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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Atelier Wen Jun 8, 2026

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs

Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years.  And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches.  You might remember the Atelier collect...

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Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Jun 8, 2026

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition

What We Know Among collectors I know and respect, Chopard has been somewhat quietly picking up steam. The launch of a dateless L.U.C. 1860 with a rosy salmon-toned dial in 2023 was a bit of a turning point, bringing the model—compact and beautifully finished—to a broader audience, and with it, Chopard. Revolution was early to the party with its own limited edition, featuring untreated 3N yellow gold and a Lucent Steel case. For that release, the dials were made by Metalem, which makes the dials for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. Now, the idea is back with a new model with similar dial treatment, with a twist. The new L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition comes 26 years after the groundbreaking Quattro model, which featured a 9-day power reserve. This time, the same untreated 3N yellow gold dial is made in-house by the Chopard team, while the watch is still cased in Chopard's proprietary Lucent steel. There is a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, small seconds, and a date at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands are high-polished dauphine shapes with kite-shaped applied hour markers that have a faceted mirror-polished finish. One of the reasons that collectors value Chopard's L.U.C line so much isn't just the quality of the function of the movements, but the quality of the finishing. Yes, the caliber 98.01-L movement doesn't have sharp edges for interior angles like has become so popular these days, but the Côtes de Genève and anglage are still sublime. The four large...

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Hands-On: The Breguet Tradition GMT With Green Enamel Dial Hodinkee
Breguet Tradition GMT Jun 8, 2026

Hands-On: The Breguet Tradition GMT With Green Enamel Dial

Following a whirlwind year of releases for Breguet's 250th anniversary in 2025, this year's recent updates to the collection play it a little safer, with some enamel-focused changes to the brand's iconic Tradition series of watches. The fan favorites, I'm sure, are the 38mm Tradition Seconde Rétrograde models. But when I had a chance to check out some of the novelties a few weeks ago, it was actually the larger, 40mm Tradition GMT that caught my eye. Priced at $82,900, the Tradition GMT is very much a seriously priced contender in the haute horlogerie arena. But one look at the watch shows off so much of what makes it special, and most importantly, it's unabashedly Breguet. Add in the visual update of this current generation, and I think it's the best version I've seen yet. Much of what makes this version stand out is the main subdial at 12 o'clock. It's not every day that Breguet opts for a shade of green in the series—in fact, it's the first time in the Tradition line, as blues, blacks, golds, and greys seem to define much of the older collection. The execution of the gradient green-to-black grand feu enamel dial in this model is absolutely sublime. Enameling is one of the strengths I associate with Breguet's in-house capabilities, and here it's done very well, with a pleasant shade of forest green shifting to the dark black perimeter, all executed and fired by hand. While the Breguet logo and other dial markings are printed in a metallic silver finish for legibility,...

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A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King Philip II of Spain and the Rise of a Dynasty that Ruled by the Clock Worn & Wound
Zenith Jun 8, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: King Philip II of Spain and the Rise of a Dynasty that Ruled by the Clock

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. King Philip II (1527–1598) inherited a globe-spanning empire from his father Charles V and, after 1580, also ruled Portugal. A devout champion of the Counter-Reformation, he centralised government, built the vast monastery-palace of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, and presided over Spain’s political zenith. His court prized scientific instruments and clocks as emblems of order and piety. Philip was part of the great Habsburg dynasty and the son of the Holy Roman emperor Charles V. From time to time, the emperor wrote Philip secret letters, impressing on him the high duties to which God had called him and warning him against trusting any of his advisers too much. Philip, a very dutiful son, took this advice to heart. During his reign the Spanish empire attained its greatest power, extent, and influence, though he failed to suppress the revolt of the Netherlands and lost the ‘Invincible Armada’...

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Introducing – The Sand-Coloured TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Limited Edition Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Limited Jun 8, 2026

Introducing – The Sand-Coloured TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has been having a lot of fun with the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox lately. Blue, panda, reverse panda, and purple versions have all brought a different style to the table. More recently, TAG Heuer also added teal green and black dials to the new-generation 41mm models, and the latest addition heads in yet another […]

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Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing Fratello
Jun 7, 2026

Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing

By now, many of you should know what Albishorn is. It’s a unique approach in the indie watch scene, the love child of industry veteran Sébastien Chaulmontet, with a clever concept. Albishorn timepieces ask, “What if?” The brand’s models are modern “reinterpretations” of vintage watches that never existed. Their Marinagraph Paraíba Racing is the latest […] Visit Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original Fratello
Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Jun 7, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another showdown! This week’s battle pits two modern versions of classic chronographs against each other. Mike picked the recently revamped Breitling Chronomat, while Jorg picked the Zenith Chronomaster Original, the modern version of the Zenith El Primero A386. The roots of the Zenith date back to 1969, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original to read the full article.

