Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-120 Blue Planet
Urwerk releases the final edition of their UR-120 in a blue and gold colourway which they dedicate to Earth. This novelty is called the UR-120 Blue Planet.
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Deployant
Urwerk releases the final edition of their UR-120 in a blue and gold colourway which they dedicate to Earth. This novelty is called the UR-120 Blue Planet.
WristBuzz
The Arc builds on the beloved Seeker with refined construction, better finishing, and the kind of quiet confidence that makes a watch hard to take off.
Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand enjoyed a strong 2025, growing sales and volumes, according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, bucking the industry trend. And the brand recently got some high-profile exposure on the wrist of the Roland Garros winner with French Open champion Alexander Zverev wearing Jacob & Co. during his matches and on the podium. We sat down in Geneva with Benjamin Arabov, the Chief Executive Officer of Jacob & Co., to talk about the brand's operations and strategy. You might be surprised at how Jacob & Co. watches are produced, the size of its production, and how the brand is being impacted by the war in the Middle East. But first, some business news headlines, including looming job cuts at one of Switzerland's most important and respected watch brands, which are the result of shifting trends impacting the industry. Sources: Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult And finally - looking ahead to next week's episode, number 30 in the history of The Business of Watches, we're planning a special Q&A; episode and will gather some of the Hodinkee team, including editor-in-chief James Stacey and editors Mark Kauzlarich and TanTan Wang, to answer your business-related questions. Want to offer up a question? Please drop it in the comments below. We're looking forward to hearing f...
Hodinkee
It's summer in NYC. The Knicks are up 2-1 in the Finals. The pace has slowed a touch with the warmer weather, but the cold brew is still coursing through our veins, and society is sorting itself into two camps: people who stand in line for Dot Cake and those who do not. You can draw your own conclusions there. In other words, the city is immaculate right now. At Hodinkee HQ, that can only mean one thing: it's time for our new summer issue. Transatlantic by Design: How Tiffany & Co.'s watchmaking has always moved between New York and Switzerland, by Malaika Crawford. Volume 16 arrives with two covers. One celebrates Tiffany & Co.'s new Timer while looking back through the brand's remarkable watchmaking archives. The other marks 100 years of the Rolex Oyster with one of our most ambitious Reference Points to date, a deep dive into the Oyster Perpetual and the enduring influence of Rolex's most foundational watch. Written by former Hodinkee editor and Bring A Loupe alumnus, Rich Fordon. Reference Points: Rolex Oyster Perpetual by Rich Fordon. 100 years of the Oyster case proves a blueprint for everything Rolex does. Elsewhere, Nora Taylor spends time with Knicks guard Josh Hart, discussing basketball, collecting, and the watches that have accompanied him throughout his career. Independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi contributes a personal essay on craft, responsibility, and the act of building something intended to outlast its maker. Then Jason Heaton revisits the legend o...
Worn & Wound
Few innovations in automobile engines have been as impactful as the turbocharger, first brought to production cars in the 1960s and popularized in the United States largely thanks to the iconic turbodiesel 1978 Mercedes-Benz 300SD. With a telltale whistle accompanying that extra boost of power, the turbocharger soon became synonymous with motorsports and performance cars of the 1980s: the Audi Quatto’s breathy flutter, the 930 Porsche 911 Turbo’s heartpounding lag, and the Ford Sierra RS Cosworth’s European rally dominance all helped propel the decade into the “golden era” of turbocharged performance. With their latest release, motorsport-inspired watchmakers Autodromo are bringing another homage to a period of automotive innovation, this time highlighting the Group C “prototype” class of sports cars from the 1980s, many of which featured bold (and sometimes dangerous) turbocharged power. The basis of this new collection is their already-successful Group C digital watch, initially released in 2023, and the new Turbo Sport models draw inspiration from the analog tachometers of turbocharged ‘80s motorsports legends to create an ani-digi design that straddles the classic and modern eras of automotive and horological design. First, the dimensions: measuring in at 38.5mm in case diameter and 40mm lug-to-lug, the Group C Turbo Sport is compact, and sits fairly lightly on the wrist with a 11.4mm case thickness measurement. The case itself is anodized aluminum ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
CWC watches are rugged, legible, and tied to real military history, but they are not for everyone. Here’s our hands-on take across 5 CWC models.
