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Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob) Time+Tide
Nov 18, 2020

Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob)

Editor’s note: The news out of Geneva overnight is that Watches & Wonders 2021 (formerly SIHH) is cancelled, unsurprisingly citing the “current health crisis and uncertainties as to how the situation may evolve”. To be honest, it feels like only last week that we were reporting on the cancellation of Watches & Wonders 2020, with … ContinuedThe post Watches & Wonders 2021 is cancelled, so here are our affordable favourites from last year (sob) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Nov 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll probably know that Audemars Piguet are well known for their skill in making tourbillons. This year alone, the Le Brassus-based brand has released a number of tourbillon watches, which we’ve covered here, here and here, but Audemars Piguet isn’t slowing down. Today the watchmaker announced the release … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm is a bridge between the past and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag Time+Tide
Tudor Oyster Prince has Nov 17, 2020

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag

To the average punter, casual enthusiast or proper aficionado, there is one brand that manages to muscle itself into just about every current conversation about watches. And the king rightly wears the crown.  But there’s a problem for many, should they intend to deepen their own relationship with Rolex. Namely, the inflated prices that we … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner … Nov 16, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire

Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: We covered rockstars last week, but let’s revisit rappers… Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2020

EDITOR’S PICK: We covered rockstars last week, but let’s revisit rappers…

We recently published a trilogy of stories as part of our Rockstars Rocking Vintage series and it got us thinking … but what about rappers? Fortunately, back in March, James Robinson covered the wristwear of two of the biggest superstars in the game. Both known for killer timepieces, it only made sense we explored Drake … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: We covered rockstars last week, but let’s revisit rappers… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet Time+Tide
Bausele Nov 15, 2020

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet

Sydney-based watch brand Bausele has been confirmed to produce two watches with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) to mark their centenary. The RAAF’s 100th anniversary will be marked by two special watches that contain parts of RAAF aircraft. The last time the RAAF actually commissioned a watch was in the 1940s, when they commissioned … ContinuedThe post Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2020

#shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore

Earlier this week, we shared our thoughts on phrases we are completely guilty of using at times, but wondered if it would be best to retire them. We’re not declaring right or wrong here, but rather just initiating a bit of a thought experiment and evaluating what effect our cultural rhetoric (so to speak) has … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay Reader’s Choice: These are the three phrases you don’t want watch media to misuse anymore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I spat out my drink” - Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense Time+Tide
Patek Philippe curiously not making … Nov 12, 2020

“I spat out my drink” - Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense

As with any awards show, there can be a discrepancy between which watches fans think should have won and the watches that actually win. And it has to be said that the divide between popular and GPHG opinion is something of a canyon these days, with mega-brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe curiously not making … ContinuedThe post “I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang Time+Tide
Hublot has nailed Nov 12, 2020

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang

Let’s face it – blue is a very saturated colour throughout the novelties of 2020. This is not necessarily due to a lack of creativity. If anything, it is fan service: brands truly working to provide what the people want. Hublot, on the other hand, is not one to just follow a trend – they … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes font was created Nov 12, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium

Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Nov 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie

Saving the best for last, Patek Philippe has just announced the Ref. 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie. Powered by a movement derived from that in the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G uber-complication, the new Grande Sonnerie is impressively complicated – which is why Patek Philippe set up a dedicated workshop for its assembly – yet surprisingly thin. Unlike the Grandmaster Chime that was a multi-complication, the ref. 6301P is a focused mechanical masterpiece: a grande and petite sonnerie, striking the time en passant, or as it passes. But it is also a carillon, striking on three pairs of hammers and gongs, instead of the usual two. All its mechanical accomplishment is dressed in classical style, with an aesthetic reminiscent of the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – a black enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a recessed case band. Initial thoughts With a movement derived from the Calibre 300 found in the Grandmaster Chime, the Grande Sonnerie is almost as large, a necessity due to the size of the movement. At 44.8 mm in diameter, the Grande Sonnerie is a large watch, but it is surprisingly thin at just 12 mm high, which is perhaps unsurprising given Patek Philippe’s traditional inclination towards thin watches. Unlike the brand’s other extra-large grand complications, like the Grandmaster Chime or Sky Moon Tourbillon, the Grande Sonnerie has a more restrained, traditional design. Though imposing, it looks reasonably elegant due to the pared-back styling and subtle ...

WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch Time+Tide
Nov 10, 2020

WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch

Anyone who knows anything about watches knows that watchmaking is hard. And anyone who knows anything about watchmaking knows that the bar set by George Daniels is extremely high. But despite these daunting challenges, there is a young watchmaker in Canberra, Australia, who is making a complete tourbillon pocket watch according to the George Daniels … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGZ005 Nov 9, 2020

INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260

Grand Seiko recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of the brand, and released an amazing collection of six watches in honour of the occasion. But now another two anniversaries are on the horizon – and they are big ones. 2021 will mark the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Nov 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink

Conversations around gender politics are mostly avoided within the watch world, for a multitude of reasons. Arguments tend to get in the way of the mutual appreciation for the hobby, just like any contentious topic, but there is a glaring problem with how most companies go about their watch marketing. Opinions aside, that absolutely anyone … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology -  which is better value? Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology -  which is better value?

Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches … ContinuedThe post Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hanhart just quietly released the 417ES, a Pilot’s watch famously worn by McQueen, and it’s a sleeper vintage monster Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2020

Hanhart just quietly released the 417ES, a Pilot’s watch famously worn by McQueen, and it’s a sleeper vintage monster

Does this seem familiar? Yes, the popular bronze Hanhart chronograph recently released by some good friends of ours, seen on a Time+Tide editorial wrist here ,is a bronze 417 chronograph. Now Hanhart has remade the original stainless steel icon – a crisp cut classic military pilot’s chronograph with an earthbound claim to fame. The man … ContinuedThe post Hanhart just quietly released the 417ES, a Pilot’s watch famously worn by McQueen, and it’s a sleeper vintage monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph Quill & Pad
Nov 7, 2020

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph

At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tudor Nov 7, 2020

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more

I’m not alone in considering the Rolex Explorer one of the best examples of clean, sharp, monochromatic watches out there. But it’s fair to ask – for any of a host of very fair reasons – what are the best Rolex Explorer alternatives if you can’t get a direct path to the Crown? It’s not … ContinuedThe post Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 7, 2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser

Yesterday we explored the Top 10 sports watches under $10,000, but if you are willing to stretch your budget, there is an entirely new tier of top sports watches to explore as well. Here are 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10,000. Hublot Classic Fusion 40th Anniversary yellow gold The watch that … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. Time+Tide
Ming Nov 7, 2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari Time+Tide
Longines Nov 6, 2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari

Sports watches have established themselves as the most sought-after and worn watches in the world. With a greater emphasis on outdoor activity and physical health, consumers need timepieces that can keep up with their active lifestyles. There has been no shortage of divers and chronographs this year, so we have compiled the best sports watches … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more Time+Tide
Rolex references may surprise you Nov 5, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more

If you read Time+Tide regularly, you’ll know that stainless steel Rolex watches are almost exclusively more expensive on the secondary market than they are at retail. This isn’t a new phenomenon, though it does seem to have taken on a new life with the advent of the “waiting list”, an ethereal allocation system that Rolex … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications - the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2020

EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications - the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase

Editor’s note: With watch collecting skewing towards sports models, there is definitely room for more classic and complicated watches in our collections. Now I know what you’re thinking: more complicated means more cost. This, however, is not necessarily the case. In fact, we recently covered a watch that fits the bill. When Watches & Wonders … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month Time+Tide
Rolex showroom Nov 4, 2020

Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month

WatchPro published an article today announcing the largest Rolex showroom in America is set to open in Boston in December. Originally meant to open earlier but delayed due to the COVID-19 crisis, the 4600 square foot showroom will be located within Long’s Jewelers – beating out current record holder Watches of Switzerland and their 3000 … ContinuedThe post Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection Nov 4, 2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic

In a year that sees TAG Heuer peaking with vintage inspiration, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection comes sliding into our feeds as a fresh take on a classic. There is strong inspiration from its ’60s heyday, while a contemporary 42mm case, and a sparkling new engine inside in the Heuer-02 movement, inspires a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Nov 4, 2020

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

Formed only recently by two young watchmakers, Petermann Bédat’s very first timepiece is the 1967, a time-only wristwatch featuring an elaborate deadbeat seconds mechanism. Unusually, the brand made its debut in a gradual manner, having shown its first prototype in 2018 before launching the final version of its debut watch earlier this year. Even more unusually, the successive iterations of the 1967 progressively improved, in both style and finish, to a point where the production version of the watch is simply marvellous. Initial thoughts When I saw a prototype of the 1967 last year, I didn’t think much of the design, but the movement was clearly well done, even in as a half-finished prototype. Rather than massaging the earlier design into better shape, Petermann Bedat ditched it in favour of what you see here. Best described as a modern take on the fashionably retro “sector” dial, the dial looks good and also shows off the brilliant finishing. The decoration visible on the front hints at the quality of work, and the movement visible from the back confirms it. In the smallest details the greatest finesse is visible, in the sharp points of the deadbeat seconds anchor or the escape wheel bridge below the balance. Crucially, the watch pictured is a prototype – amongst other things, the hands are incorrect and the wheels for the deadbeat seconds mechanism are not perfectly finished – yet it is obvious the quality of execution is excellent. Beyond its tangible qua...