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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

Wiki · Guide
Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 Time+Tide
Ming Dec 9, 2020

LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020

The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have … ContinuedThe post LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum: Commemorating The Life And Times Of Stephen Hawking Quill & Pad
Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum Nov 29, 2020

Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum: Commemorating The Life And Times Of Stephen Hawking

To commemorate Stephen Hawking, English watch company Bremont created a set of limited-edition watches honoring the late theoretical physicist: the Bremont Hawking and Hawking Quantum models. As the brand’s tenth limited edition, the Hawking watches pay homage to some of the greatest accomplishments of an Englishman in the last century. And like that titan of cosmology, there is more than meets the eye here.

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans Time+Tide
Nov 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans

More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon is a tempting sub-$500 throwdown for aviation fans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Nov 23, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost

One of the earliest entrants in the luxury-sports watches segment, the Girard-Perragaux Laureato made its debut in 1975. But the model did not remain in production consistently, and only recently enjoyed a revival with a relaunch in 2017. With its relaunch, the Laureato line up now includes complications like the tourbillon, exotic case materials like sapphire, and onyx stone dials. The latest is perhaps the most striking version to date: the Laureato Ghost that was designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (BWD) and rendered entirely in white ceramic. George Bamford with the Laureato Ghost Founded by George Bamford, the fashion and watch entrepreneur who’s the son of construction-equipment tycoon Sir Anthony Bamford, BWD started out as an after-market customiser of Rolex watches and swiftly became one of the preeminent brands in that niche. But BWD has since evolved into an officially-endorsed customiser (albeit not by Rolex), having received the stamp of approval from various watchmakers, most notably from the brands owned by LVMH, namely TAG Heuer and Zenith. The Laureato Ghost is the first collaboration between BWD and Girard-Perregaux (GP), having been rolled out for the 45th anniversary of the Laureato, explaining the small, 45-piece run. Initial thoughts Named Ghost because of its singular colour palette, the watch is attractive in its simplicity. BWD’s house style is often characterised by an all-black finish, making the all-white Laureato Ghos...

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph Deployant
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Nov 21, 2020

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph

For most Omega fans, the Speedmaster will always be the go to collectible. While far superior in technology and performance, the co-axial equipped automatic chronographs tend to be lesser in demand as compared to its cam and lever 1861 counterpart. The Speedmaster rides on its widely published Moonwatch story line, but what the Seamaster chronograph lacks in storyline, it makes up for in functions. In particular, this model is delightful to look at because of its unique metal contrasts has a 300m water resistance and an accurate and antimagnetic movement.

INTRODUCING: More refined, wearable and affordable, the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB185 Nov 19, 2020

INTRODUCING: More refined, wearable and affordable, the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187

Seiko’s year of living prolifically – while seemingly oblivious to a global crisis – continues afoot. After releasing dozens of watches already this year, to almost unanimous praise from fans and press alike, they have done it once again with the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187, two watches that look familiar for lots of reasons. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: More refined, wearable and affordable, the Seiko Prospex SPB185 and SPB187 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob) Time+Tide
Nov 18, 2020

Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob)

Editor’s note: The news out of Geneva overnight is that Watches & Wonders 2021 (formerly SIHH) is cancelled, unsurprisingly citing the “current health crisis and uncertainties as to how the situation may evolve”. To be honest, it feels like only last week that we were reporting on the cancellation of Watches & Wonders 2020, with … ContinuedThe post Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future - Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Nov 15, 2020

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future - Reprise

When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mr Newson has long Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI

With the Geneva watch auctions having just concluded – and notching up a US$1.51 million record for a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – it’s now Hong Kong’s turn. Taking place at end November, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI includes a compact selection of independent watchmaking, most of which are notably affordable. Here’s a look at a few highlights, including the prototype of the sold-out S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin that will be sold to benefit charity. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 801 – Marc Newson Hour Glass Perhaps the quintessential timekeeper designed by Marc Newson, the Hour Glass is a timekeeper filled with nanoballs”, tiny steel spheres that are coated in gold – specifically, a little under 1.25 million of them. An industrial design known for his Lockheed Lounge and the work for brands like Qantas and Louis Vuitton, Mr Newson has long dabbled in designing watches and clocks. The Hour Glass was unveiled in 2010 by Ikepod, the watch brand cofounded by Mr Newson that later went bust. It’s a single piece of glass that’s formed by hand with a blowtorch, a rigorous process that requires skill and finesse, which explains the price despite its simplicity. This Hour Glass is the smallest version in the line up, standing 15 cm high, making it a convenient object for the desk. It’s a 10-minute timer; the medium and large versions are 3...

