Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 7 Skeleton
Ba111od adds to their Chapter 7, with a new reference with a skeleton movement and dial. Commentary with pricing information.
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Deployant
Ba111od adds to their Chapter 7, with a new reference with a skeleton movement and dial. Commentary with pricing information.
Time+Tide
A trip I cannot believe it took nearly six years in my watch media career to make, I have just returned to NYC from Lancaster, PA: the birthplace of Hamilton watches. With 2026 being the 250th anniversary of the U.S., it was clear to the Hamilton team that it needed to do something special for … Continued
SJX Watches
The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...
Fratello
Bremont is a brand that almost literally fell from the sky, and that’s probably why its Altitude collection of pilot’s watches is the most important one. So when there’s an all-new addition to the Altitude lineup, it’s worth investigating. The new watch doesn’t disappoint: the Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones proudly shows its Martin-Baker […] Visit Introducing: The New Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones, Part Of The Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Our most controversial military conflict gave rise to wristwatches that stood the text of time.More
Monochrome
Pilot watches have always occupied a special place in watchmaking and in our hearts. Large crowns, legible dials, chronographs, GMT indications, and slide-rule bezels all emerged from real-life needs. Yet despite many decades of looking up to aviation for clues, very few modern pilot watches can actually assist pilots in flight procedures. Most are stylistic […]
Hodinkee
Minerva brings its back-catalog designs to the modern age with Unveiled Crownless and Unveiled Secret releases
Worn & Wound
As I write this article in late May 2026, Bond fans want nothing more than news on the next film in the James Bond franchise. We know it’s going to be directed by Denis Villeneuve, but little else has been announced or decided upon. Namely, we don’t know who is going to play 007 as Daniel Craig has apparently given up his license to kill. So on the spectrum of “new Bond stuff” that fans might be interested in, I’m not sure how many waves the release of a 44mm Omega Chronograph with ties to a new Bond videogame is really going to make, but here we are. The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light is being pitched as a real life version of the watch the James Bond character uses in the upcoming First Light videogame, which is to be released across multiple platforms next week. First Light is a reimagining of the James Bond origin story, and follows a young Bond through the early days of his career with MI6. The watch in the game is, according to Omega, a tool that appears across several missions, and, in the game, is capable of disturbing electronic equipment and emitting a laser from its strap. Alas, the real thing doesn’t have complications nearly this unique. It’s modeled visually off of the watch that appears in the game, which incorporates subdials that the player accesses to, I guess, fire lasers from the strap, or something of that nature. So naturally a chronograph was the opportune choice for a watch tie in, and this represents the first ti...
Hodinkee
What We Know It's time to put aside the debate of big watches versus small watches. I think we can at least agree that options are a good thing, so everyone can get what they want. With that in mind, Serica has released three new, smaller Field Chronometer watches measuring only 35mm by 9.6mm thick with a COSC-certified automatic movement and three new enamel dials. These three new watches, with stainless steel cases, play off the design language of the ref. 6190 with a few tweaks. There's the slightly larger, fixed bezel with pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. They have a double-domed anti-reflective sapphire that should somewhat magnify the smaller dial. The two-tone cream-and-black "Tuxedo" dial is similar to the ref. 6190 TXD, with hand-applied numerals. The other two, the "Minute Critical" dials in black or olive green, aren't that far from the ref. 6190 "Denali" that is already on offer in a larger size, with added 5-minute Arabic numerals. All three have Super-LumiNova C3 lume. Inside the case is the SoProd M100 movement, which is COSC-certified for accuracy, making it a Field Chronometer in both name and function. The caliber runs at 4Hz, is self-winding, and has a 42-hour power reserve. According to Serica, it also has a decorated plate with Côtes de Genève, and while there are no photos of the caseback, I would assume it is still a closed caseback like its big sibling. Then there's the final major update: the watch comes with a redesigned Bonklip bracelet, fea...
