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Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet Mineral Blue: The Weekend Weapon Gets a Color Upgrade
The Ultra-Cermet sports chronograph returns in a Mineral Blue colorway that's hard to ignore
Results for Type XX
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Type XX Breguet
The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
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Baltic Scalegraph: The Vintage Racing Chronograph Gets a Permanent Home and Three Fresh Dials
Champagne, blue, and grey join an updated case, making the Scalegraph Baltic's most refined chronograph yet
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Grand Seiko Refreshes the Entire Evolution 9 Collection With New Bracelets, a Micro-Adjust Clasp, and the Spring Drive UFA Calibre
Nine new references, a better bracelet, and the Spring Drive UFA making its way into classic Evo9 cases. Here's what actually changed.
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J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant: The Monopusher Chronograph Goes Public
California's most interesting independent brings its first complication to the open market, wrapped in tantalum
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Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin Boutique Exclusive: The Blue Fumé Edition Is the Best-Looking Manhattan Yet
A boutique-exclusive drop pairs Maen's slimmest integrated-bracelet watch with a blue fumé Côtes de Genève dial that punches well above its price.
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The Watches the World Cup 2026 Players Are Actually Wearing
Ronaldo brought a Rainbow Daytona. Messi pulled out an off-catalog Day-Date with a turquoise dial. Casemiro is the surprise of the bunch with an F.P. Journe. Here's every wrist worth talking about from the tournament so far.
WristBuzz
The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Is Back, Smaller, Cheaper, and Here to Stay
Doxa's beloved dive chronograph returns as a permanent collection piece, with a tighter case and a price that actually makes sense
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Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, Now With 70 Days of Reserve
The most clever perpetual calendar in the business just got a meaningful upgrade, and it's still only 41 mm
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Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition: The Restrained One
Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.
WristBuzz
MB&F; HM12 The Guardian: The Robot Watch That Actually Transforms
MB&F;'s twelfth Horological Machine is a flying-tourbillon wristwatch that docks inside a 15 kg, nearly 400 mm tall transforming robot companion, and only 36 will ever exist
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Rolex Datejust Green Ombré Lacquer Dials: The Quiet Hit of Watches and Wonders
Rolex's first fully lacquered ombré dial lands on the Datejust 36 and 41. The references involved, how the dial is built, and why this one keeps selling out before it lands in display cases.
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Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Big Crown Pointer Date: The Iron Horse Gets His Watch
2,130 pieces, Yankee pinstripes on the dial, and a cause worth supporting, all wrapped around one of Oris's most iconic movements
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The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Collection: Steel, 36mm, and a Blue Enamel Killer
Last year's 50th-anniversary limited becomes a four-watch core collection. Two new 36mm references, a 39mm steel-and-enamel halo piece, and the in-house GP4800 in every case.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Spotting And Highlights From The Vancouver Timepiece Show
Held on the mountainous slope of Vancouver's North Shore, the Vancouver Timepiece Show offered its second-ever installment this past April. The event offers a true enthusiast-driven platform for a variety of value-driven brands and is part of a now three-show-strong portfolio for Canada's Timepiece Shows, spanning Vancouver, Toronto, and, later this month, Montreal for the first-ever appearance. Less than a week after the big show in Geneva ended, I hopped on a plane and flew to Vancouver for a very different type of watch show. Held in a bright and airy space in The Shipyards of North Van, the Vancouver show evolved this year, with fewer brands showing but attendance up by about 20%, to roughly 3,000 people over the weekend. A smaller, more casual show than the Toronto event held in September, the Vancouver Timepiece Show reflects the local watch scene while attracting brands and attendees from a much wider range. Scroll on for highlights from the brands at the show and a good handful of local watch-spotting. A pastel Halios Seaforth with the 12-hour bezel. Very Vancouver. Some Marathon wares glowing under UV light. The newly released Marathon CeraShell Navigator evolves a 40-year-old classic with a new case material that offers improved bezel performance, conventional springbars (vs. fixed), and a lighter weight on the wrist. Micromilspec continues to impress with versions of their multi-talented Milgraph, seen here as a special 75-piece version called "Proj...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida
One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece. This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades. The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe. Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer
Phillips’s upcoming sale The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII is packed with spectacular watches, including some already well known to collectors like the extra complicated La Royale by Louis Audemars, an unsual Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, and the Golay Fils & Stahl astronomical watch. But among the finest is a simple watch that tracks only the time and state of wind, yet is comprised of several hundred parts: Victor Kullberg No 6583. Behind those three hands is a one-minute tourbillon equipped with an Earnshaw detent escapement, a massive free-sprung compensation balance, anti-magnetic helical balance spring and reverse chain and fusee, making it one of the most elaborate three-hand watches imaginable. Even at its high estimate of US$102,000, this pocket chronometer amounts to something of a steal, especially in an auction where multiple steel sports watches carry much greater estimates. The cult of the chronometer Swiss and English horologists disagreed on a great many things, from the ideal shape and material of escape wheels to the definition of a chronometer. To the Swiss, the title of chronometer was bestowed based on merit as a timekeeper. Any watch could be one if it kept good time, especially with a trusted, independent attestation of its accuracy. Watches submitted to observatory trials — or tested according to the ISO 3159:2009 standard today — are chronometers by this reckoning. England was dominated by the cult of the [marine] chronometer, unsurprisin...
