Results for Vallée de Joux

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Aug 19, 2026

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status

This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan.  For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Roger W. Smith Aug 19, 2026

Essays: Georges Daniels At 100 And A Personal Reflection By Roger W. Smith OBE

On the 100th anniversary of the birth of the legendary horologist and watchmaker Dr. George Daniels CBE, Hodinkee is honored to publish an essay from Daniels protege and friend, Roger W. Smith OBE, who has taken up the mantle of continuing the legacy of Daniels and his method of watchmaking. The bond between the two of them, though decades apart in age, has revitalized the rich legacy of British watchmaking. After the article, we'll share excerpts from an interview with Smith about his relationship with Daniels. — Hodinkee George Daniels at 100, A Personal Reflection by Roger W. Smith OBE On 19 August 2026, Dr. George Daniels CBE would have celebrated his 100th birthday. For most people, a centenary is an opportunity to look back. For those of us fortunate enough to have known him, it is also an opportunity to reflect on ideas that remain remarkably relevant today. The George Daniels Grand Complication from 1987. Throughout his lifetime, George made just twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches. I remember chatting with him on the opening night of his 'Retrospective Exhibition' at Sotheby's in 2006. Before the exhibition cases had been filled, he told me he had been sitting beside the assembled collection of his life's work. It fitted into just two A4-sized foam-lined metal trays. Yet those twenty-six watches contained ideas that fundamentally changed modern mechanical timekeeping. Few, if any, watchmakers have produced so little, yet influenced so much. "The Blue...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - The New Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC

Since the debut of the Independence Skeleton in 2022, followed by the fifth-anniversary Skeleton editions in 2023 and the more compact 40mm model introduced last year, Norqain has established its approach to skeletonisation. Without chasing the extremes, the brand offers a combination of a contemporary openworked design and the robust, adventure-ready character that defines the […]

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics Models Aug 18, 2026

A Look at the New Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics: Models C029.462.16.011.00 and C029.462.26.051.00

Over the years, I have added a few Certina watches to my collection. I enjoy wearing them because the brand consistently delivers timepieces that are well-made and nice to look at. Certina has a reputation for building solid, reliable watches, and my personal experience with them has confirmed this. Recently, they introduced two new models to their DS-1 Chronograph Automatic lineup: reference C029.462.16.011.00 and reference C029.462.26.051.00. I took some time to look closely at these releases to see what they offer. Both of these new chronographs share the same core foundation. They are housed in a 42-millimeter case made from 316L stainless steel. This size gives the watch a substantial presence on the wrist without being overly bulky. Inside both watches beats the Valjoux A05.231 automatic movement. This is a movement that features a silicon hairspring, which helps protect the watch from magnetic fields. It also provides a generous 68-hour power reserve. This means you can take the watch off on a Friday evening, and it will still be running on Monday morning. As part of Certina’s Double Security concept, both models are water-resistant up to 100 meters and feature a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Model C029.462.16.011.00: Clean and Classic Style The first model is the more traditional of the two. It features a crisp white dial set inside a polished silver-tone case. The dial layout is very clean, displaying the time, the date, and the chronograph sub-dials in a ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On: Vario’s Navi Collection Goes International

As I expand my knowledge of microbrands, I was super excited to receive a sample from Vario, a Singapore-based company that’s been going strong for a decade. The brand’s latest offering builds on its Navi collection, which first joined Vario’s catalog in 2021. The line holds firm to its nautical roots with its sleek and refined interpretation of a porthole throughout the case and dial along with its compass and anchor hands and sailor-cap crown. Over the past five years, the Navi has taken a few forms, from the inaugural jump-hour to special editions like the Popeye and Vario’s collaboration with Watch Enthusiasts India (WEI). In 2024, we saw the introduction of a single-hand version, offering a slow-time display with an Engine Order Telegraph (EOT) 12-section dial in which each of the 12 sections is broken down into 15-minute intervals for a general reading of the time rather than one to the exact minute. Now, Vario builds on this design with five new colorways and, for the first time, new languages. With this extension of the Navi collection, Vario is taking the line into international waters starting regionally with Chapter One: Europe. The foundation of the models remains the same as what we saw in the original and now sold-out single hand version. The case is rendered in 316L stainless steel and executed in highly wearable proportions at 38mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness. The lugs strike a good balance of geometry and curvature that allows the model to si...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Patek Philippe Aug 18, 2026

