Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

A Photo Diary Of My Week In Geneva For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Geneve (Complete With Lots Of Wristshots)

Auctions, independents, the GPHG, and so many incredible watches.

Happenings: Join Us For An Exclusive Screening Of The Biggest Talking Watches We've Ever Made

Familiar faces, jaw-dropping watches, and a guest you won't believe – all on the big screen.

Wristwatch TikTok Is Not For You (Or Me), For Now

#Watchtok is real, here's what you need to know.

Best Minimalist Watches | Our Top Picks For 2024

Few forms of expression are as thoughtful as minimalist watches - restrained, purposeful, but still with personality. Here are our favorites.

Which Rolex Movement Takes the Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison of Rolex Calibers 3135 and 3235, plus Which is Better? – Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Find out right here!

Staff Picks: Who Says You Can't Wear White After Labor Day? Our Favorite Watches For Disregarding Summer Rules

From white dials to white ceramic, the watches we can't resist wearing (or thinking about), even after Labor Day.

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist – Reprise

After seven decades carefully stored away in the Zenith archives, ten of the original chronometry competition-winning movements find their way into a limited set of new watches thanks to Phillips, legendary independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, and Zenith's current management.

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive

The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane.  Initial thoughts  Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist.  The Tokyo Lion is pric...

In Praise of Anglage: Exceptional Hand-Finished Anglage is Difficult, Slow, and Expensive so the Big Brands have Given Up and Few Seem to Have Noticed (or Seem to Care): Thank God for the Indies! – Reprise

Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?

Guilloche for Beginners: A Photo Essay

Tucked away on a wooded island in the Pacific Northwest lies one of the most important horological workshops in the United States. Known as Memoria Technica, the workshop is owned by Brittany Nicole “Nico” Cox, a renowned conservator of mechanical objects. I was first introduced to Nico in 2019 by Joshua Shapiro, the California-based watchmaker and guillocheur behind J.N. Shapiro. Joshua and I happened to visit Nico’s workshop on a day when she was teaching a beginner’s course on the art of guilloche. Since that encounter, I’d always had it in mind to return and take her class, but life (and a global pandemic) got in the way until I was finally able to secure a spot in her July class this year. But what is guilloche? Within the context of decorative techniques, guilloche, also known as engine turning, occupies a niche all its own. Characterised by intricate, recurring, and overlapping patterns, guilloche techniques have been used to decorate some of the most coveted objects in history. Meet your instructor In the rarified world of antiquarian horology, Nico is practically a household name – a bit like Beyonce. Nico specialises in the conservation and restoration of all types of mechanical objects, from watches and clocks to music boxes and automata. Having trained as a conservator at the Museum Speelklok in the Netherlands, which houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical musical objects, Nico is especially passionate about automata. Not onl...

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement?

In an era of modern and accessible digital technology, the utilitarian role of mechanical timekeepers has inevitably dwindled. Yet, it is still pursued as a luxury of an artform – either of the highest finishing by hand that can’t be performed by machines, or the research and development in making a mechanical timepiece – in particular wristwatches – as accurate as possible.  One of these horological pursuits, to preserve the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, is the supply of a constant force to the escapement. To isolate the varying torque as a mainspring gradually unwinds, some haute horlogerie watches today incorporate either a fusée-and-chain or a remontoir, which supplies a steady torque to the escapement for stable timekeeping.  However, there is one particularly novel take on constant force released by Girard-Perregaux, in the form of a proprietary escapement. First unveiled as a prototype in SIHH 2008, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement has a patented, double escape wheel system that is designed from the ground up to inherently have a built-in constant force system, thus eliminating the need of a remontoir or a fusée-and-chain.   Despite being first created 15 years ago, Girard-Perregaux (GP) is still further developing the escapement today, with a new set of patented improvements publicly available – strongly hinting at a revamped model in the near future. These patents make it worth a deep dive into the original Constant Escapement (CE) fr...

Citizen Series 8 GMT Collection Makes Time-Zone Jumping, Easy

Citizen introduces a new set of "flyer" or "true" GMT watches. The new Citizen Series 8 GMT collection. Check out photos, specs, and pricing.

Buying, Selling, & Collecting: A Yellow Gold Lover's Foray Into Tool Watches

Not all that glitters is gold. It can be Oystersteel, too.

Recommended Reading: How 'Succession' Picks The Perfect Watches For Its Characters (Hint: We Helped)

The HBO hit ends tonight; here's the behind-the-scenes story of the watches you'll see on screen.

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex Made for the Deepest Depths, A Very Limited-Edition Grand Seiko, And The First Modern Breitling Top Time

Some of our favorite pre-owned watches available in the Hodinkee Shop.

Auctions: The ‘Imperial Patek Philippe’ Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million

Now one of the most expensive watches ever, a closer look at the history and rarity of Puyi's Calatrava 96 "Quantieme Lune."

Six watches with a smaller case for collectors with smaller wrists

In this week's article, we take a look at watches with a smaller case and select six excellent timepieces that you might want to consider.

Pre-Owned Picks: For Less Than $5,000 You Can Own The Best Of Japanese Watchmaking With Grand Seiko

From Spring Drive to 9F quartz here are five examples from the Hodinkee Shop.

