Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Artelier Complication, A Dress Watch Redesigned For A New Generation
The minimalist, decluttered redesign is the brainchild of the brand's 24-year-old Product Design Engineer.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Super Freak, Quite Possibly the Most Complex Time-Only Watch Ever
Some watches follow the established path of horology, refining proportions, improving calibres, and adjusting aesthetics within well-defined and safe boundaries. And then some watches question nearly everything that is considered conventional and classic. When the Ulysse Nardin Freak was unveiled in 2001, it introduced a new design, a new movement, but it also proposed an […]
Deployant
Live from WWG: new from Chopard L.U.C
Chopard celebrated their 50th anniversary of the L.U.C back in 1996. Here is the celebration watches. Karl-Friedrich Schuefele started the L.U.C manufacture in 1996 with the L.U.C movement. In 2025, Chopard released the L.U.C Grand Strike which we have covered last year. This year, we have the latest continuation of the L.U.C 1860 with anRead More
Monochrome
First Look – The Superb Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, now in Blue
Chopard marks the 30th anniversary of its first in-house movement produced in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture. A pivotal moment for Chopard, the calibre 1.96 was released in 1996 and is still regarded as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor movements today. The first watch to feature the calibre was the L.U.C 1860, presented in a […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue
Tudor continues to expand their Black Bay 54 collection at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the Black Bay 54 “Blue”. Since the launch of the original Black Bay 54, the diver has settled into a role as a favorite among enthusiasts for its slender, compact proportions. The original release was a straightforward black dialed, black bezel affair, and last summer saw the surprise launch of the “Lagoon Blue” reference that re-characterized the watch as a fun, more jewelry oriented diver than we would have expected. A diver with a blue dial and bezel is frankly something expected in a dive watch lineup these days, so this release is not so much a surprise, but it’s interesting to see how Tudor executes on a dive watch standard. In terms of specs, there are no big surprises here, and this edition of the 54 follows those that have come before. The case in stainless steel measures 37mm in diameter and has water resistance to 200 meters. It runs on the same MT5400 movement, which is COSC-certified and has a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. It’s available on both a rivet style three link bracelet or a rubber strap. The blue dial is very, very blue. Tudor refers to it as “sapphire blue” and in the bright lights of their booth at Palexpo the sunray finishing and almost purple-ish hues are quite prominent on the dial. It’s very saturated, and I think even in less intense lighting it will have a lot of presence. If you compare it to other blue wa...
Fratello
Tudor Introduces The New Monarch To Celebrate The Brand’s 100th Anniversary
The big surprise introduction to celebrate Tudor’s 100th anniversary is the new Monarch. This new watch celebrates the brand’s century of technical progress. Having said that, the Monarch name is far from new. In the 1990s, Tudor introduced the first series of Monarch models, which proved popular in Asia. Today’s release is not a simple […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Monarch To Celebrate The Brand’s 100th Anniversary to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere
Any watch bearing “Hybris” in its name represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanics and craftsmanship. Representing the third pillar of the elite Hybris family, the new Inventiva series is dedicated to single, groundbreaking complications. The first in line is the extraordinary Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère Calibre 178. Building on two decades of multi-axis […]
SJX Watches
Rolex Celebrates the Oyster
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion. One is a sombre 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary model (Ref. 134303) which blends gold with steel and the other is a playful 36 mm Jubilee Dial (Ref. 126000) which focuses on colour and patterns. Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters printed in vivid colours make for a look that is split between vintage inspired and excessively modern. This Oyster...
SJX Watches
Rolex Celebrates the Oyster with Anniversary Models
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion: the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary (ref. 134303) in an unusual blend of gold and steel, and the playful Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee Dial” that’s all about colour and patterns with a dial reminiscent of the works of Alighiero Boetti (and is available in 41 mm, 36 mm, and 36 mm variants). Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters pri...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Nomos Tangente Neomatik 38 Update
The Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik Update features one of the most original date displays introduced in recent years. Launched in 2018 in a 40.5mm case, this peripheral “ring date” indication became a defining one for the brand’s modern watchmaking, just as the original Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer collection revealed at Watches and Wonders 2025 did. […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Revitalizes The Royal In 40, 36, And 30mm
Fresh sizing, dials, and movements for Tudor's everyday integrated bracelet sports watch.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Tudor Black Bay 58 in Black-Gilt
Tudor was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf with a clear-cut mission to offer Rolex-level dependability at more accessible prices. Stepping out from under the shadow of its big brother in 2010, Tudor has developed a distinctive personality built around a mix of vintage and modern tool watches, spearheaded by the 2012 Black Bay line. […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Returns with CPCP-Inspired XII Dial
Among other watches presented in Geneva this week, Cartier unveils a new interpretation of one of the brand’s celebrated models, the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, to expand its highly desirable Cartier Privé collection. Following the model’s praised return in 2024, the brand introduces a platinum edition with a dial inspired by the Collection Privée Cartier Paris […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The All-Blue Tudor Black Bay 54 Reference 79000B
In 2023, Tudor brought a new case size to its Black Bay collection, shrinking the Black Bay to 37mm, while staying true to the overall design codes of the series. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand presents a new variant that shares the tech specs with the earlier all-black 79000N reference but looks a […]
Fratello
Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay 54 In Blue
It’s been three years since Tudor surprised us with the Black Bay 54. The smallest of the Black Bay models has since become a popular option for people who love a modestly sized Tudor dive watch. The new addition to the lineup comes with a nice sapphire-blue dial and bezel. It’s a color that really […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay 54 In Blue to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's New Atelier Des Établisseurs
A project from the Audemars Piguet Department of Heritage brings three unique time-telling objects to Watches and Wonders.
