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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,202 articles · 293 videos found · page 37 of 117

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Entry-Level Freak Sep 4, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium

The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case.  But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research.  ...

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Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.

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Creating Cultural Moments at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom with the “Giles” Film Premiere Worn & Wound
Sep 3, 2025

Creating Cultural Moments at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom with the “Giles” Film Premiere

When we first opened the doors to our Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn-based showroom in December of last year, the idea was simple: create a space where people could engage with watches and gear in a more meaningful way. Over the past nine months, that idea has grown into something larger-a cultural hub where community, creativity, and horology all intersect. Recently, the showroom took on a new role as a screening space for the documentary short Giles. Directed by filmmaker and documentarian Taylor Scott Mason, and featuring the work of photographer-turned-watchmaker Giles Clement, this doc dives into the process of designing and building a watch from scratch. On the night of the premiere, the showroom transformed into a small theater with seating for our special guests. Collectors, enthusiasts, and friends of the brand gathered for the screening, which was followed by a live Q&A; with both the director and subject of the film. The conversation offered a behind-the-scenes look not only at the making of the film, but also at both the creative and quirky ups and downs of bringing a watch concept to life in Brooklyn. Taylor Scott Mason brings a rich, global perspective to the film. Originally from Washington state and now based in Brooklyn, Mason moved to New York City in 2006 and has since built a diverse body of work across documentary, commercial, and editorial filmmaking-working in over 50 countries and highlighting his robust experience in storytelling through visual ...

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Sinn U50 Review: The 500m German Diver Under $3,500 Teddy Baldassarre
Sinn Sep 2, 2025

Sinn U50 Review: The 500m German Diver Under $3,500

The Sinn U50 felt like a revelation when it was released in 2020. Sure, it was based on the larger U1, a design that dating back to 2005, but the U50 was the first to make this modern expression of Sinn design language approachable to a broader audience. As a result, the U50 falls into a rare sweet spot in size and design that you usually have to go back to the ‘90s to find. In an era when many of the great tool watch brands of yesterday are pushing upmarket with more luxurious offerings, a brand like Sinn stands defiantly committed to its core strengths. After four years of ownership, the appeal hasn’t waned. The U50 is more relevant than ever, and in my world, it remains the bar for dive watches under $3,500. I’m usually quick to point out that we are spoiled for choice when it comes to premium dive watches these days; as a genre, it’s one that many start-up microbrands are drawn to for its broad market appeal. It’s also a space that’s been heavily watered down (no pun intended) as a result. I hear enthusiasts describe modern examples through the lens of great historical examples, as those seem to be common sources for inspiration for many new (and old) brands. Truly novel ideas expressed in the dive-watch space are few and far between, but there are some truly interesting examples out there. Chief among them, as you may have discerned by now, is the Sinn U50.  Sinn U50 In Context The U50 isn’t a watch that feels like anything else. There is no old-school ...

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Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2025

Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero

Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...

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Berneron Jumps Forward with the Quantième Annuel SJX Watches
Berneron Sep 1, 2025

Berneron Jumps Forward with the Quantième Annuel

One of the headline releases from Geneva Watch Days is, without question, the Berneron Quantième Annuel, a symmetrical annual calendar that brings the brand’s vision into sharper focus. Expensively made and cleverly designed inside and out, the Quantième Annuel is a showcase for founder Sylvain Berneron’s attention to detail. A limited run of 480 pieces in platinum, with production spaced evenly over the next decade, the Quantième Annuel is available in two dial configurations; whether the buyer opts for lacquered silver or piano black, the dial itself, along with much of the movement, is crafted from 18k gold. Initial thoughts I’ve written effusively about user-friendly complications in the past so it should come as no surprise that I like the Quantième Annuel’s legible display and intuitive interface. Visually, it’s a world apart from the oozy Mirage, but it exhibits a similar degree of intellectual sophistication and attention to detail. A jumping hour watch with an instantaneous annual calendar, the Quantième Annuel is distinguished by its oversized windows for the hour, day, and month, with a sector-style dial for the minutes and a concentric retrograde date display. The running seconds dial at six o’clock contains the fourth jumping window for the day/night indicator; a useful addition for any calendar watch. The watch is designed for easy legibility, with the time read top-to-bottom and the date read left-to-right. The sector dial for the minute han...

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Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Fratello
Aug 31, 2025

Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon

Sapphire-cased watches have crept up on me lately. I used to think of them as fragile showpieces, destined for safes rather than wrists, but something has shifted. It probably started with the ArtyA Luminity Wavy collection, which made me stop and think about how sapphire can do more than just look flashy. Now, with Bianchet’s […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon to read the full article.

