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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

SIHH 2011: Greubel Forsel Double Tourbillon 30 Technique Deployant
Greubel Forsey Feb 3, 2011

SIHH 2011: Greubel Forsel Double Tourbillon 30 Technique

Greubel Forsey is one of the independent watchmakers to watch…they are very innovative, and creates timepieces which are wonderful to the eye…like landscapes…and fully deserve what I call watchscapes…landscapes of watches. Started by two veterans from Renaud et Papi – the firm bears the name of the founders…Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Robert is French,Read More

The Petrolhead Corner - Mercedes-AMG Brings V8 Thunder With The New CLE 646 Spezialanfertigung Monochrome
2h ago

The Petrolhead Corner - Mercedes-AMG Brings V8 Thunder With The New CLE 646 Spezialanfertigung

It seems like we can’t go a week or two without a new power-hungry car manufacturer launching something bonkers. This time around, it’s the madmen of Mercedes-AMG who have surprisingly taken the covers off a new super-sports-coupe. Based on the CLE platform, the CLE 646 Specialanfertigung (German for Bespoke, or Custom-Made) promises boatloads of power […]

Bring a Loupe: A Pair Of Issued Smiths, A Gübelin 18K Triple Date Moonphase, A Universal Genève Ferrovie dello Stato, And Much More Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 1415 will sell 19h ago

Bring a Loupe: A Pair Of Issued Smiths, A Gübelin 18K Triple Date Moonphase, A Universal Genève Ferrovie dello Stato, And Much More

Happy Friday, folks, and congrats on bustling through another week. Hopefully you're staring down a welcome break of a weekend with rest and good cheer. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Zenith De Luca sold for €4,750, the Carlo Ferrara for €2,816, the Gen 1 Speedmaster X-33 for 2,000 SGD, and the Patek Philippe 1415 will sell this Friday. Strays Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. For those suddenly enthusiastic about vintage Zenith De Lucas that look an awful lot like the Daytona of the same time period, here's an excellent example, but if you'd rather a Zenith with a little more color and flash and water resistance, here's a great-looking vintage Defy. This Gübelin pocket watch is breath-arrestingly lovely, as are both of these (dog leg, non dog leg) 18k Omega Constellations. This Vintage Meister Anker chronograph is a catch-22 watch in that it looks really cool, but it's also got a plated case, and it's powered by an Ebauches Bettlach pin-lever movement, so proceed with caution. On September 18, Millon in Paris will host an auction that's listed as the "Collection Monsieur B," and whoever Monsieur B is, he's got phenomenal taste. Among the offerings are an Omega Chronometer Seamaster 'Sparkle' reference 168.022, a Universal Genève Polerouter Super, an Omega Holy Grail, a Sinn EZM 1, and a Zenith El Primero A386, but there are tons more you should go check out. Finally: Memosails forever. A Pair of Issued Smiths The British Ministry of Defense issued the Smiths W10 ...

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch Hodinkee
Rolex Collectors Watch If you've Yesterday

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch

If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...

The Business of Watches Podcast: A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Girard-Perregaux MB&F; 2 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang

This week on The Business of Watches: a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan, and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't like from the slew of novelties presented during the event.  We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.  We also talk about Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, and the latest MAD Editions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:30 Tim Jeffreys0:32 TanTan Wang 3:38 Gallet (brand website) 5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee) 5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichron...

Review: the H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue Worn & Wound
H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Sep 3, 2026

Review: the H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue

Ask me on any random day to name my favorite indie watchmaker, and there’s a pretty good chance I’m likely to respond with H. Moser. They are all the things I like, in or out of watches: kind of provocative, colorful, approachable, fun, and can be viewed as either completely understated or ridiculously ostentatious (OK that last one is more or less exclusive to watches). They were an early fixation for me as I began to discover higher end independent watchmaking in earnest, so their whole vibe has imprinted on me somewhat, and I’m a little biased by the sheer amount of time I’ve spent thinking about the brand. But the thing is, they’ve changed a lot, even just in the last few years, and the brand that felt fresh and irreverent to me a decade ago feels, well, different now. And the watch I got to spend a good chunk of the summer with is a reflection of those changes, both positive and (maybe?) negative.  I’ve been wanting to spend some real time with the Pioneer Center Seconds in 40mm since the watch was introduced a few years ago. I had previously reviewed the Pioneer “Mega Cool,” which came in the 43mm Pioneer case, which at that time was the only size available for Moser’s sporty, everyday option. I liked that watch quite a bit on the strength of its dial, but the case was just too big and unwieldy for my taste. The 40mm Pioneer was something a lot of people were waiting for, and it kind of boggles the mind that they’re still making the watch in 43mm...

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Sep 2, 2026

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.

Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E Fratello
Sep 2, 2026

Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E

New brands pop up frequently, but few open with a proprietary mechanical complication that actually changes how you read the time throughout the day. Voxel, founded by French creative director Thibault Luc and Vallée de Joux engineer Bruno Herbet, does exactly that with its debut, the Meridion VX01-E. Unveiled during Geneva Watch Days 2026, the […] Visit Hittin’ Switches With The Voxel Meridion VX01-E to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Adventures Aug 28, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom

As part of the brand’s “One of Not Many Crafts” programme, Vacheron Constantin is experimenting with a series of concept watches decorated with unexpected artisanal crafts, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. Some of the decorative method have never before used by Vacheron Constantin, or even watchmaking at large. The series is made up of six creative watches – each a unique creation – that run the gamut of rare crafts, some that are traditional in watchmaking, like gold embroidery, but others that are surprising, like origami. Each watch has a whimsical name stemming from the subject and method: Feathersnake, Glassoctopus, Oraygami, Tigerbroidery, Papercroc, and Woodenwings. From left: Woodenwings, Feathersnake, and Tigerbroidery Initial thoughts These are one-off concept watches, so both availability and price are moot points. But they are impressive, both in terms of technique and visuals, so I imagine Vacheron Constantin will be turning to these artisans for more watches eventually. All are striking, but a few stand out. Papercroc might well be my favourite of the lot, though Vacheron Constantin missed the opportunity to make a paper tiger. On the other hand, when the exotic technique on a tiny scale and quality of the result are taken together, Tigerbroidery is arguably one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest achievements in the rare crafts field. Papercroc Others stand out for the technique. Part of Glassoctopus’s appeal is the rawness of the ...

Doxa and Belmont Watches Team Up for the Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Rado Aug 27, 2026

Doxa and Belmont Watches Team Up for the Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” Limited Edition

Doxa is on a historic, Anne Hathaway-like tear in 2026. The Oscar winning actress will appear in a total of five films by the end of the year, including The Odyssey (a huge hit), The Devil Wears Prada II (also a huge hit), and Mother Mary (very much not a hit but one of my personal favorites of the year so far). Doxa, similarly, is on a bit of a heater, releasing the Sub 200 T.Graph, a well received collaboration with Hodinkee, a Clive Cussler LE, and another LE with Topper Jewelers all in rapid succession. This week, they show that they still have some gas left in the tank for an additional late summer release, this time with San Diego based Belmont Watches.  The new Doxa Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” plays into the military history of San Diego. The city is currently home to the Naval Amphibious Base Colorado and SEAL Team 1, and was formerly the headquarters of the Navy Underwater Demolition Team, known commonly as the Frogmen. The watch, then, is appropriately tool-forward, the type of watch Doxa and Belmont figure might be on the wrist of a SEAL at some point, either on a dive or topside. The dial is in a dark green tone with a prominent texture, the hands are a bright contrasting orange (and the same style as those found on the Doxa Army), and this edition incorporates applied markers. Most notable however, is the fully sandblasted case and bracelet, which is a first for Doxa. That’s a bit of a surprise, to me, given how beloved these watches are as dive tools by rea...

The Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward SJX Watches
Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward Aug 26, 2026

The Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Ming has introduced the 57.05 Comet, a DST-compatible worldtimer with a clever two-piece bezel. The Comet also upholds the long tradition of worldtimers with decorative dials, in this case with a dynamic interference pattern that changes throughout the day. Initial thoughts There are few complications that embody jet-set optimism like the Cottier-style worldtimer, with its noble ambition to create a unified view of the time everywhere on Earth. This inspiration is ever-present in the 57.05 Comet, which takes its name from the world’s first passenger jet, the de Havilland Comet. Interestingly, the worldtime format was partially obsolete even before Cottier came up with his ingenious display in 1931, due to adoption of what we now call Daylight Saving Time (DST) in several Western countries around 1918. I’ve always resented the fact that DST significantly reduces the effectiveness of one of the most elegant complications in watchmaking. Some brands have proposed solutions to this issue, but often the result is overly complex or visually cluttered. Ming’s solution is so intuitive it seems obvious in retrospect, with a two-piece bezel that moves DST observers 15 degrees counterclockwise in the summer to align with the correct hour. Summer mode is indicated by a cut-out in the mobile section of the bezel that reveals a (slightly) luminous red indicator. To be clear, it’s not a perfect solution, since different countries begin and end DST obse...

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time Fratello
Aug 21, 2026

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time

If you don’t like what you see, ask the maker to make something just for you. That’s sort of the principle behind bespoke watches. And all the historical high-end watchmakers have plenty of experience with that because custom-made timepieces are exactly how the watchmaking industry started centuries ago. Creating one-of-a-kind timepieces for demanding customers is […] Visit Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time to read the full article.