Worn & Wound
The 2026 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was easily our largest event in California yet! It was punctuated by amazing brands, cool watches, and numerous activities. However, it was the panels that helped maintain that classic Windup vibe and we had four great ones over the course of the event. Precision Meets Passion: Frederique Constant and the Padel Phenomenon Padel is no longer just a trend—it’s a global commercial powerhouse on track to become a $6 billion industry by 2028. Join Kaitlin Derkach (Marketing Director, Frederique Constant) and Diane Gotua (CCO, Pro Padel League) as they discuss the “lifestyle-first” strategy driving padel’s explosive 50% year-over-year growth in the U.S. and why Frederique Constant is betting on this high-energy, enthusiast-friendly sport. EDC Expo Panel: Building a Quiver vs. Collection Many collectors don’t think in rigid frameworks—they follow curiosity and passion wherever it leads. Others work within self-imposed rules around style, function, or brand. This panel brings together Jim Wirth (Founder/CEO at GiantMouse Knives), Christian Freissler (Co-Founder at Evolve Agency and Creative Director at Shinzo Tamura), and Harrison McCrindle (Head of Government Operations at Marathon Watch Company) for a candid conversation about the art, science, and emotion of collecting across knives, sunglasses, watches, and everyday carry. Together, they’ll explore different philosophies of gear collecting, from logical progressions t...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We reviewed both the Seiko Samurai and Seiko Turtle to compare comfort, design, value, and long-term appeal between these two affordable dive watches.
Fratello
In the original James Bond books by Ian Fleming, the secret agent wore the same watch as the author himself, a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016. In the James Bond movies, however, he wore a variety of watches from different brands. Interestingly enough, it was never an Explorer. And as you know, Bond has worn Omega […] Visit James Bond And His Omega Seamaster Watches — An Overview to read the full article.
Fratello
Omega continues its long-running partnership with James Bond with the new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light. This time, however, the inspiration does not come from the silver screen. Instead, the watch debuts alongside the upcoming 007 First Light video game from IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios. The watch appears in the game […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light to read the full article.
Monochrome
What is Ressence if not one of the most recognisable identities in independent watchmaking? From the crownless Type 3 (check out the recent Type 3 Marc Newson) to the oil-filled Type 5, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens has consistently challenged the conventional relationship between display, ergonomics and mechanical watchmaking, leading to the introduction of the Type […]
Citizen reinforces their commitment to yacht racing with a new Promaster Wave Tracker. Release details with pricing and commentary.
Hodinkee
What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece. Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A closer look at the best Citizen watch releases of 2026 so far, including the Tsuyosa Shore, Series 8, Eco-Drive Photon, and more.
Hodinkee
If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...
Deployant
Longines pays homage to the brand's celebrated 1959 diving watch with a new release of the Legend Diver 59. With Longines Diver historical references.
Fratello
We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Taking place right next door to Watches & Wonders, Time to Watches is an annual fair dedicated to independent watchmaking. Among the exhibitors this year was Stéphane von Gunten, the watchmaker behind the Haute-Rive brand. Arguably the most technically impressive watch on display was the Honoris Meccanica, the most mechanical looking of Haute-Rive’s Honoris line. The timepiece houses a three meter-long mainspring which allows it to achieve a power reserve of 41 days — more specifically 1,000 hours. Unlike some other watches with ultra-long power reserves, the Honoris Meccanica remains a properly sized and wearable timepiece that doesn’t feel like a wrist-worn experiment. Initial thoughts Stéphane von Gunten is part of a new generation of independent watchmakers with a strong engineering background, rather than a career spent doing restoration work. Before launching Haute-Rive, Mr von Gunten worked as a Research and Innovation Director at the Sowind group, which owns Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin. His most notable work happened while at Ulysse Nardin, where Mr von Gunten filed a number of important patents, ranging from the oval-shaped hairspring still used by Ulysse Nardin today to constant force escapements and compliant flexure oscillators. As fate would have it, one of Mr von Gunten’s ancestors is Irénée Aubry, the watchmaker behind the “Hebdomas” eight-day pocket watch of 1888. Commercialised under many names, the movement only required winding...
