Hodinkee
Essays: In My First Year In Watches, One Brand Stood Above The Rest
Navigating my first year in the watch world by holding onto what felt familiar.
21,878 articles · 5,687 videos found · page 385 of 919
Hodinkee
Navigating my first year in the watch world by holding onto what felt familiar.
Monochrome
This is an endless debate in the small circle of watch enthusiasts… Should a dive watch be equipped with a date or not? Purists, sometimes slightly biased in their judgments, will tell you in a very strict manner that no, a date has no place on the dial of a dive or tool watch! “Who […]
Worn & Wound
And just like that, it’s Super Watch Season. Every year we see a handful of watches that come to market that exist for the purpose of displaying the absolute pinnacle of what a brand can accomplish. Think of ultra complicated watches from Vacheron Constantin released in recent years, or pieces from Greubel Forsey focused on extravagant hand finishing and machining. The new release from Girard-Perregaux feels like a member of this rare category. The new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges combines a tourbillon and a minute repeater with GP’s famous “Three Bridges” movement architecture. The highlight here, beyond the rarity of a repeater, is that the new Calibre GP9530 is a self-winding movement (via a micro-rotor), which is exceedingly rare among chiming watches and, to a lesser extent, tourbillons. Girard-Perregaux has a long history in chiming watches that dates back to the 1820s, and the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is fashioned as a tribute to those earliest repeaters, while being unapologetically contemporary in its design. Certainly part of that tribute is in the craftsmanship itself, and in the use of the most modern technology available to create the best chiming mechanism possible. To that end, the movement has been radically skeletonized not only for aesthetic reasons but to prioritize resonance. According to the brand, every technical choice made in the development of the new watch was made in the name of optimizing the sound of the chime. For a repeat...
Monochrome
Few timepieces showcase the technical sophistication of traditional watchmaking as clearly as minute repeaters. The new Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges introduces this complication with its demanding mechanism, combined with a tourbillon and an automatic micro-rotor winding system. The watch is built around the brand’s recognisable Three Bridges architecture, presented in a modern openworked interpretation […]
Monochrome
“Kollokium is not a brand. As pretentious and cliché as that sounds, it’s true.” So, how could we define Kollokium? It’s a collaborative project between three friends, all fairly established names within the watch industry: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile). Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking, and especially branding, Kollokium frees itself […]
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Hodinkee
Over-the-top watchmaking meets a design full of character for a showcase of the brand at its best.
Worn & Wound
I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart. With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Timex Expedition Freedive Solar is an affordable solar watch built from ocean-bound plastic, with a rotating bezel and a $159 price tag.
Hodinkee
Inspired by the mixing consoles of the iconic Abbey Road Studios, the new Otsuka Lotec No. 8 features a uniquely inventive design.
Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec… The Japanese brand (or should we call it an atelier) that makes some noise in the global watch collecting community, despite being unavailable outside of Japan – which might partially explain its popularity. A true JDM sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned self-taught, independent watchmaker, specialised […]
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Monochrome
When it comes to finding a solid, accessible yet appealing watch meant to be a reliable companion for most of the moments in your life, from the office to the weekend fun, the choice is wide, to say the least. With its Commander collection, Swiss brand Mido has a strong alternative, with a modern, sleek […]
Monochrome
Junghans is better known for its Bauhaus-inspired pieces, such as the Max Bill series, but the German watchmaker has also ventured into the pilots’ and sports territories. With the new Aquaris series, the brand expands its Sport collection by adding four new references: the Aquaris Diver with green or orange accents, and the more lifestyle-oriented […]
Monochrome
If you’ve been reading MONOCHROME for some time now, you might know that I have a very strong connection with the Rolex Explorer 36mm, in particular the 1990s reference 14270. Not only is it a watch that I consider to be the perfect example of what a yougntimer is, but it’s also, in my books, […]
Hodinkee
One of Europe's largest jewelry shows, Inhorgenta is again a hub for watch brands seeking fresh clientele.
Time+Tide
We chat with the Aussie tennis star about his bona fide passion for watchmaking, as well as whether he's ever broken a watch playing tennis.The post Australia’s very own tennis Maestro, Alex de Minaur, on falling in love with watches and designing his ideal daily appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Unimatic has introduced the Modello Cinque UT5-TANC, a new collaboration developed with British designer Nigel Cabourn and menswear retailer The Armoury. The watch continues Unimatic’s previous work with Cabourn, which began in 2019, while also marking the brand’s latest project with Hong Kong-based menswear store The Armoury. Anyone familiar with Cabourn’s work will already know his passion for vintage army style, so the UT5-TANC should feel right at home within the British designer’s aesthetics. The UT5-TANC takes the form of a compact expedition-style tool watch built around Unimatic’s 36mm Modello Cinque case. Made from 316L stainless steel and finished with a stonewashed Cerakote coating, the watch comes in two versions: UT5-TANC-A with a green case and UT5-TANC-B in navy blue, with both references sharing the same navy dial. As mentioned, the case follows the familiar Modello Cinque layout, with a fixed monoblock bezel and an 8mm screw-down crown bearing Unimatic’s Alchemical Sun emblem. Flipping the watch around reveals a caseback that’s engraved with a dazzle camouflage pattern. To keep the overall restraint of the expedition watch – or, as the brand has put it “exploration over ornament” – the dial is minimally designed and more about function than form. For example, the numerals are filled with Super-LumiNova GL old radium, along with luminous dial markings and an open seconds track to aid visibility in low light. The Nigel Cabourn logo appe...
