Hodinkee
Business News: U.S. Steel Watch Shortage Good For Gold
U.S. retail sales of gold watches rose 19% in value in the first half of 2019, according to the NPD Group.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI - “Titanium Inverse”
Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so
Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vintage inspiration in a modern package - the Rado Captain Cook 45mm
Editor’s note: Rado’s star is firmly in ascendance these days, and that’s thanks to watches like their popular Captain Cook Reissue. And while we’ve got a whole lot of love for the smaller versions, sometimes - no matter what people say - size does matter. So, how about 45mm of Rado Captain Cook goodness? Rado’s … ContinuedThe post Vintage inspiration in a modern package – the Rado Captain Cook 45mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out?
When a name renowned for its personalisation of higher-end pieces announces an off-the-shelf offering, it tends to raise eyebrows. However, the Bamford brand has defied expectations not once, but twice, now with the Bamford London GMT. Housing the self-winding Sellita SW330-1 25, it has already been widely pointed out that the Bamford GMT case and … ContinuedThe post Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Michel Perchin Watch in “Drapery” Enamel
Best known as a maker of ultra high-end fountain pens, Michel Perchin is named after one of the workshop directors of Faberge, the legendary jeweller of Imperial Russia famed for the lavish annual Easter Eggs produced for the Tsar. Amongst Faberge’s signature creations were incredible enamelled objects of all sorts finished in brilliantly coloured translucent enamel. The modern day Michel Perchin pens were decorated in the same style, and though the pen business is now defunct, the founder of the brand, Patrick Pinkston, has revived the name to produce a watch similarly decorated in fired enamel. Produced mostly in England but powered by a Swiss movement, the Michel Perchin watch is large, rectangular and decorated with vitreous enamel and diamonds – an aesthetic that’s not for everyone but impressively crafted, albeit at a steep price. The highlight is the “drapery” motif on the dial, that consists of a drapery guilloche engraved by a traditional, hand-operated rose engine, which is then covered in pale blue enamel. Three brilliant cut diamonds form the quarter hour markers, while a solid gold appliqué of the Michel Perchin elephant logo marks 12 o’clock The enamel is done the traditional way by a craftsman in England who first grinds the enamel powder with a mortar and pestle, then adds water or oil to create the mixture that can be painted onto the case surface. The case is then fired to set the enamel, and the process repeated to build up several layers...
Hodinkee
Business News: Hong Kong Turmoil Dampened First-Half Swiss Watch Sales
Global exports through June rose just 1.4% in value versus the first six months of 2018.
Time+Tide
Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch?
One of the most random, and awesome watches to emerge from the briny depths of Baselworld was the (very) limited edition Doxa SUB 200 T. On the surface this is a pretty standard vintage reissue, with a big 43mm case in that classic cushion shape, with that classic orange dial, in a dual register layout … ContinuedThe post Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Theo Auffret Introduces the Tourbillon à Paris
A winner at last year’s Young Talent Competition organised by F.P. Journe, Theo Auffret was one of three watchmakers in their twenties recognised for outstanding horological achievement. Now 24 years old, Mr Auffret’s award-winning entry for the competition was the Tourbillon à Paris, which has now been refined, perfected, and turned into a souscription edition of five watches for Mr Auffret to raise the money needed to establish his own workshop. Like fellow up-and-coming watchmakers Remy Cools and Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Mr Auffret graduated from Lycée Polyvalent Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France. The school has been prolific in turning out talented watchmakers, many of whom exhibit a flavour of 19th century pocket watch movements in their creations. The front of the Tourbillon à Paris Hand-made in Paris Mr Auffret’s final stop in his watchmaking education was a stint at Ateliers 7h38, the complications workshop led by Luca Soprana that’s best known for its work on the Jacob & Co. Astronomia. He spent a year there, working on the recently launched Astronomia Maestro Minute Repeater. But the formative years of his education were spent with Jean-Bapiste Viot. The Tourbillon à Paris is strongly influenced by Mr Auffret’s time as an apprentice at the Paris workshop of Mr Viot, well regarded for his quirky, distinctive wristwatch. Like Mr Viot, the young watchmaker relied only on pen and paper to design and construct the prototype of...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002
In the Rolex sports watch hall of fame, the GMT-Master II is arguably the most practical. It is a relatively affordable, dual time zone watch; and there are, after all, more people who travel than those who dive or race or sail. At the same time, the GMT-Master has always been available in precious metal, in 18k Everose for instance, and also lavishly bejewelled like the popular sapphire and ruby “SARU”. The new meteorite dial GMT-Master II, on the other hand, is bling meets functionality without the gemstones, making it an unusual and compelling watch. And it’s also the first time Rolex has used meteorite in a watch other than the Daytona or Day-Date. In fact, the meteorite GMT-Master probably the most practical ultra-luxe travel watch out there. And it costs only about US$1600 over the standard white gold GMT-Master with a blue dial, making it a worthwhile upgrade. Maybe “Pan Am” Rolex has not revealed what inspired the meteorite GMT-Master, but the GMT-Master “Pan Am” or “Albino” is obvious. Reputedly made in small numbers for executives at Pan American Airways – the company credited for the creation of the GMT-Master – the GMT-Masters fitted with white dials are either the refs. 6542 or 1675. A handful are known and have sold for well into six figures, but the white dial examples are controversial and often accompanied by unending questions as to whether they are legit. A jewel of a watch In contrast, the modern day equivalent of...
