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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 29, 2026

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...

Watch Strap Review 73 — The Amazing Ming Polymesh Fratello
Ming Polymesh My admiration May 29, 2026

Watch Strap Review 73 — The Amazing Ming Polymesh

My admiration for Ming is well documented on Fratello. Aside from the articles, I have talked a lot about the brand with Mike in many episodes of Fratello On Air. It is no surprise, then, that I’m excited to see all of Ming’s releases. The latest announcement of the Polymesh – Straight reminded me that, […] Visit Watch Strap Review 73 — The Amazing Ming Polymesh to read the full article.

Introducing – The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant C “Cooler Waters” Edition Monochrome
May 29, 2026

Introducing – The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant C “Cooler Waters” Edition

Kollokium is a project-based watchmaking platform founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindis. Created as an alternative to conventional brand-led horology, Kollokium does not want to be labelled as a “brand” and embraces freedom to build timepieces with “no defined artistic direction, no rehashed history, no constraints”. The third evolution of […]

Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical. SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 May 29, 2026

Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical.

Kollokium returns with the Projekt 02 Variant C, hot on the heels of the A and B variants. For this third edition, Kollokium is bringing some colour to the (beach) party, rendering its topographic dial in a striking shade of Mediterranean blue. Initial thoughts Kollokium — an independent micro-brand from Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi — continues to find ways to rethink dial and case construction at an affordable price. As its name suggests, the Variant C is the third edition of its second model — Projekt 02 — which introduced the topographical motif last year.  True to form, Kollokium is once again letting the dial do all the talking and has left the Variant C unsigned, save for the model abbreviation cast into the case band.  Like another independent brand with Manuel Emch at the helm, Kollokium keeps a tight leash on pricing. As a result, the Variant C is priced the same as prior editions, at CHF3,666.66. It’s a limited edition of 299 pieces, which means it will be less common than similarly priced watches like the Tudor Black Bay 54 in ‘Lagoon Blue.’ Of course, cross-shopping a Kollokium against something like the technically advanced Tudor feels a little like missing the forest for the trees. The appeal of the Projekt 02 Variant C lies in its three-dimensional design and unusual textures — on these grounds, there are few alternatives. The Variant C can be pre-ordered starting today for Kollokium subscribers, and will be available to the ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1980s Fratello
May 29, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1980s

Another Friday, another list. After finding alternatives to some of the industry’s biggest icons over the past few months, we decided to switch things up. In the past week, some of the Fratello team members had a nice discussion about forgotten watches from the 1980s, so we thought, “Why not make that into a nice […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1980s to read the full article.

Russell Crowe gushes over Parmigiani, Czapek releases new documentary, TAG Heuer announces new INDYCAR brand partner Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF   @igp366 May 29, 2026

Russell Crowe gushes over Parmigiani, Czapek releases new documentary, TAG Heuer announces new INDYCAR brand partner

Things have simmered down a little bit, at least compared to the recent Royal Pop pandemonium. However, there were some deeper-cut headlines over the last week or so, with some strong weekend viewing to dive into. Russell Crowe is smitten with his Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF   @igp366 #paris #rolandgarros #parmigianifleurier #farrenprice ♬ Éblouie par … Continued

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Fratello
Zenith Introduces May 29, 2026

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II

Zenith marks the 250th anniversary of the United States with the release of the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II. This launch follows the original North American exclusive from several years ago. The new model strengthens the historical link between the Swiss manufacture and American industrial history. Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot famously visited the United States in […] Visit Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II to read the full article.

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer Fratello
Formex Enters May 29, 2026

Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer

As a small brand, Formex has consistently pushed the boundaries of affordable watchmaking. By using new materials, integrating innovations, and simply creating a great, varied collection of watches, the young Swiss brand has stood out in recent years. With the new Aria Manufacture Chronometer, Formex unveils a new milestone for the company. It marks a […] Visit Formex Enters The Arena Of Integrated-Bracelet Watches With Its Aria Manufacture Chronometer to read the full article.

Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Rolex Zerograph inspiration May 28, 2026

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics)

What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...

Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray SJX Watches
May 28, 2026

Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray

Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and  unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...

