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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Jun 5, 2026

Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement

As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]

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Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Jun 5, 2026

Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist

The Heuer Monaco was launched in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and the first square, water-resistant chronograph wristwatch. It became an icon thanks to its unconventional design and its close association with motorsport. Over time, the TAG Heuer Monaco has evolved in multiple directions, from faithful heritage recreations to avant-garde concepts. […]

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Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 Fratello
Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026

At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.

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Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning SJX Watches
Ming Taps J.N Shapiro Jun 5, 2026

Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning

Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...

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Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning Hodinkee
Massena Lab Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning

What We Know When Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro teamed up in 2024 to launch the Alternative Horological Alliance, they did so with a product: a "universal" tantalum bracelet. But I've been waiting to see if the AHA (now including Fears and Massena LAB) would team up in other ways. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro announce the 37.06 "Lightning," which blends the dial work Shapiro's team is known for with Ming's signature design language into something that's both new yet familiar. It's not a trick of the light. The dial is really that striking (no pun intended, I promise). Each dial is made from grade-2 titanium and hand-guillochéd in Los Angeles through engine-turning on a traditional rose-engine lathe to create a pattern called "Lightning guilloché." It's a pattern J.N. Shapiro hasn't used on a wristwatch before. The dials are then shipped to Kuala Lumpur, where Ming Thein himself hand-colors each dial by heat-staining it with a butane torch.  It's not as easy as just sticking a torch on a dial. A time too long or too short by even a few seconds, and the color might be uneven. Even if you do it right, the final result might still fail because the guilloché process exposes variations in titanium's crystalline structure. Only one in three dials works out. The dial is still very Ming, as is the rest of the watch, with the flared lugs and engraved crystal that's filled with HyCeram luminous indices. The hands have Super-LumiNova X1. The case is 38mm in diameter, 10.9mm in t...

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What Keeps Vortic Running Worn & Wound
Hamilton some years ago Jun 4, 2026

What Keeps Vortic Running

Back in March, I found myself on an Amtrak train from Philadelphia to Lancaster, PA, a small city that many think of as the ancestral home of American watchmaking. I’d been to Lancaster before, with Hamilton, some years ago, and even though their old factory is no longer in use, the brand’s history is woven throughout the town in any number of ways. But I wasn’t traveling to Lancaster for Hamilton, I was there to see RT Custer, founder of Vortic. The coincidental nature of the line that connects Hamilton, RT, Vortic, and the city of Lancaster is almost beyond belief, and a new layer to that connection would be added in a matter of hours, as RT worked to secure a purchase of vintage pocket watch movements that would take his brand through another year (at least) of production.  RT grew up in Lancaster, and his father still lives in town. Hamilton’s history there, of course, would have been something he encountered in his younger years, working its way into his memory the way a knowledge of baseball might if you happened to grow up in Cooperstown, or movies if you grew up in Hollywood. I don’t know, though, that anything could have predicted that RT would one day find himself running a company that would be so inextricably linked to the history of American watchmaking.  A collection of very early Vortic watches Vortic is one of the most unique watch brands you’ll ever encounter. Founded in 2013 and based in Fort Collins, CO, Vortic repurposes vintage pocket wat...

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Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)

What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...

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Hands-On: With New Sizes and Dial Treatments, There’s a Laureato for Everyone Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato While I’ve fooled Jun 4, 2026

Hands-On: With New Sizes and Dial Treatments, There’s a Laureato for Everyone

If you’ve seen me around in the watch community, it’s very likely you’ve noticed me wearing a Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While I’ve fooled many into thinking I own one of these beauties, the model is in fact my number one requested loaner whenever I have the privilege to borrow a timepiece for a special event. In my years adoring the Laureato, I’ve had the pleasure of trying out several iterations from the bold 42mm (proving that yes, even my rather small 5.75-inch wrist can rock a 42) to the more pared down 38mm. In all the sizes and dial colors that have graced my wrist, one of my favorites has to be the 38mm copper, which, in my humble opinion, is the ideal twist on a two-tone look. Today, Girard-Perregaux is complicating things for me yet again with some incredibly compelling new takes on the Laureato. First up, we have two variations with a solid 18-karat rose gold dials, one in 39mm and one in 36mm. Unsurprisingly, these deeply rival my former-favorite with the copper dial. I would say the copper is a bit more subtle and subdued with a slightly more matte appearance and a rich shade that lands somewhere between yellow and rose gold. The dial of the new models is decidedly shinier and more reflective with a true rose gold color that is both bright and soft at the same time. In addition to feeling torn between the previous copper dial version and the new 18-karat rose gold, I’m equally undecided on my favorite proportions for the Laureato. I thought the 38m...

