Time+Tide
The Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar marks a new chapter for the British brand
Fears brings high-complication watchmaking back to Britain with the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar, a stunning QP with compact proportions
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Time+Tide
Hodinkee
Introducing: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain (Live Pics)
What We Know Today, Glaswegian brand AnOrdain, known for its handcrafted grand feu enamel dials, introduces the second entry in its porcelain dial series with the Model 1 Porcelain. Counterintuitively, it follows last year's Model 2 Porcelain, which marked the brand's first watch with a porcelain dial. While the dials are still produced by hand in AnOrdain's Glasgow workshop, using a traditional porcelain-making process (no zirconium ceramic sheets or injection-molded clay slurry), the firing of the clay and vitreous glaze at high heat for these porcelain dials can be done at a much larger scale. AnOrdain provides a comparison here of production rates—50 vitreous enamel dials per month across seven enamellers, while one ceramic specialist can produce 30-40 porcelain dials. And though it may be easy to assume porcelain dials are more forgiving and capable of higher yields, the brand notes that the final dials come from an approximate total of 300 produced, meaning there's still a mighty high rejection rate associated with porcelain dialmaking. The Model 1 Porcelain starts with, well, the brand's Model 1 case design in stainless steel. It is a reasonably compact watch, with a diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, and a thickness of 11mm. The Model 1 silhouette features a short lug design with broad outer polished faceting, making the lugs feel even slimmer on the wrist. Polishing is also found on the smooth, rounded bezel, while the midcase and screwed-in cas...
Monochrome
First Look - The Tiffany Timer, now in a Titanium and Platinum Combination
While Tiffany is mostly known for its emblematic blue colour and its high-end jewellery, the NYC-based brand has been involved in watchmaking for much longer than most would expect. For instance, Tiffany introduced its first chronograph, back then a pocket watch, of course, back in 1866. Earlier this year, to celebrate the 160th anniversary of […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo
What We Know Maison Alcée jumped headlong into the watch community consciousness in 2023, winning the GPHG 'Audacity Prize' in recognition of the brand's unique do-it-yourself, high horology, clock-building kits. Championed by Ben, who served on the GPHG jury that year, the French husband-and-wife team of Alcée and Benoit Montfort went on to craft a highly successful LE collaboration with Hodinkee (with lume!) that quickly sold out. Now Alcée and Benoit are back with another collaboration that takes their clock-making kit to the next level. Collaborating with MB&F;, who have long supported Maison Alcée by showcasing and selling their work at their Mad Gallery locations, the Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo leans hard into the well-established alien aesthetic the Geneva-based creative force is known for. Adding to the intrigue is that this clock was designed by MB&F;'s Creative Designer, Maximilian Maertens. He's the young German who is slowly and purposefully starting to take the lead on some of MB&F;'s pieces, as Max Büsser begins to step back and give up a bit of creative control over the collective brand project he founded more than two decades ago. So what makes this Maison Alcée kit interesting and different? It's certainly expressive of the MB&F; design language, with the arched base legs or feet giving it an extraterrestrial personality. Maertens says he's a fan of and inspired by the late Swiss artist H.R. Giger (check out the wild Giger Museum in Gruyères if y...
Monochrome
Introducing - Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuo, A Tantalum Integrated Watch with Two Gold Dial Variants
The Atelier Wen Inflection collection (2025) marked an important step up for the brand, with its complex, fully curved case, an integrated bracelet made almost entirely from tantalum, high-end dials, and a customised movement supplied by Girard-Perregaux. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Atelier Wen has partnered with New York-based creative studio Massena LAB on a […]
SJX Watches
Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova
Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...