Longines Adds a Light Blue Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Worn & Wound
Longines Adds Aug 19, 2026

Longines Adds a Light Blue Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

Don’t look now, but Longines is having an uncommonly strong year. The release of the reworked HydroConquest dive watch in March remains one of the most discussed new releases of the year from a major brand, and their quiet but smart update of the Master Collection in June was also well received. Last month, they launched a new version of one of the more curious watches to be plucked from their archives in recent years, and while it’s certainly more of a niche product than the diver or the classically styled pieces in the Master Collection, it shows that the brand is still considering the enthusiast in spite of what is clearly a larger, big tent approach focusing on core models.  The Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve in light blue is the third such watch following cream, anthracite and black dials introduced in 2024. These are incredibly charming watches in person, and lift from a design that originally debuted in 1959. It’s a fairly straightforward watch, with the central quirk (literally) being a power reserve indicator represented by a subdial in the dead center of the dial. The date appears at 12:00, and studying the dial reveals an idiosyncratic sector-like layout that is easily readable and visually interesting.  The case of the Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve measures a tidy 38mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick. That is a tad taller than I’d typically like on a watch in this style, but I think it’s the price we pay for a modern, tech forward mo...

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Ushio Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...

Recommended Reading: ERG’s “Grand Seiko” Book Is How Modern Brand Books Should Be Done Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Book Aug 17, 2026

Recommended Reading: ERG’s “Grand Seiko” Book Is How Modern Brand Books Should Be Done

Over the past few weeks, I've been taking a slightly overdue look through a backlog of recent acquisitions for my library. As I pointed out recently in a story on Taschen's "Ultimate Collector Watches," buying more books scratches the knowledge-acquisition part of my brain while saving me from writing a check the watch-collector side of my brain can't cash. Yes, I already have a few bins full of books lying around, and piles around the living room. But New York apartment sizes be damned, I'm acquiring more books. I recently had a spinal fusion and, while I'm recovering just fine, I'm still sorting out how to photograph watches without bending or twisting for a few months. All the books in my backlog are under 10 pounds (just barely), so my doctor can't get mad at me for lifting. So I'm going to turn this into a short weekly column to go through some books I have that deserve coverage. And the first one I picked up (both originally a few months back and again, for this column) was the succinctly titled and gorgeously produced "Grand Seiko" by ERG Media published earlier this year. As an official Grand Seiko-approved product, everything carries the brand's (often exacting) seal of approval. But it's also anything but a sanitized and soulless look at a brand's heritage and history. Instead, "Grand Seiko" weaves a beautiful look at watches and watchmaking with Japan's culture and landscape, and Grand Seiko's New York flagship. But first, you've got to appreciate the packaging....

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Aug 16, 2026

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001

The introduction of the distinctly different-shaped Cubitus collection in October 2024 didn’t go unnoticed. Patek Philippe stated that the Cubitus collection’s mission is “to offer a new reinterpretation of the ‘elegant, sporty’ style” through a design in which the square bezel adopts rounded corners, “blending the square, the circle, and the octagon.” When you look at the basic […] Visit Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.

Introducing the Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Aug 10, 2026

Introducing the Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Edition

I’m sure you’ve heard the saying that children are either car kids or dinosaur kids. Personally, I was firmly in the latter category. But the older I get, the more I realize how much I’ve missed out on. Now, I’m not saying I’m interested in those flashy muscle cars (I haven’t hit my midlife crisis yet); instead, I’m interested in vehicles that look like toy cars, the miniaturized version of toys I would have played with as a toddler. A few weeks ago, I was very excited to hear the Fiat Topolino is coming stateside. Just last week, I was looking at import fees to get one of those cute little Japanese trucks into the U.S. And while I once took a class to learn how to ride a Harley-Davidson, I think the Honda Motocompo is much more my speed. For those who aren’t familiar with the Motocompo, this zippy little thing was released by Honda in 1981 as a folding motorcycle designed to fit inside the trunk of the Honda City. The handlebars, seat, and footrests folded into the body, creating a compact rectangular shape that could be stored in the car and used for short trips around town. It has since gained a bit of a cult following and is now the inspiration behind the Seiko 5 Sports MOTOCOMPO Limited Edition. For this release, Seiko used its Seiko 5 Sports Field series as the Motocompo’s base, with a compact 36.4mm case and a yellow dial pulled directly from the original vehicle’s color palette. The Honda logo runs through the black section across the center, wh...

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Aug 8, 2026

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time

The option of being like Thomas and picking the Rolex Explorer II for the best watch I have ever owned was tempting. I thought about it, and yes, my Explorer II 16570 “Polar” was a very good watch in many ways. But it wasn’t the best one I have ever owned. The biggest flaw? The […] Visit The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.