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Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Jot N Pop, Stirling Timepiece’s Jarvis GMT, and The Return of Iconic Designs From Tom Bihn and Giant Mouse Worn & Wound
Seiko Aug 30, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: The Jot N Pop, Stirling Timepiece’s Jarvis GMT, and The Return of Iconic Designs From Tom Bihn and Giant Mouse

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Stirling Timepieces. Check out the new Jarvis Diver GMT and a link to their website below. Notorious EDC and Big Idea Design Create the Jot N Pop Photo courtesy of Dave Svarte These days, collaboration is the name of the game. Whether it’s teaming up with a famous soda brand (looking at you Seiko and Jack Mason), or two EDC powerhouse brands creating something entirely different. When our team was at Blade Show this year, we got a sneak peak of the first Jot N Pop prototype and knew it was going to be something special.  According to Tom Medovich, “The Jot N’ Pop is what happens when you mash up Big Idea Design’s Pocket Pro with the Beer Bomb. A titanium pen that’s built to do whatever you throw at it, as long as whatever you throw at it is writing stuff down or opening bottles.”  Regardless of how they came up with this idea, we can’t think of a more perfect tool for staying hydrated and taking notes! Built upon the design of the Pocket Pro, the new Jot N Pop is entirely machined from Grade 5 titanium (no plastic parts!), with a pocket clip made from grade 4 Ti for spring tension. Arguably the mos...

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Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder Fratello
Aug 30, 2025

Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder

These days, 3D printing is a well-established technique in manufacturing for R&D; divisions. I’ll never forget visiting the Triumph factory in Hinckley and seeing how future designs are rendered digitally, then printed into 3D forms. These objects provide a hasty method of producing new bike parts and testing structures instead of forging components in more […] Visit Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder to read the full article.

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Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Aug 29, 2025

Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide

The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling -  the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes.  Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...

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Driving Design: European Cars and a Family Heirloom Seamaster Worn & Wound
Aug 29, 2025

Driving Design: European Cars and a Family Heirloom Seamaster

Ansel Iisaka is an industrial designer, watch lover, and European car enthusiast.  Laid back with a thick beard, and often dressed in 1970s-esque attire, Iisaka doesn’t seem like your average mechanic, nor does he reveal much about his deep knowledge of watches. When asked about his propensity for both, he admits that growing up among the enthusiast cars that his father collected, drove hard, and cycled through may have caused him to feel “desensitized to rare or exotic cars.” Instead, he focused on what he calls, “really well-made, practical cars that I could use every day.” The first of these workhorse vehicles? A Volvo 240, one of the most iconic and reliable European cars ever built. Despite earning ASE certification in automotive service while still in high school, Iisaka chose to pursue the pen-and-paper side of his passion for mechanical artistry, and after completing a degree in industrial design, he found himself drafting concepts for several microbrand watch companies-an area he’d never considered before. While Iisaka states that he can’t reveal those projects due to contractual obligations, he has had a hand in designing field watches and vintage skin divers for a well-known microbrand. “I love all well-built mechanical things, especially those that were designed for longevity and repairability,” he explains.  That appreciation for watches wasn’t immediate, though. It took a very special timepiece, handed down to him from his grandfather ...

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Seiko vs. Citizen: Comparing the Icons of Japanese Watchmaking Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Aug 28, 2025

Seiko vs. Citizen: Comparing the Icons of Japanese Watchmaking

Seiko and Citizen are the two undisputed titans among Japanese watch brands, known and admired worldwide for their technical excellence, design acumen, and legendary price-to-value ratio, not to mention the role that both brands have played in the technological and cultural evolution of watchmaking in general. And while these world-renowned companies have been fierce competitors from the beginning, they have a lot in common as well. Here we present a side-by-side comparison of Seiko vs. Citizen, starting with their earliest days and concluding with an overview of what each brand is doing today.  Seiko vs. Citizen: Origins of Two Japanese Watch Pioneers With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene, but one would be mistaken. The company today known as Citizen was founded in 1918 by Kamakechi Yamazaki as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan.  Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid, in 1930 to become Citizen. Joining the expertise of Shokosha’s Japanese watchm...

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Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2025

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT

I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...

