Results for Type XX

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Sep 26, 2025

Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size

Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy.  The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

IWC Sep 25, 2025

IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station

Founded by a crypto billionaire, Vast is developing the first-ever commercial space station, and IWC is now its official timekeeper. The IWC-Vast partnership continues the watchmaker’s recent involvement with commercial and civilian space travel, which included a series of special watches for the first all-civilian space flight in 2021. The Vast control centre Vast was founded in 2021 by Jed McCaleb, an entrepreneur who set up the now defunct crypto exchange Mt. Gox and later helped develop Ripple, a crypto platform. With a ten-figure fortune from his crypto ventures, Mr McCaleb has funded Vast and its ambition of creating artificial gravity space stations. Inside Haven-1 Sometime in 2026, Vast is planning to launch Haven-1, a small space station in low Earth orbit. Over the next two decades, Vast aims to build larger stations and eventually a fleet of them. Haven-1 under construction What can we expect from IWC partnership? According to IWC, the tie-up will “enable IWC to… develop spaceflight-ready watches. At Vast headquarters, Vast engineers will test prototypes… in a similar way to some of the hardware that will fly on Haven Demo and Haven-1 – a testament to the authenticity of IWC’s aerospace lineage.”  

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F Fratello

Fratello

Ming 37.05 Lunatic Ming Sep 24, 2025

Introducing: The Ming 37.05 Lunatic

Ming is probably best known for its simple, time-only watches. After all, these are the types of pieces responsible for the small brand’s dramatic rise in popularity. However, the eight-year-old brand has offered chronographs, GMTs, worldtimers, and other complications. In 2021, the first Ming watch with a date indicator arrived. It also included a moonphase […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.05 Lunatic to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Sep 16, 2025

Remembering Robert Redford, His Films, and His Influence on the Watch Community

I’m part of a generation that grew up appreciating Robert Redford, who passed away this morning at the age of 89, primarily through the lens of their parents. Specifically, in my case, through my mom, who I can remember renting The Sting for me and my sister when we were children, certainly too young to appreciate Redford’s cultural impact on a generation of moviegoers, but not too young to understand his movie star magnetism. That’s something that defies age.  Over the years, as my movie education expanded and deepened, I began to see Redford in a series of different lights. At times, he was the consummate leading man. At others he exemplified a particular type of American authenticity and charm. As he aged, he grew into roles where he played learned experts, passing on knowledge (and movie star bona fides) to new generations of actors. Perhaps most importantly, he was an evangelist for movies, the founder of the Sundance Film Festival, and spent much of his later life promoting and elevating independent film in one way or another. He was also, of course, an important part of the watch community and over the years has been responsible for more watch spotting Instagram posts, articles, and podcasts, than perhaps any other celebrity. His Red Sub, to us, became an extension of Redford’s persona. It was as much a part of his image as the red jacket worn by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, or Audrey Hepburn’s pearls in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The difference wi...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Sep 12, 2025

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case

One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time.  The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Albishorn Introduces Aug 27, 2025

Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer

Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired  by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era.  The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series Aug 26, 2025

Review: the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

One of the most satisfying experiences you can have when you write about watches is when a new piece completely meets or exceeds all of your expectations. This is a somewhat rare occurrence. When you see as many watches as we do, we notice all the little imperfections, compromises, and, sometimes, flat out mistakes. It means that even when we like a watch a lot our minds naturally go right to the idiosyncrasies that make it less than perfect. Because, after all, no watch is perfect. There are always small things that will bother you or that you wish had been handled in a slightly different way.  But then, sometimes, a watch comes along that legitimately stuns you. Even better when it’s from a brand that you’ve been waiting literally years to see if they could live up to the lofty ambitions they set for themselves, that they told you about over coffee in Geneva at an impromptu meeting with a table spread with rather rough prototypes.  Holthinrichs is a brand that’s been on my radar for just about as long as the brand has existed. Their design language, inspired by architecture, the elegant lines of classic sports cars, and their home city of Delft, is infused with a uniquely Dutch sensibility, and has always grabbed me. Brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs has emerged as one of contemporary indie watchmaking’s great characters. I hope he’d take it as a compliment if I described him as Biver-esque, but there’s some connective tissue there for sure in the way Mich...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 22, 2025