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 81: TGN Film Club 2
Ten more amazing films for the little bits of the summer that you actually want to spend on the couch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Avion Review (AW1361-10H): Pilot Watch At A Killer Price
You too can “fly” through the hills thinking you’re Chuck Yeager with very little investment needed. All you need to do is find yourself a Citizen Avion AW1361-10H!
Revolution
Povey’s Picks - Christie’s Rare Watches Geneva May 2019
Ross Povey presents some of the highlights among the impressive range of watches that Christie’s has assembled for its May 2019 sale.
Time+Tide
This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch
Editor’s note: It’s slender, but it weighs a lot. It’s gold, but it doesn’t look like it. I just can’t get the Bulgari Octo Finissimo in rose gold out of my head. And that’s even factoring in the epic new black ceramic version we saw at Basel. Seriously, will someone spot me $60K? The story in … ContinuedThe post This Bulgari is the anti-gold gold watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Live from Baselworld 2019: Chopard
Chopard continues to focus on the LUC. Lots of novelties. Here is a quick run down of the highlights. LUC Flying T Twin. First flying and the first automatic tourbillon from Chopard. 7.2mm thick. Twin barrel 65 hours. With stop tourbillon. CHF 115,000. LE 50. Rose gold. LUC XP. Savile Row inspired with strap fromRead More
Deployant
Breaking news: Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Linited Edition. Price: CHF 32000
Just breaking. We are preparing the full release. Come back in an hour to read the full details. Here: just a glimpse.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #114 Watch Photography Part 2
The guys are returning to talking about Watch Photography! It's been a long time since the topic has come up on air and needless to say the guys have a lot more to say on the subject. From gear, the photography rat race, and the general weirdness of choosing to focus on only photographing watches, this week's show is a good one.
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Elegante by FP Journe
The watch has a very useful complication. It is equipped with a motion sensor. When the watch is still for 35 mins, the hands stop. And will revert to the correct time after motion is detected. New this year, in grade 5 titanium. Two versions 40mm (CHF 12,400 set w 2 rows of diamonds) andRead More
Revolution
SIHH 2019: Back to Business for H. Moser & Cie
A change of tempo from the pranks it has pulled in recent times, the Swiss independent decided to go easy on the disruption and unveils some beauties.
Deployant
New: Casio Baby-G 25th Anniversary Replica
Casio celebrates the Baby-G's 25th anniversary with the reissue of a replica of the original. Full details and specifications.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Pancor Watch P02 Review and My Kickstarter Buying Experience
I found the Pancor Watches P02 and I fell in love with it. This watch called to me for a three reasons: (1) It had a hi-beat movement. All of the watches I had experienced up to this point were 21.6k beats per hour, and I yearned for a smoother sweep; (2) it was black PVD and I thought that was awesome; (3) And the power reserve reminded me of that elusive Tudor North Flag.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Which Panerai Submersible is right for you?
At its heart, Panerai is about diving. The brand was born under the waves and continues to call the underwater world home. Which is why we found ourselves, several weeks ago, watching - slightly nervously - as a brace of Panerai Submersibles dipped into a giant tank full of rays, sharks and other (less threatening) fish … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Which Panerai Submersible is right for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Traveling with Watches: An Horologists’ Survival Guide
Traveling with watches can be nerve-racking. Questions and concerns race through the mind. It does not have to be this way. It should be easy and fun regardless of your horological budget, tastes, and risk tolerances.
Time+Tide
NEWS: Imagine finding this in your pocket - Longines discover their oldest watch to date
There are few brands that take as much pride in their heritage as Longines. Not surprising, really, when you consider that the winged hourglass brand pioneered the way for the reissue. In fact, the Saint-Imier manufacturer is so proud of their history that their own museum is home to more than 10,000 historic pieces, while … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Imagine finding this in your pocket – Longines discover their oldest watch to date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Release: GoS Watches Sarek Akka (price and specs)
GoS Watches made from hand forged from Damascus steel releases a new addition their Sarek collection - the Sarek Akka in uncoloured steel.
Deployant
The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Review of the new Breitling Premier Collection - B01 Automatic Chronograph with in-house movement. With high res pics, specs and prices.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Brew Watches Review: HP-1 Automatic
The Brew Watches HP-1 case has aesthetics that are so pleasing because the soft square is something that we are already familiar with. We are seeing a rise in square watch cases in response to the design language of smartwatches. The case dimensions of the HP-1 are 38x38mm, strikingly similar to an Apple Watch.
Deployant
New with hands-on review: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Lumen live photos, price, specs
A. Lange & Söhne adds lume to the popular and iconic Datograph with the latest introduction: the Datograph Up/Down Lumen.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: It all started with a Big Bang! Now Hublot’s hero is a bit smaller
Editor’s note: Hublot’s heart beats to the rhythm of the in-house Unico movement. So it makes sense that their centrepiece collection, the Big Bang - with its heavily open-worked dial - is where the Art of Fusion brand shows it off. This year, they slimmed down the dimensions of their 2010-born Unico HUB 1242 movement, dubbing it … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: It all started with a Big Bang! Now Hublot’s hero is a bit smaller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Sun and sea combined - the Seiko Prospex ‘Save The Ocean’ SSC675P
What do whales, chronographs and solar charging have in common? And no, I’m not talking about a hypothetical scheme involving Elon Musk, and the launching of an around the world race, with solar-powered propellers attached to specially trained whales. Cool as that may be – although probably not humane – all three things become one in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Sun and sea combined – the Seiko Prospex ‘Save The Ocean’ SSC675P appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.