Worn & Wound
Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases
The Cartier appointment at Watches & Wonders this year was, as always, a dizzying experience. The incredible breadth of the collection is unlike anything you’ll see at Palexpo during Watches & Wonders week, and it always amazes me how freely these incredibly valuable, intricate creations are freely passed around a table of watch media types to handle, photograph, and try on. It would be absolutely impossible to run down everything we were shown in our meeting, but I keep coming back to a selection of releases that zero in on Cartier’s unique bracelet making capabilities. This is not something I normally expect from Cartier, but maybe I should. I think for the most part we recognize Cartier as masters of design and shape – there have been so many great case designs over the brand’s history it’s impossible to recount them all here. Some have become genuinely iconic and some have been a bit lost to history, but their ingenuity and creativity is second to none and they have the reputation they deserve as a design first brand for good reason. In our mind’s eye, collectively, we typically see these watches on straps. But for certain references a bracelet is key to understanding not just the visual design language, but in how these watches wear. Because a great bracelet doesn’t complete the look of a watch, it makes or breaks the experience of having it on your wrist, and can take a watch from being a beautiful design object to something you’d actually want to...
Worn & Wound
The New Spring Novelties from Fears
Revitalized British brand Fears has made many waves in the independent watch scene in recent years, building a reputation for vintage-inspired timepieces backed by robust modern movements, and distinctive styling. Now, Fears releases their first pilot’s watch in 180 years, alongside several new iterations of core collection favorites, to round out a slate of spring novelties that carry forward the brand’s unique combination of youthful innovation and historically-informed aesthetics. First up is that pilot watch: named for Filton, a town neighboring the Fears homebase in Bristol that is largely known for housing the Bristol Aeroplane Company, the Brunswick 40 ‘Filton’ aims to capture the adventurous air of early flight. The Filton sits within the Brunswick 40mm line, giving it a recognizable silhouette with added functionality. A date window at 6 o’clock introduces the complication to the Brunswick 40 line for the first time, and the Raven Black sunburst and Squadron Green gradient dial options evoke cockpit instruments and vintage squadron markings respectively. Applied numerals in Fears’ own ‘Edwin’ typeface hammer home the early 20th century look, with a triangle at 12 o’clock to promote legibility. Sword pipette hands round out the design, with the Raven Black model also featuring a “ghost effect’ with matching black hand centers. Inside, a reliable La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber movement beats away, and the Filton sits on a chocolate brown...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth
Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019. Initial thoughts The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms. This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019. The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience. According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler - who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal p...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The Mighty Lola T70 Returns, As Both A Race- And Road-Legal Recreation
If ever you have attended historic racing events, it’s very likely you’ve heard the thunderous bellow of the mighty Lola T70. This mid-1960s prototype sports car was a formidable foe to the likes of Ferrari, Ford, Porsche and so on. It was built by Lola Cars in the UK and was typically fitted with American-sourced […]
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: A New Era for Independent Watchmaking
It’s been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn’t even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi’s first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it’s worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category. The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled the Type 11 with its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that’s not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs - Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double ‘mystery’ displays. New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Worn & Wound
Review: the G-SHOCK DW-5600MNC with FIDLOCK Clasp
G-SHOCK enthusiasts everywhere will be happy to hear that Casio has embraced a DW-5600 mod that has been popular for years – and it’s slated to hit international markets in the very near future. The new G-SHOCK DW-5600MNC series sees our favorite square swapping out its classic resin strap for a comfortable cloth option with a magnetic twist. For this update, G-SHOCK has partnered with FIDLOCK, a company known for its easy-to-operate fasteners featuring neodymium magnets, to give a boost to the original DW-5600 strap – typically considered by some owners to be a weak point when it comes to all-day wear. FIDLOCK’s technology has found a home in EDC and modding communities, with its most popular contributions outfitting backpacks, water bottle mounts, and even bike helmets. The marriage of these two brands intends to provide users a new type of wearing experience that melds all-day comfort with the practicality we know and love. However, the chasm that exists between the lofty ambition of this release and the end product is one that could damage even the toughest of G-SHOCKs. I spent a week getting hands-on with the new DW-5600MNC series and attempting to understand the point of this questionable update. Before I begin, it’s worth noting for context that G-SHOCK appears in my personal collection more than any other brand. Its tactical aesthetic might be an acquired taste to some, but it’s one I gravitate to readily. When I want a watch I don’t have to think a...