SJX Watches
Hands On: IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive
IWC teams up with Vast, prospective constructors of the International Space Station’s private successor, with the IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a uniquely astronaut-friendly take on a spacefaring watch that breaks new ground for IWC’s signature pilots watches. If all goes well, these watches pass the Kármán line next year when Vast plans to launch the Haven-1 commercial space station. Initial thoughts Vast is an American aerospace company hoping to develop modular commercial space stations (Haven-2), and, at a glance seems more promising than the average ambitious space startup. If all goes to plan, the Vast Pilot will launch with the Vast’s Haven-1 prototype space station in 2027. The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - which could easily have been called the “Vast Pilot” as a play on its popular Big Pilot - is among the most visually appealing watches from IWC in recent memory. Computer rendering of the Vast Haven-1. Image – Vast Pressroom The combination of white and dark gray, and a clean but technical look leans into the “NASA Punk” aesthetic. The minimalist industrial look calls to mind watches like the IWC Ocean 2000, designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche. The gradated blue horizon around the dial is an inspired thematic choice, and is paired with a matching seconds hand. The lack of a chronograph is surprising, given IWC’s general affinity for them, as well as their domination of the space watch genre. I find that refreshing, sinc...
Fratello
Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor is always an exciting brand to look at during Watches and Wonders. This year, the brand hasn’t disappointed, with a host of new releases. The new Tudor Monarch looks very cool, and so does this Black Bay Ceramic. Let’s dive in. Tudor is no stranger to ceramics, but today, we get a watch with […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux (Inc. Video)
Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF collection adds another notch on its belt of “hidden complications” with the launch of the Chronograph Mystérieux. Following in the footsteps of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Minute Rattrapante, this third complication is a monopusher chronograph. By reimagining the chronograph in the refined, pure aesthetic language of the Tonda […]
Fratello
Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux
Of all modern high-end brands, Parmigiani Fleurier is among my favorites. In fact, the Tonda PF has consistently ranked as the top watch on my list for the past several years. The smooth design and what must be one of the best bracelets I’ve ever tried help boost its ranking. Then, there’s the dial. A […] Visit Invisible Complexity: The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Super Freak takes the Freak idea to its wildest extreme yet
Celebrating 25 years of this revolutionary watch, we get a true upgrade that takes it even further into the realms of high horology.The post The Ulysse Nardin Super Freak takes the Freak idea to its wildest extreme yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff
Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns
A. Lange & Söhne has introduced the Saxonia Annual Calendar, the brand’s most compact annual calendar to date. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar plays to the strengths of Germany’s foremost watchmaker, combining a compact 36 mm case with an intuitive and legible ‘outsize date’ design reminiscent of the brand’s famed perpetual calendars. The new cal. L207.1 hints at future developments while incorporating refined details such as gold chatons around the going train jewels - a finishing touch that has been absent from the brand’s ‘entry-level’ automatic movements until now. Initial thoughts There’s been a palpable trend toward smaller watches in recent years - Lange’s 34 mm 1815 released last year was a major hit, and it seems like there’s more of a focus on dimensions and thickness than at any other time in the past decade or so. In this context, the Saxonia Annual Calendar should be well-received. At just 36 mm in diameter and under 10 mm thick, the watch is compact even by the standards of time-only watches. In fact, it’s the most compact annual calendar yet from Lange, and the small size of the dial makes the big date format especially convenient for those, like myself, who have trouble reading pointer dates at arm’s length. In fact, I’d argue the enhanced legibility and differentiated design of the big date makes the Saxonia Annual Calendar competitive with more complicated (but equally compact) perpetual ca...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller (Incl. Video)
The Sport Traveller is a new model from Laurent Ferrier that adds a dual time function to the brand’s titanium Sport series. The Sport Traveller continues the aesthetic first introduced with the Grand Sport Tourbillon and later refined with the Sport Auto, and the new watch combines the same smooth case and integrated bracelet with a traveller-style complication […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Star Edition Celebrates A Turning Point In The Brand's History
A watch honoring the fight of Honorary Chairman Dr. Rolf Portmann, who rescued the Swiss watchmaking world from an antiquated law and restarted the Oris brand.
Fratello
A. Lange & Söhne Releases Two Distinct Calendar Watches For Watches And Wonders 2026
At Watches and Wonders 2026, A. Lange & Söhne presents two new calendar models that highlight very different sides of the brand. This year’s lineup features a highly expressive Lumen limited edition and a more understated Saxonia Annual Calendar. It is a familiar strategy. Lange often balances a shock-and-awe statement with something more wearable. This […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Releases Two Distinct Calendar Watches For Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.
Deployant
WWG26: New A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
A. Lange & Söhne introduces the next generation of its Saxonia Annual Calendar watch, featuring a new movement, an updated dial design, and a smaller case.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition
Today, Oris introduces its Star re-edition. It’s a celebration of the very first Oris watch to feature a lever escapement, from 1966. But “Oris Star” sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Back in 2023, we collaborated with the company from Hölstein on the Fratello × Oris Divers Sixty-Five with “Star” on the dial, just like its 1968 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - A Watch Made For Space
Space - the final frontier. Well, with the recent launch of Artemis II and a host of space-related tech advances, there is a renewed cultural interest in exploring the stars. IWC has partnered with Vast, which is building the world’s first commercial space station, to develop its take on what a space watch should be. […] Visit Introducing: The IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - A Watch Made For Space to read the full article.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement
This year, Hermès is celebrating the fifth birthday of its H08. It already feels like the maison’s sporty watch, with its characteristic geometric shape, has become a real staple in the collection. But there’s more reason to celebrate, as it’s also been 20 years since Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the Swiss high-end movement […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement to read the full article.