Huckberry Teams Up With Timex For Nostalgic IRONMAN Flix Reissue

The late ’90s were a simpler time when it came to activity devices. There were no smart or connected watches, just simple, straightforward timers from brands like Timex and Casio. They could time you, and even keep track of laps, but they couldn’t track you the way these things do today. If you miss devices like that, you’ll be thrilled about this latest collaborative effort between Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who are bringing back the Ironman Flix watch, complete with that sweet Indiglo dial. The nostalgia hits hard with this one, like digging up that Walkman that still works, or even the Talkboy you absolutely needed that one Christmas. Tech wasn’t afraid to have some personality back in the ’90s and early ’00s, and the original Timex Ironman Flix was no exception. The Timex Ironman Flix gets the same Ironman labeling as the original, a nod to its pedigree in helping train triathletes thanks to it’s expansive 100 lap memory (!), and memo mode where you could store some (brief) notations on your activities. This may seem paltry by today’s super high-tech smart wearable devices, but this was impressive stuff for such a small device not long ago. Further, this boils your activities down to their basics, and encourages a far more straightforward approach to working out… just doing it. The Ironman Flix is a breath of fresh air, and I should know, it was my sole running companion for a week. With every major new Apple Watch release I tend to spend a f...

Hublot and Sang Bleu team up for the third instalment of their successful collaboration

Colour My World: Six colourful, vibrant and exciting watches for Your Collection

This week, we look at the brighter side of life, with an eclectic selection of six colourful and vibrant watches that will light up one's collection.

Introducing the Bell & Ross Novelties for Watches and Wonders 2023

Introducing: Four New Tank Louis Cartier Watches

A quartet ranging from modern minimalism to glamorous glitz.

Watches & Wonders 2023 Starts Monday: Brace Yourself For New Releases From Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, And Dozens More

The team is in Geneva and new watches are in the air.

Ressence Adds a Sage Green Dial Option for the Entry Level Type 8

When I think back to last year’s Watches & Wonders, there are only a handful of watches and experiences that really stand out in my memory now that time has done its thing. The one-off Streamliner that H. Moser coated entirely in Vantablack comes to mind, as does that giant purple Hublot that has become a point of personal obsession.. As I reflect back though on my first Watches & Wonders, there’s another meeting that stands out, somewhat surprisingly, from all the others, and that’s our experience with Ressence. I’ve always admired Ressence and had limited hands-on experience with them in boutiques and at meetups prior to seeing them in Geneva, but it was another thing entirely to have a whole bunch of them laid out on a table with brand founder Benoit Mintiens personally taking us through the collection. These watches are truly special, quite rare, and try them all on in rapid fire succession was just a lot of fun. The big new release at the time, the Type 8 C, made a particularly strong impression as the new entry level Ressence. It was lightweight, beautiful, and approachable in a way that no other Ressence had felt like to me.  Now, just in time for Watches & Wonders ‘23, Ressence has introduced another Type 8, this one in a gorgeous shade of green. The new Type 8 S (for “sage green”) has exactly the same specs as last year’s version in blue. That means it still has a lugless 43mm case made from grade 5 titanium, that’s just 11mm tall. It has a flyi...

Nivada Grenchen and Fratello Watches Team Up for the the Racing Chronograph

[VIDEO] The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph is the Aquaracer We’ve Been Waiting For

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has had a relatively sorted history since its introduction in 2004, taking on a range of identities scarcely connected between era specific design codes that come and go. The bits that have connected through the years remain as compelling today as they were in the pre-Aquaracer 2000 Series watches, and after a generation of Aquaracer growth, their latest effort in the Solargraph feels to have finally found a lasting voice by tying it all together in a cohesive package. This is the first Aquaracer since those early 2000 Series watches that has felt like a fully matured concept to my eye, and I hope it’s a sign of things to come within the family.  To this day the Aquaracer exists in many forms spread across the Aquaracer 200, 300, and 1000 ranges. Each adopts the general dive watch aesthetic at the core of the collection, but you’ll find complications ranging from chronographs and GMTs alongside gem-set colorful dials in a range of sizes. It’s a collection that covers a lot of ground. The Solargraph, as seen in its newest guise released earlier this year, manages to capture a near perfect distillation of the Aquaracer design language, and manages enough restraint to feel like a fresh, and I’ll venture to say more timeless execution of the theme. That’s merely at first blush, however. We recently spent some time with the watch to see just how well that pans out in practice. $3050 [VIDEO] The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph is the Aquaracer W...

Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Here's Why I Traded My Cartier Santos-Dumont For A Tank

Whoops, now I have both.

Introducing: Re-Creations Of The First Grand Seiko For The 60th Anniversary Of Grand Seiko, SBGW259, SBGW258, SBGW257

Three new watches that celebrate the austere beauty of the originals from 1960, now in regular production models.

Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique

Vulcain made a triumphant return in 2022 with the launch of a new series of iconic Cricket alarm watches in varying sizes and colors. By using the seemingly foolproof recipe of recreating a vintage timepiece with little to no reinterpretation, and relying on the historical value of the name itself, the brand was able to shake off several years of being dormant. The result was a quick sell-through and a return to relevance. The question, of course, was how they would follow up and take advantage of their newfound spotlight. The answer is the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique, which might initially seem like a surprising follow-up. Why? Well, rather than sticking with their in-house calibers or most recognizable models, they went for a somewhat generic mid-century diver. Whether or not this was a good idea will be left to consumers, but it was smart of them to demonstrate that they are going to delve deep and wide into their archives for inspiration, as well as create products at different price points. Available in black or blue with a few strap options, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is priced at around $1,600 (to be clear, it’s 1490 CHF, the USD is based on the exchange rate). $1600 Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Case Stainless Steel Movement ETA 2824-2 Dial Gloss Black Lume Yes Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Carbon Pattern Leather Water Resistance 20 ATM Dimensions 38 x 44.2mm Thickness 12.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $1600 N...