SJX Watches
After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...
SJX Watches
After more than 20 years, avant-garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. The HM12 is a Horological Machine containing a high-end shaped movement featuring a flying tourbillon, nestled in the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and founder Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a...
Hodinkee
What We Know If there's a brand known to constantly exist in a state of one-upping itself when it comes to new designs, it's most certainly MB&F;. And, just as expected, following a slew of radical Horological Machine designs, this new Horological Machine 12 manages to go in a completely new direction. No, your eyes aren't fooling you. This new creation is a robot and a watch combined, in three editions of 12 pieces each: blue, green, and purple. If the Horological Machine 11 drew upon the architecture of the 1960s, the HM12 "The Guardian" looks a decade or two later, when a massive pop-culture obsession with science fiction and robotics would lead to generations of kids obsessed with properties like Transformers, Gundam, and the resulting toys that followed. If there's ever criticism of some of Max Busser's more playful ideas coming across as much too toy-like, the HM12 completely doubles down on that idea with this new design that takes the idea of a robotic action figure to the horological extreme. Here, Max's vision is implemented by another Max, Maximilian Maertens. A name familiar to collectors of the brand, Maertens has been responsible for many of the clock and music box creations for MB&F;, as well as the little Minimilian figures given to owners of MB&F; watches. There's a lot to break down here, so let's start with the watch itself. It is, ever so purposefully, designed to resemble a face, but its construction reveals so much jam-packed into the futuristic, spacesh...
Monochrome
At this point, perhaps it is very safe to say that Seiko doesn’t like holding back when it comes to giving the 5 Sports collection new directions. What started as a home for SKX-inspired sports watches has gradually turned into one of the brand’s most varied collections. Along the way, we have seen GMT models, […]
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I helped a close friend pick out her first mechanical watch: a beautiful blue Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” special edition. For me, it was an easy recommendation, given my love of Seiko, their position as the true global king of entry- to mid-level watch purchases, and the prestige of the Prospex diver line itself. For her, as a lover of all things to do with the natural world, it was meaningful thanks to the eco-benefitting twist and oceanic theming. That particular Prospex was not the first, nor the last Seiko to showcase an organization doing work for ocean conservation and education: new for 2026 is the Prospex HBB002, celebrating the Professional Association of Diving Instructors’ (PADI) 60th anniversary. Seiko’s connection with the world of diving goes far beyond the simple styling and function of many of their iconic diver timepieces. As the company points out, it released its first diver in 1965, just one year before the PADI itself was founded with the intention of raising training standards and expanding access to education on diving as a hobby and profession. Now operating in 183 countries, PADI also puts promoting ocean conservation at its forefront, a noble cause that Seiko themselves have championed with their Save the Ocean program. So, it makes sense that Seiko has supported PADI as a partner for ten years, and is celebrating that partnership and PADI’s sixtieth anniversary with the new HBB002 model. The watch itself bring...
Hodinkee
We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...
Monochrome
Named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, home to the city’s Museum of Time, the Yema Granvelle collection (2025) embraced a more architectural and elegant approach, stepping away from the brand’s familiar world of dive watches and tool-oriented sports models, and offering a model with a distinctive cushion-shaped case and powered by one of […]
Worn & Wound
The microbrand/independent scene in the UK is truly one of the most exciting in the world, with dozens of brands vying for attention and an always growing community of excited watch enthusiasts eager to experience just about everything on offer. This is very much the vibe every time we attend British Watchmakers’ Day and have a chance to experience it firsthand, and honestly it’s invigorating in a way to be placed in an enthusiast environment that feels familiar but also very specific to the UK. One of the more interesting brands to emerge from this scene is Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Beaucroft is not the flashiest or highest profile microbrand in the UK, but they’re on the rise, and they tend to make an impression when you actually see the watches in person. Garrett was such a fan of the Element when he saw one he decided to purchase it for himself. My moment of conversion came at British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, where I still regret not purchasing the Penfold Special Edition released that year. Their newest release has been dubbed the “Arc” and is an update of the Seeker model originally launched in 2023. The Arc leans into the design language that was established with the Seeker and the brand has continued to refine in every model since, namely flowing, natural case lines paired with dynamic, colorful fumé dials. The dramatic curved mid-case is, according to the brand, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs over the River Cam, not far from Beaucroft’s head...
