Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex GMT-Master II With Grey And Black Ceramic Bezel
It's not the coke that people expected, but it's a solid under-the-radar option for the lineup.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Rolex Perpetual 1908, In Platinum with Ice-Blue Guilloche dial
Last year, Rolex unveiled a new collection (well, somehow a replacement for the Cellini line) of elegant, highly traditional dress watches, the Perpetual 1908. With a name inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor, it was clear that this new collection was all about traditions. A small seconds display, […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91)
Launched in 1963, the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 was Seiko’s and Japan’s first automatic day-date watch. With its solid water and shock-resistant stainless case and bracelet, practical functions, automatic movement and accessible price, the Seiko 5 became an instant best-seller among young people. Following Seiko’s participation in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, exports of the Seiko 5 […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Urwerk’s Extraordinary SpaceTime Blade Reenters Earth’s Atmosphere
A lightsaber, wielded by Force-sensitive characters in Star Wars, is a luminescent laser sword powered by a kyber crystal. Shaped like a lightsaber, Urwerk’s SpaceTime Blade cuts through all timekeeping mechanisms with its unique display and countless timings related to our planet delivered via glowing orange Nixie bulbs. Marking its reentry into our atmosphere, Urwerk’s […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Passage Celebrates the Present Moment
Since its creation in 2001, MeisterSinger has been seen as the master of the single-hand watch. Unlike most timepieces on the market (at least 99% of them), which display the time with 3 hands – hours, minutes, seconds – MeisterSinger’s models have a different, slightly poetic and slower approach to time with a mono-aiguille that […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option
Next to the vintage-inspired Legend Diver collection, the Longines HydroConquest is a more utilitarian, robust, classic diver, with water-resistance up to 300 metres, a unidirectional, external rotating bezel, a screw-in crown and a screw-down caseback. Following the introduction of the practical, versatile and mostly visually appealing HydroConquest GMT last year in a 41mm case, Longines […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker
“Whoa, this thing is cool” is what I found myself speaking out loud upon opening up the box for the newest collaboration between Nodus Watches and Raven Watches - two forces in the microbrand community that have a solid history of putting out some really great watches. The real question is, what happens when these two team up? Is this the initial meeting of superheros that eventually leads to the Avengers of the watch space? I’m in no place to make that call, but what I can confidently comment about is how this watch looks and feels on the wrist. But like any good saga, we could use a little back story. Nodus Watches are a team based out of Los Angeles, CA with a focus on providing premium timepieces that are durable and innovative, while supporting the rest of the watch community. Whether you’re attending one of their Intersect events that brings smaller brands and their customers together across the US, or checking out their other collabs as part of their Design Lab, there’s a lot to like about Nodus. Raven Watches is based out of Kansas and their timepieces are inspired by travel, adventure, and photography -- making for rugged, versatile timepieces that are built for the long haul. The inspiration behind the TrailTrekker is the perilous journey that many heartlanders from the midwest made from Kansas to California, the home states of each brand. Let’s take a closer look at this noteworthy collab. Case The 39.5mm case is perfectly proportioned for my 6...
Monochrome
Introducing - Genus Goes Sleeker and Simpler, With the Still Singular GNS2 Watch
Genus, an independent brand hailing from Geneva, is the brainchild of Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières. In 2007, Sébastien Billières co-created GMTI, a company specialising in manufacturing of ‘Geneva Seal’ movements for brands, and gained broader recognition in 2019 with the highly acclaimed Genus GNS1, featuring an exotic time display. Fast forward five years, and […]
Worn & Wound
Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs
Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year. This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment. Zach Weiss I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...
Fratello
Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll
It’s probably been five years since I first went hands-on with one of Carl Suchy & Söhne’s watches. It was a memorable experience because the watches struck me as modern yet somehow traditional. On the Waltz N°1, classic dial elements came together with a unique seconds display and an elegant, contemporary case. When the press […] Visit Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Is No Mess, No Logos, No Indices, Just A Great Looking Watch
Just in time for the leap year, it's Moser's integrated sports watch, now with a pared-down perpetual calendar display.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 74 - A Great Week for Fans of Titanium (and the Grand Seiko Snowflake)
Welcome to episode 74 of A Week in Watches! Another solid week of releases, this one is dominated by one brand that just can’t stop, and the most noble of metals – titanium. There’s a new brutish military diver from the mil-spec nerds over at Tornek-Rayville, some crystallized dress watches from Baltic, a simply handsome titanium chronograph from Zenith, and a ton of stuff from Grand Seiko. Like, a ton. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe if you haven’t already! This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and the new Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. The first collaboration between the two brands, its sci-fi-inspired style will stand out in any collection. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 74 – A Great Week for Fans of Titanium (and the Grand Seiko Snowflake) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Introducing - A Vintage Take on the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365
Taking its inspiration from yesteryear’s rudimentary tower and table clocks, MeisterSinger has built a solid brand around a rather unusual premise: all its watches are equipped with a single hand. Although a single hand might be equated with simple watches, MeisterSinger defies expectations and has escalated the complications ladder with everything from calendar indications to […]
Fratello
The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models
The Lapinist Watch Studio is a well-known source for case restorations of vintage Grand and King Seiko watches. Aside from his work, Kamil Rybarczyk, the Lapinist himself, also handcrafts display backs for these watches. Today, we’re pleased to report that his newest project is ready, and it should be sweet music to the ears of […] Visit The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement
To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...