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New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more Time+Tide
Piaget Hermès Ming Jun 6, 2026

New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more

From high-profile collaborations to limited runs by design masters at very different price points, this week’s selection has plenty to unpack. We start with the technically impressive Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in a new colourway, followed by an equally remarkable Hermès Minute Repeater and a fully independent collaboration between the U.S. and Malaysia. There is much … Continued

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Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes Fratello
Jun 6, 2026

Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes

There are timepieces that cosplay as tool watches, and then there are those that feel genuinely overbuilt for reasons completely unrelated to marketing. The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron belongs firmly in the latter camp. It’s a watch that seems to exist because somebody in Zurich genuinely thought a 500m-rated dive chronograph with a regatta timer […] Visit Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes to read the full article.

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Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Orient Jun 6, 2026

Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition

Orient Star introduces three new Contemporary Date watches. These approachable timepieces highlight clean, easy-to-read designs. The 75th-anniversary version leads the way with a blue-green “Aurora” gradient dial. It brings a welcome burst of color to the lineup. This version is limited to 1,200 pieces. Alongside it are two regular-collection models with a muted purple dial […] Visit Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Reviewing TAG Heuer’s Limited Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon Australian Edition WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer s Limited Edition Carrera Jun 6, 2026

Reviewing TAG Heuer’s Limited Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon Australian Edition

Does TAG Heuer’s Australian Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon add enough sporty flavour to this traditional complication? Let’s find out! What We Love: Green and gold – our national colours! Gorgeously reframes the historic tourbillon Wears relatively slim and close to the wrist What We Don’t: No hacking seconds may turn off accuracy enthusiasts The inner strap colour is slightly off – a nitpick, but noticeable Is TAG Heuer competing too hard with itself? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 TAG Heuer has long been a major proponent of the Australian market. Ever since entering in the late 1980s, the brand has ingratiated itself within our laid-back, modest, and often adventurous lifestyles. Models like the Aquaracer and Formula 1 became standard fare for the Australian wrist, while others like the Monaco evolved into legendary, aspirational pieces for those who have “made it”. But there is another collection that has long offered the best of both worlds: the TAG Heuer Carrera. The perfect balance of high-end luxury and everyday robustness, the Carrera’s presence in Australia has been shaped by both local values and its own powerful heritage. Bought for celebrations, commemorations, commiserations, and everything in between, it too has become part of Australiana. With that in mind, TAG Heuer has released a smattering of timepieces that reflect its enduring connection with our great nation. La...

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eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen Worn & Wound
Seiko s Jun 5, 2026

eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Manually Wound Seiko Going to start off this week with a simple yet brilliant vintage Seiko. I’ve had a couple of these over the years, and it’s a great looking and reliable model. The steel case is around 36mm if I recall correctly, and this one is in excellent, unpolished shape. Classic round case with nice strong lugs. The dial is a bold blue, with a white bullseye ring and applied steel markers. Steel dauphine hands and no date give this a sharp, unique look that isn’t too flashy. The watch comes on the correct original Seiko beads of rice bracelet, which is so comfortable and great looking to boot. This example dates to April 1974. No movement pictures but the seller states it runs well, and my experience with these is that the movements are quite robust, like most Seikos. View auction here Vintage Waltham  Next up is a nice vintage Waltham sporty/dress watch. The 34mm steel case looks sharp and unpolished, with stylish thin lugs. The classic silver dial is super clean, with nice applied steel thin arrow markers. It has steel dauphine hands with lume lines in them, and the second hand has a nice red arrow tip to help it stand out. No pesky date window to mar the peac...

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Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Jun 5, 2026

Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement

As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]

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Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Jun 5, 2026

Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist

The Heuer Monaco was launched in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and the first square, water-resistant chronograph wristwatch. It became an icon thanks to its unconventional design and its close association with motorsport. Over time, the TAG Heuer Monaco has evolved in multiple directions, from faithful heritage recreations to avant-garde concepts. […]

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Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 Fratello
Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026

At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.

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Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning SJX Watches
Ming Taps J.N Shapiro Jun 5, 2026

Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning

Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...

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Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning Hodinkee
Massena Lab Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning

What We Know When Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro teamed up in 2024 to launch the Alternative Horological Alliance, they did so with a product: a "universal" tantalum bracelet. But I've been waiting to see if the AHA (now including Fears and Massena LAB) would team up in other ways. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro announce the 37.06 "Lightning," which blends the dial work Shapiro's team is known for with Ming's signature design language into something that's both new yet familiar. It's not a trick of the light. The dial is really that striking (no pun intended, I promise). Each dial is made from grade-2 titanium and hand-guillochéd in Los Angeles through engine-turning on a traditional rose-engine lathe to create a pattern called "Lightning guilloché." It's a pattern J.N. Shapiro hasn't used on a wristwatch before. The dials are then shipped to Kuala Lumpur, where Ming Thein himself hand-colors each dial by heat-staining it with a butane torch.  It's not as easy as just sticking a torch on a dial. A time too long or too short by even a few seconds, and the color might be uneven. Even if you do it right, the final result might still fail because the guilloché process exposes variations in titanium's crystalline structure. Only one in three dials works out. The dial is still very Ming, as is the rest of the watch, with the flared lugs and engraved crystal that's filled with HyCeram luminous indices. The hands have Super-LumiNova X1. The case is 38mm in diameter, 10.9mm in t...