Introducing – The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Celebrates 250 Years of American Independence Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II May 28, 2026

Introducing – The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Celebrates 250 Years of American Independence

In 2019, Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s high-frequency, integrated automatic chronograph movement was fitted inside three inaugural watches, including the A384, a bold tonneau-shaped case with a two-tone dial that reflected the design language of the period. As the United States gets ready to celebrate […]

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II May 28, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...

Introducing: The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed Hodinkee
Omega s Speedmaster ultimately earning May 28, 2026

Introducing: The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed

After six years in development, Barrelhand is formally launching the Monolith, a watch that represents a new generation of the tool watch genre built explicitly for the space age. Watches have played an important role in the history of human space travel, but few have actually been designed and engineered to meet ISO aerospace standards, NASA material guidance, and EVA/IVA testing protocols consistent with the needs of a crewed deep-space mission. The Monolith represents exactly that, with Barrelhand going to great lengths to meet a standard that tool watches are rarely held to these days. At the dawn of the Apollo program, with five years of learning from the Gemini program under their belt, NASA issued a memorandum outlining the need for a standard flight-crew wrist watch. The story that follows is a widely known part of watch lore, with Omega's Speedmaster ultimately earning the coveted "Flight Qualified" status, and thus a spot on every crewed flight of the Apollo program from 1968 to 1972. The testing protocols developed by NASA put a handful of commercially available watches through a battery of tests that included exposure to extreme temperature, pressure, and shock, and while none would ace the testing, the Speedmaster came out the other end in arguably the best shape. It's important to note that none of the watches selected by NASA's Procurement and Contracts Division were built with these tests in mind. The Speedmaster and the Daytona were both built with automot...

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor Blue” Means May 28, 2026

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54

After the dust had settled from Watches and Wonders 2026, fans and critics agreed that Tudor had a relatively quiet showing. The Monarch, of course, was the big release to celebrate 100 years of Tudor. On top of that, we got a series of updates and new versions of already existing models. While less surprising, […] Visit Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

Review: The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward May 27, 2026

Review: The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue

Four years ago I spent a fortnight with the Archival 1930, and ultimately proclaimed it the closest Fears has come to parting me from my hard-earned money. Since then, two things have happened. Firstly, Fears did earn my business by way of the Alliance 01 collaboration with Christopher Ward. Secondly, the modest lineup of rectangular watches from the brand has grown ever so slightly but remains overshadowed by the flagship Brunswick and sporty Redcliff families, and are perhaps therefore a little underappreciated. With so many iterations based on the Brunswick template, including the hugely popular cocktail trilogy produced in collaboration with Studio Underd0g, I find myself rooting for the Arnos – Fears’ first watch to build on the template of the Archival 1930 which captured my heart. When analyzing the Arnos ($4,500), it feels appropriate to start with the dial. I haven’t sought out common opinion in preparation for going hands on with the watch, but I fully expect the dial to be a polarizing factor. As is the case with any rectangular watch, there’s going to be a lot of space to fill. Space where the hands just can’t reach. That’s true of square dial watches too, but exacerbated further in a rectangle. Some watches fill this space with stretched indices, or an inner minute track matching the same outer rectangular shape. Even the aforementioned Archival 1930 (in two-hander form) lined the indices up vertically to cleverly use the corner spaces. Here, howev...

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Flyback May 27, 2026

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

What We Know H. Moser & Cie. introduced its first flyback chronograph in 2020 with the Streamliner, a cushion-cased sports watch powered by the HMC 902—an automatic movement with central elapsed-seconds and elapsed-minutes hands and no sub-dials. That watch won the Chronograph Watch Prize at the GPHG and gave rise to a full collection. The next step was always the Endeavour case, and today it's here. The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date takes the core architecture of the HMC 902, removes the automatic winding system, and uses the freed space to add a second time zone and date—all without any subdials The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with chronograph pushers at 10 and 2 o'clock and a screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. The dial is a turquoise fumé with a sunburst pattern. The central disc—which carries the second time zone—is in Blackor fumé, also with a sunburst pattern. Around the perimeter, a tachymeter sits on the flange alongside a white minute track that handles both elapsed seconds and minutes for the chronograph. Hands are leaf-shaped and filled with Super-LumiNova, as is the tip of the dual-time arrow. Uniting three complications—a flyback chronograph, a second time zone, and a date display—the watch does away with traditional subdials entirely. Instead, all indications are centralized: a red hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium-plated hand shows elapsed minutes, and the second time zon...

