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Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Sep 10, 2025

Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218

Panerai was first introduced to the public on September 10th, 1993. Until that time, the brand only made watches for military personnel. This is easy to forget, as Panerai quickly became a public fixture in the watch universe. This year, on the anniversary of its 1993 debut, Panerai unveils The Depths of Time at its […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 to read the full article.

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Upcycles Leather Sep 10, 2025

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage

Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO Worn & Wound
Hublot who basically invented Sep 9, 2025

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO

There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...

Cheapest Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 9, 2025

Cheapest Patek Philippe Watches

To be honest, most people in the know would agree that “cheapest” and “Patek Philippe” don’t really even belong in the same sentence together. That said, for many serious watch collectors, even those just starting out, one’s first Patek Philippe is both a Holy Grail and a milestone purchase to be carefully, thoughtfully planned out and saved for. And most of those aficionados are still going to be entering the brand’s world at the ground floor rather than the penthouse. So what are these “entry level” Patek Philippe watches, i.e., the models actually priced with a first-time buyer in mind? First off, we should establish why Patek Philippe watches are so coveted in the first place by laying out a bit of history. Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philipp...

Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2025

Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple

I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind.  Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability.  With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal.  Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...

First Look – The Monochromatic Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey Monochrome
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Sep 9, 2025

First Look – The Monochromatic Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey

With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has undergone a sea change, and many feared that its rugged tool watches would be transformed beyond recognition. However, earlier this year, fans were pleased to discover the new Altitude MB Meteor, an incredibly resilient pilot’s watch based on the former MB1. Part of the refreshed Altitude […]

Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Lemania-ba Sep 9, 2025

Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph

Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...

Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions Fratello
Sep 9, 2025

Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions

When my eyes first caught a glimpse of the Beda’a Angles in the late summer of last year, I was immediately intrigued. The watch features a classic case shape but doesn’t feel retro. Instead, it feels like a next step in the development of modern dress watches. Notably, though, the inaugural Angles collection was a […] Visit Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions to read the full article.

Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Since Sep 8, 2025

Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic

Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]

Dennison Doubles Down on Their Stylish Stone Dials (Real Shots) Worn & Wound
Sep 8, 2025

Dennison Doubles Down on Their Stylish Stone Dials (Real Shots)

Minimal, quartz, stone dial dress watches with “TV-cases” would have been a hard sell with watch enthusiasts just a few years ago, but you wouldn’t know it from Dennison’s rapid rise in popularity. The historic British brand, twice revived, has been one-to-watch in the last year, having launched the ALD line of watches fitting the description mentioned above just last October (2024) to great success. Perfectly timed for the seemingly capricious swings of the enthusiast zeitgeist, the combination of a 60s/70s shaped case, clean, expansive stone dials, effortless style, and approachable price point made them an easy sell for those who wanted to dabble with an aesthetic that was previously the domain of luxury jewelry watch brands. Less than a year since launch, Dennison is back and, quite literally, doubling down on their inaugural line’s success with the ALD Dual Time. An extension of the first line, as the name suggests, the Dual Times can tell the time in more than one location, but do so in a decidedly direct and retro method. They have two movements. Positioned on either side of the dial, with independent crowns on either side of the case, these twin quartz tickers (though it should be noted there are no seconds hands) allow for differences down to the minute. Convenient for the rare 15 or 30-minute timezone change, or perhaps tracking a friend who is always 10 minutes late, this layout is as easy to read as it is visually dynamic. The close proximity of the t...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” Sep 8, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer

Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set Limited Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Sep 7, 2025

Introducing – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set Limited Edition

While the name Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is associated with some of the most successful and enduring watch designs of the 20th century, the designer also expressed his creativity through his own brand, Gerald Charles. Following the designer’s death, the Gerald Charles brand was revived by Federico Zivani. Inspired by an idiosyncratic case designed by Gérald […]

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Peter McKinnon’s EDC, A Revived Prelude, and New Watches from Citizen and Seiko Worn & Wound
Citizen Sep 6, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Peter McKinnon’s EDC, A Revived Prelude, and New Watches from Citizen and Seiko

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.   An EDC update from Peter McKinnon When it comes to blending Every Day Carry, photography, and story telling, few people manage to do it like Peter McKinnon does.  Over the years, Peter has grown his youtube channel to almost 6 million subscribers, while pulling back the curtain on his creative process and offering useful tips and tricks along the way. In his most recent video, Peter goes through his EDC as we head into fall. One of the most interesting items Peter talks about is his watch, a Marathon GSAR (Ref. WW194006SS-0130). Long time fans of the channel will likely have heard Peter mention watches before, but this is one of the first times that we’ve seen Peter dive into the specs and speak about how and why a certain watch made its way onto his wrist.  Check out the video above for his full reasoning! The New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 When the Citizen Tsuyosa debuted in 2023, Zach Kazan was quick to state that “Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option.” Now, almost two years later, the Tsuyosa line has rapidly grown to include numerous colorways, two case sizes, ...

First Look – The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 Monochrome
Yema Sep 5, 2025

First Look – The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31

Yema continues to expand its Millésime Editions with yet another statement piece. The new Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 takes the brand’s most iconic model, the Superman diver introduced in 1963, and reimagines it as a professional-grade tool watch equipped with a manufacture movement with a tourbillon regulator. Usually reserved for rather fragile dress watches, the […]

SJX Podcast: Million Dollar Showdown – Steel Unicorns SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 1518 Sep 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: Million Dollar Showdown – Steel Unicorns

On the ninth episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore sit down to discuss recent watch launches during Geneva Watch Days, highlighting standout pieces like the hand-made Ferdinand Berthoud (the first of which will be sold at auction) and the Berneron annual calendar, and also reflecting on the flavours of the day like artisanal finishing and user-friendly calendar watches. Also on the docket, the record-setting Patek Philippe 1518 in steel returns to auction while a second is up for private sale, and reflecting on our reassuring recent encounter with Breguet’s new chief executive. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem

Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention.  The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us.  The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control Monochrome
Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control

In 2014, Oris unveiled the ProPilot Altimeter, a unique wristwatch that combined an automatic Swiss-made calibre with a mechanical altimeter. Following an update in 2023, that singular idea is revisited this year in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, bringing fresh design and high-tech case construction to the ProPilot Altimeter. The result is the Oris x […]

Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy

Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen […]

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days 2025, Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne introduces two new variations of existing models. We get new variations of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the 1815 Tourbillon, both made in very small numbers, and both adding subtle but significant updates. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds comes in a pink-gold dial […] Visit New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon to read the full article.

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up Sep 4, 2025

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter

Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has Sep 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours

Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market.  Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...