The Best Solar Watches

  Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year.   Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Patek Philippe focused retail operation Aug 20, 2025

Time+Tide Announces their First Dress Watch, a Collaboration with Dennison Featuring a Marquetry Mother of Pearl Dial

Just a few months ago, Dennison launched their first ever collaboration with Collectability, John Reardon’s Patek Philippe focused retail operation. That watch was an exercise in subtlety, and all about shape. It evoked classic Patek references without hitting you over the head with obvious historical nods, and felt like a true reflection of Reardon’s taste. This week, they’ve announced their second collaborative watch, a time limited edition with Time+Tide, and this one is equally impressive while being anything but subtle, featuring an impressive execution of a rarely seen mother of pearl marquetry technique.  This feels like it might be the second week in a row where a mother of pearl limited edition takes over our social media feeds. It was just days ago that Selten premiered their own engraved MOP dial in partnership with Watch Ho & Co. Like the Selten, this new Dennison doesn’t stop at a simple slab of mother of pearl, but seeks to transform the material into something unexpected.  That’s where designer Emmanual Gueit comes in. He’s created a dial featuring a repeating motif of unique, rectangular, mother of pearl filaments. The result is an irregular surface that shimmers like a traditional MOP dial, but in unexpected ways through a geometric pattern. This type of dial making is far more labor intensive than using a single piece of mother of pearl, as each filament had to be precisely inlaid by hand.  Time+Tide has released a number of limited edition...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Unimatic Introduces Aug 12, 2025

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection

While minimalism may be as trendy as ever these days (one look at any modern car interior will tell you that) a lot of brands miss the mark when it comes to balancing that aesthetic with function, or the lack thereof. Not so with Unimatic’s all-new Prodiver line, which promises both a streamlined design language and robust mechanical functionality. But do the watches actually pull it off? Let’s take a deeper dive and find out. Perhaps the biggest factor in Unimatic’s favor here is the Italian brand’s penchant for design cohesiveness across their lineup. Even before taking the new Prodiver into consideration, Unimatic watches share aesthetic hallmarks, namely chunky, round indexes, sans serif typefaces, and symmetrical dial balance. Even models that deviate from this norm, like the UT1 and UT4, which feature hour numerals instead, carry a uniformly round and hardy profile, which gives each Unimatic watch friendly-yet-tough dimensions. This is all personal conjecture, of course, but rarely does a brand manage to maintain consistency in design across their entire lineup quite as well as Unimatic does.  Back to the Prodiver, though; like most other watches by the brand, it also bears the signature round indexes, though it adds some legitimate dive watch pedigree, too. Each of the three new Modello Uno models sports a democratically-sized case, measuring at 40mm in diameter and 49mm lug to lug. The case thickness is a healthy 14.4mm with the domed sapphire crystal, and...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rado Celebrates 40 Years Aug 11, 2025

Rado Celebrates 40 Years of Tennis at the Mubadala Citi DC Open

Rado’s participation in the Mubadala Citi DC Open has become a late summer tradition. Now in its third year, the descent of tennis fans (and a handful of watch media types) into Rock Creek Park is a sign that summer’s days are numbered, and the US Open prep is becoming serious. On the weekend of this year’s DC Open, you’d be forgiven for thinking summer was never ending. Blisteringly hot and muggy with humidity one minute, drenched in torrential downpours the next, it’s enough to make you wonder why anyone thought our nation’s capital should be built on a swamp in the first place. Photo courtesy Rado In any event, the annual tradition that’s been forming over these last few years with Rado extends to the release of a new, limited edition watch. I was fortunate enough to see their latest, the Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Limited Edition, in DC just a few weeks ago. The new LE makes use of the smaller, 39mm Captain Cook case to great effect. This is a compact, easy to wear dive watch that’s on the elegant side of sporty, which seems appropriate for a watch associated with tennis. A dive watch associated with tennis is, of course, a bit incongruous, even taking into consideration the downpours we experienced at this year’s Open. But with the beads-of-rice style bracelet and a smaller form factor, this version of the Captain Cook blends in nicely in a more elevated environment.  There are little design cues throughout this Captain Cook that reference tennis in...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Aug 8, 2025