Introducing – The New Konstantin Chaykin Matroskin the Cat Wristmon Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Matroskin May 27, 2026

Introducing – The New Konstantin Chaykin Matroskin the Cat Wristmon

It’s refreshing to come across a serious master watchmaker who knows how to have fun. Konstantin Chaykin, the Russian indie watchmaker, knows how to inject humour into his creations, including the anthropomorphic face of his smiling ThinKing, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with a profile of just 1.65mm. His popular menagerie of Wristmons (wrist monsters) […]

Introducing: The Handmade-In-Scandinavia Von Doren 1814 Nordic Made Fratello
May 27, 2026

Introducing: The Handmade-In-Scandinavia Von Doren 1814 Nordic Made

Øyvind VonDoren Asbjørnsen knows how to tell a story. The Norwegian studied film production at London Film School in the late 1980s before beginning his career in television. He then served as executive producer and cinematographer on the feature documentary Magnus about Norwegian chess champion Magnus Carlsen, which premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival in […] Visit Introducing: The Handmade-In-Scandinavia Von Doren 1814 Nordic Made to read the full article.

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches Fratello
May 27, 2026

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches

It is easy to get lost in the intricacies of extremely complicated watches when exploring the creations of our beloved Haute Horlogers. Sometimes, though, you just want that level of quality and refinement applied to simpler things. Maybe you have a taste for uncomplicated base models, but you appreciate the rarity and craft of Haute […] Visit Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: The Rolex Daytona Enamel Dial Ref. 126502 is More Than Meets the Eye SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Enamel Dial Ref May 27, 2026

Hands On: The Rolex Daytona Enamel Dial Ref. 126502 is More Than Meets the Eye

Rolex surprised in a big way with the Cosmograph Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 126502. Despite being an “off-catalogue” model, the new Daytona was launched publicly, perhaps to emphasise its unusual nature. To start with, it features a grand feu enamel dial – yes, fired vitreous enamel – inside a bi-metal case of mostly steel, with a touch of platinum, plus a new ceramic (or cermet) bezel. It also has a display back and a steep price tag rivalling that of an all-gold Daytona. While last year’s Land-Dweller and its cal. 7135 was chock-full of patents that Rolex explicitly explained, the Daytona ref. 126502 is more typical Rolex in possessing incremental technical innovation that is left unspecified; it probably incorporates multiple patents that Rolex will not elaborate on. The traditional nature of the dial, the materials and production techniques, and even the display back, hint at future developments at the leading champion of industrial quality perfection. The dial is a four-part affair in white grand feu enamel, while the bezel insert in cermet Initial thoughts Let’s start with the obvious: do I like the new Daytona? Yes. Do I think the dial is actually and technically enamel? Yes. Do I think it’s too expensive? No. While it seems pricey on its face, Rolex pricing is practically always reasonable. I believe the seemingly high price here is justified by something in the watch that Rolex hasn’t explicitly divulged. Price aside, it takes a bit of exami...

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object What May 26, 2026

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object

What We Know For the last ten years, Louis Vuitton has worked with UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund, to support humanitarian and developmental aid for children worldwide. To mark the tenth anniversary of the partnership, the house is releasing a one-of-a-kind time object—a soccer ball reimagined as a clock—to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby's from June 9 to 18, with the hammer price going directly to UNICEF. The piece brings together La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss movement maker L'Épée 1839, and the house's trunkmaking heritage, all in the shape of a soccer ball, timed perfectly ahead of this year's World Cup. With Louis Vuitton's F1 partnership now in its second year, the brand has been planting its flag deeper in the world of sport. Having a soccer ball serve as the vessel for this milestone feels like a natural extension of that direction, and there's something fitting about the spherical choice of form to commemorate this occasion. At the center of the piece, time is told through a sculpted golden steel dome that forms the upper half of the clock. Two rotating cylinders handle the work: one tracks the hours, the other the minutes. The minute track is engraved with Louis Vuitton's Monogram motif and flowers, and the top of the cylinder carries the "Louis Vuitton Paris" signature. Moving outward, the hour and minute apertures are rimmed with diamonds—144 white for the hours, 120 black for the minutes, totaling 1.03 carats. Inside, L'...

