it. This explains some of the subtle details like the tiny serifs on the hour ...
SJX Watches
Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious. While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces. Initial thoughts Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull. The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale. For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal. The everyday luxury chronograph The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New De Bethune DB27 Night Hawk for EsperLuxe
Over the past decade, the De Bethune DB27 collection has served as the independent brand’s most restrained yet highly technical expression of its watchmaking credentials. Introduced in 2012 with the Titan Hawk, later refined in V2 form and multiplied through editions such as the JPS or green dial variants, the DB27 has consistently combined lightweight titanium […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk" In Collaboration With EsperLuxe
What We Know For me, a De Bethune has to take a cue from Miles Davis. It better be "Kind of Blue." Over at EsperLuxe, the indie retailer outside of Boston, it seems like they agree with me. There are a few firsts in the new DB27 "Night Hawk," at least for the DB27 collection. Normally called the "Titan Hawk," it's previously come in a slightly more straightforward package, with concentric "microlight" circles engraved on the dial, the patented articulating lugs, and the crown at 12 o'clock. But there are many features here that the DB27 hasn't had before. For the first time, a titanium flame-blued "Starry Sky" motif appears on the dial, with stars laid out to mark the date and location where EsperLuxe finalized its partnership with De Bethune in 2021. Not new, but a good look, are the printed silver Roman numerals on the sloping middle dial, the printed railroad track, and the 5-minute intervals. The watch features mirror-polished flame-blued titanium hands with silver tips. The case is polished grade 5 titanium, with a midcase engraved in De Bethune's microlight style. But the kicker is the super-cool (again, first time ever) matte-blue titanium short, articulating lugs. I know that it's weird to go on and on about lugs, but some of you haven't had a chance to try on a De Bethune. Yes, the case is 43mm in diameter, 9mm thick (which is pretty good, considering it has an automatic movement), but with the hinge on the lugs, the lug can vary in range from about 50mm to 47mm...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase Skeleton in Steel & Blue
The latest evolution of the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase moves from classical to a more technical, contemporary appearance. One of the brand‘s most recognisable models, this new version introduces an openworked dial and a fresh “Steel Blue” colour, bringing modern dynamism and versatility to an otherwise familiar watch. The Belisar line has always […]
Fratello
IFL Watches Introduces The Maen Manhattan Paradox
IFL Watches is not kidding around when it comes to new releases. For its latest project, the brand used the Maen Manhattan 37 as the canvas to create a series of hand-painted dials inspired by geometrical art. The result is a watch that combines the angular ’70s style of the Manhattan with a colorful dial […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Maen Manhattan Paradox to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces
It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...