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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmidt And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 2, 2026

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmidt And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties

It's become a Watches & Wonders tradition: Ben Clymer sits down with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmidt to walk through the brand's latest releases from this year's show. This year, that means the two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. Schmidt walks through each, and the conversation touches on a broader thread running through Lange's recent work—a push toward smaller, more wearable proportions, following last year's 1815 in 34mm. On the 36mm Saxonias, Schmidt explains the thinking: "The intention was always to go as small as possible, but there were two elements that we wouldn't sacrifice to get smaller or thinner. One is legibility, and the other is robustness." 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar The Lange 1 updates are subtle but deliberate—"small changes, but important changes," as Schmidt puts it. The two discuss what those differences actually are and how they add up, with Schmidt drawing on the brand's long view: "We've learned a lot in the last 20 years about case sizes and how to make watches sit comfortably on the wrist." Schmidt also shares some insight into the biggest challenge the team faced on the dial. For the full video, click here.

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmid And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 2, 2026

Watch It: Wilhelm Schmid And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne's Watches & Wonders Novelties

It's become a Watches & Wonders tradition: Ben Clymer sits down with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid to walk through the brand's latest releases from this year's show. This year, that means the two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. Schmid walks through each, and the conversation touches on a broader thread running through Lange's recent work—a push toward smaller, more wearable proportions, following last year's 1815 in 34mm. On the 36mm Saxonias, Schmid explains the thinking: "The intention was always to go as small as possible, but there were two elements that we wouldn't sacrifice to get smaller or thinner. One is legibility, and the other is robustness." 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar The Lange 1 updates are subtle but deliberate—"small changes, but important changes," as Schmid puts it. The two discuss what those differences actually are and how they add up, with Schmid drawing on the brand's long view: "We've learned a lot in the last 20 years about case sizes and how to make watches sit comfortably on the wrist." Schmid also shares some insight into the biggest challenge the team faced on the dial. For the full video, click here.

Introducing the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Double Jun 2, 2026

Introducing the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.

The emergence of Naoya Hida as a major player in the independent space has been one of the more exciting developments in watches over the last few years. Whether Hida’s watches are to your taste or not (or your budget) there’s no denying that the brand presents a crystal clear point of view and takes no shortcuts to execute on it. In an environment with, frankly, a lot of half baked ideas, there’s something satisfying about a brand that knows exactly what it is. So it’s incredibly interesting that right on the heels of their recent 2026 launches, the brand has announced a new collaboration with Zenith on their G.F.J. platform.  This is honestly one of those world-colliding moments for me and I’m pretty excited about not only the watch but what this might signal for both Zenith and Naoya Hida moving forward. The G.F.J. feels like the right line for a brand like Naoya Hida to work within – it’s already cited as a watch that trades a little on the current trend toward artisanal dials (in exotic stones, specifically) that have become favorites among many high end indies. And there’s an undeniable synergy between the classic mid century design codes of the G.F.J. case and Naoya Hida’s aesthetic sensibility.  The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is the first in what Zenith is referring to as their new “Double Signed” program, which will, according to the brand, invite selected partners to reinterpret iconic references. The naming con...

Hands-on – The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite, a Celestial Dial for the 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Orient Jun 2, 2026

Hands-on – The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite, a Celestial Dial for the 75th Anniversary

Orient Star is not usually the first name that comes to mind when looking for meteorite-dial watches. The Japanese brand has instead built a reputation around solid mechanics, attractive finishing, and sensible pricing for its watches. That is precisely why the new M34 F8 Date Meteorite caught our attention when it was announced earlier this […]

Introducing – The New Delma Commander 40mm, A More Compact and Versatile Pilot’s Watch Monochrome
Jun 2, 2026

Introducing – The New Delma Commander 40mm, A More Compact and Versatile Pilot’s Watch

In 2024, Delma celebrated its 100th anniversary with a few pleasant releases, such as the Heritage Chronograph, and even unexpected ones, such as the 1924 Tourbillon. Unexpected because the brand is particularly known for professional dive watches such as the Shell Star, Blue Shark and Quattro, alongside sports-oriented collections like the Midland and racing-inspired Continental. […]

Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co. Fratello
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Double Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.

Zenith’s caliber 135 continues its revival within the brand’s modern lineup with a new version. After the restored vintage-powered editions from 2022 and the following G.F.J. releases in 2025 and 2026, the brand now adds a special, limited collaboration with Naoya Hida to the collection. This time, the focus shifts toward Japanese independent watchmaking. The […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co. to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors” Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors”

Shortly after Seiko released four revamped Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs for its 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand drops two fresh new summer “flavors.” No, they’re not pistachio and raspberry ice cream —although, come to think of it, matcha (green tea) and sakura (cherry blossom) ice cream would make more sense — but instead, Crystal […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors” to read the full article.

Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces Jun 2, 2026

Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces the Carillon Tourbillon to mark three decades of the brand, and to celebrate how it all began — by restoring antiques. Inspired by an early 19th-century watch founder Michel Parmigiani brought back to life decades ago, the watch repeats the minutes on four serpentine gongs with exposed repeater work, and a tourbillon, and somehow manages to fit 12 days of power reserve into a case that’s just 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm thick. Initial thoughts My first thought on seeing the movement was that it looked like something from the early 19th century, with exposed repeater work and serpentine gongs. That was, of course, the intent. In 1980, Michel Parmigiani became a steward of Maurice Yves Sandoz’s collection of antique watches and automata. There he worked on a wandering hours quarter repeater signed Perrin Frères, which inspired the present watch. The Perrin Frères repeater that inspired the Carillon Tourbillon. Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Modern collectors have relatively little interest in this genre, and a nearly identical watch — this time signed Vaucher Frères, the firm after which the modern Vaucher company is named — sold for only CHF21,000 at Christie’s two years ago. But the watch’s esoteric design and unique story made it ripe for revival. But of course it’s not an exact replica. This modern homage is a keyless winding lever watch, while the inspiration was key wind with a cylinder escapement. As a pleasant surp...

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Jun 2, 2026

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically.  Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics.  The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year.  So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...

Introducing: Audemars Piguet Announces New Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs In Both 42mm and 37mm Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Announces New Royal Oak Jun 1, 2026

Introducing: Audemars Piguet Announces New Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs In Both 42mm and 37mm

What We Know Big, bold, and unapologetically brash, the Royal Oak Offshore has never been the watch for everyone. But with three fresh colorways for 42mm chronographs in steel and titanium, and a triumvirate of brand-new 37mm models in titanium and pink gold, the vaunted watchmaker from Le Brassus is giving us a few more reasons to consider its dedicated diver.  There are three new 42mm models in three new color combinations, all featuring luminescent white 'bathtub' style hands, Arabic numeral hour markers in 18 carat gold, a flyback chronograph with hour, minute, and second counters, and a tachymeter scale rehaut inner bezel and date window at 3 o'clock. First up, the only new titanium model at this size, it features a dark grey méga tapisserie dial with dark grey and silver-toned counters with yellow and turquoise accents. The Arabic numeral hour markers are turquoise while the yellow chronograph hand matches the counter hands at 9 and 12 o'clock with a white seconds hand at 6 o'clock. Sections of the tachymeter scale are printed in yellow and white, while the AP logo in white sits just left of the date window. The silver hour and minute chronograph counters are accented in turquoise and grey. The case is 15.3mm thick and features a sapphire open caseback, a black-rubber and titanium screw-down crown with contrasting yellow and black rubber push pieces, and boasts water resistance of 100 meters.  The new titanium Offshore chronograph comes on an interchangeable dark ...

Kollokium Introduces the Projekt 02 Variant C Worn & Wound
Jun 1, 2026

Kollokium Introduces the Projekt 02 Variant C

In the span of just a few short years, Kollokium has gone from a nearly secret insider side project with a hard to discern future to a fully fledged brand. When the Projekt 01 first came on the scene, it was a bit of a mystery to most what the founders (Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) had planned, or even if they had planned anything at all. There was a one-off quality to that initial drop that seemed to communicate it could all be abandoned at any moment.  Honestly, the watch industry probably needs a little more of that energy – watches that exist outside of a business plan and represent an artistic vision more than a marketing ploy. But credit to Kollokium for being smart about the way they’ve managed expectations and continue to move the ball forward across several subsequent releases since the Projekt 01. In addition to new colorways for that original design, they’ve introduced an entirely watch (not so creatively called the Projekt 02) that builds on the design language introduced in the first piece and deepens the complexity pretty significantly. They’ve just announced the latest Projekt 02, Variant C, and it’s the latest chance for collectors to get in on one of the most interesting new designs in indie watchmaking.  As a refresher, the Projekt 02 is defined by a dial built on a series of stacked plates (over 60 of them) in different shapes and sizes that when fully assembled resemble a three dimensional topographical map. The terrain of t...

Introducing – The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401 Monochrome
Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 Jun 1, 2026

Introducing – The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401

The Hölstein Editions are Oris’ annual limited-edition watches, released each June 1st to celebrate the brand’s birthday and honour its roots in Hölstein, Switzerland. Introduced in the early 2000s, the more elegant Artelier family was fully redesigned this year to become a more contemporary and versatile lineup. Marking its 122nd birthday, Oris releases the Hölstein Edition 2026, […]

SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Jun 1, 2026

SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex

For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Roventa-Henex chief executive Jérôme Biard at the company’s secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes. The discussion covers the emergence of the ‘micro-brand’ (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie expands Jun 1, 2026

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph

H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? Fratello
May 31, 2026

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch?

