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Monochrome
Cyma’s history begins in the 1860s, with the establishment of the Tavannes Watch company in the Swiss Jura, laying the foundation for a manufacture that would become an important name in Swiss watchmaking, even though the Cyma name was only registered in 1903. By the 1920s, the company had grown into one of Europe’s major […]
Fratello
There are 567 reasons to fall in love with the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split in platinum. The only watch in the world capable of measuring intermediate and comparative times with an aggregate duration of up to 12 hours houses the 567-part hand-winding triple-rattrapante caliber L132.1, which has a hypnotizing effect on watch connoisseurs. […] Visit The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...
Hodinkee
In case you somehow missed it, last week was Geneva Watch Days. While not the absolute busiest week of the year for new watch releases, it's not far off the mark, and 2026 saw dozens of brands converging on Geneva to show off their latest and greatest novelties. We covered a lot of those watches as they dropped, but now that we've had a few days to process what we got to see (some of us in person, the rest vicariously), we thought it would be a good moment to share some of the watches that stood out to us from a week full of new watches. And please forgive us: while we did our best to hold ourselves to Geneva Watch Days proper, as was inevitable, a few ancillary picks made their way into the mix, but I think we can all agree they're still watches worth talking about. Of course, our ragtag team of editors can only cover so much here, so once you've seen all our picks, be sure to drop a line in the comments — we'd love to know which watches from Geneva Watch Days stood out to all of you. Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk in Yellow Gold (plus the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese) [Ben Clymer] Can I pick two? I have to. Because this year kinda felt like the old days – the two watches I'd actually buy of GWD 2026 are from brands I've loved (and owned) a long, long time - Laurent Ferrier and MB&F;. The first is Laurent Ferrier's new limited run of "Dusk" annual calendar moonphases in yellow gold. As you probably know, I love yellow gold, and this is the first iteration of a lovely w...
Worn & Wound
As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands. The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...
Hodinkee
About a year ago—or maybe two—I remember sitting in an Uber with Ben and some of the Hodinkee team as we drove down the Rue de Lausanne in Geneva, heading to Watches & Wonders. We had just grabbed a quick breakfast when Michael Friedman unexpectedly joined us. Yes, that Michael Friedman. The "AP, Michael Friedman, my friend's cooler" rap lyric guy. The guy who just so happened to have also formerly been a curator at the Willard House & Clock Museum and the National Watch & Clock Museum, Head of Watches at Christie's New York, a client advisor to people like Eric Clapton (during his pièce unique Patek years), and most recently the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. Okay, maybe you don't know Michael Friedman. But I knew him well and had some formative early-career experiences bumping into and getting to know him. I also knew he was working on a new brand, but had absolutely zero idea what it was. "It's wild," said Ben—or some approximation of that. "It's not so much a watch as a cuff, with a bunch of diamonds." What could that even mean? I had ideas in my head, but as they spiraled, they got further from the truth. As of a few months ago, we have the answer, and it's not what I had envisioned. The B-Theory Series 1 from Friedman's new brand Pattern Recognition is, as Ben said, far from a watch in most respects, but closer than I expected. Yes, it's jewelry. There are diamonds. And yet it's got the bona fides of technical watchmaking and connections with the pa...