Worn & Wound
Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition
You know, I actually wasn’t going to write about this watch. An $18,000 vintage inspired dive watch from a brand that doesn’t hold a ton of personal relevance to me was just not super high on my list of priorities as Geneva Watch Days prep is now in full swing (this time next week, I will be surviving on CHF 10 Coke Zeros). But, over the weekend the collective watch internet kind of lost its mind over the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, so I shifted my to-do list around a bit and, well, here we are. Of course, there have been a lot of memes and jokes about this watch sharing a certain similarity to the Seiko 62MAS and the many, many reinterpretations and reissues of that watch over the years. I’m frankly less interested in those aesthetic similarities than I am in the very conceit of this watch, what it illuminates about Blancpain, and the way it fits into the neverending conversation around price sensitivity that we’ve been having for months as we see MSRPs shoot higher and higher. But what I’ll say about the appearance of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is simply that, at this point, 70 years on from the advent of this type of watch, I don’t think any brand really owns the aesthetic identity of something so generic. Lots and lots of watches from all kinds of brands look like this, just like lots and lots of watches look like a Speedmaster, or a Calatrava. The design tropes of these wat...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Peacock Black Hole III Curved Guilloche Central Tourbillon; Bold, Complex yet Attainable
The tourbillon, one of the most fascinating technical devices created, remains today a technical challenge that often comes at a cost. And when it comes to centrally positioned tourbillons, the landscape becomes even narrower. Only a handful of watches, mostly from independent watchmakers or high-end brands, feature this specific regulator: Omega (the first on the […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Blancpain surprised us this week with a vintage reissue of its 1968 Bathyscaphe. The 37.4mm case of the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary features a sunburst dial and faux patina, while there’s a ceramic bezel insert and a modern automatic movement inside. Of course, Blancpain […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities
I take IWC’s latest Le Petit Prince chronographs for a hands-on review to discover how two materials completely transform the same design. What We Love Eye-catching white ceramic case and deep-blue dial contrast Ceramic model is lightweight and comfortable to wear, despite its substantial dimensions Two distinct personalities across ceramic and steel What We Don’t Full white ceramic edition lacks everyday versatility Both models are still relatively thick on the wrist 46 hour power reserve is modest by modern watchmaking standards. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.7/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 To mark 20 years of its collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC expands its Le Petit Prince lineup with new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph editions in stainless steel and white ceramic. This was one of IWC’s main themes for Watches & Wonders 2026, with a wide range of models carrying the signature Le Petit Prince design. There are few collections as closely connected to IWC’s modern identity as the Pilot’s Watch, which carries a design inspired by the functional appearance of cockpit instrumentation. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph then combines this aviation-inspired design with one of IWC’s best-known mechanical strengths in watchmaking: chronographs. IWC Schaffhausen’s connection to the story of Le Petit Prince began in 2006, when the Swiss watchmaker started collaborating with the descendants of Fren...
Monochrome
Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand
Customisation or unique pieces are nothing new in the Swiss watch industry, but are usually reserved for high horology or smaller ateliers, necessitating a level of flexibility that more established and mainstream brands can hardly achieve. That said, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with a unique piece recently that, besides its intrinsic singularity […]
Fratello
Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time
If you don’t like what you see, ask the maker to make something just for you. That’s sort of the principle behind bespoke watches. And all the historical high-end watchmakers have plenty of experience with that because custom-made timepieces are exactly how the watchmaking industry started centuries ago. Creating one-of-a-kind timepieces for demanding customers is […] Visit Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Faithfully Revisits 1968 Bathyscaphe
Blancpain is marking the 70th anniversary of its lesser-known dive watch with the 1960s-inspired Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe. With a faithful 37.4 mm steel case and high-end movement, the Bathyscaphe will likely be welcomed by collectors who have been waiting for a more compact Fifty Fathoms. Initial thoughts Blancpain has an unusually rich history of producing dive watches — the Fifty Fathoms dates to 1953 and introduced the now-ubiquitous rotating dive bezel at roughly the same time as the Rolex Submariner. Blancpain’s early divers were commercial products aimed at military customers — then the only sizable market for such watches. That changed in 1956, when growing consumer interest in diving led to the release of the Bathyscaphe. This historic name was reborn in 2013, but the contemporary interpretation of the line was a significant aesthetic departure from the look of the original 1950s and 1960s models. Somewhat confusingly, Blancpain is marking the 70th anniversary of the Bathyscaphe with an homage to a 1968 model. Timeline aside, the anniversary edition features a period-correct 37.4 mm case and beige Super-LumiNova to capture the aged look of surviving originals. The arrow-tipped running seconds hand is another charming detail that reproduces the original look to good effect. During the 1950s and 1960s, Blancpain waffled between serif and sans-serif wordmarks, and the brand has opted for the latter for the anniversary edition. To my eye it strikes just the rig...