Twelve Market Observations By Ben Clymer (August 2026)

Some version of this story has been in the back of my mind for months, maybe years. Because I see, hear, and experience so many wild things in my watch life that it's hard to really understand, I thought the best thing I could do was share them with you. Some of the below are simple opinions; others are hard and true facts. I think I have a unique position in the watch space as the president of a large media outlet (so I see traffic information and click tendencies), I'm a long time consumer of all kinds of watches (vintage, new, independent, big and small), something of a pundit on the industry for large media outlets, a participant in basically all the organizations that focus on the watch industry, and of course, an officer at one of the largest modern watch retailers in the world.  Beyond that, the amount of DMs I get from total strangers asking me watch questions is simply b-a-n-a-n-a-s  (should that be a series unto itself?). So I thought I'd take some of what's been on my mind from all of the above sources and put it on paper to be read, debated, and (dis)agreed with. So, here are five things that are happening in the watch world that make zero sense, and five more that make a ton of sense. FIVE THINGS HAPPENING IN TODAY'S WATCH MARKET THAT MAKE ZERO SENSE 1. Complicated (Vintage And New!) Patek Philippe Is Trading Below Where It Should Be Trading The 5270G is a fantastic watch, and even at retail, represents very solid value compared to what else is happening out...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series

What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre Videos

Teddy Baldassarre Videos

Aug 18, 2026

The Most Compelling Moonphase Watches on the Market

Although basically superfluous nowadays, there is something endearing about the moonphase complication.  For one, it speaks the same romantic language of the craft, all while managing to seamlessly fit into broader watch designs without distracting. We have heard people complain, "Why did they put a date on a watch?" B

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Berneron Aug 18, 2026

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir

Since founding his independent brand in 2022, Sylvain Berneron has built a reputation around a distinctive approach to form, mechanics and scarcity. His experience on the creative side of major organisations clearly shaped his understanding of both product design and the power of restraint. His first watch, the Mirage, established that philosophy immediately. Introduced in […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review Aug 17, 2026

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch?

I added the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 (Ref. WV211B.BA0787) to my collection back in 2019. Since then, I’ve been wearing it through various phases of daily life, travel and work. This review is not going to be filled with breathless hype or exaggerated claims about horological perfection. Instead, it is an honest, personal look at what it is actually like owning this specific Carrera. If you are considering buying one on the pre-owned market, this review is for you. And yes, we definitely need to talk about Inception. If you are short on time, here are the Pros and Cons The Pros: Timeless Dimensions: The 39mm case is extremely comfortable, versatile and avoids aging poorly with changing fashion trends.   Exceptional Build Quality: Punches well above its price point with crisp case edges, alternating polished and brushed steel, dual sapphire crystals and a beautifully finished bracelet. Cinematic Pedigree: While it shouldn’t be the only reason to buy a watch, the connection to Inception adds a layer of enjoyable history to the piece. Reliable Movement: The Calibre 5 is a robust, well-known movement that will never be difficult or exorbitantly expensive to maintain. The Cons: Water Resistance: 50 meters with a push-pull crown restricts this watch to land-based activities. Lug Width: The 19mm lug width makes sourcing third-party straps slightly inconvenient.   Lack of Clasp Adjustment: Achieving the perfect bracelet fit relies strictly on adding or removing h...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ming he had “used time Aug 17, 2026

Complicated Collectors: J. B. Champion Jr.