Monochrome
In 2026, Panerai celebrates 100 years of its boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, Florence. Originally opened in 1926 as “Orologeria Svizzera”, the boutique became an important part of the Panerai family’s history, a place where watches were sold but also assembled and repaired. The preserved location, reopened to the public in 2001 following the renovation, […]
Fratello
This year is an important one for Panerai. The brand is commemorating the centenary of its long-standing store, Orologeria Svizzera, in Florence. To celebrate 100 years of the famous boutique with its breathtaking views of the Florence Cathedral, Panerai unveils the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794. This new limited edition of 1,000 pieces takes inspiration […] Visit Back To The Roots With The Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to meet some of the team from Matador and was let in on a massive secret: Matador had plans to replace almost its entire line of soft goods. Unlike other manufacturers, this wouldn’t be a slow rollout or gradual discontinuation of lines; it was a hard stop, set for early August, almost an “end of an era,” if you will. Among the list of packs that were nearing their end was the GlobeRider line, which has become a regular in my rotation of bags. Thankfully, the Matador team had production samples on hand and was able to walk me through the changes and dispel my worries, and I’ve been putting one of these new models through its paces for about two months now. Back in June of 2025, I took Matador’s GlobeRider 35-liter on an almost two-week-long trip to Atlanta and Alaska and was genuinely impressed by the bag’s performance. In my initial review, I mentioned that while being larger than I needed, the Globerider never felt out of place, whether I was using it for EDC, bringing home groceries, or hauling around a hefty bit of camera kit. Since then, I’ve taken the GR35 on a weekend trip to Paris, used it countless times to haul gear and groceries throughout the city, and it’s earned itself a constant place in my small but packed gear closet. Having spent nearly two months with the new GTP, it has become clear to me that while this bag is something new, a significant amount of previous design DNA has remained. Most notably...
![Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/69c5fd6b-1f21-4aad-b7f8-8d50df2e56e6/augustHHH.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Two weeks ago, we managed to fit in one more Hodinkee Happy Hour before summer slips away. We gathered at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, where friends old and new escaped the rain to enjoy an evening of good conversation, food from Upside Pizza, and beer from our local friends at Grotta. Despite the weather, the turnout—for both people and watches—did not disappoint. If you made it out that night, thank you for coming. Please note that the next Hodinkee Happy Hour won't be until October, so please keep an eye on the site and our Instagram for the October RSVPs. Until then, scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and to see some cool watches. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, sporting a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition t-shirt. A vintage Movado Triple Calendar. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding with a blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial. A Sinn T50 titanium diving watch and a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with a black dial and contrasting subdials. F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve De Marche. From left to right: a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 with a "Patrizzi" dial from 1996, and a Grand Seiko. From top to bottom: a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235G, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Deep Stream," and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15510 ST Green Dial from 2022. Rolex Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 "Arabic prototype." From top to bottom: the Rolex Zenith Dayto...
Monochrome
While Tutima gained popularity thanks to its purposeful pilot watches, aviation-themed chronographs and robust adventure-driven collections, one of the brand’s lineups certainly stands apart from the rest and shouldn’t go unnoticed. A tribute to the German school of watchmaking and the manufacture’s roots, the Patria collection celebrates classic designs and in-house watchmaking, done the Glashütte way. Elegant, […]
Fratello
Back in 2020, TAG Heuer introduced the Carrera Chronograph Sport for its 160th anniversary. The collection consisted of 44mm chronographs with either a stainless steel or ceramic bezel. Of course, they were attractive, with designs inspired by TAG Heuer’s rich racing history. However, I feel the 2023 Carrera Glassbox took much of the attention away […] Visit A Lap Around The Track With The Facelifted And Downsized TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport to read the full article.
Monochrome
Chronoswiss founder Gerd Lang will forever be remembered as the watchmaker who produced the world’s first serially produced wristwatch with a regulator layout in 1987. Without a shared central axis, the separation of hours, minutes and seconds characteristic of regulators connects directly to the Digiteur of 2005, a digital regulator with jumping hours at noon, […]
Fratello
The way we tell time matters, and not just because we want to miss the train. The way we read time is also an experience. Digital time is just a series of numbers, while an analog timekeeper sweeps through time, showing you where it has been and where it is going. Call me a hopeless […] Visit The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Puts A Softer Spin On A Peculiar Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]
Fratello
Vintage watches can seem intimidating when you first start looking. There are unfamiliar references, decades of production changes, questions about originality, and the ever-present possibility of an expensive service bill. But you don’t necessarily need a huge budget to get into vintage watches. In fact, €5,000 opens up a surprisingly broad selection. In this episode of Fratello […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Vintage Watches We’d Buy Under €5,000 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...