Spend enough time around watch enthusiasts, and you’ll notice an interesting pattern. While discussions often revolve around the usual heavy hitters, at some point, seasoned collectors begin searching for something different. People can become tired of wearing the same pieces as everyone else. Yet, they crave an elegant everyday watch and perhaps something that prioritizes […] Visit What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or May 31, 2026

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series

Jaeger-LeCoultre builds on last year’s smash-hit Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” in 18K pink gold with five new models. The simple yet clever addition of an 18K pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet renewed interest in this classic design. By pairing the case and dial with a matching metal bracelet, the Reverso regained its original essence. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Vs May 31, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we pit two Bioceramic hype monsters against each other. Daan defends the original Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch. Thomas counters with the recent Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop. Which collaborative Swatch model did it better? Let’s see! The Royal Pop retails for €385 or €400, depending […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch to read the full article.

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000? Fratello
May 30, 2026

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000?

The market for dive watches below €2,000 has never been stronger. A decade ago, this price category was filled mostly with entry-level Swiss divers and oversized tool watches with questionable finishing. In 2026, however, the segment has evolved into the enthusiast sweet spot. This is where you’ll find some of the most interesting designs, the […] Visit What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000? to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 29, 2026

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement

Moser’s new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date occupies a strange niche which the brand has now explored twice in the span of just a few months: a watch with a movement that has been converted from an automatic version to manually wound for additional functionality and convenience. I’d be surprised if this was an operating principle for Moser for either this release or the Streamliner Pump which debuted at Watches & Wonders, and runs on the HMC 103, which is a manually wound version of their workhorse HMC 500. But it does speak to the brand’s ingenuity when it comes to movement making, and is a reminder that while Moser’s aesthetics and distinct design language often get the most ink, there’s real watchmaking happening as well.  Moser’s Endeavour platform gets the debut of an entirely new movement from Moser, the HMC 730. Based on the architecture of the HMC 902, their automatic chronograph movement made with AGENHOR, the new caliber dispenses with an automatic winding system in favor of dual time and date complications. It does all of this without traditional subdials, a real benefit of the proprietary AGENHOR architecture, which promises a more intuitive readout of elapsed time on a chronograph. On this watch, a red central hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium plated hand tracks elapsed minutes, and the second time zone is found within an interior gray fume dial.  The movement has a number of function first technical advances. The date, for ...

Review – Exploring Chinese Watchmaking, with the Peacock Divine Ultra-Thin Tourbillon (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Oris e Chinese watches as May 29, 2026

Review – Exploring Chinese Watchmaking, with the Peacock Divine Ultra-Thin Tourbillon (Incl. Video)

Chinese watchmaking is often frowned upon at best, but things have changed in the past few years. More often than not, we categorise Chinese watches as entry-level (to remain polite) or counterfeits. No need to say, this is very simplistic. But we have decided to forget our prejudices and to make up our minds by taking […]

Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well May 29, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II

Congrats on conquering another week, even if this one felt particularly expensive with the loss of Sonny Rollins. I know jazz is probably supremely uncool, but man oh man, if you've not had any experience listening to old Sonny stuff, pull up his classic The Bridge and dive on in (and, yes, his time out, alone, practicing sax on the Williamsburg Bridge, lent the album its title). But you're not here for that sort of cultural enrichment. Let's get to the real stuff. Scorekeeping earlier picks, the Hamilton RAF from two weeks back sold for €1,600, which is a cheering result. Last week's Omega Marine Chronometer went for CHF 2,000, the Marvin "Ocean Chief" sold for $1,000, and Rare Bird's Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well. Strays Photo courtesy GALERIE DES VENTES D'ORLEANS. Photo courtesy Craft + Tailored. Photo courtesy Bonhams. Here's a beautiful Zenith Respirator on its original Zenith-signed NSA bracelet for all you square-cased Ballers to start things off. The Dennison ALD Dual Time seemed to scratch an unsuspected itch for a lot of folks, and certainly there are excellent vintage examples of double-dialed watches, but if you happen to find yourself hooked on the idea that more=better regarding dials, boy oh boy is this 18k gold Chopard with its four separate dials for you (with, yes, four separate manual-wind movements, for the fidgeters among us). Girard Perregaux alarms look fantastic for eschewing the typical fourth hand for setting the alarm, and this example ...

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 29, 2026

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...