Deployant
New: Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire
Presenting Louis Moinet's Geveva Watch Days release. It's their second integrated bracelet watch, the Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d'Observatoire.
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Deployant
Presenting Louis Moinet's Geveva Watch Days release. It's their second integrated bracelet watch, the Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d'Observatoire.
SJX Watches
Breguet’s quarter-millennial celebrations continue with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a reprise of the unique piece created for Only Watch two years ago. The world time wristwatch now returns with a phosphorescent enamel dial – that is notably grand feu on sapphire crystal – and a case in “Breguet Gold”. While the attire is new, the Hora Mundi 5555 still retains the clever movement that has a world time function that is instantaneously switchable between two pre-set time zones and unique amongst travel watches. Initial Thoughts Breguet facelifted the aging Marine line starting about eight years ago, but the integrated bracelet design language still feels fresh, though arguably remains unproven compared to long-established peers in the luxury sports watch segment. The Marine Équation Marchante 5887, which introduced the new look, leaned heavily on its excellent movement – it’s perhaps the best equation of time complication yet made – as a crutch supporting an experimental design. More practical and simpler models followed; the Marine Hora Mundi is certainly practical but not simple. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is likewise powered by an impressive movement, and one incorporating a complication apt for a sports watch, but the watch also has a metiers d’art distinction with its enamel dial. That is unusual for a sports watch, but the Marine is an unusual sports watch. The enamelling itself is even more unusual, done on sapphire using phosphorescent pigments, ...
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin's Geneva Watch Days 2025 release is the sort of watch The Joker might wear.The post Speake-Marin’s new Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour is a purple power play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When it comes to delivering classic-looking, good-quality watches that are usually fully equipped and nicely finished, you can always count on Tissot. Whether it’s a sporty, integrated watch, such as the PRX Automatic, a vintage-looking looker, such as the PR516, a modern all-rounder like the Gentleman or something elegantly old-school as the Heritage 1938 COSC, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The video is a long-term ownership reflection on Sinn’s 556 I. Teddy explains why the watch earned its “cult classic” reputation: clean, highly legible dial, compact and wearable proportions, and a no-nonsense tool-watch identity that works in almost any setting. The tone is practical rather than hyped: this is about h
Teddy Baldassarre
Even though it seems like watches have been around forever - at least judging by the ongoing heat of the pre-owned and vintage market and its influence on modern design - they are actually a relatively modern addition to human civilization, and have only been widely worn on the wrist for a little over 100 years. The history of the watch, however, has roots that run far deeper, to the very beginnings of timekeeping by humans. Here we briefly explore the watch’s origins and its development into a modern-day accessory and tool and attempt to answer the question, "When were wristwatches invented?" (Very) Early Timekeeping Modern timekeeping devices can all be traced back to the sundials and water clocks developed by the ancient Egyptians and used by the early Babylonians, Greeks, and Chinese. The influence of these ancient methods and devices resonates deeply to this day when it comes to contemporary timekeeping. In fact, it’s even made for some questionable stories that have nonetheless been shared as a type of folk history. For example, it is said that the clockwise movement of a clock is due to early timekeepers mimicking the movement of sundials, which, obviously, move from east to west. Of course, this theory doesn’t take into account that it would only hold true in the Northern Hemisphere, as someone in the southern hemisphere would see the sundial move counterclockwise. But back to what we know to be true... These relatively primitive devices eventually gave r...
Monochrome
Celebrating 250 years as a watch brand is a remarkable achievement in itself. However, if it’s a brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, there are plenty of reasons to celebrate. Paying homage to this significant milestone, Breguet has released four anniversary editions in Breguet gold cases. The fifth […]
Time+Tide
This multi-layered world timer is a particularly sumptuous take on a Breguet sports watch, and boasts customisable world time cities.The post Breguet continues its 250th anniversary celebrations with the stunning dual-dialled Marine Hora Mundi 5555 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The field watch icon gets a subtle complication in a series of new 40mm models.
Fratello
Panerai was first introduced to the public on September 10th, 1993. Until that time, the brand only made watches for military personnel. This is easy to forget, as Panerai quickly became a public fixture in the watch universe. This year, on the anniversary of its 1993 debut, Panerai unveils The Depths of Time at its […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 to read the full article.
Deployant
Released last week at Geneva Watch Days, Frederique Constant adds three new variations to their budget friendly Perpetual Calendar.
Time+Tide
Continuing the 150th anniversary celebrations, AP has brought us a host of crown-controlled QPs and rich stone dial tourbs.The post Audemars Piguet marks 150 years with 38 mm QPs and stone‑dial tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...
Teddy Baldassarre
To be honest, most people in the know would agree that “cheapest” and “Patek Philippe” don’t really even belong in the same sentence together. That said, for many serious watch collectors, even those just starting out, one’s first Patek Philippe is both a Holy Grail and a milestone purchase to be carefully, thoughtfully planned out and saved for. And most of those aficionados are still going to be entering the brand’s world at the ground floor rather than the penthouse. So what are these “entry level” Patek Philippe watches, i.e., the models actually priced with a first-time buyer in mind? First off, we should establish why Patek Philippe watches are so coveted in the first place by laying out a bit of history. Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philipp...