On October 25, 1967, Joe Ben “J. B.” Champion Jr. sat silently through the murder trial of a client named E. K. Bearden. It was the second time the prominent Texas defence attorney had conducted himself in this fashion in just a few months, claiming he had “used time to [his] advantage” during the trial. But no great strategy emerged and both clients were found guilty. Champion’s mysterious behaviour was concerning for a man who once objected to being called a “pretty good” lawyer, retorting “Pretty good? I’m the best!” The apparent carelessness of his courtroom antics contradict the fastidious elements of his personality that are apparent from his single-minded approach to watch collecting. Ardmore to Dallas Champion was born on August 16, 1917 in Dallas, Texas. His father’s oil royalties left him independently wealthy; he never needed to practise law to support himself, but did so anyway. Friends attributed it to the same competitive streak that had made him a regionally ranked tennis player before he turned to the courtroom. He stood an imposing six-foot-two inches by one account, and was accustomed to winning. He studied law at the University of Oklahoma and joined the family firm, Champion, Champion and Wallace, in Ardmore, commuting from a townhouse in Dallas. The Chateaubriand restaurant in Dallas. Image – SJX composite/Wikimedia By all accounts, he was a punctual man, and his evenings ran on a schedule as fixed as anything at the Geneva Obse...

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

Seiko Time Sonar Casio has Aug 16, 2026

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal

The upcoming Casio MTP-E740-4AV and MTP-E740-2A1V are vintage-inspired watches launching soon for just £85. Proving that budget-friendly watches don’t have to be boring, these new releases feature a stunning see-through dial design that punches well above its price bracket. A Striking Translucent Dial Design The standout feature of the new MTP-E740 series is undoubtedly its dial. Drawing heavy inspiration from the classic 1970s Seiko Time Sonar, Casio has incorporated a transparent face that reveals the mechanical day and date wheels underneath.   Usually, entry-level Casio day-date models hide this calendar mechanism behind a solid face. By exposing it, Casio gives these models a playful, layered, and premium look that is rarely seen at this price point.   The Standout Models: Orange and Navy While the collection features several colors, two models steal the show:  MTP-E740-4AV (Orange):   if you want a watch that immediately catches the eye, the MTP-E740-4AV is the undisputed star of the collection. The bright orange colorway perfectly complements the retro-futuristic transparent dial, giving the watch a summery, high-energy feel. Orange dials have historically been associated with dive watches and motorsport chronographs, but putting it on an everyday stainless steel piece gives it a remarkably fresh vibe.  The bright, vibrant orange dial is an absolute head-turner. It provides a bold contrast against the stainless steel case and makes the exposed cal...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Aug 16, 2026

Buying Guide - Two-Tone Charm, with Five Effortlessly Cool Steel-and-Gold Watches

There are plenty of ways to stand out from the masses when it comes to watches. You can go for a bold design, a unique dial material, flashy colours or a mesmerising complication. Or you can opt for a combination of materials that brings together the coldness of stainless steel with the warmth of gold. […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Aug 16, 2026

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001

The introduction of the distinctly different-shaped Cubitus collection in October 2024 didn’t go unnoticed. Patek Philippe stated that the Cubitus collection’s mission is “to offer a new reinterpretation of the ‘elegant, sporty’ style” through a design in which the square bezel adopts rounded corners, “blending the square, the circle, and the octagon.” When you look at the basic […] Visit Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.

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W WristBuzz

WristBuzz

Is the Omega Constellation Observatory for me? Aug 16, 2026

Is the Omega Constellation Observatory for me?

Omega revived the Constellation with a pie-pan dial, dog-leg lugs, and a two-hand layout that is the first of its kind to earn Master Chronometer certification. Five dial colours, four case materials, prices from €10,700 to €58,200. Honest answer to whether it belongs on your wrist.