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery
Konstantin Chaykin unveils the ultimate version of his ultra-thin opus, the ThinKing Mystery. A 12-piece limited edition that refines the ideas from his original prototype, the ThinKing has reached maturity. The fact that Mr Chaykin achieved this without the help of big-budget research and developments facilities is a testament to the Moscow-based watchmaker’s technical prowess. The thoughtful process of updating the ThinKing platform prior to commercialisation speaks highly of his engineering rigour. Initial thoughts We covered the first ThinKing prototype when it launched two years ago in the fall of 2024. The timepiece remains to this day the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring just 1.65 mm from top to case back. A staggering 1.65 mm thickness. The ThinKing implemented a number of interesting mechanical choices and made some compromises to fit an entire timekeeper to fit in a meagre 1.65 mm-thick space. Like other ultra-thin record-chasers, the case doubles as the movement mainplate, making the ThinKing, in a sense, a raw movement bound to a strap. To reduce the height of the oscillator, its components were spread out horizontally. The barrel was rethought to incorporate a click wheel inside the mainspring arbour, shaving precious height. The first prototype was cheating a little too, since it could not be set or wound without a separate docking module called the Palanking. Compared to other ultra-thin watches, which require (at most) a pen-like winding and...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A Legend is Born: Squale Just Dropped a New 37mm Diver
If you have been following us for a while, you are likely well versed in Squale’s divers, vintage-inspired designs, and limited edition runs. The brand has quietly been a leader in the realm of dive watches since the 60s with a cult following from hardcore dive watch nerds. In the past decade in particular, Squale has been getting more and more traction and recognition. In 2019, the brand notched its 60th anniversary and with that, introduced a new collection: the Sub-39. This limited edition fittingly paid homage to Squale’s early 1960s divers, using an original prototype with a 39mm case as reference. Following its success, the brand ultimately made the Sub-30 a permanent collection, upping the ante with COSC-certification and complications like a GMT. Today, we get the next evolution with the Sub-37 Legend. Focusing on the brand’s core tenants – proportions, function, and character – the new slightly sized down 37mm diver emphasizes form over function in a way that is faithful to the golden age of diving, an era when watches were designed to perform rather than to impress. Beginning with the dial, you have a fairly quintessential execution in matte black with a sapphire glass-box crystal reminiscent of vintage plexiglass while ensuring durability and optimal dial legibility. Visibility remains at the forefront of this utilitarian design with both the dial and hands treated with SuperLumiNova Old Radium. Framing the dial is a clean, highly readable unidirection...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 True GMT
Christopher Ward’s releases basically fall into two categories for me. There are the watches that the brand clearly intends to have broad appeal across a wide segment of the watch market. This is really most of their watches. Think of the Sealander and Trident collections, and indeed most of the Twelves, and you have watches that are very well made and attractive but not exactly groundbreaking. Then there’s the Loco, the Bel Canto, and some of their more experimental pieces that play with aventurine and sapphire dial elements. These watches veer into the avant-garde and serve as showcases for what Christopher Ward is capable of at a higher (but still very fair) price point. I’ll admit, I’m partial to the latter, and less interested in the former. The Loco and Bel Canto in particular really demonstrate Christopher Ward’s ambition to be more than just a former maker of homage watches. These watches fully escape the brand’s roots. Their latest release, the C63 True GMT, sits somewhere in the middle. Built on the Sealander platform, the new True GMT is exactly what it says on the tin: a sporty multi-time zone watch with an independently jumping local hour hand. A “true” travel GMT, offering significantly more use while on the move between time zones than a “caller GMT,” still the standard for this type of watch under about $5,000. What makes this watch special is that it represents nearly as much movement innovation and development as the brand’s more...
Worn & Wound
Farer Launches their Cushion Case in a Smaller Size
Ever since I got the results back from a DNA test I sent off to Ancestry, I’ve become something of an unrepentant Anglophile. That doesn’t mean I’ve covered my walls in Union Jacks or suddenly embraced everything coming out of Britain (I still think The Beatles are just okay). But even so, I do have a bit of a soft spot for all things English – and you can include Farer in that mix. Farer has long been a watchmaker that I’ve admired, not least of all because there’s a good chance that anyone on their payroll and I are related (it is a rather tiny island). In reality, Farer has built a brand on two pillars which have made it undeniably eye-catching: a keen sense of color and a suite of watch types for anyone’s personal preference. And with the release of their latest 35mm Cushion Case collection, we see both of these qualities in action. The new models build on the cushion-shaped case Farer first introduced in 2022, but bring the design into a smaller format. Measuring 35mm across and just 10mm thick, the new collection has had some design changes to better suit the updated diminutive size. Subtle adjustments to the case architecture give the design a slightly sharper and more contemporary feel. The bezel now slopes more dramatically, helping the polished surfaces catch the light from multiple angles. That curvature continues through the case sides into Farer’s distinctive “bat ear” lugs, while a scalloped section between them allows the strap to sit clo...