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 11, 2020

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph

Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Nov 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink

Conversations around gender politics are mostly avoided within the watch world, for a multitude of reasons. Arguments tend to get in the way of the mutual appreciation for the hobby, just like any contentious topic, but there is a glaring problem with how most companies go about their watch marketing. Opinions aside, that absolutely anyone … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph Quill & Pad
Nov 7, 2020

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph

At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Nov 6, 2020

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Taking place over two days – Friday, November 6 and Saturday, November 7 – The Geneva Watch Auction: XII at Phillips is the first sale of the fall auction season. A compact sale of under 180 lots, the auction comprises a diverse line up, ranging from the obviously notable – like a Cartier Crash in platinum and a unique Patek Philippe ref. 5020P – to the obscure but extremely interesting, like the postwar A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch made after the company had been nationalised by the Soviets, as well as a vintage Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar with a paradoxical brand-new but factory-original case. Here’s a look at handful of standouts from the sale. You’ll find the full catalogue, as well as online bidding, right here. Lot 31 – Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235G Unlike many of the other watches in the auction, the ref. 5235G is neither rare nor complicated, or even especially valuable. But it is an under-appreciated gem in Patek Philippe’s line up. Lightly designed and full of unusual details – ranging from the brushed dial finish to the engraved logo at three – the ref. 5235 also boasts a distinctively-designed movement unique to this reference and found in no other model. This example of the ref. 5235 is in white gold, which was discontinued last year and replaced by the same in rose gold with a black dial. While the new version is far more striking, the almost monochromatic white gold version is deeply appealing in its simplici...

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches… Time+Tide
Nov 4, 2020

NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches…

As times change, the perception of the perfect fit evolves. When wristwatches were created, they were lauded for finally miniaturising the timepiece and making it a compact wearable object versus a large item that had to rest in a pocket. Now it seems, like American politics, the watch community is split in two: one party … ContinuedThe post NOT ON MY WATCH: For the love of Mary, make watches small again. All the reasons I hate big watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial Nov 3, 2020

VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch

If, like me, you love the svelte lines and sharp details of the vintage Heuer Carrera, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial chronograph (available for purchase here) is a reliable, sleek modern rendition. This is faithful to the lineage, in a contemporary 42mm. The deep blue dial blends formality with the clear motorsports … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The new TAG Heuer Carrera Collection blue dial is a contemporary take on the classic racing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry

Whether you like it or not, the Apple Watch is here to stay and has proven itself the most popular wristwatch in the world. A watch for all people, whether working class, a professional athlete, or celebrity … everyone has seemed to hop on the Apple bandwagon. But is that really any surprise? The reality … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Oct 30, 2020

Nomos Introduces the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife

Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers has worked with Nomos on a regular basis to create its own limited editions, with the latest being the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife. While earlier Ace editions incorporated local elements like the Dutch capital’s coat of arms and the work of Piet Mondrian, the new edition resulted from a collaboration with a Dutch Nomos enthusiast who also started a community on Instagram for like-minded collectors, @nomiesforlife. Named after the Instagram channel, the new edition is a more sombre iteration of the usually colourful Club Campus, done in high contrast black and white, accented with pale blue. Initial thoughts Ace Jewelers has plenty of Nomos limited editions under its belt – this Club Campus is the second launch this year – which might seem one too many. In fact, the new model is rather similar to an earlier edition, but with red replaced by blue. That said, the “NomiesForLife” edition is appealing, mostly owing to the colours and pronounced affordability – the retail price is under US$1,400. Clean and more restrained compared to the standard Club Campus, the new edition nonetheless retains the “California” dial, which gives it a fun, retro style that’s helped by the blue accents. Basically it caters to anyone who likes the Club Campus for its accessible price and sporty-ish style, but prefers a more understated look. And the new edition is even more affordable than the standard models in relative terms: though priced ex...

