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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Fratello
Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Our friends Jan 29, 2026

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre

Our friends over at Monochrome are on a roll. Today, the team releases another watch in their line of Montres de Souscription. Introducing the Montre de Souscription 5, the Angelus Chronograph Tachymètre in steel with a golden dial. This latest offering comes quickly after the Montre de Souscription 4, which was a Habring² with a […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 5 - Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre to read the full article.

Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus SJX Watches
Angelus Jan 29, 2026

Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus

On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...

Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT Fratello
Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT Mention Jan 29, 2026

Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT

Mention Pan Am to watch fans, and the first association that comes to mind is the iconic Rolex GMT-Master. It has become one of the watch world’s most popular stories, always reflected in the classic travel watch with its red and blue “Pepsi” bezel. But apart from a watch created for Pan Am pilots to […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT to read the full article.

Atelier Wen Introduces a New Perception with a Rare Natural Pietersite Dial Worn & Wound
Rolex makes watches Jan 28, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces a New Perception with a Rare Natural Pietersite Dial

Last year, Atelier Wen released one of my favorite watches of the year in the Inflection, a bold and ambitious integrated bracelet sports watch in tantalum. The reaction to that watch, to my mind, was puzzling. While there were certainly many supporters and admirers of the Inflection, there was also a vocal contingent of enthusiasts on Instagram and various watch blog comment sections (who, to be fair, were probably not customers for this particular watch anyway) griping about the price, and the fact that a brand centered on value and approachability would even make a watch like this (the retail price is just shy of $30,000).  I’ve never cared much for the notion that a brand that makes affordable watches can’t also make watches that are very, very expensive. It’s all relative anyway, right? Rolex makes watches that are considered entry points to the brand at right around $10,000, but they also have watches in their catalog that sail into the six figures. That’s a pretty big delta, certainly larger than the one between Atelier Wen’s entry level pieces and the Inflection. But that’s a topic for another day. Today, we’re focusing on Atelier Wen returning their bread and butter, the Perception, an integrated bracelet sports watch they’ve been iterating on for several years now, this one in steel with a natural pietersite dial.  It’s tempting to say that this watch represents Atelier Wen jumping on the stone dial trend, but the pietersite of it all changes ...

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 Fratello
Maen Hudson 38 MK5 Working Jan 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5

Working in this industry, I sometimes find it strange how I can go for so long without trying a watch that has been available for years. That’s the case with the Maen Hudson diver. The Stockholm-based brand with Dutch roots first introduced the Hudson in 2018. The modern dive watch has evolved, and almost eight […] Visit Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Louis Erard × Monica Bonvicini “Not For You” Limited Edition Of 178 Pieces Fratello
Louis Erard × Monica Bonvicini “Not Jan 28, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Erard × Monica Bonvicini “Not For You” Limited Edition Of 178 Pieces

How do you feel about the combination of art and watches? The mix of the two is almost always polarizing. Quite often, an art-themed watch raises the question, “Is it for me?” A straightforward answer to that question comes in the form of a watch, the Louis Erard × Monica Bonvicini “Not For You.” There […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Erard × Monica Bonvicini “Not For You” Limited Edition Of 178 Pieces to read the full article.

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Jan 28, 2026

Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration

Two years ago, Piaget reintroduced its iconic Polo watch. The Polo 79 in full 18K yellow gold was a very appropriate way to celebrate the maison’s 150th anniversary. For those who thought that version was a bit too flashy, last year, Piaget introduced another variant in all 18K white gold. Now, if that one went […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79 In A Tantalizing Two-Tone Configuration to read the full article.

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Mr Delaloye personally Jan 28, 2026

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum

Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...

First Look - The Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception with Pietersite Dial Monochrome
Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception Jan 28, 2026

First Look - The Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception with Pietersite Dial

Since its founding, Atelier Wen has positioned itself as a link between contemporary watchmaking and Chinese cultural heritage. Created by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand has steadily built its own design identity, drawing from architecture, traditional crafts and modern manufacturing. The Perception collection, its integrated-bracelet sports watch, has become the core expression.  Introduced […]

Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán Fratello
Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán Today Jan 28, 2026

Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán

Today, we go hands-on with a watch from one of my favorite small brands. Atelier Wen rarely misses a beat with its releases, and the new Millésime Perception Xuán is no exception. As we’ll see, it uses a familiar platform but trades engraving for stoneworking. Plus, for those who struggle with the idea of a […] Visit Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán to read the full article.