Fratello
Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong
As watch lovers, we tend to be drawn to mechanical movements. There is something mysterious about the dozens of springs, wheels, pinions, jewels, screws, and plates that conspire to unwind a mainspring and turn its stored tension into a precise display of the time. I think the allure is in the fact that it is […] Visit Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V in Carbon Composite
A lightweight version of Urwerk’s most affordable model, the UR-100V “Lightspeed” retains the signature wandering hours time and carbon composite case of the earlier “C52” model. The Lightspeed, however, gains a facelift with a display that tracks the speed of light from the Sun traveling through the solar system. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Lightspeed may appear similar to the standard UR-100V. Yet, closer scrutiny reveals distinct features, most notably a display indicating the time it takes for light to travel to each of the planets in our solar system. Furthermore, the black carbon case easily complements the aesthetic of the watch. Attention to detail was paid to the light speed display, which also incorporates a new, streamlined cover for the central carousel. And of course the calculations required for the display were clearly substantial. That being said, the display might not be for everyone, as all of the text crowds the dial. A more streamlined arrangement of the planet names or even symbols might have worked better. The Lightspeed retails for CHF65,000 with a limited but unrevealed production run. As Urwerk’s entry-level watch, the new UR-100V is a reasonable proposition in terms of independent watchmaking. However, it has competition from Urwerk’s own catalogue, where the titanium “Magic T” with a matching bracelet (albeit with a simpler case construction) costs CHF10,000 less. Tracing the speed of light The new model is named a...
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Wins Inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize
In its first year, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives has been awarded to Raúl Pagès and his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. Selected by a five-person jury, the RP1 triumphed over five finalists, including Andreas Strehler with his Tischkalender Sympathique and Petermann Bedat and its Reference 2941 split-seconds chronograph. A watchmaker, restorer, and automaton maker, Mr Pagès’ winning entry is a time-only wristwatch with a regulator-style display, and more importantly, a movement of his own design with a detent escapement. Historically found in precision marine chronometers, detent escapements are highly accurate but typically not shock resistant, a problem Mr Pagès solved by taking inspiration from a 19th century escapement design. As a result, his escapement is shock resistant enough for everyday use in a wristwatch. Besides technical features, the RP1 movement also boasts a high level of decoration that is artisanal in nature and accomplished by hand. The finishing, architecture, and construction are all classical in style, reflecting Mr Pagès experience as a restorer, most notably at Parmigiani, perhaps the most respected restoration workshop in Switzerland. A drawing a traditional detent escapement (left), and the RP1 detent escapement Tearing up as he gave his acceptance speech, Mr Pagès’ win is a milestone in a career that actually started over a decade ago. His skill and dedication were recognised by the jury, made up of Carole Forest...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More!
We’re back to our usual broadcasting with episode 73 of A Week in Watches. 2024 has gotten off to a solid start with several cool new releases and some interesting projects. This week, we take a look at the first new Speedy of the year, a wild project from Seiko, a fantastic calendar chrono from Zenith, and the revival of a vintage favorite from Longines. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus First up this week is some stylish bling, a vintage 1958 solid 14k gold Benrus. The solid gold case has unusual fancy lugs and a slim bezel, and is on the smaller side at 32mm wide. There is a super cool personalized engraving from Booth’s 25 Year Club. Yeah, I don’t know what that is either, but the engraving really is a good one. The silver dial is superb with the classic Benrus logo and tri-color bar beneath it. There are applied gold arrow markers for most of the hours, and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. No date, but a classy sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This is a nice stylish dress watch that has the under-the-radar bling with the solid gold case. No movement pic, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Seiko 66-7109 “Blue Tuxedo” Here’s a great vintage hand-wound Seiko on the original bracelet. The bold blue bullseye style dial really pops without being garish, and it’s in fantastic condition. There are applied steel markers and no date – this is a great looking dial. The steel case is 36mm and unpolished, with nice sharp edges, and it also has the original crown. The Seiko caliber 66 manual wind movement is crisp ...
