Deployant
Video: Thomas Baillod talks to us about the new Ba111od Horlogerie Holdings
Thomas Baillod announced that Ba111od has acquired their supplier - BCP Tourbillons. Here is a video of him talking about the acquisition and the new watch.
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Deployant
Thomas Baillod announced that Ba111od has acquired their supplier - BCP Tourbillons. Here is a video of him talking about the acquisition and the new watch.
Fratello
Even if this is the first time that the name “Cleguer” appears on a watch, founder Mathieu Cleguer is far from a newbie. The Breton watchmaker came through the ranks at several high-end independents, working on the technical teams. Now, though, he truly spreads his wings and releases his first creation, the Cleguer Inspiration One. […] Visit Introducing A New Independent Watchmaker In Town: Mathieu Cleguer And His Inspiration One to read the full article.
Monochrome
We’ve said in the past, and I’m not shy of repeating myself; ultra-thin watchmaking should be considered a proper complication. More than just about numbers printed on a specification sheet, more than just making a case thinner than the norm, ultra-thin watchmaking is a true expertise, a field of movement making that requires ingenuity, innovation […]
Monochrome
With the Reference 5249R-001 “The Fox and the Crow”, Patek Philippe presents the first automaton of its modern history. Showcasing rare handcrafts and displaying the hours and minutes on demand, this poetic wristwatch is the reinterpretation of one of the treasures of the Patek Philippe Museum, a pocket watch from 1958. At the press of […]
Time+Tide
A new look for the Hublot Big Bang brings the Unico movement to the fore as the watchmaking ability of the brand takes centre stage.The post Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Distils 20 Years of Modern Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Teddy Baldassarre
The IYKYK Japanese brand teases a trioMore
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen's new Promaster Dive BN0167-09W features a light-reactive dial that shifts between blue, teal, and purple. Available in the US now.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Industry price data provider EveryWatch has released its annual report on the state of the secondary market for luxury watches. The data confirms what many collectors already sense - the pre-owned watch market is booming, but the gains are concentrated in a small number of brands and references that are capturing the lion’s share of value, while the rest are left fighting over the scraps. Francis Ford Coppola’s personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype (left) sold for US$10.8 million, while his Chronomètre à Résonance sold for US$584,000 in December 2025. Image – Phillips Initial thoughts There are many reasons to be skeptical about much of the information gathered by industry data providers. For one thing, data gathered from dealers, internet listings, and auctions naturally misses the sizable proportion of transactions that happens offline. For another, the asking price is often easier to find than the clearing price, which tends to be lower. That’s not to say the data is unusable. On the contrary, the time series data gathered by data providers like WatchCharts can provide validation (or not) for anecdotal evidence and help collectors and dealers make more rational point-in-time decisions - if there is such a thing as a ‘rational’ watch purchase. What’s interesting is not necessarily that the market is estimated to be about US$20 billion in size, or that it’s growing at a rate in excess of 30% according to EveryWatch. What is more interesting is how the ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Grand Seiko Snowflake gets smaller with new 33mm quartz models featuring the newly developed 9F51 movement.
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Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A broke watch snob’s take on why the Audemars Piguet 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph finally makes sense, even if ownership is never on the table.
Time+Tide
The talented young British driver finally gets his own IWC special editions ahead of the 2026 Formula 1 season.The post F1’s George Russell gets his own IWC special editions in black ceramic and his signature blue colorway appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore, also known as The Beast, muscled its way onto the scene in 1993 as a beefier and bolder version of its famous sibling, the Royal Oak. Drawing its inspiration and name (offshore) from the world of powerboat racing popular in the 1980s, the ROO family expanded, and in 2010 surfaced […]
Hodinkee
The brand's latest limited edition offering gets a new stone dial.
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Monochrome
Since its founding, Atelier Wen has positioned itself as a link between contemporary watchmaking and Chinese cultural heritage. Created by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand has steadily built its own design identity, drawing from architecture, traditional crafts and modern manufacturing. The Perception collection, its integrated-bracelet sports watch, has become the core expression. Introduced […]
Deployant
This Chinese New Year Arnold & Son releases the Perpetual Moon with the theme of the Fire Horse bringing hope of vitality to the industry.