Fratello
We were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet. Jean-Marie passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. I wanted to share a few personal words about Jean-Marie because he was someone I came to know not only through watches but […] Visit Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...
Monochrome
Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a man capable of creating superb watches and movements, Kurono Tokyo aims to apply his design language to a more accessible price range. While the entire production of the brand is limited and relatively difficult to obtain, the “special projects” collection adds a sense of exclusivity through the […]
Deployant
It is with great sadness that we join the Schaller family and staff of Louis Moinet to mourn the loss of Jean-Marie Schaller.
Worn & Wound
As the saying goes, variety is the spice of life, and with Breitling’s release of a staggering 22 new models to its Chronomat lineup, it just might be true. The model is pretty iconic, starting as a pilot’s watch for military forces and later becoming a cultural phenomenon, with one of its claims to fame being its appearance on Jerry’s wrist across Seinfeld. The latest chapter of the collection covers the Chronomat B01 42, Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and Chronomat Automatic 36, giving Breitling’s signature sport watch a full refresh across size, movement, and material options. The Chronomat B01 42 remains the main chronograph in the revamp, with a few updates aimed at making the watch look (and feel) a little better on the wrist. For starters, the case thickness has been slimmed from 15.1mm to 13.77mm, the crown guard has been reduced, and Breitling has removed the 1/100 scale from the rehaut for a cleaner dial. All of these updates may seem a bit inconsequential, but when brought together, they add up to an overall sleeker profile that’s meant to “enhance its simplicity,” as noted by Breitling’s Head of Design, Pablo Widmer. The B01 42 is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve. In stainless steel, it comes with the choice of a white, blue, or green dial, each with black chronograph counters. The range extends with several additional variations, including a two-tone steel and ...
Fratello
Some might say the Navitimer is the “most Breitling” watch out there. I tend to disagree. If you ask me, the Breitling that says “Breitling” the loudest and clearest is the Chronomat. The redesigned Breitling Chronomat keeps its connection to the model developed in the early 1980s in collaboration with the Italian Air Force’s Frecce […] Visit The Breitling Of Breitlings Gets An Update: Introducing The Redesigned Chronomat to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36. The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...
Fratello
At Watches and Wonders, we see many watches, of course. It’s actually not the best place to see watches, though. During the “touch & try” sessions, watches are passed around quickly as everyone tries to take as many pictures as possible. Cartier is notoriously one of the most watch-heavy sessions, as the brand usually presents […] Visit Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Longines is carrying momentum into the summer after the well-received launch of the refreshed Hydroconquest line. The brand hopes to continue that winning streak with a nipped and tucked 42 mm Legend Diver 59. As the name suggests, the LLD 59 references the 42 mm ref. 7042 launched in 1959, and offers a different take on the dive watch that gives it a distinct character compared to many Submariner-inspired peers. Initial thoughts The original LLD of 2007 was a pioneer of the now-common practice of reissuing historical models. While faux patina and period-correct details seem to be everywhere today, they seemed novel back then. Many brands followed — quickly enough to suggest concurrent development — but the launch of the LLD helped usher in a design trend that still dominates the industry. The LLD 59 offers a straightforward value proposition — a high-fidelity historical design, an advanced proprietary calibre, and an affordable price of US$4,100. The ‘Super Compressor’-style case — characterised by its dual crowns and internal rotating bezel — offers an alternative perspective on the dive watch compared to category mainstays like the Tudor Black Bay. For collectors and enthusiasts troubled by the notion that a Black Bay might been perceived as a ‘poor man’s Submariner’, the LLD is a similarly priced and similarly equipped vintage-inspired diver with an entirely different look. While Tudor might be the most obvious point of reference, the LLD 59 will li...
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