Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova & Caravelle Revive the Sea Hunter ‘Devil Diver’, Priced Under $400
Bulova’s Caravelle revives the Caravelle Devil Diver: a 39mm automatic dive watch with 200m WR, vintage charm, and $375 price tag.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova’s Caravelle revives the Caravelle Devil Diver: a 39mm automatic dive watch with 200m WR, vintage charm, and $375 price tag.
WatchAdvice
Hublot are an ever-present disruptor of the traditional watch industry, but do the brand’s horological standards ‘walk the talk?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: Tough, light & unobtrusive on-wrist Bold design married with demure aesthetics Surprising variation of finishes and detailing What We Don’t: No lume on a sports watch? Chronograph operation feels tougher than most Movement choice makes for a challenging value proposition Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When I was first introduced to the luxury watch industry and all the wonders it holds, it was an overwhelming experience. This isn’t a ground-breaking revelation – I’m sure many of you shared the same circumstances at one point – but I found myself quickly scrambling for some watch advice, no pun intended. However, since I was the only watch nerd (that I knew of) in my demographic, I naturally navigated online. There, I was told a great many facts and rules. Some of them were good, like “don’t change the date between 9 and 3 o’clock,” or “take the watch off before you adjust the time.” Other bits and pieces, however, were just opinions disguised as fact. “Never buy [this brand],” “only buy [that brand] …” All the typical drivel we roll our eyes at now; I integrated into my own beliefs as a then watch noob. Of course, this also led me to one of the watch community’s biggest discourses: Hublot. From what I saw, th...
Time+Tide
In this episode, Andrew, Eleonor, and Kristian debate the advantages big brands and microbrands in the watch landscape have.The post A Matter of Time Episode 06: Christopher Ward versus Tudor? Microbrands versus big brands? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It should come as no surprise to those who regularly read my work that I’m a fan of Tudor watches. In fact, to mark a significant personal milestone, I bought a Tudor Black Bay 58 for my 30th birthday. Today, though, we’re looking at a very different watch, the Tudor Heritage Ranger. This is not […] Visit Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Ahead Of Time: Celebrating 15 Years of Ressence Ressence has partnered with the Belgian publishing house Luster on Ahead of Time, a new book released to celebrate the independent watch brand’s 15 year anniversary. This, however, is not a typical watch book (which we’d never expect from Ressence, anyway). Ahead of Time is billed as an exploration of what the future will look like, and features interviews with 20 leading voices in design and technology. Among the participants are OpenAI CEO Sam Altman, Airbnb co-founder Joe Gebbia, and Kering CEO Luca de Meo. The new book is available now through the Ressence website, and sells for $35. Stroup Hobby Shop In a recent New York Times article, Michael Venutolo-Mantovani pulls back the curtain on the operation, showing just what makes the Stroup Hobby Shop tick. Originally founded by H.M. Stroup in 1949, the Stroup Hobby Shop began as a retirement hobby that would become the foundation for four generations of master clockmakers. Working alongside his grandfather, father, and brother, Luther joined the shop part time in 1972, before turning the family hobby into a business the following year. Over the last 76 years, nea...
SJX Watches
Seven years after writing his first editorial for SJX Watches, Brandon Moore joins the SJX team as full-time Editorial Director. Like many of us, Brandon got his start in the watch community through the PuristS forum (now WatchProSite), in 2008. A decade later he began writing about topics like the community’s obsession with in-house movements and how finishing has captured the industry in the age of social media. In 2023 he became a regular contributor while still working full time in software sales, until now. Brandon’s personal interests lie in contemporary high-end watchmaking, with a particular affinity for independent brands, a long-time focus of SJX Watches. He also enjoys pulling back the curtain on watch production with behind-the-scenes visits to manufactures big and small. In addition, Brandon co-hosts the SJX Podcast, where he and SJX cover new releases and industry news in a more candid format.
Teddy Baldassarre
Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century. To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...
Monochrome
Without a doubt, one of the most important racing chronographs ever created and arguably the most emblematic watch of the entire history of Heuer and TAG Heuer… From the first 1963 Heuer Carrera chronographs in the original round cases, the C-Shape cases to house the new automatic movements in 1969, the barrel-shaped Carreras, powered by […]
Worn & Wound
Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year. The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact. According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...
Time+Tide
Limited to 99 pieces, each of these Gothic hand-engraved watches is the result of over 50 hours of work, with each watch being unique.The post Louis Erard joins forces with artisanal engraver Maksym Shavlak on the surprisingly affordable Gravée Main appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! We return to a series of budget-related lists after focusing on Geneva Watch Days for two weeks and finding the best collabs last week. Today, we’re starting another three-list series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available picks under €500. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]
Time+Tide
Hodinkee’s first limited edition since its acquisition by Watches of Switzerland is an understated, extremely considered retro tool watch.The post Nivada Grenchen’s Antarctic GMT returns in a 36mm Hodinkee limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bernaron releases their first complicated watch with the Bernaron Quantième Annuel, now in platinum with two dial options.
Monochrome
A year after the relaunch of one of the oldest names in the industry, Favre Leuba is set to introduce its latest collection. During Geneva Watch Days, we sat down with Patrik Hoffmann, CEO for the brand, to learn all the ins and outs concerning the creation of the new Chief Skeleton. Based on the […]
Fratello
In 2010, industrial designer Benoît Mintiens started a company called Ressence. His mission was to create a mechanical watch that could tell people the time in the most user-friendly way possible. Now, 15 years later, the brand’s watches are still in a league of their own, both in terms of design and the mechanics behind […] Visit Ressence Celebrates Its 15th Anniversary With An Optimistic And Human-Centric View Of The Future to read the full article.