Hodinkee
Hello from (rather warm) Cupertino, California. Yet another year has flown by, which means once again we continue our more than a decade-long tradition of taking an extremely brief pause from traditional watchmaking to see what's up with the newest editions of the most popular and widely adopted watches in the world. They just happen to be fully digital. And yes, another year of us unpacking what it truly means to be a watch in the comments section. If you're like me and also a tech nerd, you've undoubtedly been following the rumors recently ahead of the launch. It's the first launch event since John Ternus' succession to Tim Cook as Apple's new CEO, and while Ternus stepped into the role a week ago, eyes are undoubtedly peeled to see what the next generation of Apple's designs might entail. But most of the noise was on the rumored foldable iPhone, with very little attention being paid to Apple Watch. Last year's updates were largely subtle changes from a design perspective, mostly around new functionality and small visual improvements. Series 12 — What's New? In short, not much. Those of us (me included) may be disappointed that there isn't a new physical redesign, with the current generation of design language carrying forward and no major changes to speak of. The real changes are under the hood: a new Health Sensing System paired with the S11 chip now takes a heart rate reading every five seconds, all day, and measures HRV up to 24 times more often than before—numbe...
Monochrome
Since the launch of his eponymous Le Solliat-based brand in 2017, David Candaux has developed his own visual and mechanical language, offering highly technical movements and an unusual case construction and display. The DC6, introduced after his first creation, the DC1, established many of the elements that have become signatures of the brand: a basin-shaped […]
Time+Tide
Zelos just launched a new set of dials for the Helmsmann SS, with combinations of carbon fibre, natural stone and mother-of-pearl
Deployant
GWD2026 which watches will Daryll pick this year? Daryl, ever the contrarian, makes his unconventional picks of the best of GWD26.
Monochrome
You might have heard of diamonds as endstones on the balance staff and the escapement, but putting them onto the balance wheel? Now, if you were to think of one watchmaker to do it, though, it would be Jacob & Co, never shy about challenging the conventions of high watchmaking. The new Brilliant Flying Tourbillon […]
Hodinkee
What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept. All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...
Fratello
Whenever I review a genuinely fascinating example of haute horlogerie, I’m constantly reminded that one never stops learning about watches. Yes, these wildly creative pieces make me feel like a neophyte. And so it is whenever I hold a David Candaux creation. The watches look like nothing else, yet they’re pleasingly tactile and meant to […] Visit The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist! to read the full article.
Fratello
There’s a version of the watch calendar that only contains Geneva, and I understand the appeal of that version. It’s the one we see, read, and hear about on the regular. But some of the best days I’ve had around watches haven’t been in a fair hall at all. They’ve been at smaller, community-run events […] Visit Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25–27, And I Think You Should Go to read the full article.
Monochrome
Alexandre Beauregard is a friendly character who has been gravitating toward the world of independent watchmaking for a few years now – although he is, above all, known for his expertise as a jeweller and gemmologist at his workshop in Montréal, Canada. Until recently, he had presented exclusively watch collections for women; in 2024, he […]
Fratello
Louis Vuitton is expanding the Tambour Spin Time collection with five new references, moving the latest generation of its distinctive jump-hour watch from limited editions into the permanent collection. The new watches retain the architecture introduced in 2025 but bring new colors, materials, gemstones, and a more varied set of executions. So, before your head […] Visit Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re all back home. Balazs has returned from Geneva, and Mike has come in after three weeks of being on the road. In this episode, we review the overarching trends at Geneva Watch Days 2026 along with the top releases. Enjoy the show! This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
Seiko has slowly but consistently expanded its King Seiko collection. For its newest release, the brand introduces a Vanac with a black dial. It sounds pretty simple — almost too simple. But there is a little more to the story. The black dial of the King Seiko Vanac HKF005 mimics the Tokyo skyline at night. […] Visit The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist to read the full article.
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