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I
Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches in Gold
Nearly half a century ago, in 1975, Bulgari embarked on a horological voyage that would forever alter the watch design landscape. With only a few watch creations bearing its name, Bulgari showed opulence by gifting 100 gold digital display watches to its most esteemed clients. This bold yet elegantly simple timepiece christened Bulgari Roma, encapsulated […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Titoni Seascoper 600 Retro
Presented in 2020, the Titoni Seascoper 600 is a robust dive watch with solid credentials – including a water-resistance of 600m, a helium-relief valve and a COSC-certified proprietary automatic movement. Available in different variants, this Titoni is now offered in a new steel version with a handsome blue dial version featuring retro touches such as […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Code41 Moon Inception
Today, we’ll take a look at the new Code41 Moon Inception. The latest model from the popular independent brand includes a moonphase display along with the option of a chronometer certification. As we’ll see, the watch offers a very different take on the complication, and I think it succeeds in its execution. I’ll kick this […] Visit Introducing: The Code41 Moon Inception to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Cartier “A Journey Through Time” in Singapore
Documenting the origins and evolution of the jeweller’s best-known timepieces, A Journey Through Time is now taking place at Cartier’s flagship boutique in Singapore located in the ION Orchard mall. Continuing until February 2, 2024, the exhibition explores the brand’s history through a curated display of historical timepieces, ranging from classic, early-20th century examples to quintessential Cartier London designs of the Swinging Sixties. The watches on show trace the development of form cases, from rectangles to ovals and everything in between, which came to symbolise the brand. These case shapes, as well as the familiar Roman numerals and blued hands, are now integral elements of Cartier’s design lexicon. Some of the earliest watches on display including a Santos (1926), Tonneau (1911), and Tortue monopoussoir chronograph (1936) Signature Cartier London examples (from left), JJC (1974), Maxi Oval (1969), and Pebble (1972) According to Cartier, the inspiration for this exhibition came from Time Project, a collection of 12 short films directed by the Norwegian fashion photographer and filmmaker Sølve Sundsbø. Starring American actor Jake Gyllenhaal, the films captured the brand’s relationship with time and are playing on screens in the exhibition area showing the brand’s current models. However, enthusiasts will be there primarily for the 23 timepieces from the Cartier Collection, the brand’s treasure trove of vintage watches, clocks, jewellery, and ot...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue PVD (Incl. Video)
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon is a regular candidate in our buying guides dedicated to accessibly priced sports watches. With its 1970s-shaped sports watch vibe, integrated bracelet, easy strap exchange system, solid build, automatic movement and competitive price, the Aikon ticks the boxes associated with this popular segment. The latest model to join the family is […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bremont Limited Series in Partnership with the Royal National Lifeboat Institution
Over the years, British luxury watch brand Bremont has distinguished itself by offering diverse timepieces “tested beyond endurance” across the Sea, Land, and Air collections and for having established a solid connection with armed forces. The brand has dedicated a significant portion of its catalogue to special and limited editions, aligning with its commitment to […]
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold
In 2019, Moritz Grossmann ventured into the scarcely populated territory of rectangular watches, unveiling three dial variants in five different versions as part of the Art Deco-inspired and appropriately named Corner Stone series. The Corner Stone featured a specially designed shaped calibre with a central hour and minutes display and a small seconds sub-dial at […]
Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection
Since its release in 2005, the Master Collection has enjoyed pride-of-place in Longines’ line of watches. With its mix of contemporary appeal and timeless charm, the Master Collection remains a reliable favorite for those looking to enjoy this Swiss watch brand. And now, Longines has expanded the Master series with two solid gold versions featuring a GMT complication in the aptly named Master Collection GMT. Admirers of the brand can now enjoy the option of either an 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold. With these two new references, Longines is showing us the versatility of these classic silhouettes, allowing a wearer to dress this watch up – or down – to better fit one’s lifestyle. Sitting at 40mm, this case will give any wrist some presence while the frosted silver dial softens the overall appearance. It’s the small details of this dial, in fact, which really show the attention that Longines has put into the Master Collection. This includes a 24-hour scale in Arabic numerals on the rim, cleverly reversed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for convenient second time zone reading. A railroad minute track separates these Arabic numerals from the Roman numerals of the applied gold hour markers. Adding functionality, a discreet date aperture is placed at 6 o’clock. Elegant gold hands mark the hours, minutes, and seconds, while the GMT hand, accentuated in black, aligns with the 24-hour scale numerals for enhanced readability of the second time zone. Both new re...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer Chronograph
Buzz Aldrin's footprint is visible on the moonphase display. Seriously.