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T Teddy Baldassarre Videos

Teddy Baldassarre Videos

Aug 15, 2026

Most Impressive Watch Dials For the Money

When we talk about watches, of course we’re going to mention details like size, style, water resistance, and movements, but if we’re being honest, there’s nothing that immediately affects your perception of a watch like the dial. This is the face of the watch, usually the first thing you see, and it’s up to the dial to

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D Deployant

Deployant

Meistersinger Unitas 1Z Edition – Aug 15, 2026

MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition - a new dial variation in enamel

One hand specialist MeisterSinger releases a variant to their Unitas 1Z Edition - with a light blue enamel dial and decorated Unitas movement.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Chanel Aug 14, 2026

Review: the Sinn 544, a Tool Watch for Minimalists

Simple and sporty. That’s it. That’s the review. Well, sure, I can elaborate. Sinn likes to surprise us on occasion, and in the most Sinn way possible. Not by releasing something high-tech or with a ton of bells and whistles, though they occasionally do that, but rather by releasing something we didn’t realize we wanted as badly as we do. The U50 from 2020 is a great example of this. A simple concept, Sinn took their aggressive, modern dive watch design and shrunk it down to an easy-to-wear 41mm. It was a huge hit. Earlier this year, Sinn released the 544, a watch I don’t think any Sinn-head (not sure if that’s an expression) saw coming. Truly stripped down, the 544 is one of the cleanest expressions of Sinn’s no-nonsense, purpose-driven design philosophies. There is an expression I love that is attributed to Coco Chanel that goes like this: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” It’s a great ethos not just for attire, but all things design. With the 544, Sinn has nothing left to take off, and that’s part of its charm. With that said, there are actually two versions of the watch (technically more if you include strap options): the straightforward 544 and the 544 RS, which replaces the white seconds hand with a fluorescent red/orange (they say red, I see orange). So, basically, the fully reduced model, and the model that kept one thing on. Well, I lacked the restraint to request the pure 544 as that hand looked sexy, so ...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Aug 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026]

Earlier this week, we spiced things up a little by taking Hodinkee Happy Hour uptown to the Vandy Club. Before heading to the event space, guests arrived at the Watches of Switzerland One Vanderbilt showroom, where they were greeted by our Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, and other members of the Hodinkee team. This gave several attendees the chance to be featured in a quick Wrist Check we filmed, which you can check out now on the Hodinkee Instagram. It was our first time hosting at One Vanderbilt, but the same energy and enthusiasm quickly filled the room (and outdoor terrace). Hors d'oeuvres—and plenty of watches—made the rounds as an evening of great conversation unfolded. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night. If you made it out, thanks for coming. For anyone who couldn't make it, be sure to keep an eye here on the site and on the Hodinkee Instagram for more information, as we will be announcing our next one soon! Left, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys admiring an attendee's 2002 Omega Seamaster Professional Chrono Diver. Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Édition. A closer look. A 42mm Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale MN21 in titanium. A Rolex Oyster Precision Reference 6426. The Hermès H08 Limited Edition for Hodinkee. Left, Hodinkee Head of Video David Aujero chatting with chef Jayesh Kumar. From top to bottom: the Tudor Black Bay 58 Nike employee edition with a custom band and an Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary. A closer look at the Omega Sp...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko s work pretty consistently.  Aug 14, 2026

Seiko Introduces the HCC009, a New Presage Limited Edition Inspired by Bonsai

When this one came across my inbox earlier this week, it honestly took me by surprise. How is it, I thought to myself, that Seiko hadn’t already made a bonsai themed watch at one point or another?  Look, there are certainly dozens, if not hundreds, of Seiko releases over the years that are simply a blind spot for me, so it’s completely possible that they’ve done a bonsai watch in the past and I simply wasn’t aware of it. But doesn’t it seem like the most natural thing ever? Seiko, through their Presage collection, has long explored traditional Japanese craft techniques, and bonsai has to be among the most internationally recognizable and quintessentially Japanese of crafts. Bonsai is also connected to nature, another theme that runs through Seiko and Grand Seiko’s work pretty consistently.  The new HCC009 is a new limited edition in the Presage family made in partnership with Tradman’s Bonsai. Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015, and has a “ a mission to share the traditional Japanese art of bonsai with the world.” Since their inception, they’ve worked with collaborators in the fashion and art world in an effort to both preserve what’s important about traditional bonsai while simultaneously “redefining the concept of Japanese cool,” according to a press release.  The watch itself has a 38mm gold tone case and matching gold tone bracelet. The dial  is inspired by Japanese black pine bonsai when illuminated by the moon, and is rendered in mat...