Monochrome
Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire
Henri Grandjean (1803-1879) was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, renowned for his precision marine chronometers and for his pioneering role in Swiss chronometry. The name was recently revived by entrepreneur and collector Sohail Aziz and positioned as an independent brand specialising in exquisite high-end contemporary haute horlogerie. Making an impressive debut, Henri Grandjean & […]
Fratello
Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted
Meet a high-end watch brand built on a deep love for everything horological and ample experience to bring the founders’ original vision to life. Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake, and watch industry veteran Guillaume Tetu, who worked for TAG Heuer, Hautlence, and Ralph Lauren, started Legare to unearth long-lost horological treasures and […] Visit Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted to read the full article.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Big Brands to Beat
Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe. The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over
Ask me about my current favorite Citizen models, and I’ll quickly point to the brand’s Series 8 watches. It’s Citizens’ collection of modern mechanical watches that falls somewhere between the high-end “The Citizen” line and the brand’s affordable offerings. The Series 8 collection was unveiled in 2021, and two years later, the brand added the […] Visit The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
GRØNE Introduces the Horologium, a New Limited Edition in “Quirky” and “Classic” Variants
The GRØNE brand was introduced in the fall of 2024 at the absolute height of what I think can fairly be called the diffusion line craze. Between MB&F; with their M.A.D. Editions, Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo, and a host of others, high end watchmakers making accessible products in a well understood design language has been one of the more interesting developments across the independent watchmaking landscape over the past few years. The pace of these projects coming to market has slowed down somewhat, but that’s only helped us understand which ones are taken seriously as brands unto themselves by their founders and operators. GRØNE, I think, falls into the category of a brand that the founders, Bart and Tim Grönefeld, who also of course run their eponymously named brand, take seriously, or at least as a labor of love for their friends and family who are priced out of their largely handmade luxury watches. The latest from GRØNE is a new three-hander in two variants, one meant to be serious and the other a little more playful. Both, I think, do a nice job of capturing the aesthetic cues of the Grönefeld brand in a way that previous efforts did not, while also acting as a showcase for the personalities of Bart and Tim. The new Horologium is available in two variants: “Quirky” and “Classic”. The Quirky variant has a bright orange dial that points to the brand’s Dutch heritage with complementary baby blue accents. The Classic is a more refined salmon dial ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Berneron Quantième Annuel
After introducing the asymmetrical Mirage and then scaling it down for the Mirage 34, Berneron has changed direction for its third release. The Quantième Annuel is rigidly symmetrical — and the brand’s first complicated watch — but continues to embody the high-effort philosophy demonstrated by the brand’s debut models. That ambition extends beyond its instantaneous annual calendar mechanism to an unusual construction with replaceable steel bumpers designed to absorb everyday wear. Initial thoughts Deadpool, the titular super hero portrayed on screen by Ryan Reynolds — himself a budding watch collector — is known for his signature catchphrase, “maximum effort.” That might as well be the unofficial slogan for Berneron, a brand that has surprised collectors with the lengths it’s willing to go to get small details just right. The Berneron QA is available with silver or black dials. This was clear from the outset. When the brand made its debut with the Mirage in late 2023, collectors fawned over its full gold construction — which extends even to the spring bars — and its ovoid cal. 233 movement that takes full advantage of its asymmetrical case, which is said to follow the Fibonacci sequence. These attributes were repeated at smaller scale — small enough to require an entirely different movement — with the Mirage 34. The QA is Berneron’s third watch, and by far its most complicated. Once again, the “maximum effort” mentality is on display in all...
Fratello
Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy
After launching timepieces inspired by the fantastic Arthurian mythology, Roger Dubuis thinks it’s time for a lesson on Japanese history. The new Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy takes inspiration from the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a turning point in Japanese history. The Geneva-based brand uses its high-watchmaking know-how and métiers d’art to create 28 timepieces […] Visit Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy to read the full article.
WatchRider
Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT
Timex has given the Deepwater Meridian 200 a new job. The 42mm diver-style watch is now an automatic GMT, with a fourth hand and a bidirectional 24-hour ceramic bezel instead of a conventional elapsed-time scale. The colour references are black TW2Y63900, blue TW2Y64000 and green TW2Y64100. Black is the most restrained choice, blue has a cooler nautical character, and green brings the most personality without turning the watch into a novelty. Each version pairs its dial with a coordinating bezel, so the colour feels deliberate rather than decorative. Announced on 31 July 2026, this is genuinely new rather than a model that has quietly lived on retailers’ shelves for months. The personality is familiar, but the specification changes are enough to make this more than a new colourway. Black TW2Y63900. Image: Timex. Blue TW2Y64000. Image: Timex. Green TW2Y64100. Image: Timex. A diver for someone who avoids deep water I am afraid of deep water but rather fond of diver-style watches, which is a little like loving hiking while avoiding cliffs. I like their neat engineering, their tough appearance, and the fact that I can admire a 200-metre rating without personally testing it anywhere below the shallow end. Timex specifies 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, screw-on case back and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, a magnified date, and a red GMT hand. The steel case is 42mm across, 14.5mm thick and 48...
Monochrome
First Look - The Green, Europe-Only Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver HBC010
Seiko’s Prospex collection is wide… Even by narrowing it down to dive watches only, there’s plenty to choose from, starting with the accessible Samurai and Turtle, followed by the robust 1968 Heritage Diver, up to the high-spec Marinemasters. There’s another one, however, that both carries great historical importance and visual appeal, the Prospex 1965 Heritage […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The New Timex Deepwater Meridian Is an Affordable Automatic GMT With Rolex Style
The new Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT brings sapphire, a ceramic bezel, and 200m of water resistance to a $549 Timex. A closer look.