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career Time+Tide
Cartier s Oct 22, 2020

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career

What would you think if the boss handed out a stack of Cartier watches to reward you for your efforts this year? We’d say that sounds like a pretty great place to work. (And, yes, this story is a thinly veiled hint to T+T boss, Andrew, as he plans this year’s Christmas bonuses) ((Dream on, … ContinuedThe post Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 20, 2020

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph

Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money

It seems like every week, another Kickstarter microbrand comes forward with its own take on a diving watch. Some of these are more successful than others, but the one certainty is that in order to stand out, companies have to increasingly  think outside the box. AUDRIC Watches have done so with the home-run combination of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Time+Tide
Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Oct 15, 2020

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch

If you’re someone who spends more time looking at screens than you would like to, but don’t want to miss an important call, the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch is an interesting proposition. At first impression, or from across the room, you would think you were looking at a mechanical mid-century wristwatch. After all, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The “inexplicable insanity” that underscores the story of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak It feels Oct 12, 2020

The “inexplicable insanity” that underscores the story of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

It feels like decades since CNN came to our offices to shoot it, and by now I’d expect it to have run its course, but according to the fairly regular stream of photos of me on TV screens from friends, family, colleagues and strangers it’s still very much doing the rounds; a series of one-minute … ContinuedThe post The “inexplicable insanity” that underscores the story of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000 SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2020

Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000

Sotheby’s fall watch auction in Hong Kong included a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, including two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, both with silver guilloche dials. The first to go on the block was a 37 mm specimen in white gold with a movement number of 68. It sold to a client represented by Joey Luk of Sotheby’s watch department for HK$3.528m including fees, which is a little over US$455,000. That was substantially above the US$250,000-300,000 range that the Simplicity had generally sold for, setting a new record for the model. The next lot was a 34 mm Simplicity in platinum, numbered “100”. And then the record was broken. After a few minutes of back and forth between an online bidder, as well as phone bidders represented by Ms Luk and John Chan, also of Sotheby’s watch department, Mr Chan’s bidder triumphed with a bid of HK$4.1m. Inclusive of fees, the total was HK$5.136m, or about US$662,000, well over double the most recent high for the Simplicity. Part of the reason behind the price is rarity, not only absolute but also relative to other Simplicities. Platinum is unquestionably the rarest metal version for the watch, and 34 mm examples is are regarded to be fewer than 37 mm. The record price for both watches bode well for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary “00/20” – fresh from maker and offered by Mr Dufour himself – that will be sold at Phillips’ November auction in Geneva.  

Aquastar Introduces the Deepstar Chronograph SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2020

Aquastar Introduces the Deepstar Chronograph

Originally founded in 1962 to capitalise on the popularity of leisure diving at the time, Aquastar specialised in making diving instruments and notched up several patents, such as a “no-decompression” bezel. But like the rest of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, the Aquastar suffered during the Quartz Crisis and faded away, although it never really died. Now it’s been resurrected and makes it debut with, unsurprisingly, a vintage remake with the Deepstar Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Deepstar is obviously a watch of the 1960s, with the angular, tonneau-shaped case and dial design giving away its origins. The retro-diver look is now back in vogue, which was no doubt a reason behind the revival of the brand. And the popularity of the design is for good reason. It is clean and attractive, and unusual compared to today’s dive watches (although vintage remakes are increasingly common). The vintage Deepstar All of the best elements of the vintage original are found on the remake, including the oversized, “big eye” minute register. And though it’s larger than the 37 mm original – a necessity due to the La Joux-Perret movement inside – the remake is 40.5 mm, smallish by today’s standards, which means it still retains the vintage feel. Aside from the true-to-original grey dial, the Deepstar is also offered in black and blue, with an “early-bird” price of US$2,790 (which rises to US$3,590 after the initial run of 300 pieces in each colour). The pre-...

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 2 - What watches would we buy with a budget of $10,000 USD? Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2020

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 2 - What watches would we buy with a budget of $10,000 USD?

Like we said in the previous instalment, 2020 has been so bad that fantasy is often all we’ve had left. Fantasies of leaving our houses are still being had daily in Melbourne, and fantasies of new watches and sunny days are not far behind. So, to try to make something good of the bad, we’ve … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 2 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $10,000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.