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The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2025

The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30

Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. The post The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Greubel Forsey Returns to the Nano Foudroyante SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Returns Aug 28, 2025

Greubel Forsey Returns to the Nano Foudroyante

Launched last year as a concept watch of sorts – and the brand’s first-ever chronograph – the Nano Foudroyante now joins Greubel Forsey’s regular production catalogue, albeit in a small-run limited edition as is convention for the brand. The new Nano Foudroyante retains all of the key elements of the original Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) version – we examined that watch in-depth earlier this year – including the miniaturised lightning seconds mounted on the tourbillon cage. The design also remains the same, but gains colour in the form of a blued seconds scale and blued steel hands, while the case is now entirely in white gold. Initial thoughts The Nano Foudroyante is essentially a cosmetic variation on the original, but it looks notably different, though it feels the same; the watch is dense, heavy, and clearly high quality. The blue accents and faux-fabric rubber strap give the sort of informal, but not quite sporty, appearance that is popular today. In contrast, the original EWT version of the watch was old-school complicated watchmaking in its monochromatic grey-and-silver livery. The two versions still look pretty similar, however, and I would have hoped Greubel Forsey did more to set this apart from the EWT version. Alternatively the EWT iteration could have been made more radical or extreme, which is not a bridge too far for a “experimental” limited edition. That said, the watch is still technically impressive with its novel approach to the fo...

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Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

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M.A.D. Editions Introduces the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Collection, a Collaboration with Artist Yinka Ilori Worn & Wound
MB&F; Aug 27, 2025

M.A.D. Editions Introduces the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Collection, a Collaboration with Artist Yinka Ilori

About a year ago, we got our first peek at the M.A.D.1S, a slimmer and far more wearable version of the original M.A.D.1. This week, we got the first new variant of that watch, a collaboration between the crew at M.A.D. and Yinka Ilori, a British artist and designer known for infusing public spaces with bright colors. The new M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” collection adds a healthy dose of Ilori’s aesthetic to the M.A.D.1 and gives us a look at how future limited editions and variants of M.A.D. Editions pieces might take shape as the brand grows.  At the outset, I think it’s important to acknowledge that M.A.D. Editions is indeed a brand unto itself at this point. What started as a one off project to reward longtime MB&F; collaborators with a cool watch to own in the same spirit of the high horology creations with a much lower price tag has morphed into what could really be called one of the most interesting microbrands going at the moment. I’m not sure if the team at M.A.D. Editions would necessarily self-identify as a microbrand, but of course in these pages it’s a compliment, and reflects a certain amount of ingenuity and creativity while remaining within certain guardrails and parameters around pricing and accessibility.  The “Grow Your Dreams” collection consists of three watches, each taking on a different theme derived from the natural world: Sun, Water, and Nature. All include pretty wild color combinations – there’s no watch here that could be du...

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First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph Monochrome
Aug 27, 2025

First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph

Imaginary vintage… This is the idea behind young indie brand Albishorn, the project of Sebastien Chaulmontet (Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita) and Fabien Collioud (designer). The idea is to create vintage-inspired models that never existed, but that could have been real at a time… Hypothetical watches that can be seen as missing links […]

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Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite If Aug 27, 2025

Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

If one model in the Zenith collection shows the great diversity of the brand’s creative explorations, it’s the Chronomaster Sport. Introduced in 2021, the popular chronograph has quickly become one of the brand’s great successes. Additionally, the design team has used the Chronomaster Sport as a thankful canvas for exploring a wide variety of creative […] Visit Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite to read the full article.

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MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Elements Aug 27, 2025

MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’

The accessibly priced, MB&F;-adjacent wristwatch returns as the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’, a collaboration with Yinka Ilori, a British designer known for applying bright colors to furniture, architecture, and interiors. With three kaleidoscopic colourways – Sun, Nature, and Water – the new M.A.D.1S leans into the maximalist trends of the day, which suits the M.A.D.Editions sub-brand, and MB&F; in general, like a glove. Initial Thoughts I’m reminded of the H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time we covered just last week. Like with those, the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a series of thematic, limited edition collaborations sold via online raffle. And of the flavours on offer here, my favourite is again the Water variant. Collaborations like this can often feel like a one-way street, but that doesn’t feel like the case here. It’s good to know Yinka Ilori was an active participant in the watch’s design, personally designing the stylised numerals on the hour cylinder. I’ll also point out Mr Ilori is the model in all of these wrist shots. As for my thoughts on his work, I own some tableware he designed a few years back – which sits in my cupboard, seldom used but often admired. “Water” The M.A.D.1 series in general are dubious as a value proposition; though they are very affordable for an MB&F;-ish watch, they are pricey for the segment. But that misses the point – few are cross shopping these with similarly priced offerings from Tudor or Longines, or ev...

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