SJX Watches
The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial
Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...
WatchRider
The Rolex Presidential: Everything you need to know and the Marilyn Monroe drama
Few wristwatches in the world carry the immediate visual impact and prestige of the “Rolex Presidential.” If you’ve noticed a sudden surge in search traffic around this iconic timepiece, you aren’t alone. Driven by record-high precious metal values, celebrity endorsements, and a resurgence in classic luxury aesthetics, the world’s most famous status symbol is having a major moment online. First Things First: “Rolex Presidential” Isn’t Its Real Name Let’s start with a little horological trivia to impress your friends: Rolex has never officially sold a watch called the “Presidential.” The watch’s actual name is the Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956. It earned its famous nickname because: It came on a specific, three-piece semi-circular link bracelet that Rolex officially named the “President” bracelet. It quickly became the go-to accessory for the most powerful world leaders on the planet. Also, Rolex has a strict “no peasants allowed” rule for the Day-Date: it is made exclusively in 18k gold (yellow, white, or Everose) or 950 platinum. You cannot buy a stainless-steel Day-Date from Rolex. If someone tries to sell you a steel one in an alley, run. Why Is the Search Volume Skyrocketing? Exclusive Precious Metals:With gold market values reaching historic peaks, owning solid gold horology represents both a luxury flex and a tangible asset. Pop Culture Dominance: From executive boardrooms to sports stars and viral social media unboxings, ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game
This year Chanel celebrated games of all sorts, from chess to cards and even video games with the J12 Coco Game — a quartet of Chanel’s best selling ceramic dive-ish watch featuring pixel art renditions of the Mademoiselle herself. This haute joaillerie variant is the maximalist-chic final boss of the sub-collection, set with 5.88 carats of diamonds, and equipped with the same bulletproof movement and hardy ceramic construction that makes the J12 so practical — though without the useful bezel or date. Initial thoughts Every year I look forward to Chanel’s Watches & Wonders launches — more-so than I do many “real” watchmakers — and every year the brand graces us with a one-two punch of remarkable objects and whimsical watches, often related by a common theme. This year’s theme was games, and Chanel outdid itself with a multi-million-dollar, unique (and already sold) chess set as the halo piece. Downrange there are allusions to playing cards, dominos and Scrabble, and a quartet of video game-inspired J12s. The other three models in the lineup, from left to right: ref. H11063, H11091, and H11062. Image – Chanel Pixel art developed as a natural consequence of past technological limitations, but it remains popular, particularly among independent game developers. And I suspect these watches will appeal just as much to a generation — my generation — that grew up with indie games like Minecraft, Terraria, and Undertale, rather than retro pixel art games lik...
WatchRider
The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours
When a watch brand celebrates a milestone with a high-profile ambassador, we usually know exactly what to expect: a limited-edition colorway, a signed caseback, and a predictable marketing campaign. But to celebrate 10 years with Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani, Seiko threw out the playbook entirely. They didn’t just design a new dial. They spent three years engineering a completely bespoke, 1-of-1 mechanical marvel called the Seiko Star Time. The Inspiration: Shohei Ohtani’s Existential Question The Star Time wasn’t built for a catalog; it was built for Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani. To mark Ohtani’s 10th anniversary as a Seiko brand ambassador, the company set out to build a true piece unique. The concept was sparked by a philosophical question Ohtani himself asked: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?” Instead of a traditional chronograph that measures elapsed seconds, Seiko spent three years developing a watch that tracks the steady, relentless accumulation of time. How Do You Count to a Million? It uses a newly architected in house movement to drive a highly unusual display of five concentric rotating discs. As the discs rotate, the numbers pass beneath a red line on the inner surface of the heavily domed sapphire crystal. One million hours equates to just over 114 years of continuous tracking. The outer discs move so slowly that their motion is entirely imperceptible to the naked eye. Seiko design...
Monochrome
Hands-on - All the new Dials for the Rolex Datejust in 2026, and There’s Much More than the Green Ombré
For 2026, Rolex had a pretty big year at Watches and Wonders Geneva. There was, of course, the much-debated high-end Rolesium and enamel Daytona, the revamped Yacht-Master II, or a new gold alloy named Jubilee gold for the Day-Date. Then, the Crown publicly showed the special edition steel and gold Oyster Perpetual 100th Anniversary. You thought […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Brings Samurai to the Round Table
Twelve warriors gather around the table once again, but this time, Camelot gives way to Edo Castle. Roger Dubuis has a knack for creating watches that are equal parts human imagination and great craftsmanship, the kind you can spend hours staring at, whether they call upon dragons, knights, or are high complications that look like […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Swatch x Omega Launch Mission To The Moon 1969 MoonSwatch
The latest Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 goes high end with 11g of gold and an application process.