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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 Mar 20, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 mm

Audemars Piguet expands its stone‑dial lineup with the new Royal Oak Self-Winding 37 mm and 41 mm in yellow‑gold featuring malachite dials, continuing the brand’s cautious re-exploration of trendy stone dials. Initial thoughts Last month Bad Bunny, the most-streamed musician in the western hemisphere, took the field for the Super Bowl LX halftime show wearing this yellow gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm. A design as recognisable as any in watchmaking, worn on the wrist of the “King of Latin Trap” in front of over a hundred million viewers - a significant marketing coup for Audemars Piguet. It was also an implicit endorsement from Bad Bunny’s stylist Storm Pablo, who procured the watch within days of its announcement. Bad Bunny during the Apple Music Super Bowl LX halftime show. Image – Apple Pricing remains surprisingly reasonable, with the 37 mm pegged to the same price as the turquoise-dialled sibling from a few years ago, while the 41 mm model is priced just 4% higher than a regular production Royal Oak in pink gold. That’s a large step up in absolute terms, but that comes with the (price) territory. It is important to point out that despite the premiums brands often attach to stone dials, most are not particularly expensive to make. When it comes to malachite, the raw material cost is negligible, with African mines in and around the Copperbelt producing gemstone-quality malachite by the literal ton. Audemars Piguet made the right choice by avoiding t...

Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Chimes Mar 12, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is starting the year with an ambitious new calibre inside the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, the in-house GP9530. Also equipped with a tourbillon, the symmetrical, skeleton movement is a micro-rotor automatic, making for an exciting pairing of complications. Notably, even during GP’s heyday as a manufacture, it depended on specialists for its repeater movements. The GP9530 is the brand’s first in-house minuter repeating calibre (though it does borrow from an earlier striking movement created with the help of a complications specialist). The strikework is exposed on the dial, while the reverse reveals the winding mechanism under circular bridges. Initial thoughts In the past couple of years GP has been slowly making a comeback, after a few slow years, as a serious and motivated manufacture. The comeback started with the release of the reworked constant-force escapement and accelerated with last year’s unveiling of the workhorse GP4800 and the GP9620 skeleton tourbillon. This is in some ways a return to form. Historically GP was a powerhouse in this respect, making complicated movements under its own name as well as supplying movements, both complex and simple, to other high-end brands. At that time, however, GP still did source repeater movements from the likes of Christophe Claret. In time, the evolution of the industry reduced the need for such outsourced movements, and the marquee’s lustre dulled. The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges and its ...

Introducing – Spectacular New Editions of the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Monochrome
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Having Feb 24, 2026

Introducing – Spectacular New Editions of the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious

Having mastered the art of ultra-thin mechanical movements, Piaget made its foray into jewellery watches in the 1960s. Unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1969, Piaget’s 21st Century Collection showcased avant-garde jewellery watches, including textured gold cuffs with hardstone dials, powered by the brand’s ultra-thin 2mm manual-winding calibre 9P. In 1973, Piaget introduced the predecessor […]

The Audible Joy of Alarm Watches Worn & Wound
Vulcain Feb 20, 2026

The Audible Joy of Alarm Watches

One of the most useful watch complications in horological history is also one of its most forgotten.  The ring of a mechanical alarm may seem like a lost artifact, like a rotary phone dial or a manual transmission, all once the necessities of 20th century civilization. And yet, functionality of a settable and mechanical-winding alarm into the tiny confines of a wristwatch is an impressive mechanical feat, one underrated among dive bezels, world timers, pulsations scales, and tachymeters.  The alarm watch was meant for the everyman, whether they’re travelers, titans of industry, or merely early risers. Just like there is appreciation for a watch’s ability to do more than just tell time, there is the aural sensation for a watch to produce something more for the senses than just sight. Eterna was the first to patent an alarm caliber as early as 1908, eventually introducing an alarm wristwatch in 1914 at the Swiss National Exhibition in Berne. It was an impressive achievement, but it wouldn’t last: there was the problem that the alarm could only sound for less than 10 seconds, barely enough to rouse a moderate sleeper, as well as the fact that when the alarm was set, accuracy suffered.  However, the Eterna did achieve something significant: it spurred Vulcain, in nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds, to begin developing its own alarm mechanism in 1942. The resulting Vulcain Cricket, debuting in 1947, fixed its predecessor’s shortcomings: namely, separate barrels for the alarm s...

Introducing – The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore now Feb 20, 2026

Introducing – The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel

Ever since its introduction in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa collection has left its mark on the accessible, sporty-chic, automatic watch market. In a nutshell, it is one of the most advisable models for anyone looking for a fairly-priced, stylished and well-built watch. Over the years, we’ve seen several evolutions, with new dial colours, a smaller […]

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech SJX Watches
Seiko Epson including Feb 18, 2026

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech

Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...