Time+Tide
Does the Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris Shadow dive watch, in titanium and with a 68-hour LJP movement, deliver bang for the buck at €1.2K?The post Does the Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’ deliver good bang for the buck? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm is an appealing new variant of a watch that’s already in short supply, famous as much for its scarcity as its octagonal bezel. Seen previously in white gold, the Jumbo Openworked returns at the top of its class with a case made from lightweight titanium and palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material that gives the bezel its almost ethereal mirror finish. The Jumbo Openworked is not a limited edition, but its undeniable appeal will make it hard to come by, even by Royal Oak standards. Ideal configuration The Royal Oak is one of the most sought-after watches in the industry, and one of the few collections that consistently trades at a premium to retail, according to WatchCharts. With its iconic Genta design, slim form factor, and high-end calibre, it’s easy to see why. That said, some configurations are more appealing than others, and this titanium and palladium version of the Jumbo Openworked ranks highly in the Royal Oak pantheon. It’s worth exploring why it works. Starting with the sizing. In 1972, the Royal Oak was broad and flat by industry standards, but the “Jumbo” moniker now feels misleading for a 39 mm watch. Ironically, the “Extra-Thin” designation also feels misleading for the opposite reason - 8.1 mm is plenty thin, but there are now so many thinner watches that the terminology feels out of date. Setting aside AP’s historical naming conventions, the Jumbo Openworked...
Fratello
Lebond has carved out a special niche for itself in the watch industry. The Spanish brand creates watches for architecture enthusiasts. For its first two releases, Lebond collaborated with famous architects. The inaugural Lebond Siza from 2023 was designed by the famous Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza, while the second release, the Lebond Souto Moura, was […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish Lebond Attraction to read the full article.
Fratello
While Hanhart is known for its historically inspired pilot’s chronographs, today’s latest model takes its cues from a very different form of motor-powered conveyance. The 417 Ti Desert Pilot Limited Edition is rooted in desert rally racing. As we’ll see, though, this isn’t just a dial color variation. Plus, the watch is available in two […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart 417 Ti Desert Pilot Limited Editions to read the full article.
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Monochrome
People often say “bigger is better”, but also “big things come in small packages”. While both statements can be very true in multiple aspects of life, it also goes for watches. In some instances, you want a bit of size and heft in a watch, while on other occasions, you want something a bit more […]
Time+Tide
An unexpected diver from Kurono Tokyo and an artistic masterpiece from Louis Vuitton headlined last week in the watch world.The post New releases from Serica, Parmigiani Fleurier, Louis Vuitton and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The countdown to Windup Watch Fair Dallas is officially on, and we’re excited to spotlight one of the main events with our pals at Bulova, helping bring this year’s show to life. As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and the watch-curious alike, Windup is the best place to go hands-on with unique watches from around the world-and we’re thrilled to return to Dallas for the second year in a row. This year’s event takes place at the always lively Hickory Street Annex, a perfect setting for a weekend packed with watches, community, and a few surprises along the way. Not only are we expanding Windup Dallas to three full days this year, but we’re also introducing something new to the Windup experience. On Saturday evening, Bulova will host the Bulova Block Party & BBQ, taking place just outside the venue: The Bulova Block Party & BBQ Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 14: 4:30PM – 7PM Early registration is recommended Expect Texas-style BBQ and an outdoor bar with amazing food and beverages available for purchase, live music, and plenty of reasons to stick around after the show floor closes. Bulova will be showcasing collaborations that tap into different corners of American heritage-from the world of motorsports to the enduring style of the American West. Bulova, Shelby, and the Spirit of American Performance Bulova’s connection to racing runs deep. During the 1960s and ’70s, the brand served as...
Worn & Wound
The Seiko SNA411 has been an icon of the watch industry for years. Frequently appearing on “Best Affordable Watches” lists, it’s no wonder Seiko’s other two variants would eventually catch the eye of collectors as well. The SN413 is far and away the most sought-after variant of the Flightmaster formula, but what about the often overlooked SNA414? I’ll be the first to admit that gold-tone watches are typically not in habitual rotation within my collection––aside from a few special pieces––but that doesn’t mean there’s not a lot to enjoy about this model. What makes the SNA414 a good candidate for your next acquisition? Let’s find out. The SNA414 History and Design Nailing down a definite release date for the SNA414 is difficult, but according to numerous blogs, press releases, and wristwatch websites, it appears this variant began production sometime between late 2007 and early 2008. I’m unsure whether all three variants of the lineup were released at the same time, but from sources consulted online, it appears they were at least announced and brought to market around the same time. I must note that the name “Flightmaster” may confuse a few collectors out there who may have seen another model of Seiko’s catalog nicknamed with the same moniker. In the 1990s, the first iteration of the Flightmaster was released with the 7T34 movement. The -6A09 variant is technically the first gold Flightmaster the brand produced, making the subject of this art...
Monochrome
Suppose you know the Dutch indie watchmaking scene, then De Rijke & Co. is the name you must be familiar with. Founded by Laurens De Rijke, the brand began almost by accident during a vintage Vespa trip, when the idea for a watch specifically designed for driving emerged. De Rijke’s concept of a driver’s watch […]
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