Monochrome
Some watches truly need to be seen in person and worn on the wrist to be fully understood and appreciated. A flat digital rendering or a simple image doesn’t do them justice. You could easily argue that this is true for most timepieces, but in reality, there are occasions where you know the watch is […]
Worn & Wound
I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind. Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability. With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal. Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...
Deployant
Last week, during Geneva Watch Days 2025 gérald genta unveils The Minute Repeater. Here is the release inforrmation and our commentary.
Monochrome
With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has undergone a sea change, and many feared that its rugged tool watches would be transformed beyond recognition. However, earlier this year, fans were pleased to discover the new Altitude MB Meteor, an incredibly resilient pilot’s watch based on the former MB1. Part of the refreshed Altitude […]
SJX Watches
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
Fratello
When my eyes first caught a glimpse of the Beda’a Angles in the late summer of last year, I was immediately intrigued. The watch features a classic case shape but doesn’t feel retro. Instead, it feels like a next step in the development of modern dress watches. Notably, though, the inaugural Angles collection was a […] Visit Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]
Worn & Wound
Minimal, quartz, stone dial dress watches with “TV-cases” would have been a hard sell with watch enthusiasts just a few years ago, but you wouldn’t know it from Dennison’s rapid rise in popularity. The historic British brand, twice revived, has been one-to-watch in the last year, having launched the ALD line of watches fitting the description mentioned above just last October (2024) to great success. Perfectly timed for the seemingly capricious swings of the enthusiast zeitgeist, the combination of a 60s/70s shaped case, clean, expansive stone dials, effortless style, and approachable price point made them an easy sell for those who wanted to dabble with an aesthetic that was previously the domain of luxury jewelry watch brands. Less than a year since launch, Dennison is back and, quite literally, doubling down on their inaugural line’s success with the ALD Dual Time. An extension of the first line, as the name suggests, the Dual Times can tell the time in more than one location, but do so in a decidedly direct and retro method. They have two movements. Positioned on either side of the dial, with independent crowns on either side of the case, these twin quartz tickers (though it should be noted there are no seconds hands) allow for differences down to the minute. Convenient for the rare 15 or 30-minute timezone change, or perhaps tracking a friend who is always 10 minutes late, this layout is as easy to read as it is visually dynamic. The close proximity of the t...
Fratello
Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.
Monochrome
The everyday watch, the one-watch collection… A timepiece that blends ruggedness with refinement, capable of moving seamlessly from the office desk to the mountain trail. This is what Hanhart set out to achieve with the Preventor HD12, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s vision of a modern, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. Compact, scratch-resistant and deliberately simple, […]
Time+Tide
The Florence-based independent watch brand returns with a slim and stylish take on a GADA dive watch.The post Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
While the name Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is associated with some of the most successful and enduring watch designs of the 20th century, the designer also expressed his creativity through his own brand, Gerald Charles. Following the designer’s death, the Gerald Charles brand was revived by Federico Zivani. Inspired by an idiosyncratic case designed by Gérald […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. An EDC update from Peter McKinnon When it comes to blending Every Day Carry, photography, and story telling, few people manage to do it like Peter McKinnon does. Over the years, Peter has grown his youtube channel to almost 6 million subscribers, while pulling back the curtain on his creative process and offering useful tips and tricks along the way. In his most recent video, Peter goes through his EDC as we head into fall. One of the most interesting items Peter talks about is his watch, a Marathon GSAR (Ref. WW194006SS-0130). Long time fans of the channel will likely have heard Peter mention watches before, but this is one of the first times that we’ve seen Peter dive into the specs and speak about how and why a certain watch made its way onto his wrist. Check out the video above for his full reasoning! The New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 When the Citizen Tsuyosa debuted in 2023, Zach Kazan was quick to state that “Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option.” Now, almost two years later, the Tsuyosa line has rapidly grown to include numerous colorways, two case sizes, ...
Monochrome
Following the recent release of the DB25xs Starry Varius, De Bethune continues to refine its icons with the launch of the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon, another watch that distils the brand´s design language and technical savoir-faire into a more compact format. Drawing on the thin profile of last year’s DB28XP Kind of Blue (43mm […]
Monochrome
Since its debut, the Angles collection has been the cornerstone of Beda’a. Instantly recognisable with its octagonal bezel set upon a sharply angled case middle, the watch embodies geometric precision and refined minimalism. Its stepped layers are finished with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving the design an architectural presence that appeals to both men […]
Monochrome
Yema continues to expand its Millésime Editions with yet another statement piece. The new Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 takes the brand’s most iconic model, the Superman diver introduced in 1963, and reimagines it as a professional-grade tool watch equipped with a manufacture movement with a tourbillon regulator. Usually reserved for rather fragile dress watches, the […]
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