Baltic Closes Out the MR Collection with a Moissanite Bezel Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Baltic Closes Out Feb 12, 2026

Baltic Closes Out the MR Collection with a Moissanite Bezel Limited Edition

I have a very clear memory of the time period around the launch of the Baltic MR01 collection, the first in their ongoing series of micro-rotor powered dress watches. It felt like a turning point for the brand, who up until then was really known as a heritage inspired sports watch microbrand. The MR series was a real left turn, and there was excitement around it across the watch community. The use of a micro-rotor powered automatic movement in a watch well under $1,000 was completely novel, and it signaled that Baltic had ambitions well beyond iterating on classic sports watch DNA. The intervening years have proven that out, as the brand no longer occupies such a narrow niche. If you had told me in 2021 that only a few years later my favorite Baltic would be their take on a cocktail watch, complete with stone dials, I never would have believed you.  The new MR Moissanite closes a chapter for Baltic. We’re told this is the final MR to be released in the current format, and that a refresh is coming. If that’s the case, Baltic has chosen to close out this incarnation of the MR with its most ostentatious execution to this point. The two dial variants seen here each feature bezels set with baguette cut moissanite gem stones, linking these watches in style and philosophy to the 1970s inspired Prismics linked above.  Moissanite, for the uninitiated, is a lab grown diamond alternative first introduced in the late 1990s. It has many physical qualities that are very similar to...

Introducing – The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Stainless Steel and Rose Gold with Agave Blue Dial Monochrome
Feb 5, 2026

Introducing – The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Stainless Steel and Rose Gold with Agave Blue Dial

Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF collection introduced a new vision of contemporary haute horlogerie built around restraint, proportion and what CEO Guido Terreni calls “private luxury”, watches designed to be lived with rather than constantly replaced. Among the first models was the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, a slim automatic watch with a date display. The […]

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs Feb 4, 2026

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement

After using a relatively common Frederic Piguet movement for almost 30 years, Audemars Piguet now introduces the 6401, an in-house automatic chronograph caliber. It offers higher accuracy, greater reliability, and a more refined appearance. The brand’s 38mm Royal Oak is the first model to feature the new movement. You can choose between a stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement to read the full article.

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths Worn & Wound
Piaget Feb 3, 2026

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths

Few other watchmakers enjoyed as much success and cachet as Heuer, especially during the fervent 1960s and 1970s. Not only had it launched one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, but it pushed the envelope on modern design with midcentury-cool chronographs like the uniquely square Monaco. Heuer was riding high on the glamor of Grand Prix: the Heuer shield was as indelible to the backdrops of Monza and Le Mans as Ferrari, Porsche, and McLaren themselves as the official timekeeper of Formula One.  But, inevitably, the quartz revolution came for Heuer. Jack Heuer was the third-generation CEO of the company that bore his name, and he had been a savvy marketer, personally hawking chronographs to drivers like Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. By the 1980s, however, he found himself backed into a corner, and in 1982, he was forced to sell the company to Piaget and Lemania-a humiliating low point in his life, as he recounted in his autobiography.  Yet, before he departed, he gave Heuer one saving grace. In 1979, he commissioned Heuer’s first dive watch, the Professional Series. At a trade show Jack had overheard a brief conversation about the unreliability of existing dive watches, and he aimed to emulate Rolex’s success with the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. (Incidentally, Rolex owned half of Heuer’s stock market shares, and nearly took over the company around this time.)  Photo by Blake Rong Heuer had spent the decade building an electronic timing division, which b...

Introducing – A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet ´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars Feb 3, 2026

Introducing – A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139

A perpetual calendar is a complication very much dear to Audemars Piguet. Since the mid-20th century, the manufacture in Le Brassus has offered many variations on how this “celestial” mechanism could be presented, displayed and used. From the world’s first leap-year perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1955, to the ultra-thin automatic QPs of the late 1970s, […]

A Technical Perspective – Sellita Introduces The SW200-2 Power+ Family Of Calibres, An Updated Version Of The SW200 Monochrome
Feb 1, 2026

A Technical Perspective – Sellita Introduces The SW200-2 Power+ Family Of Calibres, An Updated Version Of The SW200

Sellita has introduced a new evolution of its most ubiquitous automatic movement: the SW200-2 Power+. This new calibre is designed to sit alongside the well-known and widespread SW200-1 during a transition phase, before progressively replacing it across collections. At first glance, nothing seems to have changed. The SW200-2 Power+ shares the same dimensions, architecture, and […]

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Collection Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Jan 21, 2026

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Collection

Few brands embrace colour and material innovation quite like Hublot. Since the original Big Bang in 2005, it has explored every imaginable fusion, from sapphire, ceramic, and carbon to precious metals, often paired with interesting chromatic tones. Think vivid Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, ice-cold sapphire or titanium with chilly white ceramic of the […]

