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First Look – COSC x Ceramic x Meteorite… Meet the Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Monochrome
Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Dec 9, 2025

First Look – COSC x Ceramic x Meteorite… Meet the Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Formex continues to excite while exploring materials and mechanical substance with the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter, a watch that fuses the brand’s most advanced ceramic construction with a dial cut from the depths of space itself. Following the Essence Space Ghost and the full-ceramic Essence Ceramica, this latest creation unites […]

Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA093 And SLA095 On Leather Straps Fratello
Seiko Vanac SLA093 Dec 9, 2025

Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA093 And SLA095 On Leather Straps

Earlier this year, Seiko unveiled new King Seiko Vanac models. The legendary Vanac name dates back to the 1970s, when it represented the creative and extravagant side of the King Seiko line. The modern Vanac models show significant influence from the ’70s classics. Although they are nowhere near as flashy, they have similar, angular cases […] Visit Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA093 And SLA095 On Leather Straps to read the full article.

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 2022 launch Dec 9, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis

Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...

Do Rolex Watches Tick? It's All In The Beat Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 8, 2025

Do Rolex Watches Tick? It's All In The Beat

“Do Rolex watches tick?”  This is, apparently, a frequent question and a common concern of newbie Rolex owners, but the premise of the question is actually driven by a misconception. Virtually all Rolex watches - in fact, all watches equipped, as most Rolexes are, with a mechanical movement - are  indeed ticking while they are running. If your ear is not perceiving it, that is only because the ticking is so rapid - nowadays, at least eight times per second - that the watch’s seconds hand appears to be moving in a smooth, sweeping motion. This can be quite noticeable if you have experienced only the much more visible, (and easily perceptible) one-tick-per-second movement common to the seconds hand of a quartz watch. In fact, if your Rolex watch is ticking once per second, it might be worth taking a moment to authenticate whether or not it is real or counterfeit. Allow us to explain. [toc-section heading="The Difference Between Mechanical and Quartz Movements"] A mechanical movement is the oldest type of movement in horology. It uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a...

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers Worn & Wound
Nomos Caps off Dec 8, 2025

Nomos Caps off a Big 2025 with a New Pair of Limited Edition Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers

It’s possible that 2025 might wind up being remembered as the year Nomos got its groove back. Of course, you’d have to argue that they ever lost it in the first place for that to be true, and I don’t know I’d quite go that far. But there’s no denying that they had their first true breakout watch in a very long time in 2025. The Club Sport Worldtimer, which debuted in April at Watches & Wonders, is almost certainly going to end up on a range of “Best of the Year” lists as December marches forward, and I can say without any hyperbole that it’s one of the top two or three watches from this year that I’m asked about by readers and collectors in the community. The fact that the limited editions that were part of the initial launch sold out so quickly is proof that the watch is resonating with enthusiasts.  Nomos added a trio of additional limited editions to the range back in October, and now, just in time for the holidays, they’ve added two more. Like that earlier set, the new Reverie and Roam models play on a similar theme. In this case, it’s the versatility of the classic champagne dial. The Reverie has a champagne dial base and is matched primarily with yellow accents (the outer cities ring, and within the 24 hour subdial). The complementary shades play well with each other, and the watch has a distinctly classic aesthetic. Nomos doesn’t really do “vintage inspired” but these tones make me think of old Datejusts and the types of watches you migh...

Introducing – Eska Launches the New Racing Chronograph Automatic, a Sub-500 Euros Take on Motorsport Design Monochrome
Dec 8, 2025

Introducing – Eska Launches the New Racing Chronograph Automatic, a Sub-500 Euros Take on Motorsport Design

Originally founded in 1918 in Granges, Switzerland, Eska Watches vanished during the quartz crisis and was revived in 2024 by Christophe Chevreton and Sinicha Knezevic. The partners quickly captured the essence of Eska’s heritage and adapted it to modern trends. The rebirth began with the Amphibian 250 dive watch and the Heritage Chronograph, both assembled […]

