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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.

First Look - The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look Monochrome
Ming ly positive reviews Today Jun 18, 2024

First Look - The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look

French brand Yema keeps pushing the quality of its watches higher and higher, and the recently released updated and refined Superman Slim CMM.20, featuring a proprietary automatic micro-rotor movement, rightfully received overwhelmingly positive reviews. Today, the watchmaker from the Morteau region presents a new interpretation of the brand’s emblematic 1960s skin dive watch series, the […]

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m SJX Watches
Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded Jun 16, 2024

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m

Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts  Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Jun 11, 2024

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch

Louis Vuitton is steadily rebuilding its watch collecting, reorienting the offerings towards more designs with thoughtful details and decoration. Having already redesigned the Tambour, the brand now debuts the Escale Time-Only Automatic. Returning to a case design that’s been in the Louis Vuitton catalogue for well over the decade, the new Escale is a no-frills three-hander with discreet references to the brand’s trunks incorporated into the aesthetic. Initial thoughts I’ve long been a fan of the Escale case – we covered the Escale Worldtime over a decade ago – because it is simple, distinctive, and wears well. The signature Escale models in the past, however, were world time models with extravagantly multicoloured dials. The aesthetic was typical, over-the-top Louis Vuitton. I liked them, a lot in fact, but they were not for everyone, and certainly not easily legible. The new Escale, on the other hand, is a practical watch that is legible but thoughtfully designed with discreet details that evoke Louis Vuitton’s trunks. It retains the same case but with a discreet, three-hand dial. Extravagant it is not, but it has wider appeal. Inside is the same LFT023 found in the Tambour, so movement-wise it has the same strengths and weaknesses. The movement is thin and attractively styled, but could do with more refined details, like the regulator index for instance. Though not perfect (or entirely in-house), the LFT023 compares well against the ETA 2892 found in the ori...

First Look - The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Jun 3, 2024

First Look - The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Have you May 17, 2024

Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

Have you heard of people wearing watches without winding and/or setting them correctly? I have. And to a point, I get why they can’t be bothered to make sure the mechanical watches on their wrists display the time correctly more than twice a day. The correct time is everywhere - on your phone, in your […] Visit Trying Not To Get Confused Or Frustrated By The Platinum Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind to read the full article.

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Watches Founded May 2, 2024

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has long been the gold standard of high watchmaking, pioneering complications and design elements that are now found widely throughout the watch industry - from the first keyless winding system in 1845 to the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996, with many other innovations and historic timepieces in between. Throughout the maison’s long and prestigious history, watches from Patek Philippe have proven to be among the most coveted and valuable on the watch-auction circuit, making up nine of the 10 most expensive watches ever sold and 14 of the top 20. What are these record-breaking Patek Philippe timepieces, what makes them so special, and exactly how much money did they fetch when the hammer came down? Below, we count down the top 10, ending with the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s) Sold at Christie’s in 2010 and still holding its spot in the top 10 most expensive Patek Philippe watches, this exceedingly rare perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case more than doubled its pre-auction estimate. Its matte silver dial features applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials for chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its movement is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to its elite level of finishing as well as its chronometric performance. 9. Patek Philippe Titaniu...

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2024

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas

Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Grand Seiko Apr 20, 2024

The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron

When starting out on a watch journey, one of the first questions to consider is the choice between quartz and automatic watches, with the perception that mechanical watches are "better" and more expensive, while quartz watches are entry-level and lower quality. While this may hold some truth, luxury brands also produce high-end quartz pieces that are equally impressive from a technological standpoint. 

Hands-on - A Statement in Style… the AP Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet unveiled Apr 15, 2024

Hands-on - A Statement in Style… the AP Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold

In 2022, Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new Royal Oak models to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this iconic line. Among these releases stood the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm reference 26240, adorned, like other anniversary automatic editions, with a special rotor sporting a prominent 50 logo. However, by 2023, these gave way to regular models […]

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, we get to see new additions to Vacheron Constantin’s popular Overseas collection. The integrated-bracelet sports model receives additions in pink gold with green dials as well as a full-titanium tourbillon model with a blue dial. The new green dials come in four Overseas variants. There is a 41mm Self-Winding […] Visit Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 10, 2024

Introducing - The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

The moon phase indicator and date combination is a flagship model at Frederique Constant, appearing with the launch of the brand’s second manufacture movement in 2005. Early models, like the Heart Beat Manufacture, were equipped with the brand’s hand-wound moon phase and date movement (FC-915). Evolving over the years and replacing the manual-winding movement with […]

Introducing - The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Apr 9, 2024

Introducing - The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original

1969 was a milestone year for Zenith watches with the brand’s launch of the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. Although the El Primero stole the headlines, it was not the only model Zenith had up its sleeve. With slightly less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy family with its angular octagonal case, crazy […]

First Look - Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video) Monochrome
Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound Apr 9, 2024

First Look - Grand Seiko Goes Hand-Wound With the New Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002 (incl. Video)

In 2020, for its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko unveiled two milestones: a new automatic, hi-beat movement named calibre 9SA5 and a new collection of watches with an updated design language known as Evolution 9. It took us and the watch community a bit of time to understand the importance of this move by the Japanese watchmaker; […]

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day Apr 9, 2024

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way

The tourbillon is already one of the most mechanically impressive but elegant complications, neatly integrated into a tiny radius. For Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC sought to further iterate on the elegance of its manual-winding Portugieser Tourbillon, but rather than just introducing a new dial colour or strap option, the brand added a complication. Usually, … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Apr 9, 2024

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

Introducing - The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91) Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series Apr 4, 2024

Introducing - The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91)

Launched in 1963, the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 was Seiko’s and Japan’s first automatic day-date watch. With its solid water and shock-resistant stainless case and bracelet, practical functions, automatic movement and accessible price, the Seiko 5 became an instant best-seller among young people. Following Seiko’s participation in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, exports of the Seiko 5 […]

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage Fratello
Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko Apr 4, 2024

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage

The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.

The Breitling Navitimer Evolves into a No-Frills GMT SJX Watches
Breitling Navitimer Evolves into Apr 1, 2024

The Breitling Navitimer Evolves into a No-Frills GMT

To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...