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

IWC Dresses Aug 14, 2026

IWC Dresses the Big Pilot ProSet IW329603 in Black and Gold for 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz

IWC introduced the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet 140 Years Mercedes-Benz on August 13, 2026. Reference IW329603 is limited to 140 pieces, one for each year since the invention of the automobile in 1886. The anniversary edition combines a 42mm stainless steel case with a black-and-gold dial and IWC’s new ProSet perpetual calendar, which can be corrected both forward and backward. The limited IW329603 combines a 42mm steel case, black dial and gold details. Image: IWC. The dial is the best part I like the design, especially the dial. The glossy black surface gives the four subdials enough visual separation, while the solid gold appliqués and gold-plated hands make the display warmer without making it look gaudy. A white minute track keeps the outer edge clear. The date sits at 3 o’clock, the month at 6, the day at 9 and the Double Moon display at 12. A four-digit year window appears between 7 and 8 o’clock. The angled view shows the solid gold appliqués, gold-plated hands and four calendar subdials. Image: IWC. The brushed and polished steel case is 42mm wide and 14mm thick. It remains a substantial watch, especially on my 6.5-inch wrist, but these dimensions are easier to imagine wearing than the traditional oversized Big Pilot format. A convex sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the sapphire caseback carries the first joint Mercedes-Benz logo from 1926, combining the three-pointed star with a laurel wreath. That histori...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Casio n was Aug 13, 2026

Recap: Launching the Islander Saltaire Solar Diver with the Islander Watch Team at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom filled up fast as we welcomed our friends from Islander for the worldwide debut of the brand-new Islander Saltaire Solar Diver. All evening, the room buzzed with the particular energy that only a first-look launch can bring—the chance to be among the very first people anywhere to see, handle, and try on a watch that, until that night, most of the enthusiast world had only seen in renderings.   The Saltaire Solar Diver took center stage from the moment the doors opened. Displayed for the first time in the metal, the new release drew a steady crowd around the display trays, where attendees leaned in to study the dial textures, the case finishing, and the solar-powered movement that gives the watch its name. Being in the room for a debut like this is its own kind of experience; there’s a real difference between reading a spec sheet and feeling a watch land on your wrist for the first time, and the Showroom gave everyone the space to do exactly that. Adding to the occasion was the Islander Watch team themselves, on hand throughout the evening to talk through the new diver and answer every question the crowd could throw at them. Chief among them was the one and only Marc Frankel, whose brand leadership and enthusiasm for the community was on full display all night. Getting to hear directly from the people behind the watch, turned a launch into a genuine conversation between a brand and the enthusiasts who love it. Of co...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Ming next month Aug 13, 2026

The Seven Special Edition Watches Of Time+Tide's FounderFest

New watch season is right around the corner, and our friends at Time & Tide are among the first to move, thanks to not one but seven new watches arriving in September. The watches coincide with the launch of the brand's own watch fair, FounderFest, a show built around independent watchmaking and live music in equal measure. Rather than one exclusive location, FounderFest spans Time & Tide's three Watch Discovery Studios: New York (460 Broome St), Melbourne (178 Collins St), and London (Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street), running 19–20 September, with New York serving as the event's HQ, hosting founders, live interviews, and musical performances. I recently had the chance to see—and photograph—every new piece coming next month. The watches go up for sale globally on 22 September via thefounderfest.com, which will also host the festival online for anyone not on the ground in one of the three cities. Let's jump right in! AWAKE — Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf 'Ultraviolet' Awake may only be seven years old, but in that short time, word has spread quickly on the Sơn Mài and its lacquer dials. For those unfamiliar, these dials are built from layers of natural lacquer applied by hand to the dial surface, then carefully sanded back, worked, and reapplied, a process repeated until the desired depth, texture, and visual effect are met. For the 'Ultraviolet' edition, they've added pure silver-leaf gilding and natural purple and black pigments, resulting in pieces of silver s...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - FounderFest, Time+Tide’s Music-Inspired Collection of Seven Collaborative Watches

