3,615 articles · 706 videos found · page 37 of 145
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen has a very unique history when it comes to perpetual calendars. Naturally, this immediately brings to mind one particular figure: Kurt Klaus. His remarkable perpetual calendar module has left a mark on the history of watchmaking, notably as one of the most user-friendly systems ever created, where all adjustments can be made simply […]
Time+Tide
Trilobe has just made its most consequential move yet: the opening of a full manufacture in the heart of the Opéra district of Paris.The post Trilobe’s new Paris manufacture is a new chapter for French independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hungarian independent watchmaker Aaron Becsei, long known for his expert craftsmanship and flamboyant designs, has rebranded and launched the Becsei J.Z.A., a finely made time-only watch with a more digestible design that should broaden his reach with contemporary collectors. Like Mr Becsei’s earlier work, the J.Z.A. is substantially handmade and will be produced in limited numbers - eight pieces, to be specific. Initial thoughts Aaron Bescei is an independent watchmaker of the old school - a craftsman with the bench experience to produce a watch from scratch. This aspect of his craft is noteworthy in a segment crowded with engineers and constructors that typically farm out finishing and assembly. He’s also been around awhile, having been granted admittance to the AHCI in 2009, though for more than a decade he’s traded under the phonetic pronunciation of his name, Bexei. After a relatively quiet period, the third-generation Hungarian independent watchmaker returns with a rebranded business and a new round watch that manages to stand out despite its now-common format. Mr Bescsei’s previous watches were extravagantly finished with impressively wide, rounded bevels and other lovely details. In many ways, he was a decade ahead of the demand for such watches, but his designs were often maximalist and baroque. His earlier watches, the Dignitas, in particular, featured a massive rectangular case and engraved scrollwork - an aesthetic in tension with contemporary tas...
Fratello
When I heard Gagà Laboratorio was launching its first dive watch, the Aqualab, I was skeptical. The brand’s distinct identity made me question how it would translate into a sportier, tool-oriented direction. That’s a testament to the uniqueness of its design language, not a criticism of its existing watches. The Labormatic, for example, always struck […] Visit Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Omega Constellation First up this week is a nice vintage Omega Constellation. Now, this isn’t the more well known pie-pan version, but it’s still a stunning piece made with the same attention to detail. This is a later 1960s version, with a large “C” style case that is in excellent condition. Nice crisp edges with the original brushed and polished finish. The caseback observatory medallion is not an added gold piece, but rather engraved directly into the steel back. The crown is signed and looks correct. The dial has a beautiful cross-hatch linen texture to it, with thin stick markers and stick hands. There is a day/date window at three o’clock. Dial looks clean and original. The watch comes on the original brick link bracelet, although one of the links is broken and it will need repair. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Seiko JDM Sport Diver Here’s a great Seiko diver that is a modern re-issue of a vintage model. In the late 1990s Seiko did a series of Sport Diver re-issues with modern specs and movements. These are a great way to have that vintage vibe but not have to worry about babying the watch. This one has a tonneau shaped...
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Monochrome
Following the enamel-dialled Coquille d’œuf, Dutch brand Lebois & Co expands its Atelier sub-collection with the Heritage Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc. The concept remains: take the established Heritage Chronograph format and upgrade it through traditional dial-making techniques. The case is identical to previous Lebois & Co Atelier models. Made of stainless steel, it measures 39mm in diameter, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
When it comes to household-name Swiss watch brands, Omega is near the top of the list, and for plenty of good reasons. Now more than 175 years old, the company can lay claim to several icons of the watchmaking world. They’ve also never relented in their pursuit of cutting edge chronometric technology, with many innovat
Monochrome
Jacob & Co has followed a truly extraordinary trajectory within the Swiss watchmaking landscape, standing apart through the very nature of its creations. The brand is renowned for pieces that are strikingly expressive in their design yet equally arresting for their technical sophistication and complexity. Among the many remarkable creations unveiled by the brand, one […]
Fratello
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
An iconic Swiss watchmaker, known for avant-garde designs and inventive movements, picks up where it left off.More
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Monochrome
Delbana, founded in 1931 by Goliardo Della Balda, has always delivered classical Swiss watchmaking at approachable prices. The brand launched the stainless steel Della Balda in 2021, later followed by a PVD yellow gold version in 2022, as a tribute to Goliardo and also returned to using mechanical movements. For its 95th anniversary, the brand […]
Fratello
There’s something very satisfying about seeing a watchmaker push a familiar idea a little further without losing the thing that made it appealing in the first place. That was my first reaction to the new Qian GuoBiao Skylight Original and Skylight Sun. On paper, the concept is simple enough. This is Qian GuoBiao’s first partially […] Visit Qian GuoBiao’s New Skylight Models Might Just Be My Favorite Watches From Him Yet to read the full article.
Monochrome
Angelus is a historical Swiss watch brand founded in 1891 in Le Locle by Albert and Gustav Stolz, known for technically ambitious and award-winning chronographs, multi-complication watches and even chiming models. After a long period of dormancy following the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in 2011. Tapping into its rich archive, Angelus has gathered […]
SJX Watches
Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...
Worn & Wound
I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...
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SJX Watches
Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...
SJX Watches
Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation. After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...
Monochrome
As announced about a year ago, Corum is back in Swiss hands following a management buyout after the exit of Chinese Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group. As Watches and Wonders is fast approaching, it is time for the new management to lift the veil on their strategy to get the brand back on track and […]
Teddy Baldassarre
These iconic style purveyors have made serious bids for high-horology cred. More
Teddy Baldassarre
When it comes to household-name Swiss watch brands, Omega is near the top of the list, and for plenty of good reasons. Now more than 175 years old, the company can lay claim to several icons of the watchmaking world. They’ve also never relented in their pursuit of cutting edge chronometrric technology, with many innova
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Monochrome
Stockholm-based, Dutch-rooted microbrand Maen is now a rather familiar face, being known for compelling and accessible watches such as the Skymaster Chronograph or the Manhattan series. Last year, however, the young brand made quite some noise by collaborating with Nico Leonard, a fellow Dutch watch YouTuber, widely known for his outspoken style. The result was a fresh, […]
Time+Tide
Swiss independent Arsène Lippens keeps things toned down for its new Classico Collection, but it lets the fine details do the talkingThe post Is restrained refinement the new attention grabber? Arsène Lippens new Classico Collection aims to find out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Dutch-born CEO of Swiss brand Frederique Constant talks value, pricing, volumes, success with women's watches, and the challenging U.S. market.
Hodinkee
The head of the storied Swiss dive watch brand prioritizes affordability even as much of the industry goes premium. Plus, Tim Jeffreys drops by to talk about Grand Seiko's new brand ambassador, Shohei Ohtani.
Hodinkee
The head of the Swiss movement maker explains the economics of producing the engines that drive timepieces.
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