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Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 19, 2020

Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription

A French watchmaker who is just 23 years old, Rémy Cools has just revealed the finished prototype of his debut watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Mr Cools’ creation is a large watch with no visible crown, giving it a contemporary silhouette, but the look is still heavily classical in style, with the movement and dial strongly influenced by 19th century watchmaking, especially the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jacques Frédéric Houriet according to Mr Cools. Initial thoughts I met Mr Cools at Baselworld 2019 and got to examine the unfinished prototype. It was complete and working, but had not yet been decorated. The prototype was an extremely striking watch, with a strong pocket watch aesthetic but still unique. While clearly modelled on the works of Breguet, it manages to avoid looking like a Breguet. Now that the watch is finished, it is no doubt more impressive; Mr Cools’ photos of the movement and its parts reveal an impressively high level of decoration. Two things go against the watch. One is the pair of crowns on the case back. They are easy enough to use, but feel unnecessarily complicated. The crowns, however, are probably something you get used to and forget about afterwards. The second drawback is the massive height of the watch, which is only 40 mm wide. It stands 15 mm high – including 7 mm of domed sapphire crystal – which gives it a really tall profile. And the thickness is accentuated by the relatively small diameter. That said, the height is ...

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors Time+Tide
Raketa May 20, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors

“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and horological designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is the ultimate quirky flex to impress collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Apr 24, 2020

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42

Now 15 years old, the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar was almost always a 44.2 mm watch powered by a 7-day automatic movement (though IWC installed the same movement in the smaller, 42.3 mm ref. 5022 for several years). For Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC debuts the all-new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 that’s simpler and far more affordable. Instead of the long-standing 7-day calibre, the Perpetual Calendar 42 is powered by a simpler but nevertheless robust movement with a more conventional 60-hour power reserve. The new calibre is also thinner, resulting in a case just 13.8 mm high, versus 14. 9 mm before. And as the model name implies, the Perpetual Calendar 42 has a 42.4 mm case, which is available in pink gold, or stainless steel – a first for the regular collection. Until now, with the exception of a 2014 limited edition, IWC has only ever offered the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar with a gold or platinum case. All of that means making the perpetual calendar is significantly more affordable – the steel version costs half of the 7-day model in 18k gold. An unusual perpetual While the dial retains the traditional perpetual calendar configuration with three sub-dials for the calendar – making it cleaner and more legible the the 7-day version – it also includes a central seconds hand, which is extremely uncommon on a perpetual calendar watch. Functionally, the perpetual calendar is similar but simplified as compared to the 7-day iteration. As with all IWC...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What, there’ve been some watches released? I beg your pardon? Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What, there’ve been some watches released? I beg your pardon?

Miracle of miracles, it’s a Friday Wind Down that is not another miserable news bulletin about a global pandemic that is coming for our lives and our toilet paper! This week, a brace of new watches were released. And what a sweet thing that is. Normality! The good news continues. We’ve just finished production on … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What, there’ve been some watches released? I beg your pardon? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wound (with Live Photos) SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 19, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wound (with Live Photos)

Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...

Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5172G chronograph or Mar 16, 2020

Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold

Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Featuring the best Insta comment thread of 2020, Post Malone’s watch collection and we go Into The Wild Time+Tide
Mar 5, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Featuring the best Insta comment thread of 2020, Post Malone’s watch collection and we go Into The Wild

Welcome back to the Friday Wind Down, website edition! We don’t know how long (a couple of years perhaps?) we’ve kept the Wind Down exclusively for subscribers, delivered hot to their inbox on Friday afternoon. But we’ve received enough requests for the old days, when it was delivered just as hot, just as heavy, via … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Featuring the best Insta comment thread of 2020, Post Malone’s watch collection and we go Into The Wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Avantist La Majesté Tourbillon SJX Watches
Feb 12, 2020

Hands-On: Avantist La Majesté Tourbillon

Now four years old, Avantist was founded by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and probably most famous for its tennis watches that incorporate string taken from the racquet used by Martina Navratilova when she won Wimbledon 1987. The brand has since diversified into other memorabilia timepieces, including one that contains strings from one of John Mayer’s guitars and another featuring threads from the national flag flown on the day of the Sultan of Brunei’s coronation. But Avantist’s most notable timepieces are the series of skeleton tourbillon watches that are entirely customisable, the La Majesté Tourbillon. These custom watches have so far been created for notable personalities, including sportsmen and heads of state; the first example – the model name translates as “His Majesty” – was conceived for the Sultan of Brunei. Powered by a hand-wound, skeleton movement from complications specialist Concepto, the La Majeste is customisable in its entirety, from the case and movement material to the design of the barrel ratchet wheel. Though the La Majeste is yet another watch in the sporty-skeleton-tourbillon genre, it manages to be a different take on a familiar look. At the same time, it combines an interesting movement with a surprisingly light and tactile feel in the hand. Thoughtfully detailed From design to production, the La Majeste Tourbillon is the work of leading names in Swiss watchmaking, most notably with Concepto supplying the movement. Best kno...