Omega Co-Axial Movement Explained: A Radical Invention Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Dec 7, 2025

Omega Co-Axial Movement Explained: A Radical Invention

What is a Co-Axial Movement? More specifically, what is the now-famous Co-Axial Escapement that has become a standard feature on most all Omega watches? In short, it's both a radical concept by one of the modern era's most revered watchmaking geniuses and the culmination of a Swiss watch brand's longtime dedication to improving watchmaking accuracy. Here is the story of Omega's co-axial movements.  [toc-section heading="Early Omega Movements"]  While it is best known these days for its signature watch models, like the Speedmaster “Moonwatch” and the James Bond-worn Seamaster, Omega has also been a pioneer in movement-making since nearly the beginning. The company was founded in 1848 by 23-year-old watchmaker Louis Brandt (with family, above) in the Swiss village of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Originally called La Genérale Watch Company, and eventually renamed Louis Brandt et Fils after Brandt’s sons joined the business, it originally produced key-wound pocket watches from parts supplied by local artisans, After the growing company moved from La Chaux-de-Fonds to the more bustling town of Bienne, in the Swiss Canton of Bern, it pioneered a series of industrial watchmaking techniques and also began making its own in-house movements. The first one, called the Labrador, launched in 1885 in a now-legendary series of pocket watches. Nearly a decade later, in 1894, came the company’s chef d’oeuvre, the 19-ligne Omega Caliber, which was notable at the time for its enviable acc...

Honeygold for the Holidays: A. Lange & Söhne’s New Lange 1 Daymatic SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2025

Honeygold for the Holidays: A. Lange & Söhne’s New Lange 1 Daymatic

A. Lange & Söhne brings 2025 to a close with the Lange 1 Daymatic Honeygold. Limited to 250 pieces, the new edition pairs the familiar reversed Lange 1 layout with a warm chocolate brown dial and the straw-coloured precious metal that has become synonymous with the brand’s most exclusive releases. The automatic version of Lange’s signature watch is dressed in Honeygold for the first time. The proprietary alloy has appeared only sparingly since its 2010 debut, making this one of the rarer expressions of the Daymatic and a notable addition to the broader Honeygold lineage. Exclusivity aside, the Daymatic exudes tangible quality, as expected from Lange. Initial thoughts The 17th Honeygold edition since the material debuted in 2010, the Daymatic is, to my eye, one of the more attractive editions in the series. Perhaps it’s my affinity for the Lange 1 design, but the simplicity of the layout and textures is more appealing than some other recent editions like the Odysseus that was launched at Watches & Wonders. The Daymatic has always felt like the quirky sibling within the Lange 1 family, in a good way. And while the reversed dial takes some getting used to after becoming accustomed to the standard model, this layout has its advantages. For one thing, the repositioned sub-dial for the time display makes it easy to peak at the time while half the watch remains tucked away under one’s sleeve. The entry price of about €75,000 is a lot of money for a simple day and date...

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million Dec 6, 2025

Francis Ford Coppola’s F.P. Journe FFC Breaks US$10 Million

Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype shattered expectations at Phillips’ New York watch auction today when it achieved price of US$10.8 million including fees. One of the most talked-about lots this auction season, FFC’s FFC is the most expensive watch sold in 2025, and now the most valuable example of independent watchmaking by some margin. Big result in the Big Apple Despite chilly weather in New York, the action in the saleroom quickly turned hot. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened at US$1 million, but the bid instantly jumped to US$2 million. Several bidders then piled on, but the contest condensed to just four phone bidders past the US$4 million mark, including bidders represented by Tadzio Nuno and Paul Boutros, of Phillips’ Geneva and New York offices respectively. The action then settled into a head-to-head between bidders represented by Alex Ghotbi and Isabella Proia, once again of Geneva and New York respectively. Mr Ghotbi emerged the winner with a US$9 million bid, which brought the total to US$10.755 million with fees. The bidding was notable for being entirely on the phone – though one bidder was in the room but bidding on the phone – and also for being driven by clients outside of Asia. A record The result makes Mr Coppola’s prototype - one of only two made, and the only one in private hands - the most valuable wristwatch from an independent watchmaker ever sold at auction, exceeding the US$8.36 million achieved by the landm...