First Look – Hublot Presents Three New Classic Fusion Models in Sage Green Monochrome
Hublot Presents Three New Classic Jan 19, 2026

First Look – Hublot Presents Three New Classic Fusion Models in Sage Green

For LVMH Watch Week 2026, Hublot adds Sage Green editions to its Classic Fusion line: a 33mm quartz, a 42mm automatic, and a 45mm chronograph, introducing a soft, pastel tone to bridge sportiness and sophistication. Just like earlier Essential Grey and Taupe releases, these new references pair contemporary colour with a certain understated attire. The […]

First Look – Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Guilloché Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Guilloché Louis Jan 19, 2026

First Look – Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Guilloché

Louis Vuitton is back with round three of its Tambour Convergene, a classic montre à guichet that displays the dragging hours and minutes through two arched windows. A delightfully compact watch powered by LV’s in-house automatic movement, the 37mm Tambour Convergence takes advantage of the wide rose gold dial plate to showcase its dexterity in […]

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Monochrome
Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Celebrating Jan 19, 2026

First Look – The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette

Celebrating its original vocation as a Roman goldsmith and creator of fabulous high jewellery pieces glowing with brightly coloured gemstones, Bulgari kicks off LVMH Watch Week with a dazzling Tubogas Manchette in yellow gold. Fitted with Bulgari’s recently unveiled Lady Solotempo BVS 100 automatic movement, the gorgeous cuff marries the brand’s iconic Tubogas design to […]

TAG Heuer Scales Up the Carrera “Glassbox” to 41 mm SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Scales Up Jan 19, 2026

TAG Heuer Scales Up the Carrera “Glassbox” to 41 mm

TAG Heuer is growing its signature line of chronographs literally and figuratively with the Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 41 mm. Stylistically similar to its 39 mm counterpart, the new Carrera features a larger “Glassbox” case but is otherwise almost identical, right down to the pump pushers and TH20 automatic movement, though enthusiasts will like the fact that the date display has been eliminated. Initial thoughts The “Glassbox” case is a good starting point, being distinctive but not as unconventional as the Monaco. The Carrera is retro-inspired but of an entirely modern construction, with its bowl-shaped dial, raised flange, and domed crystal. One of my favourite characteristics of the Carrera is the model’s pump-style pushers that give it a distinctive profile. Large and welcoming, the pushers provide the impression of a chronograph built to be used. And the 41 mm has the upside of doing away with the date. While the larger case is arguably not as well suited to the retro case design, it is a good fit for the TH20 that’s a relatively thick calibre. So while bigger, the 41 mm model is better proportioned in some ways. Commercially, the logic of the 41 mm is clear as well, since larger watches do well in many of the markets where TAG Heuer is historically strong, like the United States and Australia. Notably, the 41 mm includes a similarly scaled up version of the versatile seven-link stainless steel bracelet found on the smaller model. It echoes a “b...

Introducing: Two Hamilton Resident Evil Requiem Limited Editions Fratello
Hamilton Resident Evil Requiem Limited Jan 16, 2026

Introducing: Two Hamilton Resident Evil Requiem Limited Editions

Hamilton is more than a steady provider of Hollywood movies. The once-American, now-Swiss brand is also active in the video game industry. It started with the Khaki Field Titanium Automatic in Far Cry 6, and later, the American Classic Boulton appeared in Death Stranding 2: On the Beach. Then, last year, the 38mm Hamilton Khaki […] Visit Introducing: Two Hamilton Resident Evil Requiem Limited Editions to read the full article.

Raketa’s Latest Wristwatch is Key-Wound and Wood SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 30, 2025

Raketa’s Latest Wristwatch is Key-Wound and Wood

Inspired by 1930s Russian fairytale, Raketa’s latest is the Golden Key, an unusual watch that further expands the brand’s diverse repertoire. The cushioned-shaped watch has a case of walnut wood – this evokes historical wooden clocks and watches from Eastern Europe – and includes a winding key, though it can be wound conventionally via the crown as well. Though modelled on a similar 1970s Raketa model, the modern-day creation is a surprisingly apt adaption of its namesake, The Golden Key, or The Adventures of Buratino, a Russian version of Pinocchio that also includes a wooden puppet that comes to life, but also includes a golden key as central to the tale. Like all Raketa watches, this is affordable and powered by an in-house movement, albeit a basic calibre descended from a Soviet era construction. Initial thoughts The Golden Key has a recognisable 1970s look thanks to its shape and dial, but still manages to stand out because of the wood case. The case and dial are detailed nicely enough so the watch avoids looking like a novelty souvenir. The winding does feel like a bit of a gimmick, but it has no bearing on the function of the watch, which can be wound via the crown anyway. Raketa stuck to the colours of the 1970s original with the Golden Key, making it pleasing but also plain. A more adventurous combination of wood and colour would have made it more interesting; I’m sure that’s on the cards if this one sells well. The only weakness of the watch is arguab...