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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ball Watch es may not be Mar 9, 2022

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review

What we like: Great looking watch with solid engineeringExcellent fit and finishComfortable on the wrist What we didn’t : Crown guard may feel fiddly for day-to-day useSharpish edges on the claspNot the easiest watch to change straps Overall rating: 8.125 /10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 First things first. Let’s all get our minds out of the gutter and leave the crude, juvenile schoolyard jokes behind. We’re better than that. Aren’t we? Yes, I get that jokes about balls are just too easy and we should all rise above it and move on to more sophisticated humour. Probably. Ball watches may not be front of mind for the vast majority of us considering a watch purchase, but it really shouldn’t be overlooked… once you get past the name… Yes, I know what I typed just in the previous paragraph. But it’s just too easy. As the size of your balls, all the best quality of the watches are hidden, away from prying eyes. But once you dive deeper you’ll see that perhaps these inner qualities are worth a second glance. Or three. To be honest, much like the rest of you, I’ve not given the Balls a second glance. Even though I’ve known about the brand for a long time, the only thing that I knew about them was their glow-in-the-dark capabilities, thanks to their tritium gas tube technology. Other than that, to me, they were just another brand utilising reliable workhorse movements from ETA/sellita, but not much else stood o...

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches

When I was about a year into teaching myself electric guitar in high school, I couldn’t dream of a better job than working in a music store. To be surrounded by a huge array of instruments that I would usually be staring at online, tinkering with electronics and fixing vintage gear just sounded like pure … ContinuedThe post How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: A Vulcain Cricket With Presidential (or Vice-Presidential?) Provenance Hodinkee
Vulcain Feb 22, 2022

In-Depth: A Vulcain Cricket With Presidential (or Vice-Presidential?) Provenance

You may know the Vulcain Cricket as the watch worn by several US Presidents, but today Eric takes us deep into the background of the piece and shows us one incredibly rare watch - a 1950s Vulcain Cricket complete with the Presidential Seal printed right on the dial. This you do not see every day, people. Click on for a really detailed look at the Cricket, plus an examination of this very special piece.

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork Time+Tide
Rado Jan 20, 2022

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork

If you’re an ambitious tennis player, you could do a whole lot worse than start wearing a Rado. Consider the evidence. Former ambassador, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012 and the next year he became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936. Adding further credence to Rado’s lucky-charm powers, Ash Barty … ContinuedThe post Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon: The Goldilocks Tourbillon? It’s Definitely Not Your Average Blue-Dialed Stainless Steel Sports Watch – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Dec 18, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon: The Goldilocks Tourbillon? It’s Definitely Not Your Average Blue-Dialed Stainless Steel Sports Watch – Reprise

Launch yet another me-too blue-dialed steel sports watch today and you can expect flack. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is, you guessed it, a blue-dialed steel sporty watch. But as Joshua Munchow explains, it's much more than that. And you'll probably really like it.

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2021

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show

Are you reeling from the finale of Succession, too? Over the nine episodes of the third season, the HBO show has consistently upped the dramatic ante, combining Machiavellian politics with sibling rivalry and filial warfare. Sure, that may just sound like the ingredients of your average family Christmas. But part of Succession’s giddy appeal – … ContinuedThe post Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S Dec 12, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs

EDITOR’S NOTE: What’s that you say? You don’t have a spare $6.5m kicking around to buy a Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 like the one that sold at auction yesterday? Join the club. Luckily, you don’t have to either as this list suggests a few budget-friendly alternatives.  Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Nov 13, 2021

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30°

With the recent announcement that Greubel Forsey will be instituting a new program called Renaissance d’une Montre as of 2023, which will allow collectors to change anything they like about their watches, Tim Mosso finds it a good time to revisit what is perhaps the brand’s most underrated ultra haut-de-gamme option for collectors of modern watchmaking, the Double Tourbillon 30°.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal

The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs.  I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs Hodinkee
Breguet Oct 3, 2021

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs

The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?

EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands

I remember a time when many within the watch community spoke of microbrands like they were some passing phase – an unfortunate result of someone with too much time on their hands and not enough sense. To these pundits, the watches that microbrands were offering would always be lesser-than anything a major, established brand could … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth Time+Tide
Zenith conquered Sep 16, 2021

Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth

Things generally don’t work out too well when brands try to “own” a colour. Cadbury lost a five-year court battle to register their Dairy Milk shade of purple as a trademark for their chocolate bars, while the oil giant BP was similarly out of luck in its long-running bid to claim the colour green in … ContinuedThe post Shades of blue: How Zenith conquered an entire colour by stealth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 4, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black –  the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials Time+Tide
Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles Sep 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials

Are the bold, dazzling stone dials of yesteryear making a comeback? After the unexpected releases from H.Moser earlier this year it does seem like it, and I for one am applauding. I mean why be wrist-shy, when one of the main reasons for a wristwatch in 2021 isn’t to tell the time, but more as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10 Omega Watches On Olympic Wrists At The Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games Quill & Pad
Omega Watches Aug 11, 2021

10 Omega Watches On Olympic Wrists At The Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games

With the 2020/2021 Olympic Games now in the (record) books, Nick Gould and Elizabeth Doerr can look back on a record number of watch spots for one event – but they certainly didn’t flag up every single watch they noticed. Here Elizabeth shares a listing of ten athletes at the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games who wore watches while competing by Omega, the official sponsor of the Olympic Games.

OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage

EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t get hoodwinked by the marketing spin of the vintage watch world. That’s the advice of Dan Kaufman, a veteran Australian journalist who got in touch with this thought-provoking column. If you’ve got a watch-related subject you’d like to get off your chest, drop us a line at: info@timeandtimewatches.com. Let’s start by stating … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

David Candaux Introduces the Streamlined DC7 Genesis SJX Watches
Jul 16, 2021

David Candaux Introduces the Streamlined DC7 Genesis

David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Jul 12, 2021

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph

First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…)  This...

MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400

I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.