9 New Watches Released This Week Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 6, 2025

9 New Watches Released This Week

Even with the year coming to an end, we are still seeing a slow trickle of new watch releases ranging from a new MoonSwatch to a Breguet showstopper celebrating the maison's 250th anniversary. Here are the notable new watch releases from this past week as well as the new updates to the Tudor Ranger and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (hey, we can be a little flexible with the "week" rule). As brands squeeze in final announcements before the calendar flips, it's a reminder that the watch world never really rests. And if you want to see our favorite watches of the year, make sure to check out the Teddy Top 40 Watches of 2025 which just got a big update. [toc-section heading="TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Carrera"] TAG Heuer continues its collaborative relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara and his fashion brand, fragment design, with the release of a new glassbox Carrera this week. The watch takes design cues from fragment’s signature style, meaning monochromatic in nature, with minimal details to place emphasis on the broad strokes for contrast. The black-on-black dial is framed by a white internal bezel structure, which is domed under the glassbox crystal. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position, with the first and 11th of the month using the fragment lightning-bolt logo in lieu of the numeral. This is fitted within the excellent 39mm steel Carrera case, and utilizes TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Thi...

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Listings from Seiko, Omega, Benrus, and More Worn & Wound
Omega Benrus Dec 5, 2025

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Listings from Seiko, Omega, Benrus, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko Bell-Matic 4006-6010  Starting this week off with a solid vintage Seiko Bell-Matic alarm watch. The steel case is nice, unpolished with sharp edges. The silver dial has a cool linen texture that gives it a great vintage look. Applied, raised steel markers with dauphine hands and the classic Seiko day/date window at three complete the look. Overall this is a clean example of a Bell-Matic. The only bummer is that it doesn’t come on the original bracelet. However, slap a nice leather or croc strap on this and you’ll have a gem! No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Looking for a nice treat for yourself for the holidays? Check out this sweet vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. The DeVille is Omega’s dress watch version of their iconic Seamaster line, and this example would be from the 1960s. The slim yellow gold filled case is superb and unpolished. You can still see the subtle chamfers on the delicate lugs. The classic Omega silver dial is super clean, with slim stick markers and stick hands. There is an applied gold Omega symbol and name at twelve. The Omega signed crown is correct and original. T...

In-Depth – Exploring the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, and What it Means (Incl. Video) Monochrome
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Dec 5, 2025

In-Depth – Exploring the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, and What it Means (Incl. Video)

François-Paul Journe, a talented watchmaker and the founder of the brand F.P. Journe, is mostly known for his Tourbillon Remontoire d’Egalité – it was his first watch – and his take on the resonance phenomenon. We can also mention the Octa, his automatic watch introduced in 2001, and, of course, the fantastic Chronomètre Bleu. But […]

Doxa and Topper Jewelers Introduce their Second Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Dec 5, 2025

Doxa and Topper Jewelers Introduce their Second Collaborative Limited Edition

While far from Topper Fine Jeweler’s first collaboration, the original Doxa x Topper Sub 300 “Great White” quickly came to define the strong suits of both the watch boutique and the celebrated Swiss brand. That original Great White was based on Doxa’s iconic Sub 300 model, but with some cheeky changes; namely, a luminous white dial, and the distinct lack of a date window. A year later, Doxa and Topper have teamed up again to produce a new version of the Great White, with the specs, and complications, shaken up.  The new Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” brings back the previous model’s cushion case design, but with slightly smaller dimensions. Measuring in at 40mm by 42.9mm in diameter, the new Great White trades in a fraction of the water resistance (250 meters versus the 300 meters offered on the Sub 300), but swaps in a brand new GMT complication that both shakes up the visuals, and adds a new layer of practicality.  I had the opportunity to wear the new Great White for a few days, and my impressions of the overall design are largely the same as they were for its predecessor: the luminous white dial and Pantone 2955 C dark blue details create a look akin to porcelain pottery, while also calling to mind the iconic fish after which the watch is named. The beautiful beads-of-rice bracelet is back, and very easy to adjust, thanks to a micro-adjustment clasp and easy-to-remove links. It pairs wonderfully with the sleek cushion case and elevates the Gre...