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel SJX Watches
Casio Feb 7, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel

While the quintessential G-Shock is arguably the original, oblong DW-5000 in black plastic, the oversized DW-6900 is almost as famous. Introduced in 1995, its bulbous case was strikingly large and the watch became a fashion accessory of sorts over the next two decades, especially with the collaborations done with streetwear labels like Mastermind and celebrities like rapper Eminem. So as the DW-6900 reaches its 25th year, Casio is marking the anniversary with a special edition: the G-Shock GM-6900 with metal bezel. Identical in shape and function to the original, the GM-6900 is distinguished by its stamped steel bezel, essentially a metal outer case goes over the inner resin case. The bezel is formed into shape via multiple stamping processes, each further refining the form and curve of the bezel. It’s available in a natural steel finish, black-coating with a glossy finish and red accents, or polished gold plating. In terms of tech, the GM-6900 is basic. The electronic module inside is battery operated and has all of the usual functions of a G-Shock, including stopwatch, countdown timer, and multiple time zones. It is delivered on a black resin strap with a buckle finished to match the steel bezel. The original DW-6900 Key facts and price G-Shock GM-6900 G-Shock GM-6900B (black bezel) G-Shock GM-6900G (gold bezel) Diameter: 49.7 mm Height: 18.6 mm Material: Resin with steel bezel Water resistance: 200 m Movement: Model 3230 Functions: Digital, multifunction Windi...

Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review Time+Tide
Dec 24, 2019

Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review

I write on Christmas morning, in Melbourne, Australia from the kitchen table of my parents’ house. The children are watching the Stick Man Christmas Special on TV. The air outside is hazy and thick with bushfire smoke, slowly filtering down from the state above Victoria, New South Wales. There are currently 343 bushfires burning out … ContinuedThe post Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe Quill & Pad
Dec 21, 2019

The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe

“Nice shoes you’ve got there!” Miguel Seabra was walking down Church Road with Maurice de Mauriac founder Daniel Dreifuss and his youngest son Leo when they heard someone behind them praise Daniel’s Stan Smith Adidas footwear. They turned around to find it was Stan Smith himself, the American tennis champion from the 1970s after whom the famous sneakers are named. And that’s how the plans for the new Stan Smith Signature Watch all started!

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Dec 14, 2019

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Horological Brothers Grönefeld: Video Interview With Some Surprising (And Revealing) Questions And Answers Quill & Pad
Grönefeld Dec 11, 2019

The Horological Brothers Grönefeld: Video Interview With Some Surprising (And Revealing) Questions And Answers

Bart and Tim Grönefeld have been so successful that they cannot keep watches in stock, and people who order one of their models right now might have to wait at least a year. However, Martin Green didn't visit them to buy a watch, but rather to talk with the Dutch brothers about watchmaking and other perhaps more personal subjects. Please enjoy this somewhat different video!

Auction Watch: Breguet Skeleton 30-Day, Constant Force Clock by Philippe René Jaccard SJX Watches
Breguet Skeleton 30-Day Constant Force Dec 7, 2019

Auction Watch: Breguet Skeleton 30-Day, Constant Force Clock by Philippe René Jaccard

One of the most intriguing timepieces being offered in the final run of watch auctions for 2019 is not a wristwatch, but an incredibly rare table clock made by Breguet in 1934 that’s going under the hammer at Christie’s. It hardly looks like a typical Breguet – having no engine-turning or gilding or blued steel hands – but is remarkably striking, with a skeletonised, architectural movement that is modern-looking despite being 85 years old. Abraham-Louis Breguet is rightly regarded as one of the most important watchmakers in history, whose inventions range from the natural escapement to the tourbillon, while being commercially savvy enough to become a leading watchmaker to the Ottoman Empire. But his descendants ventured into other businesses by the mid 19th century, most notably aviation, so the watchmaking operation was sold by Louis-Clément Breguet, grandson of Abraham-Louis, in 1870 to English watchmaker Edward Brown. The Browns kept the workshop in Paris, though it moved several times over the decades. During the century that the Brown family ran Breguet – Brown’s grandson George sold the company to French jeweller Chaumet in 1969 – the firm mostly retained the signature Breguet style and produced a large variety of timepieces, but in tiny quantities, often relying on external specialists for movements and components. Timepiece no. 3142 This clock is one such timepiece from the period. A unique piece according to the accompanying Breguet museum archive...

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage SJX Watches
Casio Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage

Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet. The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total. (Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.) Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating. G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A Key facts and price G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC Water resistance: 200m Movement: Electronic Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity Winding: Solar-powered Power reserve: 22 months Strap: Titanium bracelet Limited edit...

IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  Oct 4, 2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 

The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated.  I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 Oct 1, 2019

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407

The Snowflake looms large in the minds (and on the wrists) of Grand Seiko fans - the 10-year-old titanium watch is an undisputed champion, and deservedly so. But now there’s a phalanx of other Snowflakes in the family – the dial comes with gold highlights and even in dressier cases. But one Snowflake that stands … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s “Snowflake blue” SBGA407 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin s Creative Director Christian Sep 30, 2019

Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design

Editor’s note: This interview is an old one, from SIHH 2015, and the Harmony is a watch that isn’t a massive focus for Vacheron Constantin right now, but the brand’s Creative Director, Mr Christian Selmoni, is one of the most articulate and interesting creative minds in the watch business, and definitely worth a read, especially … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin’s Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 18, 2019

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop

A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...

Time+Tide is the only place in Australia you can buy Doxa, and we couldn’t be happier about it Time+Tide
Doxa Sep 15, 2019

Time+Tide is the only place in Australia you can buy Doxa, and we couldn’t be happier about it

As of 18:00 today, the Time+Tide Shop is the only place in Australia and New Zealand that you can buy Doxa watches. It will come as news to very few of you that this is one heck of a legendary brand. First helium valve on a general public diver’s watch – legendary. Jacques Cousteau – … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide is the only place in Australia you can buy Doxa, and we couldn’t be happier about it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Sep 15, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark

Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand’s All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks’ illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris Time+Tide
Oris Chronoris Editor’s note Aug 21, 2019

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris

Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.