Over the past decade, Time+Tide has evolved from an Australian online watch publication into one of the influential platforms dedicated to watchmaking, and independent watchmaking in particular. Alongside its editorial content, the company has expanded into retail with its Watch Discovery Studios in Melbourne, London and New York. This year, the company is launching FounderFest, […]

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W WatchRider

WatchRider

Seiko Revisits Aug 13, 2026

Seiko Revisits the 1913 Laurel With New Enamel and Urushi Presage Models HCC005 and HCC006

Seiko has introduced two new Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship watches that return to one of the most important designs in its history. The HCC005J1 uses a handmade white enamel dial while the HCC006J1 takes a darker route with black Urushi lacquer and a yellow-gold-coloured case. Both were announced on 13 August 2026 and are scheduled to reach Seiko boutiques and selected retailers in September 2026. These are not simple colour changes. Each model uses a traditional Japanese dial technique and each has its own character. The white version is the clearer tribute to Seiko’s original Laurel wristwatch from 1913. The black model keeps the same basic layout but changes the mood completely through lacquer, gold details and a warm case finish. A Return to the 1913 Laurel The Laurel is important because it was Japan’s first wristwatch. Its white enamel dial, expressive Arabic numerals and red 12 became a clear visual signature. Seiko has used those details before, but the HCC005J1 brings them together in a convincing modern package. The red numeral at 12 immediately catches the eye while the curved black numerals and blue hands keep the design easy to recognise. The new watches also add a 24-hour display at six o’clock. It gives the dial a little more depth without disturbing the balance of the numerals. This is not an independently adjustable second-time-zone function. It follows the main time and shows whether the watch is indicating the first or second half of the day...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Albishorn Just Expanded Aug 13, 2026

Albishorn Just Expanded its Marinagraph Collection With Two Ultra-Classic Colorways

It wouldn’t be summer without a proper skin diver or regatta timer, or how about both? Roughly one year ago, we got the latest reimagining from Albishorn, giving us a mash up of two seafaring classics with the brand’s signature vintage-inspired spin. The result was the Marinagraph, originally offered in two colors, one with a sunburst black dial with lume-filled applied silver indices called the “Classic Racing” and one with a bolder sunburst Paraíba tourmaline green dial with lume-filled black indices called the “Paraíba Racing.” The Classic Racing variant got its own pops of color with green accents on the bezel along with a red strap highlighting the red accents seen across both versions in the chronograph hand, tide indicator, regatta timer, and model name printed beneath the brand name in retro script. Needless to say, the debut duo of Marinagraph Classics offered an audacious combination of styling and functionality. This summer, Albishorn presents another pair of colors to join the collection, this time with a slightly more classic and sober design, aptly named the Classic Fume and simply the Classic. As a refresher, the foundation of the Marinagraph design draws inspiration from the America’s Cup crews, in particular those in the race’s renaissance. The 1958 edition marked the race’s return after a long hiatus post-war, and one of the standout vessels was Columbia, the American yacht representing the New York Yacht Club. This vessel notably feat...

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D Deployant

Deployant

IWC celebrates 140 years Aug 13, 2026

IWC celebrates 140 years of Innovation with Mercedes-Benz

IWC releases a new Big Pilot's Watch to celebrate Mercedes-Benz's 140 years of innovation. This novelty features a Perpetual calendar with Proset.

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