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Hanhart’s Long Awaited Preventor HD12 Worn & Wound
Casio n Sep 11, 2024

Hanhart’s Long Awaited Preventor HD12

While it can often feel like the watch industry today is an arms race of sorts to see who can come out with the best, brightest, and flashiest, it’s a nice respite to see a watch that is built with simplicity in mind. That, to me, is embodied in the Hanhart Preventor HD12, the newest reference from the German brand. While the name Preventor may sound like a prescription I took while I was single, it is, in fact, a successor to the already-established Pioneer model from Hanhart. You can see elements such as the stripped-down dial and case shared between the collections. While the Pioneer models may have promoted simplicity within the brand, it’s the Preventor which has shown restraint.  With a decidedly Spartan design, the decoration on this watch is in the hands and the use of the vintage-style Hanhart logo, making this a distraction-free watch that isn’t running the risk of being overdesigned. At its core, this watch is meant to be a daily wearer, able to blend in with whatever outfit or occasion and that means all the bells and whistles are reserved for, say, Hanhart’s Primus collection.  Customers can choose between a black or blue dial, both a cohesive design choice against the 39 mm steel case. And about that steel, I’d be remiss to not mention the HD12 steel used, for which the Preventor was named after. This particular steel is created through introducing carbon into the stainless steel alloy, which in turn increases the hardness of the case’s surface ...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches Sep 8, 2024

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste

One of my most memorable meetings during Watches and Wonders earlier this year was with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni. This very charismatic watch CEO was impeccably dressed, talking about the history of fashion and how the new Toric collection was designed with today’s sartorialists in mind. Terreni is glad that menswear is getting attention […] Visit The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste to read the full article.

First Look – The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80, now with Gradient Dials or in Full Forged Carbon Monochrome
Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80, now with Gradient Dials or in Full Forged Carbon

One of the Swiss watch industry’s main successes from recent years, and Tissot‘s star collection, the PRX range has become a true hit since its inaugural release in 2021. Since then, this collection has been drastically enlarged to offer more movements, more colours, more materials, more straps and more dimensions. While we thought the mint […]

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years Sep 5, 2024

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R

Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka. Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock. The SBGA499 Initial thoughts I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train. The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general. The SBGY035 That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which pro...

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix In A Rose Gold And Black Tuxedo-Like Outfit Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Aug 28, 2024

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix In A Rose Gold And Black Tuxedo-Like Outfit

When you think of Vacheron Constantin, the Fiftysix might not be the first watch you associate with the brand. Models like the 222 and the Overseas will probably come to mind first. However, like those, the Fiftysix is based on one of Vacheron Constantin’s true heritage pieces. Besides, it receives the same attention to detail […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix In A Rose Gold And Black Tuxedo-Like Outfit to read the full article.

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret References Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials

The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC Fratello
Urwerk EMC SR-71 - Aug 23, 2024

Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC

Let me take you back to 2014. This is the year that “Gangnam Style” reaches two billion views on YouTube and Luis Suarez bites an opponent at the World Cup. Did I refresh your memory? You would be forgiven if the 2014 GPHG award winners occupied a less prominent place in your mind. Let me […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk EMC SR-71 - A 10th-Anniversary Edition Of The Innovative EMC to read the full article.

Portrait – David Candaux, An Independent Watchmaker with the Soul of the Vallée de Joux Monochrome
Aug 23, 2024

Portrait – David Candaux, An Independent Watchmaker with the Soul of the Vallée de Joux

Independent watchmaking has been on the rise over the past 20 years, and for good reason. Independent watchmakers are guided by passion and personal perspectives, leading to authentic creations and often crafted to a level unattainable in mass production. David Candaux’s motto, “Le Coeur et l’Esprit” (the heart and mind), perfectly captures this philosophy. Raised […]

[Video] Review: the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver When Aug 14, 2024

[Video] Review: the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

When I write reviews, I find myself bucketing watches into two distinct categories. The first of these is home to watches that feel like they’re meant for a different version of me, if not a different collector altogether. These are the watches that, whether I love them or not, I’d be hard-pressed to really see as part of my day-to-day life - at least as my life exists now. The other bucket is where watches like the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver live. This is the bucket for the watches that seem to hit right in my wheelhouse - the watches that seem like they were purpose-built to appeal to me (and possibly to my wallet). The minute I saw the press release for the Defy Extreme Diver, I knew it sat in this second bucket, and I knew I needed to spend some time with it, if not for a review, then certainly to consider whether this watch was one I needed in my life. Fortunately, I didn’t have to wait all too long, and after a couple of weeks with the Defy Extreme Diver on my wrist I can easily confirm what at first I only suspected - it is very, very good. There’s an inherent irony that comes along with the very concept of a luxury tool watch. The tension between building a rugged tool watch ready to tackle the world’s most demanding environments and building a high-end luxury product is palpable. To make a watch that straddles those two worlds without looking too much like a Submariner is even harder.  With the Defy Extreme Diver, Zenith has managed to make somethi...

