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Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Unveils May 31, 2024

Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy

Earlier this year, alongside multiple new watches such as the RO Perpetual with John Mayer and the Sand Gold alloy applied to an RO Openworked Tourbillon, Audemars Piguet also presented an unexpected and entirely novel multi-coloured ceramic called chroma ceramic featuring a polarising but cool camouflage pattern. In the same vein, Audemars Piguet now applies […]

Wait a seconde/seconde/: A Conversation with Romaric André Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen high end entry May 31, 2024

Wait a seconde/seconde/: A Conversation with Romaric André

If you’re involved in the watch industry to any degree, even as a collector, you’ve definitely heard of seconde/seconde/, or at least seen his work. Timex, Bausele, Lima, Squale, Atelier Wen, Bamford Watch Co., Spinnaker, Furlan Marri, Maen, Sequent, Isotope, Louis Erard, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen - high end, entry level, micro brand, independent, and large established companies. Romaric André (seconde/seconde/) has vandalized the world of watches at every level. He makes us smile, and causes many of us to view this large and serious industry with a bit of levity and added consideration.  I connected with Romaric via Instagram. During the month of January my hand was broken, so instead of posting my own wrist shots I thought it would be fun to highlight friends in the Instagram watch community. One such friend had a Timex x seconde/seconde/ Polar collaboration with a wonderful whirling penguin rotating for a seconds hand. I made a comment in the caption stating that I wish I had jumped on the Timex x seconde/seconde/ collaboration, and moments later Romaric popped into my DM’s to let me know where I could get one at retail price. It brought me such joy to connect with him and get the watch, but it also opened the door for me to conduct an interview and get to know a bit about the man behind all the fun.  Although it might seem like seconde/seconde/ has been part of our community only recently, he’s actually been involved with watches for some time. After going ...

Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series Fratello
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament May 31, 2024

Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series

Last November, Morgan and I visited the cozy Holthinrichs atelier on one of Delft’s picturesque canals. There, we had the chance to go hands-on with the brand’s new Deconstructed models and talk to the founder, Michiel Holthinrichs. We got to know the brand a little better and got a good look at those impressive watches. […] Visit Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series to read the full article.

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet increased May 31, 2024

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome May 30, 2024

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 30, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph

Maurice de Mauriac in 1997, and helmed by twins Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss since 2021, has carved out a niche as one of the more playful and eccentric modern independent watch brands. Their watches are known for their use of color and materials, even extending to the plethora of strap and bracelet options available. There are a total of 113 options on their website, to say you are spoiled for choice would be an understatement. New for 2024 is a mountain of a watch, inspired by a mountain of a man. When everyone else is making them smaller, MDM is making them big. The Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Big Date Deep Blue is a large name for well… a large watch. Since we are on the subject, might as well get the measurements out of the way, as there are 2 available sizes. Large and extra-large. The former is 45mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 53mm, while the latter is 48mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 56mm. The cases seen here with a blue dial are titanium (the watch is also offered in bronze and steel). Inspired by 6’4”, 320 pound Swiss wrestler Samir Leuppi, these watches are meant for big wrists like his and Maurice de Mauriac does not dispute it. These are definitely not for the timid of wrist. One of the wonderful benefits of a larger watch is uncanny legibility, exemplified here with big bold Arabic numerals at the outer minute track and a big date complication at 12:00.  The other distinguishing feature of this watch is the ornate knurled b...

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style Fratello
May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style

The young Swedish brand Nezumi has made a name for itself with a catalog of stylish, affordable watches. Now, with the release of its new Terrain field watch, the Stockholm-based brand has completed its ultimate traveling triumvirate, the Adventure Trio. Alongside the new Terrain, we have the relatively longstanding but revised Baleine dive watch and […] Visit Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Unveils May 29, 2024

First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Erard pursues its mission of delivering traditional handmade decorative techniques at accessible prices. Usually the preserve of top-tier brands, dials decorated with métiers d’art techniques like guilloché or enamel command hefty prices. Luckily, Louis Erard thinks differently and is determined to offer its appreciative public original watches with beautifully executed dials that won’t break the […]

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre One May 29, 2024

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre

One of the perks of this job is that we get to see where and how watches are made. I love a good manufacture visit as it provides context for the watches, allowing a look into the places and people behind them. It also provides comparability between brands. Once you have a couple of these […] Visit Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Monochrome
MB&F; May 28, 2024

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum

The aphorism “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is not often used by watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the mastermind behind MB&F;’s most complex timepieces enhanced with his innovative technological breakthroughs. Responsible for the 2015 LM Perpetual and the LM Sequential EVO, fans of MB&F;’s wonderful watches will be delighted to learn that Stephen McDonnell is […]

IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch Fratello
IWC Reveals Ceralume May 28, 2024

IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch

Luminescent materials have been a part of watchmaking for generations. The use of radioactive materials in the last century was fundamental in the design of tool watches that could allow the owner an opportunity to tell the time in darkened conditions. Thankfully, we no longer have to rely on radioactive materials to achieve this outcome, […] Visit IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch to read the full article.

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller SJX Watches
May 28, 2024

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller

Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds May 27, 2024

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range

Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design.  The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...