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What Keeps Vortic Running Worn & Wound
Hamilton some years ago Jun 4, 2026

What Keeps Vortic Running

Back in March, I found myself on an Amtrak train from Philadelphia to Lancaster, PA, a small city that many think of as the ancestral home of American watchmaking. I’d been to Lancaster before, with Hamilton, some years ago, and even though their old factory is no longer in use, the brand’s history is woven throughout the town in any number of ways. But I wasn’t traveling to Lancaster for Hamilton, I was there to see RT Custer, founder of Vortic. The coincidental nature of the line that connects Hamilton, RT, Vortic, and the city of Lancaster is almost beyond belief, and a new layer to that connection would be added in a matter of hours, as RT worked to secure a purchase of vintage pocket watch movements that would take his brand through another year (at least) of production.  RT grew up in Lancaster, and his father still lives in town. Hamilton’s history there, of course, would have been something he encountered in his younger years, working its way into his memory the way a knowledge of baseball might if you happened to grow up in Cooperstown, or movies if you grew up in Hollywood. I don’t know, though, that anything could have predicted that RT would one day find himself running a company that would be so inextricably linked to the history of American watchmaking.  A collection of very early Vortic watches Vortic is one of the most unique watch brands you’ll ever encounter. Founded in 2013 and based in Fort Collins, CO, Vortic repurposes vintage pocket wat...

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Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)

What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...

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Hands-On: With New Sizes and Dial Treatments, There’s a Laureato for Everyone Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato While I’ve fooled Jun 4, 2026

Hands-On: With New Sizes and Dial Treatments, There’s a Laureato for Everyone

If you’ve seen me around in the watch community, it’s very likely you’ve noticed me wearing a Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While I’ve fooled many into thinking I own one of these beauties, the model is in fact my number one requested loaner whenever I have the privilege to borrow a timepiece for a special event. In my years adoring the Laureato, I’ve had the pleasure of trying out several iterations from the bold 42mm (proving that yes, even my rather small 5.75-inch wrist can rock a 42) to the more pared down 38mm. In all the sizes and dial colors that have graced my wrist, one of my favorites has to be the 38mm copper, which, in my humble opinion, is the ideal twist on a two-tone look. Today, Girard-Perregaux is complicating things for me yet again with some incredibly compelling new takes on the Laureato. First up, we have two variations with a solid 18-karat rose gold dials, one in 39mm and one in 36mm. Unsurprisingly, these deeply rival my former-favorite with the copper dial. I would say the copper is a bit more subtle and subdued with a slightly more matte appearance and a rich shade that lands somewhere between yellow and rose gold. The dial of the new models is decidedly shinier and more reflective with a true rose gold color that is both bright and soft at the same time. In addition to feeling torn between the previous copper dial version and the new 18-karat rose gold, I’m equally undecided on my favorite proportions for the Laureato. I thought the 38m...

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Introducing: Timex Atelier Announces Two New Chronographs Hodinkee
Timex Atelier Announces Two New Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Timex Atelier Announces Two New Chronographs

What We Know The Timex Atelier line doubles in size today, adding four new references and continuing to expand into new complications with the announcement of the Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti and the Chronograph Quartz M1q. Designed by Giorgio Galli, the new models join the existing Diver and GMT, bringing the collection to a total of six references. The M1a Ti is built from titanium with a stainless-steel middle case and a black IP coating, measuring 42mm in diameter with a 20mm lug width. The M1q is a skeletonized stainless steel case with the same black IP middle case treatment at 40mm, also with a 20mm lug width.  Both get a fixed tachymeter bezel, a double-domed sapphire crystal with a triple-layer AR coating, and come on either a metal bracelet or an NBR rubber strap with a deployant buckle. The major difference here is that the M1a Ti has an exhibition caseback showcasing the automatic movement beneath. Both feature two-register chronographs—a first for the Atelier line—with matte black dials, silver subdials, and high-polished silver hands. The M1q adds guilloché texture to the dial and a date window at 6. The M1a Ti stays flat matte. Powering the duo are two different sides of the spectrum. The M1a Ti features a Swiss-made Landeron L72 automatic chronograph at 4Hz with a 43-hour power reserve and 28 jewels. The M1q uses a Swiss-made Ronda 5021D quartz movement with a battery. The M1a Ti comes in at $2,250 on a bracelet and $2,100 on a rubber strap. The M1q i...

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