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch

After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jaeger-LeCoultre Bremont Aug 3, 2025

New Watch Releases You May Have Missed from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bremont, and Minase

Happy first weekend of August, and welcome to another new release summary! Would that make it a “summery” summary? Bad alliterative jokes aside, we’ve seen some exciting new pieces from big-name watchmakers and microbrands alike. Rounding out this release list are a colorful new IWC Top Gun collab, a Jaeger-LeCoulture that shoots for the stars, a meteoric Bremont with lofty aspirations, and a Minase that brings a little winter chill to the summer sun.  Read on, and let us know if there is a new release that you think we missed out on in the comments! IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar Far from their first Top Gun release, IWC’s new chronograph may not seem that exciting at first glance. But the new Miramar edition has a secret weapon: a Pantone hue of the same name. Other Top Gun IWCs have been made available in shades of black, gray, and beige, which although appropriate for the military-theme, aren’t terribly exciting from a color perspective. The Miramar, then, stands out with its unapologetically cheery blue, inspired by the light blue t-shirts worn by TOPGUN flight instructors under their flight suits.  It’s not just the color that gives the Miramar an edge, though. Design-wise, the left-leaning subdials at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, balanced out by the dual date and day windows, provide for a handsomely readable aesthetic. The typeface is characteristic of other IWC Top Gun watches, with rounded sans serif numeral...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Submariner Review Jul 26, 2025

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier.  Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Casio Jul 22, 2025

G-SHOCK and The Surfrider Foundation Japan Focus on Conservation with the New G5600SFJ-9

Here in the wild year of 2025, you can buy watches made from all sorts of sci-fi sounding materials: titaniums of all types, fancy plastics, stalwarts like stainless steels, and yes, bio-ceramics. Casio and their iconic built-tough subbrand, G-SHOCK, have never been strangers to experimenting with the affordable end of material innovation, and in a new collaboration with environmental nonprofit The Surfrider Foundation Japan, they’ve taken up bio-based resin and mixed-color molding to create the new G5600SFJ-9. As is the case with all of G-SHOCK’s watches, the G5600SFJ-9 boasts a plethora of durability-first features. The brand’s Tough Solar and Super Illuminator tech power the digital readout, while the case enjoys shock resistance and 200 meters of water resistance. G-SHOCK fans will be pleased to see expected functions like a 48-city world timer, a 1/100-second stopwatch, a countdown timer, daily and hourly alarms and time signals, and both 12 and 24-hour time formatting. While none of this is particularly groundbreaking, it is reassuring to see G-SHOCK’s consistency across their frequent collaborations.  Speaking of collaboration, The Surfrider Foundation Japan-a marine-focused nonprofit that celebrates the intersection of conservation and surfer lifestyle-lends its logo and #oceanfriendlylifestyle slogan to the face, caseback, and band loop. For thematic cohesion, the watch’s bright yellow hue is intended to bring to mind a sunrise on the coastline, and...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nomos Minimatik 39 Jul 7, 2025

Dialed-In: the NOMOS Minimatik 39 and a Summer Wedding Style Guide

Editor’s Note: Today, Brett Braley-Palko kicks off a new series. Dialed-In is an irreverent take on the classic style guide, with practical style suggestions for specific situations, built around watches we love. Today, as we barrel into the height of summer, Brett considers the challenges of dressing for a summer wedding with the NOMOS Minimatik 39 laying the groundwork. There is a difference between dressing and styling. Dressing is what I’m doing right now while I type this: I have on a pair of shorts from high school and a Rolling Stones t-shirt I got on sale at Urban Outfitters. But styling? That’s a bit harder to define – and even harder to achieve. While we all want to put our best foot forward, sartorially speaking, it ain’t easy, folks. You have to think about fit, cut, fabric, color. And while many of us know the basics, sometimes mastering a few practical tips is all it takes to look (and feel!) your best. And there’s no better place to get a masterclass on dressing well than a Summer wedding, where you’re not only navigating those pesky sartorial rules, but trying to figure out what the hell the invitation meant by “black tie casual” and how to not sweat through your jacket before the ceremony even starts.  Building an Outfit Looking good for a Summer wedding isn’t impossible, but it does require a little more pre-planning than, say, the usual black-suit-white-shirt ensemble that’s the default for the cooler months. Summer allows for peop...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jul 3, 2025