SJX Watches
Inspired by 1930s Russian fairytale, Raketa’s latest is the Golden Key, an unusual watch that further expands the brand’s diverse repertoire. The cushioned-shaped watch has a case of walnut wood – this evokes historical wooden clocks and watches from Eastern Europe – and includes a winding key, though it can be wound conventionally via the crown as well. Though modelled on a similar 1970s Raketa model, the modern-day creation is a surprisingly apt adaption of its namesake, The Golden Key, or The Adventures of Buratino, a Russian version of Pinocchio that also includes a wooden puppet that comes to life, but also includes a golden key as central to the tale. Like all Raketa watches, this is affordable and powered by an in-house movement, albeit a basic calibre descended from a Soviet era construction. Initial thoughts The Golden Key has a recognisable 1970s look thanks to its shape and dial, but still manages to stand out because of the wood case. The case and dial are detailed nicely enough so the watch avoids looking like a novelty souvenir. The winding does feel like a bit of a gimmick, but it has no bearing on the function of the watch, which can be wound via the crown anyway. Raketa stuck to the colours of the 1970s original with the Golden Key, making it pleasing but also plain. A more adventurous combination of wood and colour would have made it more interesting; I’m sure that’s on the cards if this one sells well. The only weakness of the watch is arguab...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
When I started writing about watches for a living, it seemed like every watch was a dive watch. I’m only slightly exaggerating. Six years ago, we were entering the height of vintage dive watch reissue fever, and things have only begun to slow down on that front in a noticeable way in the last year, or thereabouts. So when it came time to look at the year in divers and pick the five best, surveying the landscape really drove home a few important points. First, dive watches are no longer the center of watch culture. I’m not exactly sure what is (but I have some thoughts, and we’ll get to them in a later article), but divers simply do not dominate the new release calendar or the thoughts and wishes of enthusiasts the way they did a few short years ago. The other realization I had in compiling this list is that the players in the dive watch landscape are shifting. Sometimes subtly and sometimes dramatically. The brands represented here (and, more apt, not represented) tell a big part of the story in dive watches in 2025. This year end list (and others you’ll see in these pages leading up to the end of 2025) is not meant to be exhaustive or definitive, but is more of a personal reflection on how I saw the year in a particular category. Don’t worry, you’ll get other perspectives soon from other members of our team. I specifically wanted to write about divers because, well, I’m not really a dive watch guy, and I thought it might be interesting and a fun challeng...
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Fratello
Welcome to a new installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we pit two very similar watches from two very dissimilar segments against each other. The Tudor Ranger Dune White takes on the much cheaper Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand. We’ll see if the €2,425 price gap makes sense. Daan will take the Tudor’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger Dune White Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand to read the full article.
Fratello
For a while, we thought we had seen it all when it came to the Tissot PRX. As most of you know, the brand rapidly expanded the collection with a wide variety of dial colors, a smaller size, and different executions of its big hit. This begged the question of what the creative folks at […] Visit Hands-On With The Lightweight Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome, dear Fratelli, to the final battle in our inaugural Dress Watch Season contest! Our writers made their cases for a broad range of dress watches over the past few weeks. You, our esteemed readers, voted for your favorite each time. In the end, the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and the Breguet Classique […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Grand Finale - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The story of Tornek-Rayville is one that represents a significant chapter in both watchmaking and military history, from the earliest purpose-built watches for divers in the 1950s up to the re-emergence of the cult-classic brand (in a notably new form) in the 21st Century. And it begins with the development of the world’s first modern dive watch: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms History"] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, but its most famous timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who headed Blancpain at the time, was an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. The watch’s 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the ...
Worn & Wound
Being surprised by a dive watch is a rare occurrence at this point in the watch industry, except for a few brands trying to break the mold. The formula is relatively simple. Take a large case, add a snappy bezel, give it a legible design language, and what you end up with tends to be a staple model in your collection. What that leads to, though, is a sea of look-alike options with slightly different specs and price points, leading to enthusiast banter over slight obscurities. However, for a watch to tweak the formula with considered, bold design choices and still win me over is a rare thing. That is why, with over 140 brands and thousands of watches on display, I found myself returning to the Jacques Bianchi booth all three days of the Windup Watch Fair in New York City to handle the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc collaboration dive watch. Unfortunately, if you were not among the over 11,000 attendees at this year’s Windup Watch Fair in NYC and, furthermore, did not manage to squeeze into the Jacques Bianchi booth, your chances of seeing this watch in person are now slim to none. Within hours of officially launching the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.EDC, all 150 individually numbered units have officially been sold and will be delivered to their excited owners in January of 2026. Given that reaction, it’s hard to imagine this being the last we hear of these two. The fever behind the collaboration came as no surprise to me, in part due to the specifications, but also the stori...
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