Interview – Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on How Leica Blends its Photographic DNA with German Watchmaking Monochrome
Dec 5, 2025

Interview – Dr. Andreas Kaufmann on How Leica Blends its Photographic DNA with German Watchmaking

Dubai Watch Week is a remarkable platform for engaging with influential figures, and this year’s edition offered us the chance to sit down with two of Leica’s key leaders. Together, we explored the past, present, and future of one of Germany’s most storied manufacturers – an icon in photography renowned for its precision engineering, craftsmanship, […]

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K Dec 5, 2025

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial

A bright yellow Seiko that reminds you that watches are meant to be fun. They don’t all have to be technical and serious, just pure enjoyment on the wrist! This is my story with the SRPL87K. What We Love The mango-yellow dial brings instant personality and fun to any outfit. It’s an easy grab-and-go mechanical watch you never have to think twice about. The 5-link bracelet upgrade elevates the whole look far more than expected. What We Don’t The lume is good, but not as strong as some other Seiko models. 100m water resistance is fine, but 200m would’ve felt closer to classic SKX DNA. No bracelet option for the yellow dial out of the box — a missed opportunity given how good it looks on one. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 There’s something about Seiko’s SKX range that leaves an impression on you. Even if you never owned the original model, the SKX collection of modern is the entry-level diver and the perfect canvas for those who love to mod their timepieces. It is the watch that turned a lot of casual wearers into full enthusiasts! While Seiko may have closed the chapter on the original SKX line many years ago, the spirit of the collection certainly didn’t disappear. There have been many modern iterations in Seiko’s current collections that have been inspired by SKX models of the past, each carrying hints of the familiar dive watch DNA: the practicality, the simplicity, everyday toughnes...

Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again SJX Watches
Louis Erard continues Dec 5, 2025

Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again

Louis Erard continues its prolific run of collaborations with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Worn & Wound, designed with the New York-based publication behind the value-focused Windup Watch Fair. Known for reinterpreting its popular regulator model through limited editions created with independent watchmakers and designers, Louis Erard now turns to a collaborator rooted in accessible watch culture, resulting in a design that blends layered dial architecture with the brand’s familiar 39 mm steel case and reputation for value. Initial thoughts If there’s one brand that has managed to build an identity around collaborations, it’s Louis Erard. Over the past few years the brand has released an astonishing range of limited edition series, usually built around the Le Régulateur platform, designed in collaboration with a diverse mix of watchmakers and designers. Notable releases include collaborations with Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter, but these are just two among many. Louis Erard’s latest is a collaboration with New York-based Worn & Wound, a watch blog with an e-commerce business. Worn & Wound is also the driving force behind Windup Watch Fair, a collector-focused watch fair that takes place in New York, San Fransisco, Dallas, and Chicago each year. Worn & Wound’s primary focus is value-oriented watches, so the collaboration with Louis Erard makes perfect sense. Like most of the brand’s watches, Le Régulateur is a good value, managing to sneak in just u...

A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era Fratello
Montblanc Era It’s October 9th Dec 4, 2025

A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era

It’s October 9th, 2006, and this news flash appears on the Richemont website: “Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods group, is pleased to announce that it has acquired Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva SA in a private transaction from G. P. P. International SA, Luxembourg. The watch brand Minerva was established by Charles Robert in 1858 and is […] Visit A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era to read the full article.

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces? Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 4, 2025

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces?