Strapped In: Field Testing the Matador Equipment GlobeRider35

While Matador might have started with a simple pocket blanket, they’ve grown into a full-fledged travel accessory powerhouse. With the GlobeRider45 pack earning some serious praise, Matador heard the cries for a slightly smaller pack and created the GlobeRider35. Heavily inspired by the original 45L, the new 35L retains the same travel-inspired DNA and features while also being more carry-on compliant, a combination that’s sure to make this pack quite popular. Let’s face it: traveling, especially flying, can be stressful. Whether you’re just bringing along the essentials or traveling with any type of content-creating kit, safely bringing your items along for the journey can feel like a monumental task, one that Matador hopes to help solve. Notable Specs and Features Given the GlobeRider’s size and internal layout, this pack would be fantastic for those who want to travel without a checked bag, something I often dream about, but have yet to do with the various photography gear I typically need to bring carry-on with me. With 35 liters of capacity, the Globerrider 35 is aimed at those week-ish long trips, but could certainly be utilized for longer adventures if you make time for a laundromat. Available in three distinct colorways, my personal favorite is the Garnet as it’s unique enough to stand out, without being so bold that I feel like a walking traffic cone. When it comes to the materials used, Matador has incorporated some of the best-known component manufac...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review Jun 26, 2025

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review

The story of the Rolex Explorer 36 124270 began at Watches & Wonders 2021, which represented an important anniversary for Rolex in marking 50 years of the Explorer II, and expectations were high on what we might see the brand do with the collection. Contrary to some of the wilder predictions, Rolex played things relatively conservatively, bringing the new 3285 movement into the line while retaining the model's 42mm case. Ironically, a reversion to classic proportions did come, but it would be in the Explorer collection and a new Reference 124270, which moved back to a 36mm case size for the first time since the 39mm 214270 was introduced in 2010. This was seen as a very un-Rolex move at the time, but today, more than three years later, it’s a watch that makes a lot of sense, not just on its own, but for Rolex as a brand. The Rolex Explorer 36mm next to the older 39mm Rolex is a brand that generally moves in one direction and, until relatively recently, doesn’t go out of its way to acknowledge its past in any overt way. While Rolex still isn’t making throwback or vintage-inspired watches, the company has taken a slightly different approach in embracing its historic design DNA while transitioning its full range to the 32xx series of movements. Examples of this include the current generation of the Submariner, which has gone back to a thinner, more traditional lug; the Sea-Dweller Reference 126600, which uses a bit of red text on the bottom of the dial; and the most ove...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Brew Debuts Jun 24, 2025

Brew Debuts the Metric Lite, a New Version of their Hit Watch in a Vintage Inspired Smaller Size

There’s a good deal of conversation around proper use of the terms “retro” and vintage” in many spaces-automotive, interior design, video games, etc. -and the watch world is no different. Is there a year cutoff? A need for tangible or mechanical connection to a model of the past?  Brew, the ever-more-popular New York-based watch brand, shirks all those insecurities and goes straight to the “vibe check” standard. Founded in 2015 by industrial designer Jonathan Ferrer, the brand obviously doesn’t have a back catalog of “vintage” designs to pull from or reinvent, but their new Metric Lite model is aimed squarely at the “retro-vintage” renaissance that’s hitting the watch world, mostly because, well, it looks the part. Is that all it takes to make a retro-vintage watch? Let’s dive in.  Brew’s self-described mission for the Metric Lite can also be found in the name; basically, they set out to create their most “compact and wearable” watch, without sacrificing utility or style. The Metric Lite comes in three variations: steel case and black dial, steel case and mother of pearl dial, and gold PVD case and black dial. All three are wrapped in cushion cases that measure in at 30mm-a mark of the vintage appeal and Brew’s proven understanding of the “everyday watch” category. Each reference additionally wears a hand-brushed flat link bracelet, which lends a sporty outline and 1970’s-type flair to the watch’s silhouette. Brew’s coffe...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Casio ak Jun 19, 2025