Monochrome
The Delphis collection by Chronoswiss is home to increasingly expressive editions. The colourful and technically elaborate Delphis Firestarter, the refined Delphis Art Deco, the decorative and contemporary Delphis Dracula, Horizon and Dune, or the Delphis Sub Zero, inspired by glaciers and bright blue Arctic skies, all these and more were used by the Lucerne-based independent […]
Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]
SJX Watches
Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.
WristBuzz
Rolex's first fully lacquered ombré dial lands on the Datejust 36 and 41. The references involved, how the dial is built, and why this one keeps selling out before it lands in display cases.
Worn & Wound
Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years. And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches. You might remember the Atelier collect...
Hodinkee
What We Know Among collectors I know and respect, Chopard has been somewhat quietly picking up steam. The launch of a dateless L.U.C. 1860 with a rosy salmon-toned dial in 2023 was a bit of a turning point, bringing the model—compact and beautifully finished—to a broader audience, and with it, Chopard. Revolution was early to the party with its own limited edition, featuring untreated 3N yellow gold and a Lucent Steel case. For that release, the dials were made by Metalem, which makes the dials for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. Now, the idea is back with a new model with similar dial treatment, with a twist. The new L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition comes 26 years after the groundbreaking Quattro model, which featured a 9-day power reserve. This time, the same untreated 3N yellow gold dial is made in-house by the Chopard team, while the watch is still cased in Chopard's proprietary Lucent steel. There is a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, small seconds, and a date at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands are high-polished dauphine shapes with kite-shaped applied hour markers that have a faceted mirror-polished finish. One of the reasons that collectors value Chopard's L.U.C line so much isn't just the quality of the function of the movements, but the quality of the finishing. Yes, the caliber 98.01-L movement doesn't have sharp edges for interior angles like has become so popular these days, but the Côtes de Genève and anglage are still sublime. The four large...
Hodinkee
Following a whirlwind year of releases for Breguet's 250th anniversary in 2025, this year's recent updates to the collection play it a little safer, with some enamel-focused changes to the brand's iconic Tradition series of watches. The fan favorites, I'm sure, are the 38mm Tradition Seconde Rétrograde models. But when I had a chance to check out some of the novelties a few weeks ago, it was actually the larger, 40mm Tradition GMT that caught my eye. Priced at $82,900, the Tradition GMT is very much a seriously priced contender in the haute horlogerie arena. But one look at the watch shows off so much of what makes it special, and most importantly, it's unabashedly Breguet. Add in the visual update of this current generation, and I think it's the best version I've seen yet. Much of what makes this version stand out is the main subdial at 12 o'clock. It's not every day that Breguet opts for a shade of green in the series—in fact, it's the first time in the Tradition line, as blues, blacks, golds, and greys seem to define much of the older collection. The execution of the gradient green-to-black grand feu enamel dial in this model is absolutely sublime. Enameling is one of the strengths I associate with Breguet's in-house capabilities, and here it's done very well, with a pleasant shade of forest green shifting to the dark black perimeter, all executed and fired by hand. While the Breguet logo and other dial markings are printed in a metallic silver finish for legibility,...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Raymond Weil enters the integrated-bracelet race with the A.R.T. Collection. We break down the 38mm mechanical, pricing, and the competition.