Fratello
Let’s start with a riddle: what comes after tiger, dragon, and snake? The correct answer is “horse,” as you probably have guessed after reading the title. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse will debut ahead of the Chinese New Year at the brand’s Dream Shaper exhibition in Shanghai in September 2025. The watch pays tribute […] Visit Introducing: The Handcrafted Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Horse And Three Other Themed Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, we come to you live from Geneva for a special conversation with Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles. For those unfamiliar, Gerald Charles is the independent watch brand founded in 2000 by the late, great Gérald Genta. Today, under the stewardship of Ziviani, the brand […] Visit Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva] to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Before I get into all the watch roundup goodness, I would like to begin this article with a concession: the term “affordable luxury” is somewhat of an oxymoron, a phrase inherently ripe with contradictions, beyond the scope of just watches. Getting that out of the way, moving forward, I am choosing to interpret the term as watches that punch above their weight class in terms of their looks, utility, and price point. The watches I’ve chosen range greatly in style and functionality, but the connecting thread among the pack is that they all deliver quality at what I would consider a reasonable price, especially given the often eye-boggling price tags that are so common in this hobby. One more concession: the very word “affordable” is extremely subjective. The difference in what one person deems affordable compared to another can be a cavernous gap with varying numbers of digits. To get personal for a brief moment, what is most comfortably affordable to me with my purchasing power is finding deals on second-hand, vintage mechanical watches on eBay, most often around or below the $100 mark. But because that method of watch shopping is full of risk (I always prepare myself that what I’ve purchased might very well not even keep time anymore), my roundup is focused exclusively on contemporary watches that you can buy from reputable retailers (us, perhaps?) or from the brand directly, often complete with reasonable warranties and receipts. So, enough yammering from yo...
Worn & Wound
Every so often, you come across new releases that feel less like a stranger and more like someone you’ve met before, but can’t quite place. This feeling cropped up more and more as the vintage revival trend took a firm grasp on the watch industry, as brands rushed to bring back “iconic” references from the obscure archives. However, from the moment the Caravelle Sea Hunter hit my hand and that feeling crept in, it probably wasn’t for the reason you might assume. To be fair and to frame this review properly for all of you, I have only spent two brief periods of romance with Sea Hunter up until now. That has been enough time for me to claim that the Caravelle by Bulova is here to fill a void left by one of, if not the, most legendary dive watches ever made for the modern audience, the Seiko SKX. However, we can circle back to that in a moment. Caravelle was launched as the more affordable younger sibling operating underneath the Bulova brand in 1962 as a direct competitor to Timex. Offering jeweled movements at a price point that others could not, Caravelle eventually grew to become the largest-selling jeweled-movement watch manufacturer in the United States by 1968. In that swath of mass-produced affordable wrist watches sat a line of diving tool watches bearing the name Sea Hunter, with the soon-to-be iconic 666 depth rating, which brought about the ‘Devil Diver’ nickname. It was one of those Devil Divers, released in 1969, that Caravelle chose to do someth...
Time+Tide
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, this Bianchet claims the title of the thinnest fully sapphire tourbillon watch in the world.The post Bianchet’s new UltraFino is here to break records with a new full sapphire tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Monochrome
The Jazzmaster collection, and specifically the Skeleton editions, has earned its place as one of Hamilton‘s distinctive designs, offering a view into the beating heart of a modern automatic movement. It’s a design that balances Hamilton’s classic dress-watch DNA with a contemporary twist. Over the years, the model has appeared in several dial colours, case […]
Worn & Wound
If you ever have the chance to try on a Greubel Forsey - any Greubel Forsey - take it. For one thing, these are rare watches, and it’s a cool thing to be able to say you’ve done. For another, Greubel makes objectively awesome watches, and any watch enthusiast should try out as many awesome watches as they can. But more important than that, Greubel Forsey is one of those brands whose quality is hard to understand through the internet. Greubel Forsey is a brand that defies expectation. Since the launch of Greubel’s first watch in 2004, Greubel Forsey has pushed the limits of both technical and aesthetic watchmaking, and they’ve done it all without sacrificing their unique character, or seemingly ever needing to compromise. In fact, the Greubel Forsey of today is - at least outwardly - a brand with a clearer identity than most, that also happens to do what it does really, really well. A few weeks ago, in Geneva, our two Zachs had the chance to sit down with the brand to see the proof of that in person, and to catch up on some of Greubel’s latest releases, including the brand new QP Balancier and the new Nano Foudroyante - a direct successor to last year’s superb Nano Foudroyante EWT - each of which have been announced in highly limited editions of 22 watches, and each of which are great reminders of just how far Greubel has come in the last 25 years. It also doesn’t hurt that both the QP Balancier and the Nano Foudroyante easily rank among the most...
Fratello
If you’re looking for an affordable, outspoken sports watch that can handle rough situations, the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme might be for you. However, the 39mm watch that debuted last year might be too boldly colored for your taste. Alpina fixed that by releasing two new versions - one with a black dial and another […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme With A Retro Touch-Up to read the full article.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years with a new manual wound manufacture Cal. 3670 wrist watch with the superb métiers d'art miniature sculpture.
Monochrome
The Octo Finissimo collection by Bulgari doesn’t need an introduction anymore. One of the few emblematic lineups to have surfaced over the last decade, the OF has become the king of ultra-thin watchmaking, beating one record of thinness after another. But Bulgari’s slim-fit watch is more than just its slender profile and complex movements. It […]
Hodinkee
A grueling climb, a screaming marmot, and the watch that ties it all together.
SJX Watches
The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...
Monochrome
While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]
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