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities

One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way.  At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques.  The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02.  According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 Fratello
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02

It’s been nearly a year since we’ve heard from Chase Fancher and the team at Oak & Oscar. Here we are, though, in late January with an exciting, albeit highly limited, new release. Hopefully, the Humboldt ExP-02 foreshadows an increased level of in-house production capability. For now, let’s take a look at the watch! I […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 to read the full article.

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve Worn & Wound
Tissot as Jan 26, 2026

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve

There’s a “don’t change it if it ain’t broke” mentality in Swiss watchmaking. Progress is slow, and it often seems that there’s a general distrust of change. An example of this is in the mechanical movements that power most of our watches. Chances are, you have at least one watch with an ETA 2824 or a movement based on the 2824 in your collection. If you’re like me, you have several. For Swiss-made watches of a certain price point, they are the standard. They are “workhorses” that, while not the most feature-rich, offer reliability and serviceability. And part of the reason for that is that the design has been around, largely unchanged, since the 1970s (the 2824-2, which is the current standard, was released in the 80s). That is, until 2013, when ETA launched 80-hour movements based on the 2824-2. First debuted in a Tissot as the Powermatic 80, ETA nearly doubled the 2824’s power reserve by slowing the escapement’s frequency from 28,800bph to 21,600bph, introducing synthetic components, and increasing the mainspring’s capacity. The biggest update to the 2824 format in a generation (though they no longer use that numbering), as ETA is part of Swatch, these movements gave the group’s catalog of brands under Omega an unexpected edge in the market, but were not available to third-party brands, thus limiting their overall impact. The ETA 2824 featured in a Sinn 556i In 2003, Sellita began supplying movements to third parties as a response to Swatch’s...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the b/1.3r, with a Solid Gold “Ripple” Dial Worn & Wound
Jan 26, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the b/1.3r, with a Solid Gold “Ripple” Dial

Some weeks, like last week, frankly, I look at the crop of new releases hitting my inbox and wonder about the state of things in the watch industry. Everything feels like an iteration, a slight tweak, or an attempt to return to the mean. So we get slightly more luxe Speedmasters (where the pricing immediately becomes the talking point), a cadre of new Defys that have us wondering “Didn’t they already make this one?” and Carreras that hint at the watch community sneaking back to the Big Watch Era. Is it possible I’m overreacting? Of course. None of the watches mentioned above are bad by any means, in fact all of them are quite good, objectively speaking. It’s just that they don’t represent a ton of creativity or innovation, and when you work in the industry you become attuned to just how rare genuine creativity in watchmaking really is. It makes sense though. This is a business that’s all about selling watches and the biggest brands in the world need to cast a wide net. Big risks when it comes to design can’t reasonably be expected as the norm.  So we turn to the smaller makers, independents and microbrands, hoping they’ll be the ones to wave the proverbial Freak Flag. The new release from Toledano & Chan, the b/1.3r, with a custom made solid gold dial, is the kind of watch you love to come across in the midst of the big guys refreshing product lines and going through the motions.  Their latest introduces a slightly smaller case in blasted titanium, meas...

Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph

This was the first time I had ever seen one of Qian GuoBiao’s watches in real life. I’d never seen one at watch shows, quickly behind glass, or even in a passing moment at a collector event. I’ve long admired Master Qian’s watches through my laptop screen, but this encounter with his Split-Seconds Chronograph was […] Visit Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.

Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar Fratello
Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar Buying Jan 25, 2026

Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar

Buying a watch you already know is a very different experience from buying one you’re curious about. There’s no discovery phase, no anxious waiting for the honeymoon period to either validate or undermine the decision. Instead, it’s quieter, more deliberate. In many ways, that’s exactly how I felt when I purchased my Doxa Sub 300T […] Visit Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar to read the full article.

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship Quill & Pad
Atelier Wen s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship Jan 24, 2026

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship

The Inflection by Atelier Wen makes a striking statement with its tantalum case, a rare, durable metal with a naturally dark, steely hue that evolves beautifully over time. It’s a watch that feels as unique to the wrist as it is in the light, turning material innovation into art. The post Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier To The Italian Damiani Group Fratello
Baume & Mercier Jan 23, 2026

Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier To The Italian Damiani Group

Yesterday, the watch industry news headline read: “Richemont sells Baume & Mercier to Damiani Group.” The brand that turned 195 last year will soon be in the hands of its Italian distributor. In addition to being the distributor of Baume & Mercier, the family-run group also owns jewelry brands Damiani, Salvini, Bliss, and Calderoni, as […] Visit Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier To The Italian Damiani Group to read the full article.