Hodinkee
Auction season can be exhausting. I can barely believe that we do this twice a year. We often only have the time and energy to cover the main show in Geneva, with a few thousand lots offered between four auction houses just last month. But after Geneva and Hong Kong (which comes before Geneva for some houses and after for others), the circus comes to New York, and this year we're going to take a gander at the watches on offer in the city. Most auction houses don't drop their catalogs until after Geneva is over. That prevents people from holding their bids because they're doing the "distracted boyfriend meme" and looking at future watches. That keeps them from going all-in in Geneva, which isn't what the auction houses want. They want your bids now and later. Well, later is here, and I hope you have some cash left over. Weirdly, I'm getting a sense of déjà vu; there are a few familiar-looking watches. So let's go ahead and take a look. Phillips It was a banner weekend for Phillips in Hong Kong with a pretty fantastic $51.5 million sale, backed by the $10.2 million sale of the first series rose gold Patek 2499, which became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia. That is one of three mega Pateks Phillips was offering this season, which is rounded out by an incredibly clean and honest 1518. I know the record result means that that should be the watch to pick, all things being equal, but I still like a watch that looks basically untouched. Photo courtesy Phillips. P...
Worn & Wound
From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King Philip II (1527–1598) inherited a globe-spanning empire from his father Charles V and, after 1580, also ruled Portugal. A devout champion of the Counter-Reformation, he centralised government, built the vast monastery-palace of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, and presided over Spain’s political zenith. His court prized scientific instruments and clocks as emblems of order and piety. Philip was part of the great Habsburg dynasty and the son of the Holy Roman emperor Charles V. From time to time, the emperor wrote Philip secret letters, impressing on him the high duties to which God had called him and warning him against trusting any of his advisers too much. Philip, a very dutiful son, took this advice to heart. During his reign the Spanish empire attained its greatest power, extent, and influence, though he failed to suppress the revolt of the Netherlands and lost the ‘Invincible Armada’...
Monochrome
TAG Heuer has been having a lot of fun with the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox lately. Blue, panda, reverse panda, and purple versions have all brought a different style to the table. More recently, TAG Heuer also added teal green and black dials to the new-generation 41mm models, and the latest addition heads in yet another […]
Monochrome
Designed in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the acclaimed artistic director of Hermès who defined le gout Hermès, the elegantly asymmetrical Arceau echoes the brand’s longstanding equestrian ties with its stirrup-shaped lugs. The latest Arceau Cavalier en Formes is an amalgamation of the collection’s strengths, combining a highly sophisticated tourbillon and minute repeater complication with a […]
SJX Watches
Longtime collaborator of Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) – and designer of the Ferrari Luce – Marc Newson recently helped created one of the brand’s under-the-radar new launches for 2026, the Memovox Travel Clock. The clock combines Mr Newson’s trademark functional, geometric style with JLC’s signature alarm that buzzes loudly enough to be an actual alarm. Notably, the Memovox clock is powered by a brand-new movement, rather than an existing wristwatch movement. Equipped with some clever features like a peripheral crown, the manual-wind cal. 256 inside has a useful 12-day power reserve. The Memovox Travel Clock is a reassuringly old-school analogue travel gadget, but priced like haute horlogerie at a little over US$30,000. Initial thoughts Even though an integrated-bracelet sports watch was JLC’s headline debut at Watches & Wonders, the Memovox Travel Clock is arguably more interesting. To start with the Memovox clock marries a historical concept – people actually travelled with small clocks back in the day – with Mr Newson’s useful, distinctive design. Moreover, the design is backed up by a new movement that incorporates clever functions that integrate into the design, like the crown-less case. Though a 69 mm travel clock is not exactly practical in the context of modern travel, this is certainly a cool object I would love to have on a desk in a hotel. But the appeal is mitigated by the price (which means the hotel would have to be at least a Four Seasons). Despi...
Monochrome
When two become one, greatness can happen, and in the case of these collaborations, greatness has indeed happened. It’s not easy to blend two styles, two philosophies, and two convictions into a single unified product. You want to make sure the integration feels natural, coherent and above all, adds something that neither of the two […]
WristBuzz
The iconic square case gets a La Fabrique du Temps heart and a V12 engine metaphor you can actually watch turning
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