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Introducing: Timex Atelier Announces Two New Chronographs Hodinkee
Timex Atelier Announces Two New Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Timex Atelier Announces Two New Chronographs

What We Know The Timex Atelier line doubles in size today, adding four new references and continuing to expand into new complications with the announcement of the Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti and the Chronograph Quartz M1q. Designed by Giorgio Galli, the new models join the existing Diver and GMT, bringing the collection to a total of six references. The M1a Ti is built from titanium with a stainless-steel middle case and a black IP coating, measuring 42mm in diameter with a 20mm lug width. The M1q is a skeletonized stainless steel case with the same black IP middle case treatment at 40mm, also with a 20mm lug width.  Both get a fixed tachymeter bezel, a double-domed sapphire crystal with a triple-layer AR coating, and come on either a metal bracelet or an NBR rubber strap with a deployant buckle. The major difference here is that the M1a Ti has an exhibition caseback showcasing the automatic movement beneath. Both feature two-register chronographs—a first for the Atelier line—with matte black dials, silver subdials, and high-polished silver hands. The M1q adds guilloché texture to the dial and a date window at 6. The M1a Ti stays flat matte. Powering the duo are two different sides of the spectrum. The M1a Ti features a Swiss-made Landeron L72 automatic chronograph at 4Hz with a 43-hour power reserve and 28 jewels. The M1q uses a Swiss-made Ronda 5021D quartz movement with a battery. The M1a Ti comes in at $2,250 on a bracelet and $2,100 on a rubber strap. The M1q i...

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Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Jun 4, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty

The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...

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Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jun 4, 2026

Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph

It’s been almost a year since Rado invited me to go to the EFG Swiss Open Gstaad tennis tournament in Switzerland. It was a memorable experience, and as a lifelong tennis player and fan of the sport, I always find it brilliant to see the professionals at work. Another thing that stood out during the […] Visit Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph to read the full article.

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Seiko Celebrates 60 Years Of PADI With A Limited-Edition “Turtle” — Meet The HBB002 Fratello
Seiko Celebrates 60 Years Jun 4, 2026

Seiko Celebrates 60 Years Of PADI With A Limited-Edition “Turtle” — Meet The HBB002

Many of you probably know that Seiko introduced its first diver’s watch in 1965. However, did you also know that the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) was founded the following year? That means the association turns 60 years old this year, and it has already certified more than 30 million divers during that time. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates 60 Years Of PADI With A Limited-Edition “Turtle” — Meet The HBB002 to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Could A Desire For Disconnection Spell A Bright Future For Mechanical Watches? Fratello
Jun 4, 2026

Fratello Talks: Could A Desire For Disconnection Spell A Bright Future For Mechanical Watches?

For years, the assumption was that the world would only become more digital — more connected, more automated, more dependent on screens. And yet, in recent years, there seems to have been a subtle shift in the opposite direction. Vinyl records are thriving, physical books remain popular, wired headphones and MP3 players are back, and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could A Desire For Disconnection Spell A Bright Future For Mechanical Watches? to read the full article.

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Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal Jun 3, 2026

Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist

Heavy is the arm that wears the Inflection. Sorry, there might be a few jokes in this article about how much the Atelier Wen Inflection weighs, but that’s just the cost of making a full tantalum watch. If you’re unfamiliar, tantalum, in addition to being a rare material in watchmaking due to its difficulty to machine, is exceptionally dense. Twice as dense as steel, and thus twice as heavy. When you pick up a tantalum watch, you know it. It also has a unique color. It’s dark gray, approaching the tone of blasted grade-2 titanium, but cooler, hinting at purple. Especially when polished, it has a mysterious quality that is quite beautiful, like looking into a darkened mirror. Polishing tantalum, by the way, is notoriously tough. The appeal of the metal is clear, which is why we’ve seen a little uptick in its use in the high-end by brands like JN Shapiro, Ming, and Zenith, though, to be fair, it’s been in limited use for decades. But the Inflection isn’t just a tantalum watch; it’s a tantalum watch with a tantalum bracelet, and therein lies the Inflection’s novelty, as no other brand currently makes a fully tantalum, integrated bracelet watch. Which, as per the NYT, paraphrasing Jean Arnault says, does not make economic sense. And while it’s truly a flex and fascinating to behold, why the watch succeeds, by my estimation, is actually everything else. $29800 Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist Case Tantalum Movement Girard Perregau...