Hands-On: the Victorinox Dive Pro Worn & Wound
Victorinox Dive Pro When I Aug 13, 2024

Hands-On: the Victorinox Dive Pro

When I think of Victorinox, only one thing comes to mind: their iconic Swiss Army knife. Growing up in the scout program, I thought that a Swiss Army knife was the coolest thing ever, even if I couldn’t find one with the perfect tool set. Years later I’ve come to learn that Victorinox has an impressive line of products, ranging from iconic multi-tools, travel gear, fragrances, and of course, watches. When the Dive Pro landed on my desk, I was quite intrigued with its angular design and rugged appearance. Throughout this review, we’ll take a look at the technical specs and ultimately my opinion on the watches in general. The Dive Pro line from Victorinox is an extension of their dive watch offering with eight new references, bringing an increased depth rating of 300 meters, new case materials, and some bold colorways. While all of the new Dive Pro watches feature a 43mm case, faceted unidirectional bezels, and sapphire crystals, you have the option of two case materials: 316L Stainless Steel and Grade 2 Titanium. I feel that both of these materials were carefully selected for their unique properties they bring to the table. While titanium is a lighter material with more inherent corrosion resistance, these benefits come at a cost, literally. Stainless steel provides slightly less corrosion resistance but can be machined much easier allowing the material to be manufactured to the same quality at a cheaper price. Depending on the environments you expect to dive in, you ...

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2024

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade

The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Seiko s high-end line offering Aug 9, 2024

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, a brand that began as Seiko‘s high-end line, offering timepieces crafted from precious metals. Today, Credor is renowned for its commitment to superior craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility, which is evident in every aspect of its watches, from design to the intricate movements made up of countless minute […]

Checking out the Mubadala Citi DC Open with Rado Worn & Wound
Rado Some people if you Aug 8, 2024

Checking out the Mubadala Citi DC Open with Rado

Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...

Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko Fratello
Rolex MilSub.” Aug 4, 2024

Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko

This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.” The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, […] Visit Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko to read the full article.

#TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666 Fratello
Zodiac Autographic Ref 666 According Aug 1, 2024

#TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666

According to an early ’50s print ad for the Zodiac Autographic ref. 666, “No motorist would buy a car without a petrol gauge.” It’s amusing but true, I can’t help but think it’s such a witty way to put a bug (or watch) in your mind. Zodiac stole my heart a few times in the […] Visit #TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666 to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Jul 29, 2024

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability

Forget about thinness and vintage designs. Today’s watch is aggressively cool, impressively technical and not meant to slip under a cuff. It’s a proper dive instrument with a bold design that’s here to make an impressive. And it did so, not only underwater but also on the silver screen, as the Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO appeared […]

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Jul 29, 2024

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ

It’s the ultimate question: Which watch should I take with me when traveling? To see how the Zenith Chronomaster Sport held up, we took it to New Zealand on an adventure to answer this question! One of the things that goes through my mind when looking at a potential watch purchase is, is it good for travel? Now I’m not talking about watches with GMT functions or watches that are specifically designed to track multiple time zones like a Worldtimer etc. These are great, but not essential. I’ve traveled lots without a specific watch like a GMT. What I’m more interested in is this: Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places and seeing new sights, and the last one that goes through my mind (a side effect of doing what I do) how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? Ok, the last one is a little more specific to me, but you get my gist! Now I’m a bit of a sucker for a green dial. I use to gravitate towards blue, but these days, I’m liking watches with more colour, or something that isn’t your standard blue or black. Don’t get me wrong, both of these colours are great, but if you have a few watches that are blue or black, then you kind of want to venture out of this box a little. With this in mind, I’ve managed to get my hands on the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green that was re...

Annual Calendar Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 26, 2024

Annual Calendar Watches Guide

Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Jul 25, 2024

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair

If you’ve never had the pleasure of attending a Windup Watch Fair in person, it’s hard to express the energy in the room or the unavoidable concentration of enthusiasm that greets you when you step through the doors. From the moment the show opens on Friday to the minute it closes on Sunday, every Windup is a marathon of excited conversation, new friends, and constant discovery - all bound by a vague sense of risk, a sense that (if you should stop and stare for a little too long) you may be walking out of Windup with something new tucked away in your bag and a slightly lighter wallet. Of course, for all their similarities, no two Windups are the same. The character of each host city plays a huge part in this - it’s hard to quantify the difference between a bay-side view in San Francisco in May and a downtown October day in New York City - but throw in different brands, different people, different venues, and (possibly most importantly) different watches and you’ll find that every Windup comes with the distinct chance to surprise. So, to that end, with a few days between me and the end of Windup Chicago 2024, I thought I would take a moment to fill you in on some of the watches and moments that surprised me at this summer’s hottest watch fair. NATO’s Don’t Need Holes It seems like a fitting place to start this endeavor would be with the only booth at Windup Chicago that got me to pull out my wallet not once, but twice. Like so many of us, I go absolutely...

Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue Fratello
Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Jul 25, 2024

Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue

One year ago, I went hands-on with the then-new Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date collection. Two versions of the newly sized Ahoi debuted then, one in clear Sky blue and the other in beautiful Sand gold. The introduction of those two new models also meant the discontinuation of the 40mm Ahoi. That meant a larger Ahoi […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case Fratello
Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case

Designing anything, including watches, is an iterative process. You move from one design to another, and every time, you get a bit closer to what you had in mind. I’m not a designer, but Emmanuel Dietrich, who founded the Dietrich brand in 2010, is. When you look at his previous designs, you can see that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case to read the full article.

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? Fratello
Tudor ? - Jul 18, 2024

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.