Hands-On: The Petermann-Bédat 1826 Limited Edition for The Hour Glass Japan — Now in a Smaller Size Hodinkee
Petermann Bédat May 26, 2026

Hands-On: The Petermann-Bédat 1826 Limited Edition for The Hour Glass Japan — Now in a Smaller Size

Just last week, I visited the workshop of Petermann-Bédat in Renes. I had a morning to kill on the way to Lausanne for a project, and instead of sleeping off some jetlag, I decided to do something productive. And, actually, something that makes me happy. Spending time with Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat is always a pleasure. I put a lot of stock in the personalities of independent watchmakers, and I think it's fair to consider them artists you want to support, not just for the art but also for how you connect with them. Far from a buyer, I still seem to operate on a similar wavelength to the two. But the added bonus is that I finally got to see their new reference 1826, which was launched for The Hour Glass in Japan, and boy, was it a stunner.  No, the name isn't a typo. While the larger (and relatively recently released) ref. 1825 from 2025 featured a 38mm case; the watchmakers have been able to downsize the two new versions to 36mm, made in white and rose gold. Actually, they made the original caliber with a 36mm case in mind, but, to paraphrase, they didn't feel the market was ready. Turns out that it was maybe not the best for the global stage, but perfect for one market in particular. The difference is pretty dramatic in person. But so is this recent generation of watches in general. Petermann-Bédat's business arch has been a yo-yo from a simple-looking but technically complex deadbeat watch (shown above) that launched the brand, then an incredibly complex spli...

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition May 26, 2026

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition

What We Know The Annual Editions from German brand Glashütte Original are quite self-explanatory from their name. Each year, Glashütte Original adorns one of its vintage-inspired designs from the Sixties collection with a new colorway. There's no hard-and-fast rule about what colors make an appearance—past dials have ranged from subtle to loud, muted to saturated, and smooth to textured. This year's Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition goes for maximum visual impact with a very unconventional purple dial, produced in-house at their dialmaking facility in Glashütte. This 2026 edition opts for the distinctive textured dial that has accompanied a few of the past Sixties models, produced through a stamping process for the bronze dial base. After a galvanic coating process that adds a layer of gold to the base dial, purple lacquer is hand-applied and then fired at high temperatures to set the color.  A unique design detail of the dial is the lack of applied hour indices. Rather, the now purple lacquer dial is hand-engraved to reveal strips of the bronze base, acting as those markers and a warm contrast to the rest of the dial. Once this step is completed, the entire dial gets a protective clear lacquer coating, and the dial text is printed on. Gold-plated hands are paired to complement the tone of the bronze hour indices. And of course, any Sixties Edition from Glashütte Original means some heavily stylized numerals, seen here at twelve and six o'clock. As this year's Annu...

Awake Introduces the Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection Worn & Wound
May 26, 2026

Awake Introduces the Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection

The evolution of Awake has been fascinating to observe over the last few years. From high concept blockchain and space inspired sports watches, the brand took a left turn into traditional craft techniques, and is now working to refine those ideas further in their latest collection. The new Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection combines the Son Mai lacquer techniques the brand has employed in previous collections with evocative, hand-applied guilloche work. These new watches also have updates to the case and dial that we imagine will carry through to further Awake releases in the pipeline.  I had a chance to see these watches in person at Chronopolis in Geneva earlier this year, and then again at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, and each time I came away very impressed with the dial work, which is clearly the chief selling point here. To summarize, these dials use the same “Son Mai” lacquer technique, perfected by artisans in Vietnam, that we saw the brand debut in 2024. The resulting bold, vibrant colors really carry these watches and give a very old practice a lot of modern charm. For the new collection, Awake has added guilloche to the mix. Before the lacquer finish is applied, each dial has a meticulously applied guilloche pattern engraved into the dial by traditional rose and straight line engines by craftspeople in Italy. When the lacquer finish is added later, it accentuates the guilloche in a dramatic way, highlighting the depth of the engraving and the ri...