While it’s all fine and dandy to get into the weeds of watches with the most complications, the most intricate hand-finished details, or precious metal construction, sometimes, you’re just looking for a watch that can take a beating. With that theme in mind, I’ve rounded up some of the most durable watches on the market today that you can wear confidently on your next adventure without fear of your wrist companion wimping out on you. I can’t, obviously, include every single durable watch out there, but down below, I’ve gathered durable watches with a great range of utility, style, and price point to get you started. And away we go… [toc-section heading="G-SHOCK Mudmaster Master of G-Land"] Case: 52.1mm Material: Resin and Steel Water Resistance: 200 meters Movement: Quartz Price: $880 I find it helpful on lists like this to begin with the most obvious. G-SHOCK is always the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about durable watches. I mean, the brand was created entirely with toughness in mind. Several pieces and sub-collections in the G-SHOCK universe would fit the bill, but I’m going to go with its Mudmaster line here. Another one to consider is the GX56BB-1, which has gotten the nickname “The King Of G-SHOCKs” and is shock-resistant from every angle.  Made with mud-resistance and shock-resistance in mind, the Mudmaster Master Of G-Land collection is G-SHOCK’s most tactical line. If you plan on navigating the most extreme of terrains, this i...

Ressence and Legendary Industrial Designer Mark Newson Team Up for the New Type 3 MN Worn & Wound
Ressence Dec 4, 2025

Ressence and Legendary Industrial Designer Mark Newson Team Up for the New Type 3 MN

It’s honestly a little hard to believe that Ressence and Mark Newson hadn’t collaborated until now. The new Type 3 MN, a limited edition version of Ressence’s oil filled watch designed by Newson, feels like a watch that was somehow inevitable. Ressence occupies a very specific niche in independent watchmaking – there is simply no other time telling system quite like the one they have pioneered, and it has a distinctive quality to it that is immediately recognizable. Newson’s design work is similarly well known, and while he’s worked across many industries over many years, watch lovers will quickly identify him as the creator of the Ikepod, a futuristic watch with an aggressively circular design that has influenced a variety of contemporary watches, especially those in the realm of independents. Ressence is chief among them, not necessarily because any particular Ressence looks like an Ikepod (although you can make a case) but because of the deliberate nature of each.  The Type 3 MN is tough to discuss without mentioning Ikepod because the watch really looks like a modern extension of what that brand might have been if Newson had stuck around. The case has a curvy, pebble like quality to it for maximum ergonomics. The hands are lifted right from classic Ikepod designs, and the whole package has an organic quality to it that is a Newson design signature. Both Newson and Ressence founder Benoit Mintiens mention in the press materials for this release that the col...

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches Worn & Wound
Omega Dec 4, 2025

WU25 Panel: Horage and the Revolution of Regulating Mechanical Watches

The last, but certainly not least, panel of Windup Watch Fair 2025 features Andi Felsl and David Sharp, CEO and COO of Horage. The two discuss the remarkable story of how Horage’s breakthrough in the world of mechanical regulation. It’s called MicroReg, and Horage believes it is a game-changer. Hear (or read) all about it, including an audience Q&A;, below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan Hello everyone, welcome to the final panel of Wind-Up Watch Fair New York City 2025. This panel is sponsored by Horage, and I’m pleased to be joined by Andi Felsl, CEO of Horage, and David Sharp, COO of Horage. It’s a pleasure to have you both here. We’re going to be talking about Micro-Reg, a fascinating new technology developed by Horage-potentially game-changing in the watchmaking space. Andi, can you start by explaining what Micro-Reg is in layman’s terms, and how the idea came about? Andi Felsl Thank you for having us-it’s a pleasure to be the last panel of the fair. The idea dates back about ten years, when we were preparing for volume manufacturing of our first movement, the K1. At the end of assembly, I realized regulation was going to be a cost issue. Regulation is a costly exercise because it requires precision, and we don’t have the production volume of Rolex or Omega. We needed a different way. I wondered: could we regulate the watch from the outside, while it’s being worn? Regulation has been a big is...