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Win an $800 Prize Pack From Iron and Resin Worn & Wound
Jun 3, 2026

Win an $800 Prize Pack From Iron and Resin

Iron & Resin makes garments built for the long haul, inspired by the workwear that helped shape America and the gear made to enjoy the ride. Based in Ventura, California, Iron & Resin is for people who expect more from their clothing and value the stories that come with a life well lived. And if you enter this month’s giveaway you could make a strong bond with a whole lot of their goods this summer.

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Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Chrono with the “Bumblebee” SJX Watches
Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Chrono with the “Bumblebee”

Tudor’s sports chronograph offers one of the strongest values in its category, but it was never compact. In a surprising move, Tudor has managed to rework the model into the Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”, which is just 39 mm in diameter and a bit over 13 mm high. The new dimensions make this substantially trimmer than its predecessor, yet the “Bumblebee” still employs the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The “Bumblebee” resolves one of the key criticisms of the Black Bay Chrono. Earlier iterations of the model were appealing in many ways, ranging from value to movement, but a little chunky. The latest model is almost ideal in terms of dimensions, an accomplishment made all the more impressive as the case still contains the MT5813 movement, which has excellent technical credentials but not slimness. With a price tag of CHF5,500, the “Bumblebee” continues to be an obvious value proposition. That said, the bright yellow dial might not be for everyone (personally I prefer the pink or blue prior models), but the new case size is spot on. Given past practice, however, additional dial colours are probably in the works, so this case size will likely be available in more colours eventually. Bright but not bigger The “Bumblebee” gets its name from the high contrast dial that’s a bright yellow matched with black registers. The dial markings, hands, and indices are also black, as is the aluminium bezel insert. While yellow is an unusual colour for...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc Hodinkee
Ming next - there will Jun 3, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year.   Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces.  Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website.  Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before.  But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...

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Tudor Introduces the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 in a New Smaller Case Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Introduces the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 in a New Smaller Case

Coming out of Watches & Wonders, there was plenty of commentary that Tudor had an iterative, kind of “off” year with a confusing pseudo-heritage piece in the Monarch being an unexpected standard bearer. We, frankly, really enjoyed all the new stuff, and thought some of the reactions were a bit out of left field, but regardless, I think their announcement today should get many of the skeptics claiming Tudor has lost a step to rethink their takes. The new Tudor “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 is not merely a fun new summer color for their flagship chronograph, but an entirely new case size for that watch that speaks directly to enthusiasts who have been asking for a scaled down version.  Tudor is positioning the “Bumblebee” as a follow up to the Pink and Flamingo Blue chronographs that have appeared over the last few years. These brightly colored watches have been incredibly popular with collectors as alternatives to the standard black and white variants. Here we have a bright yellow dial with contrasting black subdials at 9 and 3 with a black tachymeter bezel in aluminum. The snowflake hands and hour markers are also outlined in black, and there’s a black minute track at the dial’s perimeter, all of which play up the “Bumblebee” theme.  But the real news here is that new case. It measures 39mm in diameter in stainless steel, and 13.1mm in height. That’s down from 14.1mm tall on the larger 41mm chronograph, which is a meaningful difference. The lug to...

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Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT Fratello
Jun 3, 2026

Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT

The fun thing about my hands-on experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey is that I went into it rather blindly. While that is nothing special in and of itself, when two Fratello team members actually own an Arken Alterum, it is slightly more remarkable. Obviously, I knew about the brand and the watch […] Visit Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT to read the full article.

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The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme Fratello
Rolex Datejust Jun 3, 2026

The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme

One of the Rolex novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026 was the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 with a green ombré lacquer dial (ref. 126334). Essentially, it is a new dial variant for the largest Datejusts in The Crown’s collection. However, it’s not just a new color but also part of a series of watches marking […] Visit The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme to read the full article.

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Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date Fratello
Oris Honors Lou Gehrig Jun 2, 2026

Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date

Even if you’re Dutch and not a baseball fan, the name Lou Gehrig rings a bell. In my case, I knew he was a player for the New York Yankees, but that was it. If you’re American, you probably know him as “The Iron Horse.” Few athletes have left a mark on American sport quite […] Visit Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date to read the full article.

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Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Gives Jun 2, 2026

Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026

Oris has a habit of saving its strangest ideas for one watch a year. The Hölstein Edition started in 2020 as an annual limited release tied to the brand's June 1 birthday, and it has always leaned into playful reinterpretation. This year the company turned to the Artelier, the dress collection it relaunched a few months ago with mid-century-inspired dials. The result is the Hölstein Edition 2026, a 250-piece run with a few changes that go deeper than the finish.

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