G-Shock CasiOak In 2025

Before getting into the CasiOak, let's revisit some brand history. Japan’s Casio, renowned as the producer of the world’s first portable electronic calculator, released its first watch, the quartz-powered Casiotron, in 1974. But it wasn’t until 1983 that the electronics giant really made an impact on the timepiece world with the introduction of the first G-Shock. Conceived by Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe, who had experienced the loss of the beloved pocket watch his father had given him after he accidentally dropped it on a hard floor, the G-Shock was positioned from the beginning to be the world’s toughest watch, and the first to use urethane rubber in its construction.  From the original DW5000-C (recent version pictured above), with its rectangular case, all-digital LCD timekeeping display, and quartz movement with 10-year battery life, sprang an extensive family of G-Shocks, which by the time of the model’s 40th anniversary in 2023 would include both digital and analog-digital models as well as a variety of high-tech case materials. In 2019, the G-Shock family tree added a branch that made fans of a certain type of high-end sport-luxury timepiece stand up and take notice - namely the so-called “CasiOak” models (below), whose roots, it could be argued, reach back not only farther than the first G-Shock but even farther than the Casiotron. Why "CasiOak?" It was a Swiss luxury watch, as groundbreaking in its own way as the G-Shock, that ultimately paved the w...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2025

Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial

Last week in this space, I wrote about a crop of new Seiko 5 Sports watches more than a little indebted to the classic SKX line of divers, and there was, perhaps, some concern trolling about the current state of the Seiko brand. In my view, there’s no denying that Seiko’s grip on the enthusiast world has loosened a bit when it comes to watches in this genre. There are just so many options these days at competitive price points, brands that are willing to experiment and take risks, and Seiko is a little left behind making watches that are exactly fine but break little new ground, cost more than they did five years ago, and are missing some key features (screw down crowns, etc.) that a certain type of collector insists upon. So that’s the state of affairs with their entry-level sports watches, but of course that’s only a sliver of what Seiko actually produces. Another tentpole of Seiko enthusiasm (though perhaps a bit less widely celebrated) is their Presage line. Seiko Presage watches tend to be dressier pieces that exist to celebrate traditional Japanese craftsmanship and culture. Over the years, a number of watches in the Presage collection have achieved a level of classic status in the enthusiast world (the various “Cocktail Time” watches immediately come to mind). Among my personal favorites in the Presage collection are watches with dials crafted with urushi lacquer and enamel, and earlier this week Seiko announced a reference representing a first for the b...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

May 29, 2025

Introducing Anemoic: From University Project to Watch Brand

Watch industry trade shows can be intoxicating if not disorienting as you meander down rows of branded tables, making snap judgments as to where you choose to spend your precious time. It’s possible to go through an entire day under the assumption that you had seen everything, tried it on for a wrist shot, and compiled your shortlist only to find out from an acquaintance that there was one model you missed, hiding in their camera roll. That is a fear that all of us in watch media live with. So, when I overheard the rumblings of a young watch designer hiding an interesting prototype in his pocket during the first session of public hours during British Watchmakers’ Day, I knew I had only a few hours to pull on that thread and seek it out myself. Finally, towards the closing hours of the show, I ran into Magnus Swann. Magnus Swann Like an introductory drug deal oozing with awkwardness, I slunk up to the tall figure to introduce myself, hoping he would supply the goods. With equal parts excitement and nervousness at sharing an early glimpse into his personal vision, Magnus produced a prototype, along with immediate excuses for its appearance, offering detailed points for his lofty goals. What began as a university project was finally starting to take shape. For the first time, it was being seen by a select few of the most scrutinizing watch enthusiasts. I sat there with Magnus’s creation in hand, and immediately signed up to follow his story. It is still the early days, ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bell & Ross Introduces May 29, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces the Stealthy New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline

Love it or hate it, Bell & Ross is committed to their iconic, oversized, and squared-off designs. But despite what their haters say, they don’t just do squares. Or rather, they layer other shapes over squares sometimes. Confused? Good. Let’s get into it.  The brand’s popular BR-03 Diver platform is home to a healthy handful of references, all of which measure in at 42mm in diameter, and feature the brand’s classic “circle within a square” design that varies in color and material between models. Basically, the iconic Bell & Ross square case remains, with a diver’s bezel laying on top, giving each model a stacked, utilitarian aesthetic. The design is effectively functional and deeply polarizing, as is B&R;’s forte.  Last year, the French brand began updating BR-03 Diver timepieces by introducing optimized changes to the movement and materials, ceramic bezels and inserts, and revised typeface, hands, and strap designs. The latest BR-03 Diver release, the Lum Outline, is perhaps the most emblematic of the line’s emphasis on functionality and capability without sacrificing stylistic panache.  The Lum Outline’s case, bezel, dial, and strap options-one rubber, and the other black synthetic fabric-are all a uniform matte black. Normally, I would say that this is tame or even boring, but the micro-blasted texture of the ceramic gives the watch a more interesting and layered look than a monochrome design usually would. The case is a solid 13.35mm thick, and...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Cartier Tank Louis Review May 28, 2025

Cartier Tank Louis Review

The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else.  Cartier Tank Louis Case  The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Jaeger-LeCoultre exotic tourbillon May 21, 2025

Highlights: Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction encompasses excellent complications at a range of price points. Highlights at the top end include the controversial Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a massive Jaeger-LeCoultre exotic tourbillon, a skeletonized Credor chronograph, and a special-order Patek Philippe that was presumably a gift from parent to son. Also on the block are fine pocket watches for the Chinese market on the first day of the sale, while the second and third sale days include notable examples of independent watchmaking. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX takes place from May 23-25, 2025. The full catalogue, and more, is available on Phillips.com. Lot 839 – A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In 2004, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Double Split, a chronograph with both split-seconds and split-minutes–a feat previously only accomplished in pocket watches. Never one to stand still, Lange added split-hours into the mix with the Triple Split in 2018. The case is the brand’s typical fare, with distinctive stepped-out lugs, and continues its tradition of placing the split-button in the case band, rather than in the crown, as is the convention for wristwatches. This rose gold variation, of which only 100 were made, is matched with a handsome blue and silver dial. To create the Double Split, Lange built on the landmark L951 movement of the Datograph, adding a pair of rattrapante mechanisms, one for seconds and the other, minutes. From there, Lange added an hour...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Zenith Introduces May 21, 2025

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli

Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...

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Worn & Wound

Christopher Ward Answers May 16, 2025

Christopher Ward Answers the Call of their Enthusiast Fans with the The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé

Christopher Ward has smashed practically every boundary in their price bracket and continues to pick up loyal fans and newcomers like a cartoon snowball rolling down a mountainside. The Twelve-named somewhat confusingly for its dodecagonal bezel-has proven to be one of the brand’s most popular models, and likewise continues to expand its line of references since its inception in 2023. Responding to fan fervor, Christopher Ward has announced three The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé models to further round out The Twelve collection and prove to its followers that a little bit of fan-pleasing goes a long way. Each of the three new Non-Fumé models retains several distinctive characteristics from similar Grade 2 Titanium (or “Ti”) models, including a monotone dial finish, which has previously only been used for steel designs. The angular case wears at 40mm in diameter and 44.5mm lug-to-lug, giving it a significant, but not overbearing, presence on the wrist. Being titanium, the watch is a relatively lightweight 41 grams, and the screw-down crown at 3 o’clock paired with a screw-down display caseback ensures a fairly hardy 100 meters of water resistance.  Another shared element across the three Non-Fumé pieces is the repeating pattern on the dial, inspired by Christopher Ward’s “twin-flags” logo. When viewed at different angles-aided by the flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating-the motif’s texture reflects light back in varying ways. This type of t...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

May 8, 2025

Watch Movements: A Comprehensive Guide and FAQ

Watch movements, like the engines in cars, are the mechanisms that make the whole thing run, and if you're new to the world of avid watch enthusiasm, there's more to learn about them, and how they work, than you think. In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we will attempt to answer every question that you might have about movements - their different types, their important parts, who makes them, and even a bit of history and trivia.  What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, the oldest type of movement in horology, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a key, then by a winding crown attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatically,” through the motions of the wearer’s wrist. What is the difference between a mechanical movement and an automatic movement? It isn’t really a question of difference: the latter is simply a specific type of the former, à la a Cognac and a brandy. The two main types of mechanical movements are manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to p...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

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